Hi! I'm Dena & hopefully about to become a lil bigfoot owner!

[Kenny Strong]

Dena the canopy support rail is a little long, not wrong! We have an 8 foot, yours is perhaps an 10 foot. Our canopy extends about 6 inches, front and rear, in performs very well. Our egg is 10.25 inches at the bottom of the entrance door, to the ground. Our egg looks the same as yours when one looks at the top of the wheel, rim to the out side of the wheel well, ours has never bottomed out and hit the top of the inside wheel well. Other brands have a step to enter, ours does not, they are higher off the ground. The bottom of the egg is one piece fiberglass, just like the top, and has no out side exposure very safe for good flooring. If I haven't been in the egg for awhile, I still hit my head when getting out of the entrance.

Later Kenny

[Bob Miller]

Congrats on the new additon to your family. Here's a few notes to add to the many you will get:

1. Almost all of the Lil'Bigfoots I have seen ride about where yours is when unloaded. If it sinks more than an inch or so loaded it might be a concern, but not as of yet. The Lil'Bigfoot was a unique model that didn't appear to share much with other Bigfoots (BigFeet?) of the time. It also has a leading arm axle arrangement, meaning that BigFoot elected to install the axle in the oposite manner as most builders in order to get to the widest part of the chassis, yet anothe design unique to the Lil' BigFoot.

2. Whitewall tires usually indicate that passenger car tires are installed. These may be OK in the short run, but be sure to check the age dates and keep them at the maximum pressure indicated on the sidewall.

3. If the repainted part comes off with a fingernail that's good news, and it should be easy (?) to remove at a future date. But... don't try sanding just yet as that will damage the gelcoat (not paint) that may be under the paint. Fiberglass will withstand almost all chemical attacks so using a print stripper and/or a heat gun may make short work of the existing paint and you may be able to restore the entire exterior with a good application of ZEP Wet Look wax...... See if you can get a local auto painter to identify that's on there now before you start.

4. Check out each of the coach systems one at a time and, if something doesn't work, post a note on the board. A lot of seemingly broken items ofter just need a slight tweek as a result of not being used. That said, for now, DON't leave it plugged in when not occupied. BTW: There is a switch on the converter under the left dinette seat, be sure that's in the "Conv" position when plugged in. There is also a circuit breaker and 1 fuse in the same area. Check those first if something doesn't work.

5. For the above, before applying any power, remove all of the cushions and covers inside and look under the seats for any signs of wire damage from rodents etc. Leave everyting open for visual and smell inspections when you first start testing both power and water systems.

6. Check the water system for leaks, especially the filler tube going to the tank under the right dinette seat. I don't believe yours has a pressure system, just a simple water pump that you have to turn on and off when opening the faucet. Be sure to turn it off when not actually running water. The inside water pump is usualy connected to the left faucet, the outside water connection to the right faucet. Don't look for a water heater, you won't find one.....

7. Get some "Gas Leak Detector" at the local hardware store and, after turning on the LP tank, check all gas line connections for leaks. Do this before trying to light the stove or furnace. A gas laek fire can ruin an otherwise good day.

8. Set a realistic "Fix Up" budget for: a) needed repairs and b) changes and additions you want to make.
You will get to spend some money, so setting some aside up front will remove the temptation to bypass or short cut fixes. It always costs less to do it right the first time, than having emergency repairs made on the road a second time.

9. A few things I would do were it mine to update: a) If it wasn't done already, get the wheels pulled and the bearings repacked and new seals installed. All new bearings are cheap if done at the same time, but insist that they also replace the "Races". What grease is in there now may have turned to peanut butter and may well lubricate about as well. b) c) Plan on removing and resealing the side windows. It's an easy job when planned, but a real PITA to fix it starts to leak, same for the roof hatch. Be ahead of problems. c) install a new power chassis, the Progressive Dynamics PD-4045 will replace the dated converter/charger you have as well as give you a 3 stage battery charger that will protect and prolong the life of the new battery you will have to buy anyway. It wil also give you the ability to add just about anything you will need/want in the future.

OK.... I guess that will about use up your first weekend of fun. Let us know what you find and how it goes....

[kootenaigirl]

Wow, great story. Sound like really nice previous owners you lucked out for sure - great trailer at an even greater price. Congratulations.

[Bob Miller]

Ooops.... I had to rewrite/revise the priorities in Post #62. My Bad...

[Mike Magee]

Yahoo! Happy day!

[denabear]

Originally Posted by Donna D.

Good for you Dena Glad it turned out to be as good as the pictures showed.

BTW, your Lil Foot didn't come from the factory painted, that's gel coat under that flaking paint. There are ways to get it off. Some solutions involve paint stripper, some may involve sanding (then repainting). We're here when you're ready for that...

Thanks Donna! So you are saying that the creamy colour of top of shell and what is showing under bad white paint job is just gel coating and nothing else? is that a good thing in regards to repainting or does it not really matter in the grand scheme of things?? Either way, i am very thankful for this forum because i truly have no clue what to do and where to start and i am so over my head already but strangely excited about it all

Originally Posted by Roy in TO

Keep in mind that the tongue weight will lower most tow vehicles rear ends a bit, nose down does not hurt.

Comparing the pictures you posted here: http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...tml#post412746

There is quite a difference in where the center of the spindle is located in relation to the body. Yours appears to be sitting quite low. Worthy of investigation by comparing to other pictures and an axle inspection.

Congratulations on the purchase! Now get her fixed up before you get twofootitis, a common ailment among FGRV owners. Right Jim?

Thanks Roy!,
sigh, off to google what a spindle is and figure out what you just posted hahaha. ps - what is twofootitis?
sounds serious

Originally Posted by Thomas G.

Congratulations. You really scored a good deal, regardless of any small issues that need to be taken care of.

Although the temptation is to start off with cosmetic stuff like curtains and paint, I'd go over all the mechanical, electrical and plumbing with a fine tooth comb. If the tires are over 5 or 6 years old (date code is on the side), replace them regardless of how much tread is on them. Make sure that the battery takes and holds a charge. Repack the wheel bearings. Check out the frame for cracks, especially where the tongue meets the body. Make sure that the suspension has adequate travel and is sound. Double check for leaking with a garden hose on windows, and any other pass through the body, like vents. If it leaks, you want to know now, not in the middle of a fun trip.

Once you have a good, sound trailer, go crazy with making it your own.

Thanks Tom, right now i am a little overwhelmed and i think in a bit of shock. Spent the morning on our front patio just staring at her and smiling. No idea where to start so will just continue to smile till i get it figured out.

Originally Posted by Kenny Strong

Dena the canopy support rail is a little long, not wrong! We have an 8 foot, yours is perhaps an 10 foot. Our canopy extends about 6 inches, front and rear, in performs very well. Our egg is 10.25 inches at the bottom of the entrance door, to the ground. Our egg looks the same as yours when one looks at the top of the wheel, rim to the out side of the wheel well, ours has never bottomed out and hit the top of the inside wheel well. Other brands have a step to enter, ours does not, they are higher off the ground. The bottom of the egg is one piece fiberglass, just like the top, and has no out side exposure very safe for good flooring. If I haven't been in the egg for awhile, I still hit my head when getting out of the entrance.

Later Kenny

Thanks Kenny! I too noticed how long the awning rail is. Doesn't bother me in the least as long as it works. still haven't pulled out the awning to check it out. Was curious so just ran out and measured. ours is 9.5 inches from bottom of door to ground.

Originally Posted by Bob Miller

Congrats on the new additon to your family. Here's a few notes to add to the many you will get:

1. Almost all of the Lil'Bigfoots I have seen ride about where yours is when unloaded. If it sinks more than an inch or so loaded it might be a concern, but not as of yet. The Lil'Bigfoot was a unique model that didn't appear to share much with other Bigfoots (BigFeet?) of the time. It also has a leading arm axle arrangement, meaning that BigFoot elected to install the axle in the oposite manner as most builders in order to get to the widest part of the chassis, yet anothe design unique to the Lil' BigFoot.

thanks so much for the lenghty suggestions and info. much appreciated. I will be sure to check out what happens when loaded up.

2. Whitewall tires usually indicate that passenger car tires are installed. These may be OK in the short run, but be sure to check the age dates and keep them at the maximum pressure indicated on the sidewall.

thanks, will check that out too

3. If the repainted part comes off with a fingernail that's good news, and it should be easy (?) to remove at a future date. But... don't try sanding just yet as that will damage the gelcoat (not paint) that may be under the paint. Fiberglass will withstand almost all chemical attacks so using a print stripper and/or a heat gun may make short work of the existing paint and you may be able to restore the entire exterior with a good application of ZEP Wet Look wax...... See if you can get a local auto painter to identify that's on there now before you start.

sure am hoping its an easy fix. the tongue thingy was professionally painted by the guy i just bought off of so that part will be a different story to the egg itself.

4. Check out each of the coach systems one at a time and, if something doesn't work, post a note on the board. A lot of seemingly broken items ofter just need a slight tweek as a result of not being used. That said, for now, DON't leave it plugged in when not occupied. BTW: There is a switch on the converter under the left dinette seat, be sure that's in the "Conv" position when plugged in. There is also a circuit breaker and 1 fuse in the same area. Check those first if something doesn't work.

5. For the above, before applying any power, remove all of the cushions and covers inside and look under the seats for any signs of wire damage from rodents etc. Leave everyting open for visual and smell inspections when you first start testing both power and water systems.

thanks, i will definitely do a good and complete walk through check of everything.

6. Check the water system for leaks, especially the filler tube going to the tank under the right dinette seat. I don't believe yours has a pressure system, just a simple water pump that you have to turn on and off when opening the faucet. Be sure to turn it off when not actually running water. The inside water pump is usualy connected to the left faucet, the outside water connection to the right faucet. Don't look for a water heater, you won't find one.....

thank you, i have yet to check anything out with the water system. will get to that sooner rather than later.

7. Get some "Gas Leak Detector" at the local hardware store and, after turning on the LP tank, check all gas line connections for leaks. Do this before trying to light the stove or furnace. A gas leak fire can ruin an otherwise good day.

thanks. will do

8. Set a realistic "Fix Up" budget for: a) needed repairs and b) changes and additions you want to make.
You will get to spend some money, so setting some aside up front will remove the temptation to bypass or short cut fixes. It always costs less to do it right the first time, than having emergency repairs made on the road a second time.

9. A few things I would do were it mine to update: a) If it wasn't done already, get the wheels pulled and the bearings repacked and new seals installed. All new bearings are cheap if done at the same time, but insist that they also replace the "Races". What grease is in there now may have turned to peanut butter and may well lubricate about as well. b) c) Plan on removing and resealing the side windows. It's an easy job when planned, but a real PITA to fix it starts to leak, same for the roof hatch. Be ahead of problems. c) install a new power chassis, the Progressive Dynamics PD-4045 will replace the dated converter/charger you have as well as give you a 3 stage battery charger that will protect and prolong the life of the new battery you will have to buy anyway. It wil also give you the ability to add just about anything you will need/want in the future.

OK.... I guess that will about use up your first weekend of fun. Let us know what you find and how it goes....

thank you again for the wealth of information. it is a lot to start off with but i am looking forward to learning and doing.

Originally Posted by kootenaigirl

Wow, great story. Sound like really nice previous owners you lucked out for sure - great trailer at an even greater price. Congratulations.

thanks so much. i feel very lucky. overwhelmed, but lucky

Originally Posted by Mike Magee

Yahoo! Happy day!

yes indeed!! Thanks

[denabear]

Originally Posted by Roy in TO

Keep in mind that the tongue weight will lower most tow vehicles rear ends a bit, nose down does not hurt.

Comparing the pictures you posted here: http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...tml#post412746

There is quite a difference in where the center of the spindle is located in relation to the body. Yours appears to be sitting quite low. Worthy of investigation by comparing to other pictures and an axle inspection.

Congratulations on the purchase! Now get her fixed up before you get twofootitis, a common ailment among FGRV owners. Right Jim?

ok i googled, and figured it out. yay me.

now, could the differences in spindle location between the two compared photos be due to the fact that the 1st image the trailer is jacked up way high in the fromt and the photo of mine, the trailer is just sitting straight/level on the little wheel thingy????? (i swear i will learn proper terminology some day but for now, thingy and doodads are the kind of language you will get from me lol)

[Vickie B.]

Bob Miller----that was a great post! May have to print it out!

[Bob Miller]

Lil' Bigfoots don't seem to have as much wheel clearance as others, such as Scamp etc..

You can compare the wheel position on our 94 Lil'Bigfoot in these pics.
advocateone's Library | Photobucket

In the solo pics it is unloaded, in the pics on page 2, when being towed, it is fully loaded. I think that yours is about the same.

[denabear]

Originally Posted by Bob Miller

Lil' Bigfoots don't seem to have as much wheel clearance as others, such as Scamp etc..

You can compare the wheel position on our 94 Lil'Bigfoot in these pics.
advocateone's Library | Photobucket

In the solo pics it is unloaded, in the pics on page 2, when being towed, it is fully loaded. I think that yours is about the same.

thanks for sharing the photos. your lil bigfoot is beautiful!! i do see what you mean about the wheel clearance.

[Jack L]

This looks like a fun project. When you get around to the paint removal part of the project you might try a pressure washer or better yet a hot water pressure washer to get the old paint off. I have rented a hot water pressure washer and they will get paint off of many hard surfaces.

Good luck- have fun

[denabear]

Originally Posted by Jack L

This looks like a fun project. When you get around to the paint removal part of the project you might try a pressure washer or better yet a hot water pressure washer to get the old paint off. I have rented a hot water pressure washer and they will get paint off of many hard surfaces.

Good luck- have fun

Thanks for the tip. Feeling a bit overwhelmed with it all but will get started eventually lol

[Donna D.]

Dena, camping season is short and getting shorter every day. Don't worry about the way it looks. If it's safe to go down the road, get out and ENJOY before the summer is over.

[denabear]

Donna

That's the thing. It towed home easy Peasy but I personally have no idea on how safe it is. Need someone with knowledge to ck it out and see just not sure who or where to get it looked at.

[Carol H]

[QUOTE=denabear;413181]Thanks Donna! So you are saying that the creamy colour of top of shell and what is showing under bad white paint job is just gel coating and nothing else? is that a good thing in regards to repainting or does it not really matter in the grand scheme of things?? Either way, i am very thankful for this forum because i truly have no clue what to do and where to start and i am so over my head already but strangely excited about it all

Dena welcome and congrats on the new trailer. Great find and great price! Donna is correct the original gelcoat is the yellow that appears on top. It also may have been that the trailer had brown/gold strips original to it as well. Here is a photo of a 1988 Lil Bigfoot with a yellow body in original state for reference.

[Psinfield]

Welcome Dena

I have inherited the family Trillium 1300, and it looked a lot worse than yours.
A little elbow grease, and some wax, and TLC, looks real good now.
Had it out a couple of weeks ago for the shakedown, everything worked well, now we are headed for Penticton.
And the Camaro will be towing this time...

[denabear]

Originally Posted by Carol H

Dena welcome and congrats on the new trailer. Great find and great price! Donna is correct the original gelcoat is the yellow that appears on top. It also may have been that the trailer had brown/gold strips original to it as well. Here is a photo of a 1988 Lil Bigfoot with a yellow body in original state for reference.

Thanks Carol, I loved looking at the photos.

Originally Posted by Psinfield

Welcome Dena

I have inherited the family Trillium 1300, and it looked a lot worse than yours.
A little elbow grease, and some wax, and TLC, looks real good now.
Had it out a couple of weeks ago for the shakedown, everything worked well, now we are headed for Penticton.
And the Camaro will be towing this time...

Thanks Peter,
I am hoping that i can get my butt in gear and get some work done before the dreaded snow hits us and we are stuck in a frozen wasteland for 6 months lol

[denabear]

if anyone is interested i started a new thread about the first trip to a mechanic and all the hastle i forsee in getting the axle fixed and everything else that may or may not need doing.,.,.


http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...tml#post469907