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Old 12-16-2015, 05:19 AM   #1
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Name: Virgo
Trailer: Currently Shopping
California
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Hi kittens! I'm so happy to almost be one of you!

I'm putting my order in for the 13' Scamp which I will take delivery of in June. Six months is a long time to wait, but at least I have a little time to plan out my full-time and adventures and travel spots. And of course, once on my way I won't stick to anything according to the plan, LOL. I just wanted to introduce myself and start poking around on the forums. I only have one real help question: Where is the link to the thread about installing a window air conditioner into the side closet on the Scamp 13. There must be one, LOL. I can't be the first person to have thought about this as an alternative to the factory roof air-conditioning unit!
Anyway, happy to be here and happy to see so many fiberglass RV owners.


F/T RV'r for 3 years now, currently in a 26 foot class a Winnebago. Changing it up to a Scamp 13 and my existing Volkswagen TDI as the tow vehicle. @VocalVirgo all over the webiverse.
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Old 12-16-2015, 05:43 AM   #2
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I've seen a number of threads about the AC install. Best way to find them is the "Site Search/Google" feature. On the blue bar under your log-in information, choose search, and go all the way to the bottom. (Note- it's not available on the app; you have to be on the website.)
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Old 12-16-2015, 07:48 AM   #3
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It seems a shame to carve up a brand new Scamp, as well as lose some of what little storage space there is in a 13'er, when a low profile roof a/c is factory available. Is there a specific reason for that choice?


BTW: I believe that the side wall window a/c used to be a factory installed option



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Old 12-16-2015, 08:16 AM   #4
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Name: Frederick / Janis
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Originally Posted by Bob Miller View Post
It seems a shame to carve up a brand new Scamp, as well as lose some of what little storage space there is in a 13'er, when a low profile roof a/c is factory available. Is there a specific reason for that choice?


BTW: I believe that the side wall window a/c used to be a factory installed option
Agree competely.

If the issue is garaging height, then maybe something like this would give you a workable option?? See what you think. http://www.walmart.com/ip/11341608?w...640705&veh=sem
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Old 12-16-2015, 08:31 AM   #5
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Agree competely.

If the issue is garaging height, then maybe something like this would give you a workable option?? See what you think. Sunpentown 9,000 BTU Portable Air Conditioner with Remote - Walmart.com
Same comment, especially in a 13'er.
"Most of the "Portable" a/c units are very large for use in an FGRV and all require an outside vent of some sort. And, when you aren't using it, it's still using floor space."



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Old 12-16-2015, 08:57 AM   #6
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Those are good points. Beyond the "carving up" objection, know that installation involves more than just cutting fiberglass. Providing support, exhausting hot air, and draining condensate are all tricky issues. This is not a beginner's project.

Even assuming a "perfect" installation, the result will not cool as effectively as a roof mount in extreme temperatures and humidity. Roof AC has more efficient air circulation both inside and outside. There's a reason Scamp changed to the RV standard.

Closet mount can be done, and I might consider it myself if I did not anticipate heavy cooling needs. I dislike the way roof AC looks on small eggs. But that's a personal preference, and alternatives to involve sacrifices.

With a new or near-new trailer, resale is something to consider as well. Most buyers would prefer roof AC.

I would encourage you to read as much as you can from the old threads. I believe you can change your mind up until Scamp starts your build.
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Old 12-16-2015, 08:57 AM   #7
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Florida
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Very few garages have the 8' clearance needed for clearance without going to some small storage wheels.
I don't think it is possible to get one in a garage with 7' doors.
This is without the top mount A/C on my 16' Scamp (1986) which should be close the the overall height of the new 13'.
The low profile roof mount A/C would be a good option for this.
Personally I installed a 3/4 ton mini split, but I don't think that this is an option for the unmodified 13' (or any other unmodified Scamp) due to lack of space on the tongue extension.
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Old 12-16-2015, 10:41 AM   #8
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A roof top A/C unit is both repairable and built to a standard which allows it to be easily replaced. The window units are not.
Rooftops are more efficient and can easily be had with a heat strip, while taking up no usable space.
I have used the little Frigidaire units with decent results. They are small enough to be mounted with the condenser and drain completely outside.
In fact it is small enough to build a removable window mount for the rear window without modifying the trailer.
Scamp used to mount a regular window unit under the port bench in the back.
Here are a few examples of installations of small window units.
My advice would be to get rooftop A/C with the heat strip.
I found it easier to raise the header on my garage, on my former house,and install an 8ft door as shown in the first photo below.
Attached Thumbnails
June 2009 003.jpg   06_30_3.jpg  

1978 Scamp 13 035.jpg   DSCF0056.JPG  

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Old 12-16-2015, 10:52 AM   #9
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We eventually replaced both doors, but this picture shows the difference between the 8ft and the 7ft doors.
Many garages can handle this mod by simply raising the header.
Some can not.
Attached Thumbnails
June 2009 002.jpg  
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Old 12-16-2015, 01:39 PM   #10
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Florida
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Contractors wouldn't even give me a quote to raise the garage door

I tried to get contractors to give me quotes to raise my garage door, but they wouldn't touch the project. Two of them said it was too much trouble and would be too expensive. We went the small wheels route and bought a 13ft Scamp without the roof air conditioner. We are using a window model air conditioner that we install when at the campground. With practice the install takes about 6 minutes.

Floyd, do you mind me asking about how much your garage door raising project cost? What kind of contractor did the job? I still want to get this modification done!

Thanks,
Julie
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Old 12-16-2015, 01:47 PM   #11
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Raising garage doors usually has to do with the style of the roof. If like Floyds example above, it can often be done, but if the roof edge is parallel to the front of the garage, there usually isn't enough room to move the door header more than a few inches, if anything.


Because the garage door header is a load bearing component, it will usually also require a building permit and all that goes with that.



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Old 12-16-2015, 07:03 PM   #12
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Since Scamp installed the small 'window' AC units for years, they have the know-how. Maybe you can cajole them into adding one to your new 13'er.
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Old 12-16-2015, 07:53 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Miller View Post
Raising garage doors usually has to do with the style of the roof. If like Floyds example above, it can often be done, but if the roof edge is parallel to the front of the garage, there usually isn't enough room to move the door header more than a few inches, if anything.


Because the garage door header is a load bearing component, it will usually also require a building permit and all that goes with that.
OH that's right....I always get advice and permission from the only authority that counts...The owner.
My example was of course a non load bearing gable end.
I did assume that anyone without sufficient knowledge would seek outside advice before attempting just about anything.
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Old 12-16-2015, 08:09 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Julie and Jose View Post
I tried to get contractors to give me quotes to raise my garage door, but they wouldn't touch the project. Two of them said it was too much trouble and would be too expensive. We went the small wheels route and bought a 13ft Scamp without the roof air conditioner. We are using a window model air conditioner that we install when at the campground. With practice the install takes about 6 minutes.

Floyd, do you mind me asking about how much your garage door raising project cost? What kind of contractor did the job? I still want to get this modification done!

Thanks,
Julie
I don't mind at all.... it was the cost of the new doors including trim, plus ..nothing. I was even able to build a header bracket for each old garage door opener which with adjustment allowed the reuse of both openers.
I did the work myself so no contractor.
I would start by getting an estimate from a garage door company which does installation, they may have the requisite skills and they do want to sell doors, so maybe the carpentry part would be reasonable.
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Old 12-16-2015, 08:51 PM   #15
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Nice looking job Floyd. Wish I could do that to mine but with the building/roof design and a 16' wide door, nope. Probably be cheaper to build a bigger garage out back, mmmm, honey, I've got an idea
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Old 12-17-2015, 12:14 AM   #16
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Attachment 91160
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Originally Posted by Borrego Dave View Post
Nice looking job Floyd. Wish I could do that to mine but with the building/roof design and a 16' wide door, nope. Probably be cheaper to build a bigger garage out back, mmmm, honey, I've got an idea
There is another alternative.... Thanks to the housing crash, the switch was free including the new shop.
The first is the house with the 8ft doors, the second is the replacement house with the brand new shop in the back with a 9ft door and 10ft ceiling...
Only problem(not) is...my Scamp won't fit in the attached garage on the new house!
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IMG_9375.jpg   DSCF0001.JPG  

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Old 12-17-2015, 01:28 PM   #17
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One of my tenants works for a garage door installation company and he has related to me that two of the bigger sources of rework jobs they get are from:


1. Those without sufficient knowledge, who should seek outside advice before attempting just about anything, and don't.


2. Those that did their own work and didn't consult with the authority that did count, the county building department.


Things may be different in other venues, but in the Golden State, building codes are usually enforced with vigor.



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Old 12-17-2015, 01:44 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Bob Miller View Post
One of my tenants works for a garage door installation company and he has related to me that two of the bigger sources of rework jobs they get are from:


1. Those without sufficient knowledge, who should seek outside advice before attempting just about anything, and don't.


2. Those that did their own work and didn't consult with the authority that did count, the county building department.


Things may be different in other venues, but in the Golden State, building codes are usually enforced with vigor.
Are you allowed to dress yourself or fix your own meals? Just imagine a kitchen knife in the wrong hands or a a loose shoe lace at the top of the stairs!
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Old 12-17-2015, 02:53 PM   #19
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WOW ! from a 26 foot Winnebago to a 13 foot Scamp that is a significant change. Welcome to the egg community. That is quite a drop in size but I'll bet there isn't much of a drop, if any, in your enjoyment in traveling. That enjoyment may actually go up as you will have more dollars to spend on the things that make travel fun and lots less being spent on fuel and camping spaces. Lee
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Old 12-17-2015, 07:04 PM   #20
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Name: Virgo
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Originally Posted by VocalVirgo View Post
I'm putting my order in for the 13' Scamp which I will take delivery of in June. Six months is a long time to wait, but at least I have a little time to plan out my full-time and adventures and travel spots. And of course, once on my way I won't stick to anything according to the plan, LOL. I just wanted to introduce myself and start poking around on the forums. I only have one real help question: Where is the link to the thread about installing a window air conditioner into the side closet on the Scamp 13. There must be one, LOL. I can't be the first person to have thought about this as an alternative to the factory roof air-conditioning unit!
Anyway, happy to be here and happy to see so many fiberglass RV owners.
After lots of research, a window a/c in the closet is too much work and result to make it worth it. Thanks everyone!
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