Hi; We are BobnCarol - Fiberglass RV


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Old 10-20-2016, 04:12 PM   #1
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Name: Bob
Trailer: Boler
Ontario
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Hi; We are BobnCarol

We live near Parry Sound, Ontario.
We are proud new owners of a 1974 Boler. Bought it from the original owner - complete with Boler key chain fob :-)
Towed it home, opened it and were dismayed to find all the cushions on the floor, the table dislodged - a total interior disaster.
I know we can add Velcro to the cushions, secure the table better, but what about the stuff in our fridge, etc.?
Do we have a problem or this just a bad storage situation?
Thanks for your help and we are glad to be a member of the Bole community!
Looking forward to a Bolerama near us next year...
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Old 10-20-2016, 04:24 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skyaki View Post
We live near Parry Sound, Ontario.
We are proud new owners of a 1974 Boler. Bought it from the original owner - complete with Boler key chain fob :-)
Towed it home, opened it and were dismayed to find all the cushions on the floor, the table dislodged - a total interior disaster.
I know we can add Velcro to the cushions, secure the table better, but what about the stuff in our fridge, etc.?
Do we have a problem or this just a bad storage situation?
Thanks for your help and we are glad to be a member of the Bole community!
Looking forward to a Bolerama near us next year...
Hi: skyaki... Sounds like the axle is pooched. The rubber suspension in the axle tube has gone hard. Call Paul Neumister in Sebringville On. 519 393 6410 or 393 6776 to order a replacement. He knows everything Boler.
Alf S. North shore of Lake Erie
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Old 10-20-2016, 04:27 PM   #3
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Trailer: Bigfoot 17 ft 1992
Quebec
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One thing is to check is whether the suspension is still working .After several years the suspension becomes stiffer and does not work, Torflex The type of suspension lasts 15 years. The trailer bounced
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Old 10-20-2016, 05:11 PM   #4
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Hi; We are BobnCarol

Yup! Rubber torsion axles have a typical lifespan of 15-20 years, and I'm pretty sure this one is way past its expiration. Get the new axle (be sure to add electric brakes while you're at it). Not cheap, but money well spent. Nothing falls, spills, pops open, or otherwise ends up out of place in my Scamp. I think you'll be amazed at the improvement.
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Old 10-21-2016, 03:03 AM   #5
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Name: Bob
Trailer: Boler
Ontario
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Many thanks for your replies. I will crawl under "Bubba" and see if I can figure out what I need. Is there an easy way to measure the angle?
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Old 10-21-2016, 11:01 AM   #6
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Name: Kathleen (Kai: ai as in wait)
Trailer: Amerigo FG-16 1973 "Peanut"
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Welcome to FGRV, BobnCarol,


Hoping you soon have your egg back in good shape,
get that "battening down the hatches" for travel figured out
(you will)
and have a great time camping!


BEST
Kai
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Old 10-21-2016, 11:13 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by skyaki View Post
...Is there an easy way to measure the angle?
The angle now is probably not what it was when the axle was new. Do take a look and see what you've got- leading or trailing, four bolt or five, brakes or not, approximate angle. I suspect it is the original axle, which was (I think) leading, 4 on 4", 10 degrees up angle, but it's possible it was changed sometime in the past.

This thread has some information from someone in the same place you are:
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...ler-67801.html
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Old 10-21-2016, 11:57 AM   #8
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Trailer: 13' 1973 Boler - tow/2017 Colorado Crew-Cab
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Welcome to the FGRV site BobnCarol (We may be Boler neighbours - Algonquin area, SE of P.Sound !!!). You'll find loads of help on this Forum. We also had our axle changed by the 'Northern Boler Guru' - Paul Neumeister in Sebringville. He was very friendly, helpful, full of further advice and reasonably priced. We added the brakes as suggested in a previous message; and are currently in the midst of further general renovating to our '73 Boler.
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Old 10-21-2016, 03:36 PM   #9
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Name: Bob
Trailer: Boler
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Today we did the "jack up the trailer" test. The tires moved up right in sync with the frame. Sure looks like our axle is pooched! We will certainly call Paul Neumeister and discuss our needs with him. Thanks to everybody on this great forum for pointing us in the right direction - we appreciate your help. And we do camp in Algonquin from time to time, of course, with a stop at Kawartha Dairies for a refreshing ice cream cone on the way home
BobnCarol
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Old 10-22-2016, 10:11 AM   #10
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Anyone regularly passing through Algonquin Park also knows about the great bakery (Henrietta's) in Dwight near the west entrance to "The Park' - goes exceptionally well with the 'Kawartha Ice-cream'. - not intended to be a commercial; but, further culinary 'advice' to dedicated campers.
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Old 10-23-2016, 02:13 PM   #11
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Trailer: Trillium 1300
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Stumbled across this today and was wondering if we need to look at the axle situation ourselves! Is it harmful if this is not addressed? Other than a more bouncy trailer?

If you have had this repaired how big is the bill? We own a 1300.

Thanks!
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Old 10-24-2016, 09:16 AM   #12
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Axle Replacement

Offered as a guide only - - We had the original axle (only) on our '73 Boler frame replaced in July 2015, for approx. $700. (Canadian). $595. for the new axle, equipped with new brake assembly and hubs; plus $100. (CDN), for installation, labour, taxes, etc. We had personally delivered and retrieved the prepared frame (with Boler 'shell' removed) to/from the shop (about 300 miles away).
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Old 10-25-2016, 04:17 AM   #13
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Thanks, Dave, for the more detailed info. I had not idea and now I wonder if this is what we need to do. Question - can this cause damage to the trailer if not addressed?
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Old 10-25-2016, 05:48 AM   #14
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The "jack it up'" test involves jacking up one side of the trailer and watching to see if the axle arms swing down as the trailer rises. Little or no movement means the axle is dead.

As to damage, I'd say it's better for the trailer to get it fixed. Everything takes a beating with a dead axle, and you may see damage over time- failed rivets, stress fractures in the fiberglass, etc.- maybe not today or tomorrow, but eventually.

Reported prices seem to vary quite a bit, so unless you have a good local recommendation, it'd be worth the trouble to get a couple of bids. A shop that builds and/or repairs utility trailers is often cheaper than an RV repair shop, and they probably have more experience with axles.
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Old 10-27-2016, 04:48 AM   #15
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Thanks again, Dave. One more question! Can this repair be done without the body being removed from the frame? I am determined to have our trailer in good shape and safe - trying to get most things done for next summer.
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Old 10-27-2016, 02:34 PM   #16
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Quote:
Can this repair be done without the body being removed from the frame?
Janice 'n Rick: Merely replacing the axle does not require removing the Boler shell from the trailer frame. However, we decided to sand-blast the frame, attach four 'angle iron' pieces for additional bolted support, and have the entire frame structure repainted, before remounting the shell. Others, have also welded in additional cross braces or reinforcing plates. If you are intending to remove the shell, in the future, perhaps removal, at this time, facilitates other renovations: perhaps rewiring, plumbing, or gas-lines ? - - - (just my '2-cents' worth, for consideration, IMHO !)
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Old 10-28-2016, 04:21 AM   #17
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Annnnnnd, one more thing!! I read somewhere on this forum it is important to place the jack in a specific area on the frame so as not to damage it?

Thank you for all this info!
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Old 10-28-2016, 06:12 AM   #18
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Annnnnnd, one more thing!! I read somewhere on this forum it is important to place the jack in a specific area on the frame so as not to damage it?
You don't want to jack from the corners. That puts a lot of twisting force on the frame which, in most eggs, is lightweight and not very rigid.

Best practice is to jack on the main frame rail behind the wheel and as close to the axle as practical.

I'd venture to say that goes for any travel trailer. Even those with stouter frames are designed to carry 90% of their weight going down the road on the center of the frame where the axle(s) are attached. Of course, consult the owner's manual if you have one.
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