1986 Taurus Cadet Trailer - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-20-2019, 10:54 AM   #1
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Name: Derek
Trailer: Cadet
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1986 Taurus Cadet Trailer

I picked up my 1986 Taurus Cadet Trailer Yesterday 08/19/19. It is a Project but I trust that I can get to in operating condition by mid Sept. I will not be Pretty, but should be functional. I want to use it before any major renovation this winter.
I started removing the head liner fabric yesterday. More cleaning today and test the systems and appliances.
I will post photos of the work on progress in the future.

Finally I would like to thank Sara for entrusting me with her Cadet project.

Regards
Derek
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Old 08-21-2019, 09:50 AM   #2
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Welcome Derek. I have an '86 Cadet too. Yours looks to be pretty complete. Your front window certainly looks better than mine! I've seen a few more in Ontario but they're not something you see very often.

I'm in Newmarket btw.
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Old 08-21-2019, 03:02 PM   #3
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Hi PCO6
The Front window is good, the back window has cracks, which I will repair or replace. I remove the fabric head liner and washed the exterior. testing the frig. stove.
Have you replaced the fabric in your Cadet?
I live in Port Colborne
Cheers
Derek.ca
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Old 08-21-2019, 07:30 PM   #4
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My back window has a crack too but it's along the hinge and can barely be seen. I'll probably just use clear Gorilla tape until I can come up with an alternative. The front one isn't original. It's flat plexiglass but it's badly yellowed. I'm not that concerned abut originality and will probably find a more modern replacement.

My interior was basically nonexistent. Everything was removed and that was fine with me as I want to design my own layout, furnishings, wall coverings, etc. So far I've only painted the walls, floor and ceiling white to brighten up the "ugly" yellowish glue stains.

The good news is that the frame and axle are in good condition and it tows well. I have a few other trailer and auto projects on the go so it's hard to find the time this one needs. It will be a fun project though once I get at it.
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Old 08-21-2019, 11:43 PM   #5
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Name: K C
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If you have small cracks in your plastic windows you can seal the crack using the Weld-On 4 acrylic cement.

Here is a video showing a repair on a boat windshield. The video is done by professionals in the business of windshield repair. Their method works great if you have the window removed when you go to put new buty rubber tape under the frame.

I have sealed cracks and even chips in an RV widow and also in tail lights with them in place. But for that I don't use the needle tip shown in the video, instead I dip a tiny artist brush into the liquid and let it wick off of the brush into the crack, that way there are no drips. Under no circumstances should you try to blot off or wipe off any excess glue as it will just smear and leave a messy cloudy area where you wipe. This glue is dissolving the edges of the plastic along the crack and that melted area is the "weld".
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Old 08-22-2019, 10:39 AM   #6
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That looks like a good product and a pretty straight forward process. The crack in my rear window is about 8" long and most of it is right by the hinge. Cadet windows have a contour around the entire edge and unfortunately the crack on mine runs right through the contour. That product would probably work. I just wish the rest of the window looked good!

Thanks for the lead.
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Old 08-22-2019, 09:52 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Derek.ca View Post
Hi PCO6
The Front window is good, the back window has cracks, which I will repair or replace. I remove the fabric head liner and washed the exterior. testing the frig. stove.
Have you replaced the fabric in your Cadet?
I live in Port Colborne
Cheers
Derek.ca
erek. B4 you go anywhere in the trailer make sure you get all your propanes systems certified as YOu sure as heck don't want to wake up groggy or dead!
Nice looking Unit, really hard to find those out on the West Coast & if we did and I was not out traveling I would jump on it.
We now travel in comfort but not as comfortable as last year when we had a 30' Gas Guzzling A, we sold it and bought almost new a 2017 body by Winnebago and a 2016 Dodge Promaster Chassis, real nice to drive and park in. We got our twin beds so we now sleep way better. We got everything that the trailer has and more such as a nice shower, but what is missing is storage to keep items. Big thing is we do not buy anything big as we have no where to put it.
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Old 08-25-2019, 08:26 PM   #8
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I removed the working propane stove in favour of a movable butane single burner stove so I can cook outside or inside. The orginal stove opening was cover with 1/2" cutting board material. I don't plan on using the propane system.
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Old 08-25-2019, 08:49 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Derek.ca View Post
I removed the working propane stove in favour of a movable butane single burner stove so I can cook outside or inside. The orginal stove opening was cover with 1/2" cutting board material. I don't plan on using the propane system.
Derek.ca

My daughter and son-in-law borrowed my butane stove for a camping trip and blew it up. Parts of it embedded in their cooler and some shredded the tent fly. Luckily none hit them.

Make sure you read the manual and size your pots and pans within the limitation in the manual.
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Old 08-26-2019, 02:55 AM   #10
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My daughter and son-in-law borrowed my butane stove for a camping trip and blew it up. Parts of it embedded in their cooler and some shredded the tent fly. Luckily none hit them.

Make sure you read the manual and size your pots and pans within the limitation in the manual.
There was a whole batch of defective butane stoves that got recalled just a couple of years ago for doing exactly what you described. So it could well be that stove was one of those units. That lets the daughter and her husband off the responsibility hook for what happened. They did not cause it to blow up, the stove caused the issue by being defective.
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Old 08-26-2019, 09:46 AM   #11
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That could well be, but if you use too large a fry pan, it will be over top of the butane canister, causing it to overheat.
I tried to track down the manufacturer, but got nowhere.
I replaced it with an Iwatani, expensive, but widely used in the restaurant industry.
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Old 08-27-2019, 05:33 AM   #12
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That could well be, but if you use too large a fry pan, it will be over top of the butane canister, causing it to overheat.
I tried to track down the manufacturer, but got nowhere.
I replaced it with an Iwatani, expensive, but widely used in the restaurant industry.
I have used my butane stove many time. My daughter has used it for catering. It is fine for me a two small dogs. Portable and the fact I already owned it are the main factors I am using it.
Thanks for the info
Derek.ca
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Old 08-27-2019, 06:03 AM   #13
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I removed the pop up for cleaning and to dry fit the interior ply ceiling and teak handles. I have 4mm marine ply that I am planning using on the interior of the cadet walls and ceiling, and teak and Holley 1/8Ē ply for the floor. Varnish it all.
I am not set on if I should put some or what type of insulation I should put between the interior fibreglass hull and the marine ply.

Suggest and comments welcome.

Photos dry fit of the ply.

Cheers
Derek.ca
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76557E20-B9F6-4A93-A10A-B66736A3EC7A.jpg   6C6E053E-13D0-4080-AA8E-7B6B66914CA3.jpg  

12E1AAAE-12E3-4895-A10B-D5FF7D63597B.jpg  
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Old 08-31-2019, 01:19 PM   #14
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Captain Polish built

Hello I have a Captain that I refurbished. I totally gutted built in a shower and tolet added large fridge and roof air. I had to build in new roof support for the extra weight and then I had the whole inside spray foamed 1.5 inches it really strengthen trailer and is easy to cool and heat. You can call me if you want to talk 5198994962 I am in Camlachie Ont. Send me your email and I can send pictures.
Randy
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Old 08-31-2019, 09:15 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Derek.ca View Post
I removed the pop up for cleaning and to dry fit the interior ply ceiling and teak handles. I have 4mm marine ply that I am planning using on the interior of the cadet walls and ceiling, and teak and Holley 1/8Ē ply for the floor. Varnish it all.
I am not set on if I should put some or what type of insulation I should put between the interior fibreglass hull and the marine ply.

Suggest and comments welcome.

Photos dry fit of the ply.

Cheers
Derek.ca
That's going to be a nice interior finish. How do you plan to adhere the panel to the roof? For the interior walls, will you be erecting studs to attach the marine panels to?
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Old 08-31-2019, 09:19 PM   #16
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Hello I have a Captain that I refurbished. I totally gutted built in a shower and tolet added large fridge and roof air. I had to build in new roof support for the extra weight and then I had the whole inside spray foamed 1.5 inches it really strengthen trailer and is easy to cool and heat. You can call me if you want to talk 5198994962 I am in Camlachie Ont. Send me your email and I can send pictures.
Randy
I've wondered about using spray foam and I'm glad to hear confirmation that it strengthened your trailer. Did you apply some type of finish (carpet, cloth, paint, etc.) to the walls over the foam?
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Old 08-31-2019, 09:36 PM   #17
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Using an insulation that does not absorb water or support bacterial/mold/fungus growth is the important thing.

The second factor is being able to find a local supply

The third factor is the cost

The fourth factor is ease of installation

The fifth factor is R value, that is tricky because the bottom line is that you are not going to have a large enough wall cavity to get great R value out of any insulating material. But having some is better than having none.

There is no one best choice and that is a good thing because sometimes you can't manage to afford or obtain a "best choice". That frees up the choices and reduces the feeling of "gosh I wish I could have that insulation but...."

So work with a check list and evaluate what you do find locally that is affordable, and easy to install that does not absorb water or support stuff growing on it.
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Old 09-01-2019, 06:10 AM   #18
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That's going to be a nice interior finish. How do you plan to adhere the panel to the roof? For the interior walls, will you be erecting studs to attach the marine panels to?
The pop up roof ply wood is held in place with the nuts and bolts attaching the two handles and 4 hooks that the hold the pop top down.
The roof I glued the wooden blocks into the hollow ribs on the roof and screwed the panels to blocks with SS wood screws and cup washers, The forward and aft top cupboard were removed, rebuilt re-glued, and 3/4" x 3/4" length was added to the top of the cupboards for added strength, The cupboards were re-installed with the 4mm ply held by the top of the cupboard. some trimming of the top edge of the cupboard was needed where there was tight between the ply, roof and cupboard.

The wall panels (the next job). I will glue 1/4' ply blocks to the hull and screw the panels to them with wood screws and cup washers. all the panels will be removable, all fasteners are stainless steel.

The plan is the be camping by early Sept. with a complete rebuild over the winter.
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Old 09-01-2019, 08:07 AM   #19
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Looking good Derek!
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Old 09-01-2019, 08:45 AM   #20
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After I removed the forward and aft upper cupboard I re-glued and re-enforced the top edge by gluing 3/4 x3/4" piece of wood the length of the the cupboard. This straiten the top edge and supported the hinged doors. I do not plan on remodelling the interior, but to re-build. and re-enforce the origin furnishings.
Attach are before and after Photos.

I painted bare wood of the inside with white gloss paint before the cupboard were re-installed
Derek.ca
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