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Old 03-26-2013, 08:05 PM   #21
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You managed to say so much with so few words.

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Old 03-26-2013, 08:12 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
I'm confused? If I have vehicle (A) which has air bags and when I attach my trailer it remains level and I'm within the spec's, therefore I do not need nor want a w/d hitch? Vehicle (b), the same as vehicle (a) but does not have air bags, it squats 2-3 " when I hook up my trailer and I'm still within the spec's, I do want a w/d hitch to raise my rear and lower my front to make the tow vehicle level.
Am I shifting weight to the front with vehicle (a) as I would be with vehicle (b) and the w/d set up? If not, why not?
Jim,
The purpose of a weight distributing hitch is to restore weight back to the steer axle, and to also distribute a percentage of the tongue weight to the trailer axle(s). The WD hitch purpose is NOT to make the tow vehicle level. The tow vehicle will become somewhat "more level" with WD as a side benefit, but as stated, the primary purpose is to ensure the steer axle has the correct amount of weight on it for safe handling, especially on wet surfaces, but really, anytime there might be a need for an evasive maneuver. By restoring the correct weight range back to the steer axle, you also help the vehicle maintain the correct geometry for the front suspension.
Some of the truck manufacturers are now specifying the you do not have to restore "all" of the weight back to the steer axle. Several are saying 50%. Nissan specifies the front be restored to "it's original ride height or as much as 1/2 inch high". I found on my Frontier by doing the initial setup with a tape measure, followed by a trip to the scales, that, as you would expect, returning it to original ride height resulted in exactly the same weight on the steer axle as it was with no trailer. I further found from experimenting that I like the feel of the truck best with approx 75% of the weight restored to the steer axle.

george

EDIT. Also, I meant to mention that you should look at the numbers on your hitch receiver. Most receivers have a lower weight rating for "WC" ( weight carrying, just on the ball ) and a higher limit for "WD" (weight distributing ).
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Old 03-26-2013, 08:16 PM   #23
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The major point I should have made in my previous post...

Regardless of what happens to height, the point of a WD system is to move load from the tug's rear axle to the other axles, including the tug's front; if you don't need to move that load (it is not too much at the rear, or too little at the front), then you don't need WD.
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Old 03-26-2013, 08:16 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
So, therefore what would a weight distribution hitch accomplish without any sag?
It would accomplish re-distributing weight forward to the steer axle, and rearward to the trailer axle.
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Old 03-26-2013, 08:19 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo View Post
You managed to say so much with so few words.
Yes, but Jim didn't ask what WD would do for a sagging suspension, he asked specifically for what it would do for a non-sagging suspension. It's still load transfer, but it isn't "gets rid of the sag".

Edit: took out inappropriate comment due to my misunderstanding.
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Old 03-26-2013, 08:20 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by gmw photos View Post
It would accomplish re-distributing weight forward to the steer axle, and rearward to the trailer axle.
Hmm... maybe I should have highlighted this key part when I said it five posts earlier...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
A weight distribution system shifts load from the tug's rear axle to the tug's front axle and to the trailer axle.
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Old 03-26-2013, 08:24 PM   #27
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I'm now lost. I wasn't taking a shot at you Brian. It's just that I agreed with Francesca for once. That "The air bags just give support for the extra weight at the point of origin".
They don't transfer any weight to other axles ( supports ).
Do we agree, or am I still in the dark?
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Old 03-26-2013, 08:25 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by deryk View Post
Now if the nose of the vehicle even with airbags is still pointing to the stars a wdh would shift some weight to the front axle to even it out.
Sure, I agree. But take 120 pounds of the front of a Freestar and it rises what, maybe one inch? One inch over 120 inches of wheelbase is half of one degree of tilt. Is this a problem? I don't find it to be a problem for my van. Your Mileage May Vary
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Old 03-26-2013, 08:27 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
Hmm... maybe I should have highlighted this key part when I said it five posts earlier...
Brian,
WD hitches seem to be one of the more mis-understood devices in trailering !
For those who would like to read some on them, there is a good 'sticky' over on RV net written by Ron Gratz that explains it all very well. Honestly, once a person has used one, and have gone thru the process of setting it up, they really are an elegant, and simple device that is easy to understand. Towing a given trailer without WD, and then followed by driving the same rig with one really gives the driver a very clear understanding of the how and why of it all.
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Old 03-26-2013, 08:28 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo View Post
I'm now lost. I wasn't taking a shot at you Brian. It's just that I agreed with Francesca for once. That "The air bags just give support for the extra weight at the point of origin".
They don't transfer any weight to other axles ( supports ).
Do we agree, or am I still in the dark?
We do agree on that part!
Sorry, I was getting a bit touchy about post length...
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Old 03-26-2013, 08:30 PM   #31
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Information is good. Lack of information is not so good, but misinformation is much worse. Check facts, and apply common sense liberally.
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Old 03-26-2013, 08:32 PM   #32
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The other advantage of using a WDH is, by it's nature added stability by firming up the connection. Some like the Reese Dual Cam have built in anti sway cams.
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Old 03-26-2013, 08:33 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David in Fernie View Post
I'm looking for advice on what size of weight distribution hitch I should use. I have a 1979 17' Bigfoot travel trailer (aprox 2500 lbs loaded ) with a tongue weight of around 300 lbs, my tow vehicle is a 2005 Ford Freestar Limited 4.2L with around 300 lbs in the back.
Reese Light-Duty Weight Distribution System
You need to match the WDH capacity to your trailer's tongue weight, or come as close to it as you can. A Light Duty WDH system is for tongue weights of 400 pounds and below.

Normal Duty WDH equipment starts at 600 pound tongue weight/6000 pound total trailer weight, and go up to 1000 pound tongue weight/10,000 pound total trailer weight. That is way too much for your combination, and you risk putting too much leverage on the Ford's undercarriage which could damage it.
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Old 03-26-2013, 08:35 PM   #34
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To the original poster, determining the "size" of the WD hitch is mostly down to choosing the correct load rated bars for the tongue weight you are dealing with. The only true way to know your tongue weight, is to use scales. A pretty good bet is, "it's heavier than you think it is" !! The scales tell all.

You want the "correct" weight bars. You don't want them too stiff, as they can make for too stiff of a ride, but you don't want them too light, because they then would not be able to correctly restore weight.

If I were a betting man, I would bet that with what you are talking about, if you were to use a BlueOx, then 550 pound bars would probably be correct....but again, you really need to know what the loaded tongue weight of your trailer is, as it sits ready to roll out your driveway to go camping.
Regarding other brands of hitches, you would have to do the research on them to see what weight rated bars are available.
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Old 03-26-2013, 08:38 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by gmw photos View Post
WD hitches seem to be one of the more mis-understood devices in trailering !
I agree!

Quote:
Originally Posted by gmw photos View Post
For those who would like to read some on them, there is a good 'sticky' over on RV net written by Ron Gratz that explains it all very well.
Yes, Ron's explanation is priceless, but as we have found in previous discussions, this is an enormous can of worms. That RV.net discussion - like earlier discussions here - contains some wildly incorrect statements by people who have repeated them even after others - such as Ron - have patiently and clearly explained the facts. That thread - assuming we're talking about the same one - is very long and can be very confusing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gmw photos View Post
Honestly, once a person has used one, and have gone thru the process of setting it up, they really are an elegant, and simple device that is easy to understand.
Ideally, yes, but I have read posts by people who do use WD and apparently have no clue how they work... some even stridently declare (including in this forum) that they do something that they don't. Not everyone's strengths and ability to understand lie in the same areas.
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Old 03-26-2013, 08:39 PM   #36
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The Freestar has a proven track record as a TV. When set up to tow good sized trailers they need the receiver reinforced.
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Old 03-26-2013, 08:39 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo View Post
Information is good. Lack of information is not so good, but misinformation is much worse. Check facts, and apply common sense liberally.
Touché !
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Old 03-26-2013, 08:45 PM   #38
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Shh.
I'm busy watching Doomsday Preppers.
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Old 03-27-2013, 02:16 AM   #39
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Tom, the link was very useful Thank you very much Tom and all the other posters, thank you all very much for taking the time to help me with this question, much thanks
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Old 03-27-2013, 07:24 AM   #40
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You could replace the rear springs with I-beams from a high-rise office building and it wouldn't sag, but the ride would be really lousy.
Is there a particular brand of I-beam from a high-rise office building that you can recommend?

Do the high-rise office buildings not need their I-beams any more, or is this the modern equivalent of stealing lead from church roofs?
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