New Trillium Owner in Seattle! - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-09-2021, 11:07 AM   #21
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Name: Anna
Trailer: Trillium
Washington
Posts: 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by david tilston View Post
anna,

please see my responses in red below.

there are a few things that kill a fridge, but usually fridges are repairable. Your fridge is an rm211. They are very common in the rv world, if it is dead, it will not be difficult, or expensive, to find a replacement. I have two of them as spares.
The first test is to plug it in, and set it to run on ac. Wait 24hrs and see if there is frost in the freezer. There are manuals in the document center:
https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/downloads.php


the furnace is much simpler than the fridge. Unless it has rust holes in the combustion chamber, it can be fixed.

that is the main ac power breaker for your trailer. That is where trillium would have installed the converter. If you want a converter, that is where i would install it. Can you provide the dimension from the bottom of the furnace to the floor?

no, that is just a breaker.


thanks, i wondered.


trilliums have about the simplest plumbing possible. The only tank is the fresh water tank. No black, (poop) or grey (soapy water) tanks. Grey water goes directly out of the trailer. If you have a garden hose fitting at the end of you sink drain, that is meant to connect to a stub hose that goes to an external drain tank. It looks like you have a water pump from the fresh water tank. I see what looks like an unconnected barb fitting under it. What is that? There should be pressure switch or a manual switch that activates this pump. The pressure switch could be in the pump itself. How does it operate?


those look original to me. They may look fine, however, when you pull them off, i would not be surprised if half of them have already failed. Another picture request. Could you please take pictures of the bottom of your trailer? Specifically, where the nuts are that go on the end of those bolts, and two general over all pictures from the front and back of the trailer. I am interested in the axle as well. Also a low angle one, from the side, of the first bend in the frame, at the front. I am looking for, "fish" plates that should be welded here. Trillium had a recall about this.


at over $100/ hr., if you are on any kind of a budget, i recommend reserving the rv mechanic for things you simply can't do. Things like changing the axle. Wiring and plumbing are.... Easy? In fact, i recommend completely re-wiring the trailer. You can find the wiring diagram here:
https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...do=file&id=134
get yourself a lot of #12 white and black wire, (like 100', or more) as well as about 25' each of #14 yellow,(optional/not used) blue, red, brown, green, and white for the exterior lights. You may need extra of the green and white. There are many wire splicing methods. I am a bit of a nut here, so take what i say with a grain of salt. I like using a bare butt splice crimp, (actually, i strip an insulated crimp) followed by solder, (you do have a soldering iron, right?). Before either of these i slide on a piece of heat shrink tubing. After i solder, i apply a liberal amount of dielectric grease, then shrink the heat shrink over the grease. Most people just use an insulated butt splice crimp. That will work too, but not for another 40 years. Do not use scotch lock splices



get them to quote you a new 2500# axle, with brakes and a new 2" coupler, (trailer hitch). If your stabilizer jacks need to be replaced, then get them to quote that as well.


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Old 09-09-2021, 11:26 AM   #22
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Name: bill
Trailer: 2013 Escape 19; 1977 Trillium 1300
The Mountains of North Carolina
Posts: 4,014
Registry
David knows Trilliums. I have learned a lot from him! One note I would make on the original fridge. Before firing it up on 120V AC, inspect the pigtail (wire from fridge to outlet). Mine was badly degraded, even got a nice "JOLT" off of it, ok, not so nice. I replaced that pigtail, pretty straight forward.

On the frame, I took a wire brush on a drill, knocked off most of the rust, then treated with rust converter and painted it. Note, these frames tend to rot from the inside out.

I will almost guarantee your body to frame bolts are rotten. What you can see will look OK. The fact one is missing is a sign it rusted out. Put a wrench on one that is easiest to get to, and start turning. If you feel a "snap" in about half a turn, its rotten and just broke. Save the square plates on the inside of the trailer and replace the bolts.


Randy Bishop and David Tilston have both owned MANY vintage Trilliums, and have posted many helpful threads. I love Trilliums, highly recommend them over other vintage brands. But they do have some well documented weaknesses that are worth addressing.
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Old 09-09-2021, 02:13 PM   #23
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Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978 (2), 1300 - 1977, 1973, and a 1972
Alberta
Posts: 6,382
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by babyblue View Post
Here are more, whatís the tube that runs out the bottom?
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In regards to your question, given the location, my guess is that tube is the drain for the fresh water tank. Is you water tank on that side? Trillium has been inconsistent about the side that they install the tank on. The screw holes around it concern me slightly. Though water typically doesn't flow up. I would consider patching them, after you pull the floor tiles. I think you may find a few surprises when you do that.

If your stabilizer jacks work, I would just sand the rust off and paint them. It is always difficult to paint parts that are meant to slide and move. On the other hand new ones are not too expensive.

This appears to be another nail. Or, is it just crud?
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What, and where is this?
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It looks like this:
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is the low pressure propane line running through the frame, and the trailer plug connection, running under the frame, past 3? holes. I would disconnect the cable inside the trailer and pull it out. If the +12VDC and -12VDC wires are not #10 copper, (the blue brake wire should be #12 as well) I would replace the cable with something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/7-Way-Trailer.../dp/B07582MFBD
Then run it through the frame cross member, after drilling the hole to an appropriate size, use a file to make the hole smooth with rounded edges, then line the hole with a rubber grommet.

More observations:
Your axle appears to sag, not good. In my opinion, the best test is to get someone heavy to get in the trailer, over the axle, and bounced up and down. Try to do so at the natural frequency that the trailer wants to bounce. Have someone, outside the trailer, watch the wheels. Is all the bounce from the tires, or are the wheels, (axle) moving as well? I suspect that your wheels, (axle) will not move at all. I have said it before, but I think it is worth while to get a new axle with trailer brakes.

The frame reinforcements, on your trailer, for the recall, are very substantial. That said, I like how Trillium did it, with the ends tapering, (like a fish) so the stress is not concentrated at any one point. I am sure yours are fine though.

As expected your mounting bolts run through the frame. I would ask your welding shop to also quote you some beefy angle iron tabs that are drilled for bolts and welded to the frame, between the frame rails. These should be in line with where the current bolts are. It would also be a good idea for them to weld the orignal holes closed. There are a couple of advantages to this. The frame will be slightly stronger and the bolt length will be reduced. This would also mean that you should close the old holes in the bottom of the coach, and drill new ones where the tabs are welded.

Actually, before they do any work, have them evaluate the condition of the frame. It is probably fine, but it has more rust than I am used to seeing. In Alberta, we don't use much road salt, and get less precipitation. No point in spending money if you need a new frame. Which I might be able to give you a good deal on however shipping would be problmatic. I have one that is solid, but shares the same issues that yours does, (mounting holes, needs axle, has no jacks...)
Or there is this:
https://www.fiberglassclassifieds.co...ler-frame-1993
But it also has the same mounting holes and a rust perforation. It also looks like it had a catastrophic failure. Maybe not.

Lastly it looks like I had it wrong, there are two mounting bolts in each of the dinette seats, and only two in the front gaucho. My bad. Trillium 4500's have four in the gaucho, and two each in the dinette seats.
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Old 09-09-2021, 02:16 PM   #24
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Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978 (2), 1300 - 1977, 1973, and a 1972
Alberta
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thrifty bill View Post
David knows Trilliums.
Bill, I have never said so before, but thanks for your consistent vote of confidence. I try to live up to your praise.
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Old 09-09-2021, 03:24 PM   #25
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Name: bill
Trailer: 2013 Escape 19; 1977 Trillium 1300
The Mountains of North Carolina
Posts: 4,014
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Fridge outlet and wire pigtail. Neither very inspiring!

Yes, I rely on the knowledge of others before me, so David, yours is appreciated!

As an engineer, we were taught whenever we saw a good idea, we were expected to use it! Implementing good ideas tended to be a much more valuable skill than coming up with an idea.
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Check my Trillium Project Page: https://www.facebook.com/Bills-1977-...dmin_todo_tour
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Old 09-09-2021, 03:53 PM   #26
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Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978 (2), 1300 - 1977, 1973, and a 1972
Alberta
Posts: 6,382
Registry
Bill, It looks like a good deal of magic smoke was released from your fridge. You are lucky that it still works.

I can't figure out what happened to that outlet. Is it goobered up, or ground down?
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Old 09-09-2021, 04:00 PM   #27
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Name: E. Jane
Trailer: Trillium 1980 1300 Deluxe
Massachusetts
Posts: 34
I am a middle namer, and go by Jane. My sister's fault. She was 4 when I was born and wanted my name to be Jane. It is a pain...But I just don't feel like an Elizabeth!
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Old 09-09-2021, 04:31 PM   #28
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Name: Anna
Trailer: Trillium
Washington
Posts: 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Tilston View Post
Attachment 143183

In regards to your question, given the location, my guess is that tube is the drain for the fresh water tank. Is you water tank on that side? Trillium has been inconsistent about the side that they install the tank on. The screw holes around it concern me slightly. Though water typically doesn't flow up. I would consider patching them, after you pull the floor tiles. I think you may find a few surprises when you do that.



If your stabilizer jacks work, I would just sand the rust off and paint them. It is always difficult to paint parts that are meant to slide and move. On the other hand new ones are not too expensive.



This appears to be another nail. Or, is it just crud?

Attachment 143180



What, and where is this?

Attachment 143181



It looks like this:

Attachment 143182

is the low pressure propane line running through the frame, and the trailer plug connection, running under the frame, past 3? holes. I would disconnect the cable inside the trailer and pull it out. If the +12VDC and -12VDC wires are not #10 copper, (the blue brake wire should be #12 as well) I would replace the cable with something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/7-Way-Trailer.../dp/B07582MFBD

Then run it through the frame cross member, after drilling the hole to an appropriate size, use a file to make the hole smooth with rounded edges, then line the hole with a rubber grommet.



More observations:

Your axle appears to sag, not good. In my opinion, the best test is to get someone heavy to get in the trailer, over the axle, and bounced up and down. Try to do so at the natural frequency that the trailer wants to bounce. Have someone, outside the trailer, watch the wheels. Is all the bounce from the tires, or are the wheels, (axle) moving as well? I suspect that your wheels, (axle) will not move at all. I have said it before, but I think it is worth while to get a new axle with trailer brakes.



The frame reinforcements, on your trailer, for the recall, are very substantial. That said, I like how Trillium did it, with the ends tapering, (like a fish) so the stress is not concentrated at any one point. I am sure yours are fine though.



As expected your mounting bolts run through the frame. I would ask your welding shop to also quote you some beefy angle iron tabs that are drilled for bolts and welded to the frame, between the frame rails. These should be in line with where the current bolts are. It would also be a good idea for them to weld the orignal holes closed. There are a couple of advantages to this. The frame will be slightly stronger and the bolt length will be reduced. This would also mean that you should close the old holes in the bottom of the coach, and drill new ones where the tabs are welded.



Actually, before they do any work, have them evaluate the condition of the frame. It is probably fine, but it has more rust than I am used to seeing. In Alberta, we don't use much road salt, and get less precipitation. No point in spending money if you need a new frame. Which I might be able to give you a good deal on however shipping would be problmatic. I have one that is solid, but shares the same issues that yours does, (mounting holes, needs axle, has no jacks...)

Or there is this:

https://www.fiberglassclassifieds.co...ler-frame-1993

But it also has the same mounting holes and a rust perforation. It also looks like it had a catastrophic failure. Maybe not.



Lastly it looks like I had it wrong, there are two mounting bolts in each of the dinette seats, and only two in the front gaucho. My bad. Trillium 4500's have four in the gaucho, and two each in the dinette seats.


The nails that poke through near the frame appear to be coming out from inside the back cabinets. Not sure what purpose they serveÖ Click image for larger version

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There is also a few more nails poking through slightly from the wood which is holding up the water tank, on the curb side, or metal holding the watrr tank In płace. Iím going to Remote this tank!. Seems like they ran out of the shorter nails and just used the long one for one spot. Very strange!Click image for larger version

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Old 09-09-2021, 04:58 PM   #29
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Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978 (2), 1300 - 1977, 1973, and a 1972
Alberta
Posts: 6,382
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by babyblue View Post
The nails that poke through near the frame appear to be coming out from inside the back cabinets. Not sure what purpose they serveÖ [/ATTACH]

There is also a few more nails poking through slightly from the wood which is holding up the water tank, on the curb side, or metal holding the watrr tank In płace. Iím going to Remote this tank!. Seems like they ran out of the shorter nails and just used the long one for one spot. Very strange!]
Agreed, very strange. They wont affect any thing, but I would pull them, and patch the holes. You could just fill the holes with some 2 part epoxy glue.

Did you mean you are going to remove the water tank? Personally, I think that is a good idea. The first time I saw, what should be clear fresh water lines, that were actually completely black, I decided that I was not going to drink out of that. Bottled water works for me.
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Old 09-09-2021, 05:15 PM   #30
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Name: Anna
Trailer: Trillium
Washington
Posts: 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Tilston View Post
Did you mean you are going to remove the water tank? Personally, I think that is a good idea. The first time I saw, what should be clear fresh water lines, that were actually completely black, I decided that I was not going to drink out of that. Bottled water works for me.


Yeah! Seems too high maintenance for me and I would rather have the storage! Will replace the city water line and just bring water.

I greatly appreciate all your insights!! This has given me so much food for thought and things to start with.

My first project will be to clean the rust off and paint the hub caps, then get new tires, as they are old, worn, and almost flat. Then I can get started on the internal stuff and get the frame and all inspected.

Fortunately for me, my husband is a carpenter and he has lots of tools to upgrade some initial things like bolts, patch up holes, wiring, etc.

Thanks again!!
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Old 09-09-2021, 06:07 PM   #31
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Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978 (2), 1300 - 1977, 1973, and a 1972
Alberta
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babyblue View Post
Yeah! Seems too high maintenance for me and I would rather have the storage! Will replace the city water line and just bring water.

I greatly appreciate all your insights!! This has given me so much food for thought and things to start with.

My first project will be to clean the rust off and paint the hub caps, then get new tires, as they are old, worn, and almost flat. Then I can get started on the internal stuff and get the frame and all inspected.

Fortunately for me, my husband is a carpenter and he has lots of tools to upgrade some initial things like bolts, patch up holes, wiring, etc.

Thanks again!!
One more idea: When you replace the axle. You will have room for 14" tires. I drive an old 1997 Ford Ranger. The 14" aluminum rims that fit this truck also fit my Trillium, sort of. I think on the Ford the rims are hub centered, and the middle hole is a bit small. I used a Dremel, with a sanding drum to open it up, just a bit.

These rims are fairly common down at your local wrecker.

I too need a new axle. I will look into getting the hub on the new axle machined down to fit the Ford rims, unmodified.
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Old 09-09-2021, 11:23 PM   #32
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Name: Anna
Trailer: Trillium
Washington
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Originally Posted by thrifty bill View Post
David knows Trilliums. I have learned a lot from him! One note I would make on the original fridge. Before firing it up on 120V AC, inspect the pigtail (wire from fridge to outlet). Mine was badly degraded, even got a nice "JOLT" off of it, ok, not so nice. I replaced that pigtail, pretty straight forward.

On the frame, I took a wire brush on a drill, knocked off most of the rust, then treated with rust converter and painted it. Note, these frames tend to rot from the inside out.

I will almost guarantee your body to frame bolts are rotten. What you can see will look OK. The fact one is missing is a sign it rusted out. Put a wrench on one that is easiest to get to, and start turning. If you feel a "snap" in about half a turn, its rotten and just broke. Save the square plates on the inside of the trailer and replace the bolts.


Randy Bishop and David Tilston have both owned MANY vintage Trilliums, and have posted many helpful threads. I love Trilliums, highly recommend them over other vintage brands. But they do have some well documented weaknesses that are worth addressing.


Thank you! Will check fridge this week. We need to get access behind the fridge, remove it and see how itís all connected. Right now the shore power cord is not visible from the output so we need to figure out whatís happening down there!
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Old 09-10-2021, 11:08 AM   #33
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Name: bill
Trailer: 2013 Escape 19; 1977 Trillium 1300
The Mountains of North Carolina
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Tilston View Post
Bill, It looks like a good deal of magic smoke was released from your fridge. You are lucky that it still works.

I can't figure out what happened to that outlet. Is it goobered up, or ground down?
The gunk around the outlet is some type of sealer/caulk. I assumed it was original. The outlet itself has some scorch marks.
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Old 09-15-2021, 10:23 AM   #34
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Name: Eric
Trailer: Chalet Arrowhead
California
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Originally Posted by babyblue View Post
I dragged my mom to buy a Boler in Canada which ended up being a total bust.

No room in the tow vehicle?
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Old 09-15-2021, 12:09 PM   #35
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Name: Jessica
Trailer: Boler
Washington
Posts: 2
Welcome! Iím not a trillium owner but we are Boler owners also in Seattle!
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Old 09-15-2021, 01:21 PM   #36
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Name: Tom
Trailer: Amerigo
Wisconsin
Posts: 50
The problem with that front hatch is it almost makes it a trailer you pull on sunny days only.
Those windows during rain and driving don't keep out outside very well.
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Old 09-15-2021, 03:02 PM   #37
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Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978 (2), 1300 - 1977, 1973, and a 1972
Alberta
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Originally Posted by bigangelman View Post
The problem with that front hatch is it almost makes it a trailer you pull on sunny days only.
Those windows during rain and driving don't keep out outside very well.
Tom, There are several Trilliums with the escape hatch on the front. If it was a problem, I would have expected to see posts on the subject. In the ten years that I have been on this site, I don't recall any such posts.

It may be that the rock guard deflects enough wind to prevent leaks, but many Trilliums are missing those as well. Perhaps there are no Trilliums that both have a front escape hatch, and a missing rock guard.

Have you experienced such problems?
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Old 09-15-2021, 03:11 PM   #38
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Name: Anna
Trailer: Trillium
Washington
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No room in the tow vehicle?


It was just in much worse condition than I saw on the video tour and photos. I pulled up and from the car I knew it wasnít the one. Very disappointing.
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Old 09-15-2021, 03:12 PM   #39
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Trailer: Trillium
Washington
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Originally Posted by Jessicadolph View Post
Welcome! Iím not a trillium owner but we are Boler owners also in Seattle!


Yeay! Excited to be part of the vintage trailer Seattle crew!
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Old 09-15-2021, 03:14 PM   #40
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Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978 (2), 1300 - 1977, 1973, and a 1972
Alberta
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It was just in much worse condition than I saw on the video tour and photos. I pulled up and from the car I knew it wasn’t the one. Very disappointing.
I'm sorry to explain the joke, (I have a rule, with my kids, that any joke that requires explaining is not funny) but I think he was referring to you having, "dragged" your mom to buy a Boler.
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