Buying a Bigfoot

[oldwave]

Originally Posted by Travellers

Grant will work with you on most things. Give him a call.

Lol. . The Bigfoot factory is about 12 kilometres from our house.

We are going to be in Enderby this summer and plan on a stop at the Bigfoot Factory if possible.

[oldwave]

Originally Posted by Bruce Olive

I agree with keeping ladder, deleting roof “rack.” Skylights add light and heat. I have blackout covers on mine for hot sunny days. You may want to consider what A/C unit you order. We ditched Dometic for a super quiet Houghton with a heat pump. Works fine on 2,000 W Yamaha genset. I did this myself and sold Dometic. Also see if the factory can add backsplash material same as behind stove all around galley. More practical. I did ours, was a real pain.

Bigfoot is now installing the Coleman air conditioning units. Since we picked up our trailer in December I have not had a chance to turn it on. Quieter I’ve heard, but not as quiet as the houghton. Also they are now using a much smaller skylight than they used to, we opted to keep it. Seeing my friend Perry’s older RQ, the new skylight is much smaller. Will see how it works next summer though the travels will mostly be in Canada where it might be cooler . Had no skylight in the bath though. Ducted air would be nice but we can’t have it all I guess

[Rzrbrn]

Dan, by now you have a pretty good idea of what the 25 Bigfoot series TT has to offer. I have a 2019 25B25RQ with cargo box, bought new off a dealership lot. I have 4 heated Battleborn 100 amp batteries located outside behind the two propane tanks under the cargo box. I have a Xantrex 3012 converter and Renogy MPPT controller, 6 Renogy 100W solar panels on the roof and one suit case panel. I will probably add another 2 or 3 panels to the roof. Did not use the OEM wiring. This has worked in below freezing weather. Also had a Onan 2800LP gen installed shortly after purchasing the trailer with start switch located inside. However, do get the Onan inverter gen, may be quieter. Blue Ox Swaypro WDH. All work well. Weight varies due to adding and taking things out of the cargo box, but seems to hover around 1200 lbs hitch weight. I am thinking about taking out the twin 30 lb tanks and going with 20 pounders to lighten up the tongue weight.
I pull with a 2019 Ram 2500 4x4 crew cab diesel. Had a 2010 Tundra with 4x4 and 5.7L engine. Towed up the Rockies well enough. But much prefer the diesel for going downhill. The turning radius is not as good as the Tundra.
I prev had a 17 Casita. Camped in a couple of CGs that were very, very tight. You will have to be careful with the 29' BF (25QB with cargo box), although I just tell them it is a 25RQ and have no problems in camps sites listed at 25' as long as you have room to let the rear of the trailer overhang the back of the site. But it is a big trailer and should be considered as such when selecting sites. And you may have to disconnect, which may present a problem with a hybrid truck, so be sure to have a long electrical cord between truck and trailer if you plan on using the truck to supplement the trailer batteries.
I also changed out the frig to a 12V compressor, and have installed the Lippert center point air suspension, which added about 3" or so of road clearance. I dislike the skylights and the roof rack. Also would much rather have the bed in the front and dinette in the back and prefer the MaxAir fans; may change mine out, including the bathroom fan.
Hope this helps a bit.
Also I have the 13.5K AC with a MicroAir Easystart installed. and have run the AC off the batteries without running the Genny.

[RobertRyan]

Originally Posted by Bruce Olive

Fitting into a campsite is more like becoming a “site whisperer.” Our “27 foot” 25RQ has settled into Chisos Basin twice, as did our Oliver. Both were deemed too big by most campers (20 foot max).
.

Fascinating discussion. In Australia you have a cut off 30ft length for Caravan Resorts If you have 45ft Conveeted Coach boondock it.
We always thought US Caravan Parks would cater for 45ft Motorhomes. It appears to be not the case

[Rzrbrn]

Correction, I have an Onan 2500 LP gen. The 2800 is the same gen using gas.

Also, Be aware, the gen uses the coach batteries to start, which means if the voltage goes down, say on a couple of cloudy days, the gen may not start. You can use the tow vehicle batteries to jump start the coach batteries, however. At least this is possible with my Battleborn batteries, which have a BMS.

[Perryb67]

Originally Posted by BigDan

Well I don’t know what to say about the trailer size debate. Completely respect your experience Perry, but if they’re selling so many, and so many 28’ SOB’s are sold they must be working for people. Personally I really like the look of the front storage (yeah OK) but mainly want it as an electrical closet - with insulation and climate control.

We either don't or rarely see a 28' SOB where we camp. In some campgrounds we go they can't even navigate the turns in trees to the site. Jay Cooke campground by Duluth has a loop that specifically says no campers over 20 feet. One time we were there a large motorhome decided to ignore the sign and it took a number of people and many moves forward and back to finally get his home backed out of the site. There's a forest service campground on the North Shore by Finland that we're not sure we'll be able to navigate into any site. We've yet to see a 25' camper there, but I'm sure someone has tried. We'll try, but not sure we'll make it.

I don't expect everyone to camp where we do, and if they do, they'd better know how to back a camper in reverse a long distance.

We have friends with a Airstream 23FB we camp with quite often, but they won't camp in some of the places we camp.

Buy according to your needs and understand your limitations. There are many members here that love their 27RQ's/RT's. They're great campers!

Enjoy,

Perry

[Rzrbrn]

Besides the somewhat reduced number of sites available for the longer trailers, for me a much more important issue is the positioning of the truck/trailer when fueling. Pulling the 25RQ with the Tundra it became apparent that only the outside pumps in the gas pump line should be used, and then only if the pumps had a clear line of ingress and egress, which many do not. With the Ram 2500 crew cab my turning radius is greater and so the diesel available in the gas pump line is even more difficult to access, to the point that I now use the semi truck fuel pumps whenever possible. But sometime the only diesel pump available is in an impossible location for my long rig, so I bring along a 5 gal diesel fuel container just in case I need to hand carry fuel, which has yet to happen, but I expect it will eventually.

Sometimes I think I may trade in the diesel for a gasser, but then I remember the issues mentioned above. Very glad I can use the semi truck fuel pumps.

[Brad-Beth]

Great post. Thanks for all the information. I am creating a build list for a 25 Twin Bed.

I downloaded the Brochure from the Bigfoot website and you are able to use line draw and text box to line out, or edit, the items on the brochure. Kinda fun to do as all the options are listed. I lined through the items we do not want.

Do they still offer the factory installed 4" axle lift kit?

We want no skylight in Galley, no skylight in Shower, no front window, no outside shower, no outside speakers, no rooftop rack (ladder only), no black tank rinse, no front cargo box, no drawers inside under the twin bed, no roll away shower door.

Mostly deleting more "holes" in the roof and side as potential leaks and caulk maintenance. We were not going to put a Max-Air in place of the Gally skylight to leave room on the roof for more solar panels.

I would like opinions on the oven. That is something we would never use, would rather have the 2-burner flush stovetop so the countertop is flush with no bump up on the oven stovetop for better countertop space. Is the oven a must have for resale?

You have the option of the 2 recliner chairs, instead of the 2-bench dinette.

But in place of the 2-recliner chair option, I would rather have an "L" shape dinette bench, with a full bench across the front wall where the recliners would be. With lift up seats for storage and provide my own table. Would really open up the floorplan. By making an "L" shape dinette, you could also turn it into one big bed with the right table set up.

I guess if you did a full dinette bench across the front wall, you could possibly put your extra batteries under that bench?

It is nice Bigfoot will work with you, within reason.

Thanks for you input.

[Rzrbrn]

Beth, after you place your order please let us know here how many of the items you requested are actually allowed by Big Foot.

We have never used the radio and don't like having the radio antenna.

We have never used the oven, and I would not worry about that being a deal breaker regarding resale, some people use it, some don't. I don't recall ever even using the gas stove top. We do use the microwave, and I cook outside on electric or propane.

[Brad-Beth]

Originally Posted by Rzrbrn

Beth, after you place your order please let us know here how many of the items you requested are actually allowed by Big Foot.

We have never used the radio and don't like having the radio antenna.

We have never used the oven, and I would not worry about that being a deal breaker regarding resale, some people use it, some don't. I don't recall ever even using the gas stove top. We do use the microwave, and I cook outside on electric or propane.

Most items I am just deleting off the brochure list, so they basically will not be drilling the holes in the roof or sides with the templates they use to install those items.

As far as the oven, I would hope it would not be a big deal for Bigfoot to just drop in the 2-burner stovetop as they already have those in the smaller Bigfoot floorplans and add the drawers underneath like the other units where the oven would be. I don't think that would be that big of a change. Not asking for anything complicated on that.

They already offer the 2-recliner option. So, in place of that empty floor "space", it would be easy to just build a dinette bench across the entire front wall. This would provide over 5 1/2 feet of storage space under the bench seat.

The side bench has to be there (water heater, etc.) and would keep it. An "L" shape dinette would be a good permanent option to offer buyers. Then those who want to add the extra batteries or other stuff would have the space to put it.

Not ready to order, just getting my wish list complete.

[Perryb67]

Originally Posted by Brad-Beth

We want no skylight in Galley, no skylight in Shower, no front window, no outside shower, no outside speakers, no rooftop rack (ladder only), no black tank rinse, no front cargo box, no drawers inside under the twin bed, no roll away shower door.

Mostly deleting more "holes" in the roof and side as potential leaks and caulk maintenance. We were not going to put a Max-Air in place of the Gally skylight to leave room on the roof for more solar panels.

I would like opinions on the oven. That is something we would never use, would rather have the 2-burner flush stovetop so the countertop is flush with no bump up on the oven stovetop for better countertop space. Is the oven a must have for resale?

But in place of the 2-recliner chair option, I would rather have an "L" shape dinette bench, with a full bench across the front wall where the recliners would be. With lift up seats for storage and provide my own table. Would really open up the floorplan. By making an "L" shape dinette, you could also turn it into one big bed with the right table set up.

I guess if you did a full dinette bench across the front wall, you could possibly put your extra batteries under that bench?

Little excessive on the removal of holes. Eliminating holes in the roof, yes I agree, but holes in the sides? In all our campers (12 previous) over the decades we've never had a leak on something on the side of the camper. I'd definitely keep the black tank flush.

We also find the outside shower needless for us.

Our previous 2003 25RQ had a shower curtain. Hated it! It rubs against you and can easily allow water on the bathroom floor. We love the sliding door in our 2016 25RQ for the shower. It's quite robust and can easily be replaced.

A few years ago I toured a 25RQ with the "L" shape dinette/couch and loved it. Plus you get more storage, but that area adds to the tongue weight and Bigfoot's tongue weight is quite high already. I'd only put light items there.

I'd 100% get a MaxxFan in the galley. It works far better than the hood over the stove. We pulled the hood in our Escape and only used the MaxxFan. Our moisture problems were eliminated. If I eliminated one, it would be the MaxxFan above the bed.

At some point this year or next we'll be removing the stove/oven and installing a decent stovetop. We want all that space where the oven sits for vertical storage. Many Escape owers choose to only have a stovetop. It's not a dealbreaker for resale.

We rarely open the front window cap to see out. For us, we'd put a TV there. We currently watch movies on a laptop with Terry next to the fride and I sit in in a Lafuma chair in front of the entry.

The drawers underneath the bed are used all the time. Plus we store rarely used items between the drawers and sides and access by simply lifting up the cover.

Since we bought our 2016 25RQ used we didn't have a choice. We have their older huge skylight in the galley and the skylight in the shower. I'll be building a cover for the galley skylight, that's easy, not so sure it's easy to build one for the shower.

Even with the huge galley skylight and shower skylight, we have enough room to add three 200 watt panels and four 150 watt panels (1200 watts). However, this spring I'll be only adding two 200 panels (we already have a 160 watt panel on the roof) for 560 watts. Our previous Escape had 465 watts and that was fine, even with our 1500 watt inverter. How much solar do you need?

Food for thought,

Perry

[Brad-Beth]

Perryb67

Thank you for your input. I will reconsider the Roll Away Shower Door option and the Galley Max-Air Vent instead of that skylight. You have a good point on the shower curtain problem.

Glad you did get to see the "L" dinette. I think this would be a popular option and easy for Bigfoot to install. I would think the dinette bench would be lighter than the Theatre Seating option they have.

With the "L" shape dinette, you could have put a TV in the middle of that bench in a homemade mount to the bench and have plenty of extra room by the door for your extra chair. The "L" shape bench gives a lot of options and for those who want a bigger, longer, bed there.

I tried to upload a JPEG picture of the floorplan I created but I don't think I did it right.

I would put the laundry basket, paper towels, and paper products under that bench across the front. Light weight blankets, stuff like that.

Yes, the outside shower we never used in our other RV for 10 years.

The oven we will never use, would rather have the storage drawers there, and a flat, larger countertop space with the recessed 2-burner stovetop. We rarely used our stovetop, but nice to have just in case of weather.

We had a black tank rinse, used it twice, do not need it or to carry extra hoses. Just another potential leak. We clean our tank by putting 3 buckets of water down the toilet with Calgon and 20 Mule Team Borax BEFORE a trip. Let it swish around on the drive and dump it at the campsite.

Yes, on eliminating the front window, we would never open the cover.

Good information all around, I hope it will help others.

[Rzrbrn]

Don't quite understand the L shaped dinette concept, it would be nice to see a picture or two.

We have the standard dinette layout. Wife likes the dinette to set 4 adults but my thought is that the slope of the front means that only short or small adults can sit at the table near the front. The drivers side front part of the dinette has been a problem for us. My head touches the wall in the front corner so I have to sit with a bent head when legs are up on the seat cushion to watch TV. We have tried to put various cushions and foam in that area but nothing seems to be just right. To me the front should be the bedroom, without a front window and the dinette should be at the very back, where there are 3 nice windows.

[Brad-Beth]

Open front wall of dinette. There would be a Back Bolster on the bench keeping your head away from the slant in the wall.

[Brad-Beth]

Floorplan with "L" Dinette

[Brad-Beth]

Bigfoot measurements. The existing table is deep. Yes, you can put a bench across the entire front with the back bolster. I would provide my own table, or there are long tables available, like they use for the U-shape dinettes in other brands.

As mentioned above, a poster did see a BF with the L dinette and did like it.

I would put 2 - 24" round tables I can move around. You could put 2 square tables and move one table away from the drivers side corner slope that you hit your head, that bench is long on the driver's side.

[Rzrbrn]

I know it will be a long time before completion, but if you remember please post a pick of this area of your new trailer. Really looking forward to seeing how this design plays out. Beth, thank you for posting.

[Brad-Beth]

Originally Posted by Rzrbrn

I know it will be a long time before completion, but if you remember please post a pick of this area of your new trailer. Really looking forward to seeing how this design plays out. Beth, thank you for posting.

I think it would be a great option to offer. I like the open floor space vs. the cramped dinette with the storage box behind the bench seat near the door.

You could use your own smaller table, add a cube foot stool with the storage lid. Lots of ways to personalize the open space.

I had saved the pictures of the bare front wall area someone else posted. I will start a new thread in the future.

Thank you.

[BigDan]

Thanks for posting, I had heard it might be possible to delete the dinette. I’m a pianist so would like to build a piano writing bench along the wall, and my wife would prefer the open floor space to do a Japanese style seating arrangement.

[BigDan]

Originally Posted by Rzrbrn

Besides the somewhat reduced number of sites available for the longer trailers, for me a much more important issue is the positioning of the truck/trailer when fueling … Sometimes I think I may trade in the diesel for a gasser, but then I remember the issues mentioned above. Very glad I can use the semi truck fuel pumps.

I’m in a more unusual situation, as I’ll be towing it with a Silverado EV (note - pure electric not a hybrid) next year. This looks like a good group, mature enough for me to mention this. Some other forums (cough Airstream^h^h^h) can’t have an adult conversion about differing power trains without people losing their heads.

Anyhow, no EV chargers presently support towing. The RV lobbying group is working with the NEVI group for the federal charging, and GM is pouring a billion dollars into a charging network at Flying J’s which will be tow friendly. In the meantime there’s a YouTube channel of a couple towing a 30’ Airstream with a Rivian and Lightning, and it’s working just fine for them as it is now.