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Old 04-20-2013, 05:27 AM   #21
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Name: deryk
Trailer: 2012 Parkliner 2010 V6 Nissan Frontier 4x4
New Jersey
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yeah, none of that nose in the air stuff here lol

Congrads for ya's!
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All that is gold does not glitter, Not all those who wander are lost; The old that is strong does not wither, Deep roots are not reached by the frost.... J.R.R. Tolkien
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Old 04-20-2013, 11:20 AM   #22
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Name: Francesca Knowles
Trailer: '78 Trillium 4500
Jefferson County, Washington State, U.S.A.
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She's a beaut!

Can't wait to see pics of the inside...

Francesca
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Old 04-22-2013, 06:56 PM   #23
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Name: Paul
Trailer: '07 Scamp 16' SD
Wisconsin
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Thanks for the towing tips. Those pics were taken right after picking up the trailer. The LBH the PO gave me some adjustment but I'm still about half a bubble up from level. The LDH prevented any sway towing the trailer home, but I guess I have a bit or research to do on a hitch that will drop the nose a bit more. That being said, once the tug and trailer are loaded up, maybe it'll drop it some more as well. I read some good info here on the forum regarding taking the trailer to a scale, so I'll do that once I get everything loaded as well.

Here are some more pics.
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Old 04-22-2013, 06:59 PM   #24
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Name: Francesca Knowles
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Who is that handsome feller in the mirror, Paul?

Francesca
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Old 04-22-2013, 07:00 PM   #25
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Name: Paul
Trailer: '07 Scamp 16' SD
Wisconsin
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A couple of the more interesting mods done by the PO that can be seen in the pics.

1: He had a local mattress firm make a custom mattress for the rear dinette.
2: He installed lights in the front closets that turn on when the doors are opened.
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Old 04-22-2013, 09:03 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glennco View Post
Thanks for the towing tips. Those pics were taken right after picking up the trailer. The LBH the PO gave me some adjustment but I'm still about half a bubble up from level. The LDH prevented any sway towing the trailer home, but I guess I have a bit or research to do on a hitch that will drop the nose a bit more. .
A simple solution is to just get a ball mount bar with a drop to it. You can even buy them at Walmart. Fill your propane tank, unhook the trailer, level it and then measure to the top of the ball. Then hook up the trailer to the tug and measure to the top of the ball again. The difference between the two measurements will give you a pretty good idea as to how much of a drop you need on the ball mount bar to get it level while towing.
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Old 04-22-2013, 09:21 PM   #27
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Name: Paul
Trailer: '07 Scamp 16' SD
Wisconsin
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Good idea carol thanks. Ironically, I'm already running this hitch which has an adjustable drop. http://www.reeseprod.com/content/pro...605&part=66024

The 1/2 bubble off was before adding the weight distribution arms. I'm sure they jacked it up a bit more.


Indeed Francesca that is me, hope I didn't give everyone a scare with that pic. Hah
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Old 04-22-2013, 09:30 PM   #28
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Name: kootenai girl
Trailer: 1976 Trillium 1300
British Columbia
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Looks like a really nice Scamp, congratulations.
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Old 04-23-2013, 09:15 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by glennco View Post
Good idea carol thanks. Ironically, I'm already running this hitch which has an adjustable drop. Weight Distribution - Reese

The 1/2 bubble off was before adding the weight distribution arms. I'm sure they jacked it up a bit more.
The need for a bit more drop with these smaller trailers is pretty common problem. Even my Outback needs a drop bar to get the noise of the trailer down. I actually had my main hitch changed out late last week and its a little different style than my old one & looks like the receiver or the ball mount may be a little bit higher than the old one. Need to hook it up today before I head down to the NOG meet on Thursday to make sure that hitch change didnt result in a change to the drop bar amounted needed. In my experience a level trailer or slightly down on the tongue will give a much more stable tow under all the road/weather conditions. Well worth the price of a new ball mount bar.
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