1977 Trillium

[David Tilston]

If your trailer has brakes, and there may be hills involved in your moves, then this may come in handy.
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...rol-50954.html

[francene]

That's pretty neat electronics there!
My trailer has no brakes though.

Fran

[billkateposs]

We have our Trillium in for several repairs, including replacement of the old nonworking Dometic refrigerator with a recommended #2193 model. But our repairman says the new fridge is deeper than the old one and will stick out, blocking the way for the gaucho bed drawer below. The previous fridge was 17 5/8" deep; the current one is 21 1/2" deep. Any suggestions? We're hoping to take her out for a trip to see our kids in Oregon this weekend. She's been in repair since Sept. 28.

[Otters]

I'm not sure how much it would block the drawer, but is it possible to trim the drawer a little and still clear the fridge. I wanted to share this link where a deeper fridge was installed. He trimed it out nicely and it doesn't look like it protrudes much. Another trillium owner added space in the rear of the compartment. If you do a search, you'll find others.
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...ete-52261.html

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...0-a-48267.html

[David Tilston]

First off, what is wrong with it. Have you tried to run it on AC? The gas lines get pluged up with spider webs, but if it will run on AC, or DC, it is repairable.

Instead of a new one, another option is locating another RM211. They were very common. I have two working spares. In total I have acquired three of these. The first one I bought, for $80, off a guy that makes old pop up tent trailers into flat deck trailers for quads, and snowmobiles. The other two came to me for free.

[billkateposs]

Hello David, Well we've already shelled out $900 for the new fridge and it has been installed. Wish I had your hindsight. We'll check in more as we repair the furnace. Meanwhile our repairman said the fridge just wasn't working at all. If it were only a matter of spiderwebs, I think he would have told us. We're taking her out this weekend. Have hardly seen her since we bought her. Thanks again, for your common sensicalness.
Kate

[billkateposs]

Hello David,
We have leaks on the driver's side dinette. Coming in through the window? Have the bellyband repaired, the fridge replaced, the electric rewired. Still has a mildewy chemical smell inside. Any suggestions?

[David Tilston]

Ozone generator.

I was thinking of getting this one:
NEW COMMERCIAL OZONE GENERATOR PRO AIR PURIFIER MOLD ODOR on eBay!

[billkateposs]

Thanks, Dave. Think this will do the trick?

[David Tilston]

It says it is good for mold. I have never tried it.

[billkateposs]

Hello Folks,
Well, just had the Trillium cushions replaced. The old ones had black mold in them and gave off a funky smell. The new ones are dandy with burgundy red wool boucle fabric. We'll send photos.

But the real question is how to we replace the stripped screw holding the outside upper hinge on the door? Do we need Canadian tools? Also when opening the door, the door hinge bangs against the trailer body hinge. Please tell us how you can secure the door open without banging the hinges and weakening the screws. Thanks.

[Francesca Knowles]

Originally Posted by billkateposs

Do we need Canadian tools?

Yes. Who doesn't? Buy one of these ASAP:

As far as your hinges are concerned, though, any below-the-border tools you already have on hand will do.

[David Tilston]

Well, the answer to your question is, remove the screws and the door at the same time. Then you can wiggle the top screw out.

Your door is likely not sitting straight, and the screws you are referring to are the ones in the trailer side of the hinge. I took the door off, but kept the hinges on the door. Then I filled in the holes that the screws were in with fibreglass and resin. Just before the resin hardened, I used a boxing knife to scrape the excess resin off the trailer, and trim the fibreglass that was hanging out of the hole, so it was flush with the side of the trailer. Then, I used boxing tape to put the door in the hole where it looked right, so the gap all the way around the door was the same. It took me three tries to get it right.

I had purchased new stainless steel screws that were the same length as the originals. I drilled holes that allowed the screws to bite a bit, but not too much. I gently worked the screws slowly in and out of the holes, a few turns in, then back out till I had them seated. Then I filled the newly drilled holes with fibreglass and resin again. But while the resin was still liquid I screwed the screws in, and waited for the resin to harden.

Since the holes in the door were not so bad, I just bought very similar stainless steel screws. Removed one of the three in each hinge, and filled the hole with resin and glass, then screwed the new screw in and waited for the resin to harden. Repeat two more times, till you have replaced all the screws in the door.

Bob's your uncle. Good as new and ready for another 30 years. There was a bit of clean up, but that is basically it.

Oh yah, that difficult to remove screw will also have to be in the hinge, when you re-install it.

[billkateposs]

Here are the new wool cushions replacing the old orange plaid moldy ones. We removed the top bunk cushion and my husband Bill framed the front window, hiding the old bracket holes. The mold smell still persists, though, especially when it's hot out. Is it behind the vinyl siding? What a mystery.

[billkateposs]

what is the tool you recommend there?

[billkateposs]

Thanks, Dave. we'll give your advice a try.