New Trillium Owner in Seattle! - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-08-2021, 11:34 AM   #1
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Name: Anna
Trailer: Trillium
Washington
Posts: 30
New Trillium Owner in Seattle!

We are a family excited to start new adventures with our 1977 Trillium! I dragged my mom to buy a Boler in Canada which ended up being a total bust. A long drive for lunch, beer, and chocolate!

When we got back we found our camper 1.5 miles from home. We cannot wait to refresh and preserve this beauty!

Iím sure we will have lots of questions down the road and look forward to being a part of the community.
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Old 09-08-2021, 11:37 AM   #2
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Name: bill
Trailer: 2013 Escape 19; 1977 Trillium 1300
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I drove to CO from NC for a Trillium, that was totally, completely misrepresented. I even spent time with the seller, telling them EXACTLY what I was going to inspect. Within two minutes, I knew it was junk and walked away.

I like road trips anyway!
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Old 09-08-2021, 11:47 AM   #3
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Name: Anna
Trailer: Trillium
Washington
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Originally Posted by thrifty bill View Post
I drove to CO from NC for a Trillium, that was totally, completely misrepresented. I even spent time with the seller, telling them EXACTLY what I was going to inspect. Within two minutes, I knew it was junk and walked away.

I like road trips anyway!


Haha! Yea, I had done an extensive video tour, they held it for me, I took cash, got insurance, ran through all the hoops, and researched importing rules, etc. As soon as we pulled up in the driveway, I knew it wasnít the one. But was a lovely day spent with my mom regardless.
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Old 09-08-2021, 12:30 PM   #4
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Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978 (2), 1300 - 1977, 1973, and a 1972
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Anna, I may be biased, (actually, totally biased) but I think you are better off with a Trillium anyway.
I love the picture of your munchkins hanging out the escape hatch. It reminded me of one of my early pictures from when I got my first Trillium, (I have now had six).
Click image for larger version

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This brings me to the fact that your escape hatch is on the front of your trailer. I have had this conversation a few times recently. I have seen this set up before: https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...tml#post824626

I think it makes more sense, as an escape hatch, to have it on the rear window. As it is, you have two exits a few feet apart. On the back window, it would provide exits at either end of the trailer. This is not difficult to change, and you will probably be removing and resealing the windows in the near future.

Please post more pictures of your lovely trailer. What is the inside color? The green trailers usually have either a green interior, or a yellow one. I have a green and yellow version, serial number 13-609: https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/registry/2260/
I call it Cantaloupe. It still needs lots of work.

I also encourage you to take a look that the Trillium serial number thread: https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...tml#post680419
It has been way too long since I updated it, but it is still worth a look. The whole point of this thread was to determine the actual age of Cantaloupe. The guy who sold it to me said it was a 1979. I knew that was wrong. I have it listed as a 1973, but it could be 1972.
There is a small sticker beside the regulator on the front of your trailer. Does it look something like this?
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These stickers turned out to be like a Rosetta stone for dating Trillium trailers. If yours has one, it would be the most recent one I have seen. The last one on the list is from May 1975. However I have never seen one in that location before. They are usually above the red sticker. Please advise.
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Old 09-08-2021, 01:01 PM   #5
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Name: Anna
Trailer: Trillium
Washington
Posts: 30
New Trillium Owner in Seattle!

Thank you! I really love the Trillium for the additional windows and full fiberglass floor compared to Boler, so think it worked out for the best. In terms of the stickers, the one on front is just about the voltage, pictured below.

There does appear to be a silver sticker similar to the one you showed on the curb side near door by the other stickers. However, sadly it is worn apart from a number on the bottom left. There is also this medal plaque there. See below! Does this help you? Click image for larger version

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Old 09-08-2021, 01:21 PM   #6
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Name: Anna
Trailer: Trillium
Washington
Posts: 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Tilston View Post
Anna, I may be biased, (actually, totally biased) but I think you are better off with a Trillium anyway.
I love the picture of your munchkins hanging out the escape hatch. It reminded me of one of my early pictures from when I got my first Trillium, (I have now had six).
Attachment 143085

This brings me to the fact that your escape hatch is on the front of your trailer. I have had this conversation a few times recently. I have seen this set up before: https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...tml#post824626

I think it makes more sense, as an escape hatch, to have it on the rear window. As it is, you have two exits a few feet apart. On the back window, it would provide exits at either end of the trailer. This is not difficult to change, and you will probably be removing and resealing the windows in the near future.

Please post more pictures of your lovely trailer. What is the inside color? The green trailers usually have either a green interior, or a yellow one. I have a green and yellow version, serial number 13-609: https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/registry/2260/
I call it Cantaloupe. It still needs lots of work.

I also encourage you to take a look that the Trillium serial number thread: https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...tml#post680419
It has been way too long since I updated it, but it is still worth a look. The whole point of this thread was to determine the actual age of Cantaloupe. The guy who sold it to me said it was a 1979. I knew that was wrong. I have it listed as a 1973, but it could be 1972.
There is a small sticker beside the regulator on the front of your trailer. Does it look something like this?
Attachment 143086

These stickers turned out to be like a Rosetta stone for dating Trillium trailers. If yours has one, it would be the most recent one I have seen. The last one on the list is from May 1975. However I have never seen one in that location before. They are usually above the red sticker. Please advise.


Hi!

I posted some outside stickers above, but here are some interior ones. Itís green, with the floral orange cushions. The previous owner actually drove to Canada to get these original cushions as the ones that were with this Trillium were reupholstered in an ugly upgrade.

Our plans are to clean her up, replace the cabinet doors since they are pealing, and maybe paint the ensolite to brighten it back up if the cleaning doesnít do it to start with. I think we will keep the green, but maybe add some modernizing touching of color to make her pop while preserving the seventies vibe. We will also remove the flooring to the bare fiberglass floor for now.Click image for larger version

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Old 09-08-2021, 01:36 PM   #7
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Name: Anna
Trailer: Trillium
Washington
Posts: 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Tilston View Post
Anna, I may be biased, (actually, totally biased) but I think you are better off with a Trillium anyway.
I love the picture of your munchkins hanging out the escape hatch. It reminded me of one of my early pictures from when I got my first Trillium, (I have now had six).

This brings me to the fact that your escape hatch is on the front of your trailer. I have had this conversation a few times recently. I have seen this set up before: https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...tml#post824626

I think it makes more sense, as an escape hatch, to have it on the rear window. As it is, you have two exits a few feet apart. On the back window, it would provide exits at either end of the trailer. This is not difficult to change, and you will probably be removing and resealing the windows in the near future.

Please post more pictures of your lovely trailer. What is the inside color? The green trailers usually have either a green interior, or a yellow one. I have a green and yellow version, serial number 13-609: https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/registry/2260/
I call it Cantaloupe. It still needs lots of work.

I also encourage you to take a look that the Trillium serial number thread: https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...tml#post680419
It has been way too long since I updated it, but it is still worth a look. The whole point of this thread was to determine the actual age of Cantaloupe. The guy who sold it to me said it was a 1979. I knew that was wrong. I have it listed as a 1973, but it could be 1972.
There is a small sticker beside the regulator on the front of your trailer. Does it look something like this?

These stickers turned out to be like a Rosetta stone for dating Trillium trailers. If yours has one, it would be the most recent one I have seen. The last one on the list is from May 1975. However I have never seen one in that location before. They are usually above the red sticker. Please advise.


Also thanks for the tip about the escape hatch! Will make that swap when we redo the window seals!
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Old 09-08-2021, 03:02 PM   #8
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Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978 (2), 1300 - 1977, 1973, and a 1972
Alberta
Posts: 6,333
Registry
Anna, You have a very nice, well equipped Trillium.

For the Ensolite, I have found that a solution of 50% water and 50% bleach really cleans it up. I purchased one that had a caved in roof:
https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...tml#post423295
It cleaned up nice. I think your trailer has seen more than its share of moisture as well.

I never liked the Mac-Tack on the doors anyway. I think ľ” birch plywood looks much nicer.

The flooring is not original as far as I know. Looks like removing it will not be hard.

I am curious about the function of what looks like two rivets in the seat, beside the furnace.

Some observations:
- You don’t have a 120VAC to 12VDC converter. I’m not sure they were even an option at that time. It is worthwhile to put one in. Typically it would come with a battery charger. This would allow you to plug in your trailer and use the 12VDC lights and charge your battery. There is a way to put one in where the breaker is, below the furnace. Let me know if this is of interest.
- However, with the exception of a kitchen window, you do have almost every other possible option
- Furnace: That is a Duo-Therm 65810-002. I love these! So simple. It is basically a fire in a box. It requires no electrical power to make heat. However they are no longer available as they don’t meet DOT or CSA standards. It can get hot enough on the surface that it could start a fire if something like a sleeping bag is leaning against it. It could also burn your kids. I would recommend keeping it, but be aware of the hazards. I don’t think the knob is original.
- Fridge: That is an RM211. Also a favorite of mine. When running on propane, it requires no electrical power either. However, it can run on 120VAC and 24VDC, assuming that the electrical heaters work.
- Shelf: You have one of two possible shelves. There could be one on the front as well. These are useful as a place to mount the lights. However, while traveling, stuff tends to fall out of them. Some people attach netting to help with this. Not having the front one is not such a problem. The kids that sleep in the top bunk will appreciate the extra head room.
- You also have the optional window in your door.
- Your table has the optional silver ware drawer, with the silver ware tray, (bonus!). Typically the tray would have a piece of plywood, with a knob attached to it. Another good place for a piece of birch.
- Your sink is closer to your stove then I am used to. I think this is related to the size of the hand pump?
- The mirror on your upper kitchen cupboard is typically mounted to the side of the closet, by the trailer door.
- There appears to be a piece of Mac-Tack on the side of your upper kitchen cabinet. I have never seen this before. There should be a 12VDC light there.
- You are missing some of the T-molding that covers the seams in your Ensolite. This can be purchased from Paul Neumister: https://fibreglass-rv.ca/catalog.html
- It is possible to put another door below the closet. Trillium did this in later models. There is not much room there, since the wheel well is there. Enough space for a spice rack, maybe.
- I see a piece of wire hanging out of the closet, near the top of the trailer door. Do you have an exterior light?
- There are clips that hold the stove burner grates in place. These can be purchased from Brown: https://www.brownstoveworksinc.com/service.htm

This was longer than I intended. Sorry for being so long winded, (typed?)

On Edit: I should also mention some of the standard restoration jobs / design flaws:
- The belly band: In time, with freezing and thawing, it will develop leaks:
https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...ead-58763.html
https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...ead-59580.html
- The door: The hinges are not mounted very well to the body, or the door. There are lots of threads on this subject.
- The windows: As you know they will need new butyl tape. New seals are probably a good idea as well, but that is work.
- The bolts holding the coach to the frame. It is almost certain that these have failed, unless they were replaced recently. Your trailer will have six of these. Four in gaucho, (front couch / bunk bed) and one in each of the rear dinette seats. These are relatively easy to replace. However, if they go through the frame, as opposed to angle iron tabs welded to the frame, it might be a good idea to make that modification, and weld the holes in the frame closed. This is a job best done with the coach removed from the frame.
- The axle: Another job for when you have the coach off the frame. After forty years, an axle designed to last 20 years is probably in need of replacement. I would recommend one with brakes. The capacity of your original axle is likely 2000 lbs. This allowed the use of a class 1 hitch. However, I would recommend one that has something in the range of 2500 lbs. capacity. Camping gear adds up.
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Old 09-08-2021, 10:20 PM   #9
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Name: Anna
Trailer: Trillium
Washington
Posts: 30
New Trillium Owner in Seattle!

Quote:
Originally Posted by David Tilston View Post
Anna, You have a very nice, well equipped Trillium.

For the Ensolite, I have found that a solution of 50% water and 50% bleach really cleans it up. I purchased one that had a caved in roof:
https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...tml#post423295
It cleaned up nice. I think your trailer has seen more than its share of moisture as well.

I never liked the Mac-Tack on the doors anyway. I think ľĒ birch plywood looks much nicer.

The flooring is not original as far as I know. Looks like removing it will not be hard.

I am curious about the function of what looks like two rivets in the seat, beside the furnace.

Some observations:
-You donít have a 120VAC to 12VDC converter. Iím not sure they were even an option at that time. It is worthwhile to put one in. Typically it would come with a battery charger. This would allow you to plug in your trailer and use the 12VDC lights and charge your battery. There is a way to put one in where the breaker is, below the furnace. Let me know if this is of interest.
-However, with the exception of a kitchen window, you do have almost every other possible option
-Furnace: That is a Duo-Therm 65810-002. I love these! So simple. It is basically a fire in a box. It requires no electrical power to make heat. However they are no longer available as they donít meet DOT or CSA standards. It can get hot enough on the surface that it could start a fire if something like a sleeping bag is leaning against it. It could also burn your kids. I would recommend keeping it, but be aware of the hazards. I donít think the knob is original.
-Fridge: That is an RM211. Also a favorite of mine. When running on propane, it requires no electrical power either. However, it can run on 120VAC and 24VDC, assuming that the electrical heaters work.
-Shelf: You have one of two possible shelves. There could be one on the front as well. These are useful as a place to mount the lights. However, while traveling, stuff tends to fall out of them. Some people attach netting to help with this. Not having the front one is not such a problem. The kids that sleep in the top bunk will appreciate the extra head room.
-You also have the optional window in your door.
-Your table has the optional silver ware drawer, with the silver ware tray, (bonus!). Typically the tray would have a piece of plywood, with a knob attached to it. Another good place for a piece of birch.
-Your sink is closer to your stove then I am used to. I think this is related to the size of the hand pump?
-The mirror on your upper kitchen cupboard is typically mounted to the side of the closet, by the trailer door.
-There appears to be a piece of Mac-Tack on the side of your upper kitchen cabinet. I have never seen this before. There should be a 12VDC light there.
-You are missing some of the T-molding that covers the seams in your Ensolite. This can be purchased from Paul Neumister: https://fibreglass-rv.ca/catalog.html
-It is possible to put another door below the closet. Trillium did this in later models. There is not much room there, since the wheel well is there. Enough space for a spice rack, maybe.
-I see a piece of wire hanging out of the closet, near the top of the trailer door. Do you have an exterior light?
-There are clips that hold the stove burner grates in place. These can be purchased from Brown: https://www.brownstoveworksinc.com/service.htm

This was longer than I intended. Sorry for being so long winded, (typed?)

On Edit: I should also mention some of the standard restoration jobs / design flaws:
-The belly band: In time, with freezing and thawing, it will develop leaks:
https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...ead-58763.html
https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...ead-59580.html
-The door: The hinges are not mounted very well to the body, or the door. There are lots of threads on this subject.
-The windows: As you know they will need new butyl tape. New seals are probably a good idea as well, but that is work.
-The bolts holding the coach to the frame. It is almost certain that these have failed, unless they were replaced recently. Your trailer will have six of these. Four in gaucho, (front couch / bunk bed) and one in each of the rear dinette seats. These are relatively easy to replace. However, if they go through the frame, as opposed to angle iron tabs welded to the frame, it might be a good idea to make that modification, and weld the holes in the frame closed. This is a job best done with the coach removed from the frame.
-The axle: Another job for when you have the coach off the frame. After forty years, an axle designed to last 20 years is probably in need of replacement. I would recommend one with brakes. The capacity of your original axle is likely 2000 lbs. This allowed the use of a class 1 hitch. However, I would recommend one that has something in the range of 2500 lbs. capacity. Camping gear adds up.


Thank you so much for this detailed information! This is helpful!

I think the fridge doesnít work unfortunately. At least according to the seller. Not sure about the heater, will have to test it out. There is this box under it, whatís this? Is it just the on off switch for the heater? Or just power? I need to read up on how RV power works as I see that an outlet cable goes into it, so is that the converter you mentioned? Click image for larger version

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I checked what the rivets next to the furnace and they are just two hooks holding up a cable. The cable links to an outlet under the driverís side back bench. Click image for larger version

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I tested the sink to see if it would drain, and it did, but there is a leak from the drain, or pipe right under the sink, a light drip.

The bolts for furniture seem pretty secure, not sure if these are original, but they seem pretty solid, so perhaps replaced. Click image for larger version

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The brake lights and blinkers work and itís a seven point pin, but some of these cable connections look like theyíve seen better days. Will prob take this to an RV place or somewhere to get checked out, as well as gas lines and what not.

Once I get new tires, Iíll drive it up to a great welding shop that builds axles/trailers/adds brakes so that I can have them check it out and probably make that upgrade sooner rather than later.
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Old 09-09-2021, 06:28 AM   #10
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Name: E. Jane
Trailer: Trillium 1980 1300 Deluxe
Massachusetts
Posts: 34
Newbie as well

Greetings to you.



We are new owners of a trillium 1980 1300 deluxe. The interior looks quite similar to yours. I appreciated David's observations as it helped me understand some of the things our camper has.



Our fridge was replaced a while back with a small AC powered Apartment size Fridge. If we do lots of dry camping, we will want to change to a 3 way but I hear sizing is difficult for replacing. Our previous camper had a 3 way fridge and we loved it for the flexibility.



We have that extra door at the bottom of the closet and it holds only a tiny bit of stuff! A couple cans of insect repellent, sunscreen and a mini dustpan/brush.



We do have the ability to run the DC off the shore power with an installed converter.





I also found a little gadget for the water drainline to use if we have a full hookup site.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1



You attach your drain hose to it and it fits on the sewer pipe opening. We have not figured out dry camping and the drain line. Likely a bucket to catch it. Or do most washing of dishes outside so you can just toss the water in the woods.



We are taking our first simple trip in a couple weeks. 2 nights nearby in our fav campground. Full hookup and we will try various systems. We have 2 disabled adult children we will be bringing camping another time. Daughter inside, and son will get a tent. This is a big change from our 21 foot Keystone Outback with full bath and bunks. But we were ready to downsized and get a simpler/lighter tow situation too.
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Old 09-09-2021, 07:02 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbclabaugh View Post
We do have the ability to run the DC off the shore power with an installed inverter.
Just an FYIÖ You meant to say converter, which changes 110VAC shore power to 12VDC to run 12V lights and appliances.

An inverter does the opposite: it changes 12VDC battery power to 110VAC power to run small household appliances when youíre off grid. Inverters are a relatively new thing for small molded trailers, made practical by improvements in battery and solar technology.
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Old 09-09-2021, 07:09 AM   #12
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Name: E. Jane
Trailer: Trillium 1980 1300 Deluxe
Massachusetts
Posts: 34
Thanks for the correction. I am still trying to learn these terms!
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Old 09-09-2021, 08:09 AM   #13
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Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978 (2), 1300 - 1977, 1973, and a 1972
Alberta
Posts: 6,333
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbclabaugh View Post
Thanks for the correction. I am still trying to learn these terms!
Jane, (or is it E) If you start a similar thread, with pictures, (I love pictures!) then I will do the same kind of analysis of your trailer.
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Old 09-09-2021, 08:38 AM   #14
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Name: Anna
Trailer: Trillium
Washington
Posts: 30
New Trillium Owner in Seattle!

Quote:
Originally Posted by David Tilston View Post
Jane, (or is it E) If you start a similar thread, with pictures, (I love pictures!) then I will do the same kind of analysis of your trailer.


Please do Jane! I would love to see your Trillium and see how the deluxe compares! Excited for you!
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Old 09-09-2021, 08:53 AM   #15
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Name: Anna
Trailer: Trillium
Washington
Posts: 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbclabaugh View Post
Greetings to you.



We are new owners of a trillium 1980 1300 deluxe. The interior looks quite similar to yours. I appreciated David's observations as it helped me understand some of the things our camper has.



Our fridge was replaced a while back with a small AC powered Apartment size Fridge. If we do lots of dry camping, we will want to change to a 3 way but I hear sizing is difficult for replacing. Our previous camper had a 3 way fridge and we loved it for the flexibility.



We have that extra door at the bottom of the closet and it holds only a tiny bit of stuff! A couple cans of insect repellent, sunscreen and a mini dustpan/brush.



We do have the ability to run the DC off the shore power with an installed inverter.





I also found a little gadget for the water drainline to use if we have a full hookup site.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1



You attach your drain hose to it and it fits on the sewer pipe opening. We have not figured out dry camping and the drain line. Likely a bucket to catch it. Or do most washing of dishes outside so you can just toss the water in the woods.



We are taking our first simple trip in a couple weeks. 2 nights nearby in our fav campground. Full hookup and we will try various systems. We have 2 disabled adult children we will be bringing camping another time. Daughter inside, and son will get a tent. This is a big change from our 21 foot Keystone Outback with full bath and bunks. But we were ready to downsized and get a simpler/lighter tow situation too.


I would love to see pictures and also learn what you learn! Iím totally new to RVíing and am trying to figure it all out. Like what does that gadget for the water drain do? I figured if using organic matter, canít the gray water just drain out? Or is that bad?

How sweet for you and your children, that will be lovely to take them out in.
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Old 09-09-2021, 08:56 AM   #16
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Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978 (2), 1300 - 1977, 1973, and a 1972
Alberta
Posts: 6,333
Registry
Anna,

Please see my responses in RED below.
Quote:
Originally Posted by babyblue View Post
Thank you so much for this detailed information! This is helpful!

I think the fridge doesn’t work unfortunately. At least according to the seller.
There are a few things that kill a fridge, but usually fridges are repairable. Your fridge is an RM211. They are very common in the RV world, If it is dead, it will not be difficult, or expensive, to find a replacement. I have two of them as spares.
The first test is to plug it in, and set it to run on AC. Wait 24hrs and see if there is frost in the freezer. There are manuals in the document center:
https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/downloads.php

Quote:
Originally Posted by babyblue View Post
Not sure about the heater, will have to test it out.
The furnace is much simpler than the fridge. Unless it has rust holes in the combustion chamber, it can be fixed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by babyblue View Post
There is this box under it, what’s this? Is it just the on off switch for the heater? Or just power?
That is the main AC power breaker for your trailer. That is where Trillium would have installed the converter. If you want a converter, that is where I would install it. Can you provide the dimension from the bottom of the furnace to the floor?
Quote:
Originally Posted by babyblue View Post
I need to read up on how RV power works as I see that an outlet cable goes into it, so is that the converter you mentioned? Attachment 143104
No, that is just a breaker.

Quote:
Originally Posted by babyblue View Post
I checked what the rivets next to the furnace and they are just two hooks holding up a cable. The cable links to an outlet under the driver’s side back bench. Attachment 143105
Thanks, I wondered.

Quote:
Originally Posted by babyblue View Post
I tested the sink to see if it would drain, and it did, but there is a leak from the drain, or pipe right under the sink, a light drip.
Trilliums have about the simplest plumbing possible. The only tank is the fresh water tank. No black, (poop) or Grey (soapy water) tanks. Grey water goes directly out of the trailer. If you have a garden hose fitting at the end of you sink drain, that is meant to connect to a stub hose that goes to an external drain tank. It looks like you have a water pump from the fresh water tank. I see what looks like an unconnected barb fitting under it. What is that? There should be pressure switch or a manual switch that activates this pump. The pressure switch could be in the pump itself. How does it operate?

Quote:
Originally Posted by babyblue View Post
The bolts for furniture seem pretty secure, not sure if these are original, but they seem pretty solid, so perhaps replaced. Attachment 143106Attachment 143107
Those look original to me. They may look fine, however, when you pull them off, I would not be surprised if half of them have already failed. Another picture request. Could you please take pictures of the bottom of your trailer? Specifically, where the nuts are that go on the end of those bolts, and two general over all pictures from the front and back of the trailer. I am interested in the axle as well. Also a low angle one, from the side, of the first bend in the frame, at the front. I am looking for, "fish" plates that should be welded here. Trillium had a recall about this.

Quote:
Originally Posted by babyblue View Post
The brake lights and blinkers work and it’s a seven point pin, but some of these cable connections look like they’ve seen better days. Will prob take this to an RV place or somewhere to get checked out, as well as gas lines and what not.
At over $100/ hr., if you are on any kind of a budget, I recommend reserving the RV mechanic for things you simply can't do. Things like changing the axle. Wiring and plumbing are.... easy? In fact, I recommend completely re-wiring the trailer. You can find the wiring diagram here:
https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...do=file&id=134
Get yourself a lot of #12 white and black wire, (like 100', or more) as well as about 25' each of #14 yellow,(optional/not used) blue, red, brown, green, and white for the exterior lights. You may need extra of the green and white. There are many wire splicing methods. I am a bit of a nut here, so take what I say with a grain of salt. I like using a bare butt splice crimp, (actually, I strip an insulated crimp) followed by solder, (you do have a soldering iron, right?). Before either of these I slide on a piece of heat shrink tubing. After I solder, I apply a liberal amount of dielectric grease, then shrink the heat shrink over the grease. Most people just use an insulated butt splice crimp. That will work too, but not for another 40 years. DO NOT USE SCOTCH LOCK SPLICES


Quote:
Originally Posted by babyblue View Post
Once I get new tires, I’ll drive it up to a great welding shop that builds axles/trailers/adds brakes so that I can have them check it out and probably make that upgrade sooner rather than later.
Get them to quote you a new 2500# axle, with brakes and a new 2" coupler, (trailer hitch). If your stabilizer jacks need to be replaced, then get them to quote that as well.
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Old 09-09-2021, 09:07 AM   #17
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Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978 (2), 1300 - 1977, 1973, and a 1972
Alberta
Posts: 6,333
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by babyblue View Post
Please do Jane! I would love to see your Trillium and see how the deluxe compares! Excited for you!
Yours is pretty much a deluxe, minus the converter, and front shelf.
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Old 09-09-2021, 09:10 AM   #18
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Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978 (2), 1300 - 1977, 1973, and a 1972
Alberta
Posts: 6,333
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by babyblue View Post
I would love to see pictures and also learn what you learn! Iím totally new to RVíing and am trying to figure it all out. Like what does that gadget for the water drain do? I figured if using organic matter, canít the gray water just drain out? Or is that bad?
Yup, draining to the ground, bad. Use an external grey water tank, or that gadget to drain to the camp site sewer drain.
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Old 09-09-2021, 11:03 AM   #19
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Name: Anna
Trailer: Trillium
Washington
Posts: 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Tilston View Post
Anna,

Please see my responses in RED below.

There are a few things that kill a fridge, but usually fridges are repairable. Your fridge is an RM211. They are very common in the RV world, If it is dead, it will not be difficult, or expensive, to find a replacement. I have two of them as spares.
The first test is to plug it in, and set it to run on AC. Wait 24hrs and see if there is frost in the freezer. There are manuals in the document center:
https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/downloads.php


The furnace is much simpler than the fridge. Unless it has rust holes in the combustion chamber, it can be fixed.

That is the main AC power breaker for your trailer. That is where Trillium would have installed the converter. If you want a converter, that is where I would install it. Can you provide the dimension from the bottom of the furnace to the floor?

No, that is just a breaker.


Thanks, I wondered.


Trilliums have about the simplest plumbing possible. The only tank is the fresh water tank. No black, (poop) or Grey (soapy water) tanks. Grey water goes directly out of the trailer. If you have a garden hose fitting at the end of you sink drain, that is meant to connect to a stub hose that goes to an external drain tank. It looks like you have a water pump from the fresh water tank. I see what looks like an unconnected barb fitting under it. What is that? There should be pressure switch or a manual switch that activates this pump. The pressure switch could be in the pump itself. How does it operate?


Those look original to me. They may look fine, however, when you pull them off, I would not be surprised if half of them have already failed. Another picture request. Could you please take pictures of the bottom of your trailer? Specifically, where the nuts are that go on the end of those bolts, and two general over all pictures from the front and back of the trailer. I am interested in the axle as well. Also a low angle one, from the side, of the first bend in the frame, at the front. I am looking for, "fish" plates that should be welded here. Trillium had a recall about this.


At over $100/ hr., if you are on any kind of a budget, I recommend reserving the RV mechanic for things you simply can't do. Things like changing the axle. Wiring and plumbing are.... easy? In fact, I recommend completely re-wiring the trailer. You can find the wiring diagram here:
https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...do=file&id=134
Get yourself a lot of #12 white and black wire, (like 100', or more) as well as about 25' each of #14 yellow,(optional/not used) blue, red, brown, green, and white for the exterior lights. You may need extra of the green and white. There are many wire splicing methods. I am a bit of a nut here, so take what I say with a grain of salt. I like using a bare butt splice crimp, (actually, I strip an insulated crimp) followed by solder, (you do have a soldering iron, right?). Before either of these I slide on a piece of heat shrink tubing. After I solder, I apply a liberal amount of dielectric grease, then shrink the heat shrink over the grease. Most people just use an insulated butt splice crimp. That will work too, but not for another 40 years. DO NOT USE SCOTCH LOCK SPLICES



Get them to quote you a new 2500# axle, with brakes and a new 2" coupler, (trailer hitch). If your stabilizer jacks need to be replaced, then get them to quote that as well.


Here are some pictures, I have to post in a few threads. The stabilizer jacks are pretty rusty, but they seem to work ok. Might get new ones.

There are two nails through floor of fiberglass, wonder what these are from..

One nail is definitely broken on the front. The added welding repairs have been made to the frame where it dips.

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Old 09-09-2021, 11:05 AM   #20
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Name: Anna
Trailer: Trillium
Washington
Posts: 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Tilston View Post
Anna,

Please see my responses in RED below.

There are a few things that kill a fridge, but usually fridges are repairable. Your fridge is an RM211. They are very common in the RV world, If it is dead, it will not be difficult, or expensive, to find a replacement. I have two of them as spares.
The first test is to plug it in, and set it to run on AC. Wait 24hrs and see if there is frost in the freezer. There are manuals in the document center:
https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/downloads.php


The furnace is much simpler than the fridge. Unless it has rust holes in the combustion chamber, it can be fixed.

That is the main AC power breaker for your trailer. That is where Trillium would have installed the converter. If you want a converter, that is where I would install it. Can you provide the dimension from the bottom of the furnace to the floor?

No, that is just a breaker.


Thanks, I wondered.


Trilliums have about the simplest plumbing possible. The only tank is the fresh water tank. No black, (poop) or Grey (soapy water) tanks. Grey water goes directly out of the trailer. If you have a garden hose fitting at the end of you sink drain, that is meant to connect to a stub hose that goes to an external drain tank. It looks like you have a water pump from the fresh water tank. I see what looks like an unconnected barb fitting under it. What is that? There should be pressure switch or a manual switch that activates this pump. The pressure switch could be in the pump itself. How does it operate?


Those look original to me. They may look fine, however, when you pull them off, I would not be surprised if half of them have already failed. Another picture request. Could you please take pictures of the bottom of your trailer? Specifically, where the nuts are that go on the end of those bolts, and two general over all pictures from the front and back of the trailer. I am interested in the axle as well. Also a low angle one, from the side, of the first bend in the frame, at the front. I am looking for, "fish" plates that should be welded here. Trillium had a recall about this.


At over $100/ hr., if you are on any kind of a budget, I recommend reserving the RV mechanic for things you simply can't do. Things like changing the axle. Wiring and plumbing are.... easy? In fact, I recommend completely re-wiring the trailer. You can find the wiring diagram here:
https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...do=file&id=134
Get yourself a lot of #12 white and black wire, (like 100', or more) as well as about 25' each of #14 yellow,(optional/not used) blue, red, brown, green, and white for the exterior lights. You may need extra of the green and white. There are many wire splicing methods. I am a bit of a nut here, so take what I say with a grain of salt. I like using a bare butt splice crimp, (actually, I strip an insulated crimp) followed by solder, (you do have a soldering iron, right?). Before either of these I slide on a piece of heat shrink tubing. After I solder, I apply a liberal amount of dielectric grease, then shrink the heat shrink over the grease. Most people just use an insulated butt splice crimp. That will work too, but not for another 40 years. DO NOT USE SCOTCH LOCK SPLICES



Get them to quote you a new 2500# axle, with brakes and a new 2" coupler, (trailer hitch). If your stabilizer jacks need to be replaced, then get them to quote that as well.

Here are more, whatís the tube that runs out the bottom?

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