SELLING: 1985 Scamp
'16 AC under bed, bathroom
Many updates, great fundamentals, a little rough around the edges.
Included with the camper is an awning
and poles (the kind not permanently attached to camper). I can't comment on the condition since we've always used an ez-up instead. Also included is external gray water tank, sewage hose, tabletop, poles to convert front bed to bunks, spare tire, deep cycle battery
, fiberglass (previously cut out) and decorative awning lights
90% new electrical
system and components. Waterproof / bug proof entry from outside battery
to inside compartment. 7 pole wire adapter connects to disconnect box for easy service / replacement of adapter. There is also a fuse block for the 7 pole adapters to keep faults between tow vehicle and trailer isolated. From there DC power goes to the battery
(capacitor), and then back into the trailer. This was wired in such a way the capacitor is in the middle of the tow vehicle and trailer to help suppress transients. Once back in the trailer power goes to a marine grade power distribution fuse block. I tried to put one function per fuse to keep faults isolated / troubleshooting easy. Most of the wiring uses twisted pair and shrink wrap and I soldered most locations - tried to use very few wing nuts. There is also an AC / DC converter with a switch so that it may or may not automatically start charging the battery when AC power is connected. For AC power, there is a new 30A stainless steel marine grade bulkhead. From there the power goes to a new breaker box. One breaker goes to the AC components in the trailer. The other breaker is used for the AC unit. All of this is probably way overkill for an RV...but nice to have.
3 of the interior lights
were replaced with new dual LED fixtures. The exterior porch light
was replaced with LED and new fixture. A few incandescent fixtures remain, but could be removed - the LED's are more than enough light
for any task. The clearance lights
, brake lights were also replaced with LED to avoid maintenance.
75% new plumbing. The plumbing was replaced with PEX and a new water tank was installed.
I had the Scamp
dealer (Backus, MN) replace the axle
with factory and purchased new tires
/ spare there as well. I've made a few trips from IL to WI since then with the trailer, but mostly local trips - probably less than 2k miles on the axle
The subfloor under half the trailer was replaced with marine grade plywood because of rot and reglassed to the walls and anchored to the frame.
I had a local shop weld (stainless) on BAL stabilizer jacks in the back. These fold nearly flush with the bottom of the camper and are mostly concealed. They crank down with a hand crank or power drill. This was one of my favorite additions and has worked well for us and eased setup / take down.
The carpet was replaced with vinyl planks due to the durability and waterproof factor. It's been a very durable / easy to clean covering for those rainy days.
I wasn't happy with the cooling power of the AC the PO installed, so I added another and stopped using the original. It could be removed but I haven't done this yet. The wife, corgi, and I prefer 62 degrees inside on humid 100F midwest summer days. This was literally achieved by putting a window AC under the bed, and creating a door in the back for the AC to slide out to get really good air flow. There is a flange around the AC when it slides out so bugs, rain, etc.. don't get into the camper and it has worked well for us, but it is an extra step in the setup. This also means we typically only use the bed as a bed, but if the AC were slid out I suppose you could still use the table, but foot room may be a little cramped.
Were I to keep the trailer longer, I would probably redo the seals on the small bathroom window and one of the side windows
. I believe both of them have a small leak during heavy rains.
I would also take out the original AC (could sell it) and convert the space back to storage. There is a grill to the outside in this compartment which I would probably replace with fiberglass (I have the fiberglass panel from the PO to make the patch easy).
The 3 way refrigerator
didn't work real well so it was removed, and the space was used for storage. The propane
lines and heater were also removed. I never went back to finish the holes in the fiberglass nicely. I do still have the fridge
and heater if there is interest in using again. The heater screws back in, but would require a propane
source to be routed. An ice box can be purchased from scamp
to fill the empty fridge
space for around $100. The vents to outside for the fridge
were fiberglassed/ gelcoat over to keep / moisture out. While the patch is functional and sufficient, it was a quick job and doesn't look real great from the outside.
Asking $3,800, located in Peoria, IL - hopefully the details above have been helpful - please don't hesitate to ask questions or PM.
I will add more pictures tomorrow when the sun comes out.
List of the updates...
FUR-F30INSSS - Marine Grade AC power inlet
FRN-F30P25SY - New AC power cable (there is another 25' which I bought local)
BLU-5026 - marine grade fuse block
HELLA H84960091 6-Way Lateral Single Fuse Box - fuse block for 7 pole trailer harness
Valterra R8018 8" x 16" x 18" ABS Water Tank
Item# 1141 BA15s - 21 LEDs - Interior LED light
Item #: 921-2 - Dual LED interior fixtures
Item #: 23015 / S-68x - AMBER - LED clearance markers
Item #: 23015 / S-68x - RED - LED clearance markers
Item# 3478503 - LED porch light
Item# 0000020188 - Circle LED brake lights
5724 - BAL stabilizers fold flush
7 pole molded wire harness
automotive primary wire
7 pole wire harness quick disconnect box
new pex plumbing / fittings
new AC outlets / switches
new AC breaker box / breakers
/ wheels / spare (2011)
Allure vinyl planks (snap together version - no adhesive to melt in summer)