jwcolby123 - Scamp 19', an oldie but a goodie

[jwcolby123]

Hi folks. I've owned two Scamps, a 16 foot (2011 I think) which I bought first, to live in as a camp host over by Raleigh while working days for IBM in RTP. I have two kids that came to visit and it was a tad small (for me) and so I bought a medium size tent which I used as a detached living room.

When the job ended I bought a 1995 (I think) 19' which of course has much more room simply due to a full size permanent bed. I ended up selling the 16' but kept the 19'. Years later I am now looking at living in it once I retire in a few years, and dragging it all around the US, probably with my little girl.

Because of it's age I need to do some refurbs.

1) Electrical. The original 12v did its job but isn't really up to the task of living in it. Going to rip the whole thing out and replacing it with LIPO and a couple of hundred of watts of solar.

I am comfortable with electronics and intend to build my own batteries from the 3.3v 100a cells.

2) Replace the Snap caps. AFAICT these are all original and many are just missing.

3) Caulk everything that uses caulk. Windows mostly but also access hatches.

4) Bumper mounted stability legs. Mine are rusted to the point where they don't really function any more.

5) Get the outside professionally cleaned and then a gelcoat put on it.

6) Propane systems tested. I actually used the stove and the heater years ago but not lately.

7) Oh yea, the back access hatch caught a strong wind as I was putting it up and ripped completely loose. Sigh.

She's an oldie but goodie. Which I can appreciate since that describes me as well.

[Borden]

Sounds like a good project

[Jon in AZ]

Caulk is not the primary seal on windows and hatches. I’d highly recommend removing them and replacing the butyl between the flange and the shell (after cleaning thoroughly). Then add a new bead of non-silicone(!) caulk. There are helpful YouTube videos if you search “re-seal RV window.”

If the snap caps have been missing for a long time, you may find the plastic washer base to which they attach is missing or damaged also. If the rivet itself is still solid, you can split a new washer base and slip it under the rivet head, then pop on the snap cap. Buy bases and caps from the same manufacturer. I discovered the caps from the local hardware store would not fit on the old washer bases from Scamp, even though they were nominally the same size.. I ordered from Scamp and voila!- perfect fit.

Redoing the gelcoat is quite expensive. Lots of folks have had good results on weathered gelcoat with a thorough cleaning and deoxidation, followed by multiple coats of Zep high glass floor wax. The wax will have to be redone every couple of years, but even if you add new gelcoat, you’ll still have to keep some kind of wax on it. Conventional fiberglass waxes last 6 months is so in full-time, uncovered use.

Lots of old threads on how to use the Zep (as well as alternatives).

[thrifty bill]

+10 forget caulk, remove all penetrations, clean, and reseal with butyl tape.

+10 Replacing gel coat = major expense. Get a bid from a local boating repair company.

While many don't like rivets (put me in that camp too), rivets have been proven to be very reliable and long lasting. So I wouldn't just replace them all to get rid of them.

[jwcolby123]

Originally Posted by Jon in AZ

Caulk is not the primary seal on windows and hatches. I’d highly recommend removing them and replacing the butyl between the flange and the shell (after cleaning thoroughly). Then add a new bead of non-silicone(!) caulk. There are helpful YouTube videos if you search “re-seal RV window.”

You are right. I've been looking for the info on pulling the windows out and replacing the butyl which of course is the right way to go.

Originally Posted by Jon in AZ

If the snap caps have been missing for a long time, you may find the plastic washer base to which they attach is missing or damaged also. If the rivet itself is still solid, you can split a new washer base and slip it under the rivet head, then pop on the snap cap. Buy bases and caps from the same manufacturer. I discovered the caps from the local hardware store would not fit on the old washer bases from Scamp, even though they were nominally the same size.. I ordered from Scamp and voila!- perfect fit.

I'm thinking of just replacing the rivets with marine grade stainless steel screws, washers and caulk. It looks lide many of the old rivets need to be replaced anyway so a permanent solution seems to be better.

Originally Posted by Jon in AZ

Redoing the gelcoat is quite expensive. Lots of folks have had good results on weathered gelcoat with a thorough cleaning and deoxidation, followed by multiple coats of Zep high glass floor wax. The wax will have to be redone every couple of years, but even if you add new gelcoat, you’ll still have to keep some kind of wax on it. Conventional fiberglass waxes last 6 months is so in full-time, uncovered use.

Lots of old threads on how to use the Zep (as well as alternatives).

I found a youtube video on just buffing the oxidation off, and just buffing it back to a shine. No gel coat involved. Cost up to $40 or so a linear foot. Worth it to me. The question is... before or after replacing the rivets.

[Jon in AZ]

Might want to review old threads on the pros and cons of aluminum rivets vs. SS bolts. Opinions are pretty split on that. What makes you think the rivets need replacing?

I don’t think the order matters much. I’d be inclined to service the rivets, then clean, buff, and wax, then snap caps last. I find I tend to knock a cap or two loose when I’m cleaning, especially if I’m using a power buffer.

[jwcolby123]

Originally Posted by Jon in AZ

Might want to review old threads on the pros and cons of aluminum rivets vs. SS bolts. Opinions are pretty split on that. What makes you think the rivets need replacing?

The thing is 25 years old, half the caps are missing, some of the rivets are missing, all the caps need replacing. It just makes sense to me to change them out. After that bolts are dead simple. And no snap caps aging and falling off.

Originally Posted by Jon in AZ

I don’t think the order matters much. I’d be inclined to service the rivets, then clean, buff, and wax, then snap caps last. I find I tend to knock a cap or two loose when I’m cleaning, especially if I’m using a power buffer.

Again, if I shoot out the rivets with bolts... no caps to knock off. Ever again.