Mark in Colo. - Fiberglass RV
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Old 01-18-2024, 07:47 AM   #1
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Name: Mark
Trailer: Scamp
Colorado
Posts: 7
Mark in Colo.

Hello everyone, last weekend I purchased a 1976 scamp 13 ft. Although the bones seem very solid, it is going to need a lot of love. My plan is to update the appliances, electrical and plumbing while keeping as much of the vintage vibe as possible. I have begun the process of renovating, removing appliances, front bunk beds and generally looking for issues that need to be addressed. One glaring problem ( in my mind) is one of the previous owners decided to install a dog door. I assumes it will be difficult to find a replacement so I'm wondering if this could be repaired and if so is there replacement elephant skin for the inside? Any thoughts would be appreciated, thanks.
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Old 01-18-2024, 08:33 AM   #2
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Name: Jon
Trailer: 2008 Scamp 13 S1
Arizona
Posts: 11,960
Registry
You can repair the fiberglass, yes. Here’s a helpful link to get you started.
https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...ass-52498.html

Unfortunately, matching Ensolite is no longer made. My suggestion would be a patch from a hidden are inside a cabinet. Patch the patch with regular closed cell foam or Reflectix.
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Old 01-18-2024, 08:51 AM   #3
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Name: Mark
Trailer: Scamp
Colorado
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Thanks Jon
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Old 01-19-2024, 05:31 PM   #4
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Trailer: 2008 Scamp 13 S1
Arizona
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To add, you can replace the whole door from Scamp if it comes to it, but it's expensive (around $850 with tax and shipping), and it will come with rat fur, not elephant hide.

There's one for sale in Oklahoma for $349 in the "Scamp Travel Trailers" Facebook group. Brand new, never used, and appears to be the right size for your older 13'er. Here's a screenshot. You'll have to join the group to see the ad and message the seller if interested.
Click image for larger version

Name:	<a title=Scamp Door.jpg Views: 5 Size: 143.8 KB ID: 150803" style="margin: 2px" />
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Old 01-20-2024, 06:54 PM   #5
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Name: Mark
Trailer: Scamp
Colorado
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Thanks Jon I will check it out
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Old 01-24-2024, 06:46 PM   #6
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Name: Mike
Trailer: 1977 Scamp 13'
California
Posts: 36
On my '77 Scamp 13', there was vinyl on the inside of the door, not ensolite. It was in sad shape. Fnding the "elephant skin", or a decent match in some kind of vinyl, was fruitless. My solution was to laminate a birch veneer (which matched the birch doors I made for all the cupboards) to the inside of the door.
Just putting in a new door, aside from the expense, could open up a whole new can of worms, especially on an older trailer (nothing on my '77 has been "consistent"). Repairing a hole in fiberglass is not that difficult (the link from Jon in AZ is an excellent resource), and doing the veneer requires a bit of skill and some patience, but it's way cheaper than a new door.
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Old 01-25-2024, 06:31 AM   #7
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Name: Mark
Trailer: Scamp
Colorado
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Thanks NOD, I really want to keep the original door and was able to find a local person to make the repair. My door has vinyl also and never thought of using veneer. I do have some woodworking experience so I will look into that since I will be replacing the table and cabinet doors. I have gutted the trailer down to the floorboards, leaving the upper cabinets and Ensolite. The trailer is in surprisingly good shape and needed only a few minor repairs. I want to get started on updating the electric but I am having trouble wading through all the information online. I have wired trailer lights before and wired a few houses but I'm struggling with this, lol. I will be changing the lights to LED"s, adding a Maxx Fan and replacing the appliances, cooktop, fridge, furnace. At the moment I'm thinking 3 way fridge because I am familiar with them, but am open to suggestions. Any directions you could share would be appreciated. The Suburban furnace appears to be the original. L shaped with vent exiting over the wheel well and no fan. I'm not sure how to replace that either.
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Old 01-25-2024, 10:15 AM   #8
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Name: Mike
Trailer: 1977 Scamp 13'
California
Posts: 36
Recommendations: If youíre gutting the interior, take the time to replace the wiring - tail and marker lights, interior lights, especially the fluorescent light over the cooking counter. Making all the lights LED is definitely a good idea. It wasnít easy, but replacing that piece of Romex with some stranded wire for an LED over counter light and LED lights in the end of the upper cabinet was definitely worth it. I was able to create more storage space by moving the converter/ charger to the very front of the rear settee, and in that same space I could add a fuse panel and an inverter. I separated all of this with a piece of plywood to keep it all protected from whatever gets stored under that seat. Solar charge controller fits very nicely at the bottom of the tall cabinet by the door, on the floor inside the wheel well Replace that giant furnace with a Propex heater - smaller, more efficient, no condensation because the heated air comes and exhausts to the outside of the trailer. This opens up another storage space below the counter. I went with a 3-way Dometic fridge, but if I was doing it today, Iíd seriously look at 12V fridges - theyíve become considerably cheaper than they were, they arenít as finicky with respect to being level when using propane, they donít create heat you have to vent out of the trailer, and they are very efficient. This will definitely be my next upgrade.
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Old 01-25-2024, 10:40 AM   #9
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Name: Mark
Trailer: Scamp
Colorado
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Thanks again NOD. I have already ordered LED trailer lights and changing the solid wire for stranded should not be much of an issue. I like the idea of using some of the space under the dinette.
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Old 02-28-2024, 10:30 AM   #10
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Name: Mark
Trailer: Scamp
Colorado
Posts: 7
Hi all, the rear window in my 76 scamp 13 has one of the push bars broken. I would like to keep the window but I an't seem to fins a replacement . Any suggestions? I do have both pieces but don't think it could be repaired.
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Old 02-29-2024, 12:10 PM   #11
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Name: Mike
Trailer: 1977 Scamp 13'
California
Posts: 36
I had the same issue on my '77 Scamp. I searched far and wide for those windows to salvage the little handle pieces and came up empty. I was able to fabricate replacement pieces from aluminum, and use really small rivets (sorry, I don't recall the size) to secure them back to the window frame. You'll need two pieces - the long handle with the notches to hold the window open, and a small L bracket to attach the handle to the window. It's doable and came out pretty nice.
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Old 03-01-2024, 07:22 AM   #12
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Name: Mark
Trailer: Scamp
Colorado
Posts: 7
Thanks, I tried to upload a picture but oops. I do have both pieces and the bracket so it shouldn't be to difficult to fabricate.
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