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07-22-2016, 08:11 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Name: John
Trailer: Big Foot
Alberta
Posts: 20
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new member, got a big foot- fibreglass
just got a 79 big foot fibreglass 16ft.
kit table on front end L shaped couch at rear, kitchen and toilet.
So it's a little out dated but totally intact, frame solid.
Wondering since I'm totally ''Green'' when it comes to trailers ! what I should upgrade ? or what is there something that requires routine maintenance ?
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07-23-2016, 07:26 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1973 Compact Jr and 1980 Bigfoot 17 ft
Posts: 1,339
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The wheel bearings need to be repacked yearly. The tires should be replaced every 3-4 years even if they look okay. Check the furnace, frig , brakes, toilet, lights, water pump, etc. for function. If there is evidence of water leaks, the windows may need to be pulled and resealed. The cosmetics are up to you. We replaced cushions, flooring, painted ceiling, and added little touches. Best of luck with your new Bigfoot.
http://s293.photobucket.com/user/tom...tml?sort=3&o=0
__________________
1980 Bigfoot 17' & former owner of 1973 Compact Jr
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07-23-2016, 09:34 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Name: Walter
Trailer: 2017 Escape 17B
SW Virginia
Posts: 2,261
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You say 16'. Is that including the hitch or just the cabin?
If it's single axle, it's likely a 17' Gaucho model in the 1500 series.
In any case, congratulations on a great trailer.
You'll have a lot of fun with it.
There are a lot of upgrades worth considering.
My first was to replace the dropped axle with a straight one to give it a more practical ground clearance. That's not as pricey as you may think.
Feel free to PM me if you want to discuss other possibilities.
Last time I updated my list of mods it had 24 entries, major and minor, but none affecting the overall look.
Walt
__________________
Past owner of 1995 13' Casita, 1994 16' Casita, 2012 Parkliner, 2002 17' Bigfoot.
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07-23-2016, 10:26 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Name: Jack L
Trailer: Sold the Bigfoot 17-Looking for a new one
Washington
Posts: 1,562
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WaltP
You say 16'. Is that including the hitch or just the cabin?
If it's single axle, it's likely a 17' Gaucho model in the 1500 series.
In any case, congratulations on a great trailer.
You'll have a lot of fun with it.
There are a lot of upgrades worth considering.
My first was to replace the dropped axle with a straight one to give it a more practical ground clearance. That's not as pricey as you may think.
Feel free to PM me if you want to discuss other possibilities.
Last time I updated my list of mods it had 24 entries, major and minor, but none affecting the overall look.
Walt
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There is a photo of the trailer on John's other post. It is indeed a 17 gaucho. Looks like a nice trailer.
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07-24-2016, 12:57 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1988 Bigfoot Deluxe B19 19 ft / 2007 Nissan Frontier V6 NISMO 4x4
Posts: 456
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It is a darling Bigfoot trailer there, Tom - thanks for posting those great en situ photos! Has anyone had to do any upgrades on the electronic components and tank monitoring systems? Just curious. Happy Trails!
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07-24-2016, 09:02 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1973 Compact Jr and 1980 Bigfoot 17 ft
Posts: 1,339
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No tank monitors on our trailer and still have the original "Power Centre by Powertron". All the power centre does is change 120V to 12V. I use a Battery Tender Plus to recharge the battery. I have changed all the lights to LEDs. We never camp without electric hookups due to the need for air conditioning.
__________________
1980 Bigfoot 17' & former owner of 1973 Compact Jr
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07-24-2016, 09:40 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Name: Jack L
Trailer: Sold the Bigfoot 17-Looking for a new one
Washington
Posts: 1,562
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V'sGlassSleeper
It is a darling Bigfoot trailer there, Tom - thanks for posting those great en situ photos! Has anyone had to do any upgrades on the electronic components and tank monitoring systems? Just curious. Happy Trails!
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I replaced the original converter with a Progressive Dynamics upgrade. The original converter Bigfoot used in 1994 had a very poor reputation. The original tended to cook the battery instead of keeping it charged. When I removed the original converter the vinyl flooring underneath the converter was scorched . My tank monitoring system still works, but the black tank monitor is only accurate when the tank is thoroughly rinsed and flushed.
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07-24-2016, 10:50 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alberta Mac
Wondering since I'm totally ''Green'' when it comes to trailers ! what I should upgrade ? or what is there something that requires routine maintenance ?
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On any new to me trailer this is what I do right off the top and again each year:
1) Check the date on the tires - if more then 4 years old replace them - no matter how good they look.
2) Inspect and repack wheel bearings. Replace bearings if needed.
3) Check and adjust break pads - replace if needed.
4) Check dates on propane tanks - so your not surprised the first time you take it to refill and they refuse to refill it due to it being to old.
5) Check the state of the batteries. If there more than 4 years old or the previous owner ran them down below 12 on a regular bases they may not hold a charge well. Every used trailer I have purchased had battery issues.... even a trailer that had a new 2 pack 6 volt system installed just 2 months prior to my purchasing it. The previous owner had used it only once since install and it was pretty clear he had run them right down on that trip....probable more than once! He had told me he camped without power for all of the 2 week trip he did & most of it was in one spot. I know he had no solar. Buy yourself a 12V battery monitor to avoid doing the same.
6) Check that you have a propane, carbon monoxide and smoke detector and that they actually work.
7) Take a look at the roof vent seals & awning rail. If they look to be neglected or have loads of silicone or other sealers around them. Remove the vents and reseal them using marine butyl tape.
8) Check inside all your hatches looking for signs of any water leaks from windows above. Again remove and reinstall the windows using butyl tape if you see any signs of a possible leak.
9) Check the state of the weather seal around your door. Replace if necessary.
10) Do a serious flush out of the hot water tank. Replace the anode if it has one.
The first upgrade I would do if I routinely camp without power hook ups is replace all the light bulbs with LED bulbs. You will not be sorry!
If your going to do a lot of camping in spots with no power pick yourself up a solar system. Even a relatively small system such as what they sell at Canadian Tire is better than nothing. ;-)
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07-24-2016, 08:55 PM
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#9
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Junior Member
Name: John
Trailer: Big Foot
Alberta
Posts: 20
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[QUOTE=Carol H;599735]On any new to me trailer this is what I do right off the top and again each year:
Thanks Carol that is a real good detailed list !
I brought the big foot home friday eve, Sat. the wife and I went and did a camp out an hour from home in the mountains.
It set up quick, it is such a great experience to just enjoy the comforts we now have !
Now I just have to learn how to get the other stuff working ! ( fridge stove furnace oven and electrics - once I look at the batteries !
I found out it is a 1875lb trailer. no shower.
Here is the picture !
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07-24-2016, 10:02 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1988 Bigfoot Deluxe B19 19 ft / 2007 Nissan Frontier V6 NISMO 4x4
Posts: 456
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Thank you for that helpful information on the power converter and tank monitors, Jack - I will have to take a closer look at mine this fall.
Terrific list, Carol, thank you - once the weather cools down again here in Central Arizona, I will be working to get my TT roadworthy again and will also be referring to your list as a reminder.
Such great tips from our experienced members!
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07-24-2016, 10:04 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1988 Bigfoot Deluxe B19 19 ft / 2007 Nissan Frontier V6 NISMO 4x4
Posts: 456
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John,
Your Bigfoot is darling - I love the retro striped awning - lots of character!Cute photo with your wife showing it off proudly!
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07-24-2016, 11:03 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
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[QUOTE=Alberta Mac;599871]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Carol H
Now I just have to learn how to get the other stuff working ! ( fridge stove furnace oven and electrics - once I look at the batteries !
I found out it is a 1875lb trailer. no shower.
Here is the picture !
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GREAT looking Bigfoot. Congrats!
Did you put it on the scales for that weight? If so did you include your tongue weight. Bigfoot's tend to be a bit on the heavy side and I would expect it loaded for camping to weigh in at a min 3000lbs.... not uncommon for the older 17's to weigh in at as much as 3500lbs loaded.
In case you are unaware there is a Documents center on this forum (link is on the left) where you will find manuals for many of the stoves and fridges etc found in our trailers. Maybe even an actual manual for your trailer.
Happy camping!
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07-25-2016, 07:14 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1973 Compact Jr and 1980 Bigfoot 17 ft
Posts: 1,339
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You have a Standard model. like mine, no shower and 2 rear windows. Be mindful that the kitchen sink drains into the black water tank under the toilet and only holds 9 gallons. The true weight is about 2300 lbs. empty and the tongue weight is about 300 lbs. These numbers come from actually weighing mine, not what is posted inside the closet door.
http://s293.photobucket.com/user/tom...tml?sort=3&o=0
__________________
1980 Bigfoot 17' & former owner of 1973 Compact Jr
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08-13-2016, 08:17 PM
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#14
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Junior Member
Name: Bronx Bob
Trailer: Currently Shopping
California
Posts: 7
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axle
Quote:
Originally Posted by WaltP
You say 16'. Is that including the hitch or just the cabin?
If it's single axle, it's likely a 17' Gaucho model in the 1500 series.
In any case, congratulations on a great trailer.
You'll have a lot of fun with it.
There are a lot of upgrades worth considering.
My first was to replace the dropped axle with a straight one to give it a more practical ground clearance. That's not as pricey as you may think.
Feel free to PM me if you want to discuss other possibilities.
Last time I updated my list of mods it had 24 entries, major and minor, but none affecting the overall look.
Walt
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Tell me about replacing the axle please. We're looking at an older (don't know year yet) 13'. It's quite low. . . send email to gvroots@hotmail.com
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08-14-2016, 06:38 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Name: Walter
Trailer: 2017 Escape 17B
SW Virginia
Posts: 2,261
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronx Bob
Tell me about replacing the axle please. We're looking at an older (don't know year yet) 13'. It's quite low. . . send email to gvroots@hotmail.com
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It's a very simple job. The replacement. straight axle cost $200 from Dexter Axle and I had it done at a skilled truck garage so they could measure and arrange it with Dexter. The labor was only $100.
Walt
__________________
Past owner of 1995 13' Casita, 1994 16' Casita, 2012 Parkliner, 2002 17' Bigfoot.
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08-14-2016, 07:04 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Name: Jon
Trailer: 2008 Scamp 13 S1
Arizona
Posts: 12,111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronx Bob
Tell me about replacing the axle please. We're looking at an older (don't know year yet) 13'. It's quite low...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WaltP
It's a very simple job. The replacement. straight axle cost $200 from Dexter Axle...
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I believe the 13'ers have a rubber torsion axle, unlike the rest of the Bigfoot line, which uses leaf spring axle(s). And if it's a 13' Lil Bigfoot, I learned on a recent series of threads that the main frame rails are non-parallel, so some custom fabrication is required to install a replacement torsion axle. The original axle was built with special angled brackets just for the Bigfoot application and is no longer available.
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...xle-65267.html
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...ame-73815.html
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...now-75290.html
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08-14-2016, 09:20 AM
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#17
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Junior Member
Name: Bronx Bob
Trailer: Currently Shopping
California
Posts: 7
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Lift Kit
I was an amateur welder fabricator building a few hot rods, including sub frames. Without actually seeing the frame at this point, wonder if I could grind the original axle off and apply a "lift kit" and reinstall that axle.
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08-14-2016, 09:45 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Name: Jon
Trailer: 2008 Scamp 13 S1
Arizona
Posts: 12,111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronx Bob
I was an amateur welder fabricator building a few hot rods, including sub frames. Without actually seeing the frame at this point, wonder if I could grind the original axle off and apply a "lift kit" and reinstall that axle.
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Two things to check out. First, some original torsion axle installations were welded on. Cutting it off often generates so much heat that the rubber inside is compromised. Second, if it is the original axle, it may not be good any more. The rubber hardens over time and the axle arms lose their flexibility. Conventional wisdom puts the lifespan of a rubber torsion axle at 15-20 years. If the axle arms still move up and down when you put a jack on the frame, it may have some life left.
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08-14-2016, 01:39 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Name: Ellpea
Trailer: 1988 Lil Bigfoot and 2006 Bigfoot 17.5 Gaucho
CA
Posts: 1,409
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon in AZ
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Yes, unfortunately, due to the frame design, it is more complicated to get the axle done on a 13' Bigfoot. And, apparently, it's more expensive.
One wonders what Bigfoot was thinking when they chose this frame. I kind of wonder if they got a huge close out from some boat trailer manufacturer!
__________________
Best,
EllPea in CA
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