New member here

[Sergey P]

Hi, I am Sergey and new to this forum. I have never had a camper before and have zero experience with towing. I plan to buy a Helio O2 camper (1500lb dry weight) and tow it with my Rav4 (V6, FWD, max tow weight 2000lb). I hope this is the right place to ask my first question: should I worry about a sway when towing in this configuration? The camper height is 90in that is relatively high and will be subjected to noticeable side loads (from wind or passing big trucks). Thank you.

[David Tilston]

Sergey,

Sway is easily controlled by properly loading your trailer and using trailer brakes, assuming you have a brake controller. You should have at least 10% of the trailer weigh on the tongue and as little weight behind the axle as possible. If sway does occur, use your brake controller to manually activate the trailer brakes. This will stop the swaying quite quickly.

I have a theory about trailer sway. I sell instrumentation. One of the products I sell is called a vortex flow meter. It detects flow by detecting alternating vortices that are shed off a bluff body in the flow stream. This causes an alternating force, from side to side that is directly proportional to flow velocity. Google “karman vortex street” and you will see what I mean.

My theory is that the front of the trailer acts as the bluff body and sets up the initial oscillations. This is amplified by the speed of the trailer and poor loading.

When I was younger and stupider, I loaded a Trillium 4500 very wrong, (see picture). I had a hitch receiver on the back and picked up some parts mid travel. When we got on the road I felt the trailer pulling up on the hitch. Not good. I stopped at a closed truck weigh scale and sure enough, I had about 20lbs of weight on the tongue. But no sway, even though I had the worst possible trailer load. Why? My conclusion is that the van I was driving prevented air flow from impacting the front of the trailer and when it did swing out of line with the van. The air flow down the side pushed the trailer back into the wind shadow of the van. That’s my story and I’m sticking to it.

[Jon in AZ]

Welcome, Sergey!

The 2000# tow rating tells me your RAV4 V6 lacks the factory tow prep package. Based on my experience towing a similar-sized Scamp 13 with a Sienna V6 without the package and the same 2000# rating, I’d suggest adding an auxiliary ATF cooler. On our maiden trip with the trailer loaded to around 1750# we hit some pretty severe towing conditions (combination of temperature, grade, and a headwind) that overheated the transmission. Limp mode saved it, but sitting on the side of a busy interstate waiting for it to cool down was not an event I’d care to repeat.

Sway bar... It’s a good thing to have, but not absolutely required. Important thing is it should not be used to correct an improperly loaded trailer with a tendency to wander. Get the trailer set up correctly with around 12% tongue weight and test drive it to make sure it tracks well. Then hook up a sway bar if desired for an extra measure of safety in a sudden crosswind, passing truck (tour busses are the worst), or emergency avoidance maneuver.

Will you have brakes on the trailer and a brake controller in the vehicle?

Best wishes getting started!

[Sergey P]

Thank you for your quick responses. I realize that my Rav4 will be at the limit of its towing capacity. The camper has electric brakes and I will need to install new wiring and a brake controller as my car does not have a tow package. As to a transmission cooler, should I first monitor the temperature when towing and then decide about additional cooling?

[Jon in AZ]

Originally Posted by Sergey P

As to a transmission cooler, should I first monitor the temperature when towing and then decide about additional cooling?

You could do that, yes. You have to buy a device that plugs into the OBDII port. The dashboard temperature gauge monitors engine coolant temperature and never budged during our transmission overheating event.

Ours had the older 3.0L/4 sp. auto, which ran unlocked in lower gears. Guessing yours has the 3.5L and likely a newer transmission, so your results may vary.