Newbie Boler Owner - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 07-11-2021, 07:42 PM   #21
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Borden, thanks for mentioning this. I have not noticed any door sag, but 3/16 of an inch sure isnt much, I'm going to examine mine more closely. The fix I've done has been working fine, but it's so slight of an adjustment - I'm wondering if my door is out by even 1/8", it's probably worth it to order that hinge repair kit and install it before it gets worse. Or just to have on hand for the eventuality of sag.
Thanks again, I'm grateful for any little bit of advice I get!
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Old 07-13-2021, 09:33 AM   #22
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Old 07-16-2021, 05:04 PM   #23
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Your boler looks to be in great shape. Somebody must have fixed it up. Interesting how they replaced the jalousie windows with more modern ones. I like my jalousie windows because of good airflow. And, one thing I can do is stick a window ac through the jalousie window by removing one of the panes. I made a wooden template the same size as the screen that sticks in where the screen goes with a hole cut in it for the ac to stick through. Tested it out last weekend and it works great. My boler is still a work in progress and not as nice as yours is yet. I would be curious to know what year yours is.
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Old 07-16-2021, 05:08 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Jonette View Post
I have a question about the cabinet support. Mine doesn't have one, but I plan to put one in. I kinda wanna install a countertop, but I realize that the stock cabinet support with offset legs then won't fit over the extra thickness. I've seen numerous photos if renovated bolers where people 'solved' that issue by installing the cabinet support upside down. Is that truly a solution?

While I'm on this topic, I'm thinking that bolers with the support installed must have a plywood backing laminated inside the lower cabinet side? I can't really check mine without removing the sink and/or furnace, can I safely assume there's wood in there? My closet has reinforced corners, but the side walls are fiberglass only. I can't imagine a couple of screws through a fiberglass shell is enough to secure the support for the roof??
Mine doesn't have the supports either but have never had any problems with sagging over the last 3 years. I took my furnace out last winter to try and repair it. I don't see any plywood in there. It's all fiberglass. There is some wood strips behind the doors to support the screw of course. The only thing I worry about is snow in the winter. I just keep it from piling up on the roof. One thing I may do this winter is make a little cabinet on top of the counter in the space behind the sink that reaches up to the upper cabinet. This could act as a support also. I already made a removable cabinet that fits over the stove I do not use.

edit: I just noticed yours has a cabinet support. See the metal tube between the upper cabinet and the bottom one that is in the middle.
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Old 07-16-2021, 10:36 PM   #25
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Thanks....I'm not sure how I got so lucky, im not usually the one to nab a great find like this....someone really did do a great job restoring this boler. I still look at ads for bolers and vintage trailers just cos I find it interesting to see what's out there, and I haven't seen another boler yet this year that would make me happier than this one does. It doesn't need much except a bit of spit n shine, I'll update the stereo to a bluetooth model, sew new curtains and upholstery. I'm updating the wood tones from that dark cherry red too, learning now how to use a router so I can make new cabinet doors. Not that it needs any of the above, but I just want to make it more in line with my own personal taste - isnt that just half the fin of getting a new ( to you) trailer.This will be my third and hopefully final trailer, I expect to keep this one for the rest of my camping lifetime. It has a few rock chips and other minor exterior blemishes, but I can live with that, I can't justify the cost of painting it anytime soon. It needs an external polishing, I'm sure this boler will be beautiful when its polished up, I'll get to that when this heat subsides and before winter sets in this year.
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Old 07-16-2021, 10:46 PM   #26
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I'm going to make a 2x4 support for winter snow load. As others have advised here. I dont think that chrome tube you see in the picture of my kitchen is for support, it's just a conduit for the electrical wiring. I dont think this boler ever had a cabinet support, and like yours. It doesn't seem to have caused any issues over the years, but from what I've read, things can appear to he stable for years and then fail...seemingly overnight. I've decided I'd rather be safe than sorry. And now that I've decided on a vintage summer camp decorating theme, I'll be ordering that cabinet support from scamp that has the spruce tree design....it will be perfect.

If you dont mind, could you tell me how difficult it was to remove your furnace? Is it a huge pia? I want to put in a new countertop, sink and faucet, with an electric pump to an exterior water reservoir like Ian Giles has on his website. The screw clamps on my sink are rusted and it's too tight to get a wrench up in there, I think I'm gonna have to take the furnace out, but I'm somewhat intimidated by the thought of it.
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Old 07-17-2021, 12:00 AM   #27
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Your boler looks to be in great shape. Somebody must have fixed it up. Interesting how they replaced the jalousie windows with more modern ones. I like my jalousie windows because of good airflow. And, one thing I can do is stick a window ac through the jalousie window by removing one of the panes. I made a wooden template the same size as the screen that sticks in where the screen goes with a hole cut in it for the ac to stick through. Tested it out last weekend and it works great. My boler is still a work in progress and not as nice as yours is yet. I would be curious to know what year yours is.

Mine's a '75. The front bench isnt fiberglass, its plywood with melamine hardboard facings. From the indentations on the ensolite behind, it looks like there was an original fiberglass bench there, so I dunno why that got pulled and replaced. There are indentations for the bunk hinges below the window, and the proper upper bunk cushion with 'wings' is there, but no bunk supports. Since I'll be camping solo it's no big deal for me anyway.

I agree with you about the jalousie windows, I think they're awesome....great to be able to open them on a rainy day. I will probably never know why they were changed out to the modern ones, wish I could've bought this trailer from the guy who restored it, I'd love to know more details. It does have a fantastic fan in it, which I'm pretty thrilled about. Since I can't store this trailer at home (condo) I'm limited to how much and what kind of work I can do on a trailer. So glad the most important stuff is intact, and all the stuff I'll do is cosmetic. I'm not allowed to do any reno's or work on it at the storage facility, but I've been sneaking out there and doing some stuff anyway. So far, nobody has caught me out. I've removed all the cabinet doors to make new ones, replaced the floor with new lvt flooring (happy to discover a fiberglass floor and not plywood) and today I gave half the interior a fresh coat of paint. Half, because I've got all my camping stuff stored in it, so tomorrow I'll move it all to the other end of the trailer and paint the other half. I feel spoiled that I dont have any major fixes to do....none that I can see or find so far, anyway. I pulled a small shelf unit out of the closet that I didn't think was the most efficient use of that space, and behind it i found laminated sheets of user instructions for the fridge, stove and furnace, the shelves for inside the fridge (yay!), plus a drip cap and rivets for above the door. The lady I bought it from said she never used fridge/stove/furnace, and i haven't tried them yet either (I want to check the lines for leaks and the battery in it was toast cos po lady left it in the battery box every winter since 2018). I am encouraged by this find, all indications are that everything works, the lady I bought it from was just in over her head and intimidated, or something. Or just discovered that she didn't like camping solo, maybe.

I've looked and cant find any pics of yours here, but that's ok...not a complaint or anything
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Old 07-17-2021, 04:03 PM   #28
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I'm going to make a 2x4 support for winter snow load. As others have advised here. I dont think that chrome tube you see in the picture of my kitchen is for support, it's just a conduit for the electrical wiring. I dont think this boler ever had a cabinet support, and like yours. It doesn't seem to have caused any issues over the years, but from what I've read, things can appear to he stable for years and then fail...seemingly overnight. I've decided I'd rather be safe than sorry. And now that I've decided on a vintage summer camp decorating theme, I'll be ordering that cabinet support from scamp that has the spruce tree design....it will be perfect.

If you dont mind, could you tell me how difficult it was to remove your furnace? Is it a huge pia? I want to put in a new countertop, sink and faucet, with an electric pump to an exterior water reservoir like Ian Giles has on his website. The screw clamps on my sink are rusted and it's too tight to get a wrench up in there, I think I'm gonna have to take the furnace out, but I'm somewhat intimidated by the thought of it.
Your furnace looks different than mine so it's hard to say how difficult it would be. Is it the original? Mine is original and was rusted together. I tried to get it apart before with brute strength and could not. Last winter it came apart on its own I guess from the temperature change outside vs inside while I had the inside heated.
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Old 07-17-2021, 04:11 PM   #29
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I've looked and cant find any pics of yours here, but that's ok...not a complaint or anything
Last few summers being stripping paint off the exterior. Has a ways to go still to make it look ok. Need to repair fibreglass as well from moose damage. I already resealed most of the windows except the stove window.
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Old 07-17-2021, 04:27 PM   #30
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I'm guessing when he said to back up screws with plywood it is only a small piece big enough to hold the screw. Like maybe 2x3" piece depending on what is needed. So if you are putting a side cabinet support you would just need a small piece on the other side of the fibreglass for the screws to bite into as the fibreglass is not that strong on its own. If you glue a small strip of plywood in there with wood glue or something then you can drill holes for the screws or bolts after it is cemented. I doubt you would have to remove the furnace for that. I glued plywood strip in my closet so that I could install standard shelving without drilling holes in the fibreglass and it works great.
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Old 07-17-2021, 08:12 PM   #31
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my gosh, sounds like you've hot a real project there. So worth it in the end, no doubt you'll smile with great pride at all the work you've done when its finished...and as you go along, too!

I was just having a closer look at my furnace today, and it's not original. What the heck was the brand...wagon master? I think? I made a mental note if it, but have already forgotten. The screw holes for the cabinet door hinges that would have been there have never been filled, so I'm sure it was installed as part of the previous-previous owner's restoration. .Its vented to the outside, I don't think I want to attempt removing it. I realized that it wouldn't give me any more clearance to get at the clamps/screws holding in the sink anyway, as those screws are located between the sink well and the cabinet wall. I'm not sure how I'm gonna get that sink out! Part of me is wondering if i can cut the sink out with an angle grinder...either cutting through the sink itself or the countertop....which I am hesitant to do, but I already bought a gorgeous black sink and brass faucet, so I really want to make this happen. I thought I would install a wood or laminate countertop, then take the shelf support to a machine shop and have them cut it down, put a 3/4" bend in the bottom ends with screw holes so I can screw it to the countertop.

The sink has to come out somehow, someway. If anybody has suggestions, please let me know. I can't be the first person with this problem, somebody has to have found a way, surely. I'm kinda stuck at the moment. Im scared of breaking those long screws off. I can loosen the one at the right side quite easily, there's probably one at the back and one at the left side too, which I cant access with the furnace venting in there. I'm gonna start by spraying the screw/clamp at the front of the sink with penetrating oil and leaving it for a day, see if that works me a miracle. Maybe I can get the front and right side loose, then pry the sink up enough to get a sawzall in there to cut the other two clamps?? Can I just cut the sink right out of the counter with a jigsaw, then screw the fiberglass counter from underneath into the new countertop I install on top? Somebody is laughing at me now, probably.
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Old 07-18-2021, 02:30 PM   #32
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Half of the battle is seeing what you're doing. What I do is put my phone camera on video and turn the light on and hit record. Then I stick my phone where I can not see. You might have to try a few times before you can get a good picture. You could try that under your sink to see what is going on.
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Old 07-18-2021, 02:47 PM   #33
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This is a 1978 scamp sink removal, so it should be similar.

https://youtu.be/Gj_EJOoOGQA
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Old 07-18-2021, 10:22 PM   #34
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Half of the battle is seeing what you're doing. What I do is put my phone camera on video and turn the light on and hit record. Then I stick my phone where I can not see. You might have to try a few times before you can get a good picture. You could try that under your sink to see what is going on.
Oh good tip, thank you! 🙂
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Old 07-18-2021, 10:33 PM   #35
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This is a 1978 scamp sink removal, so it should be similar.

https://youtu.be/Gj_EJOoOGQA
This is so kind if you, thanks so much!

I did look on YouTube, and saw this the other day, but mine is a bit different. The sink clips have long...like probably 4" long hex head skinny bolts with a round clip/grommet/cup thingy that tightens against the underside of the countertop. And they are not located at the corners, but one on each side of the sink. The problem is that I don't know how to access the one that is surely on the left side of the sink, and the one at the back is a pia to get to as well. The one at the front is rusted on, can't turn it for the life of me. I've rubbed more penetrating oil on it, will check it again in a day or two. I still think I'm gonna have to cut the sink out with an angle grinder, I'll let you know how it goes, lol.
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Old 10-12-2021, 12:49 AM   #36
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So I ended up destroying the old sink to get it out. Had to use an angle grinder to cut the sink up and then it was easy to pry it out. I've pretty much finished the interior reno's now. Still a few things left that I'll do in the spring, like glue down the scribe molding I used for mini baseboards, plumb the sink and install the backsplash properly. I'm waiting to see if the experimental fake-stone backsplash survives the winter (fingers crossed). I made it by cutting apart and then piecing together samples of a product that I got from a friend who owns a paint store. Lots of caulking, acrylic gel medium, paint and acrylic wax adhered to a sheet of thin polystyrene. I think it'll be ok, but it may shrink/ crack in cold weather.
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Old 10-13-2021, 12:00 AM   #37
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Wow, you did a great job! Looks great 👍.

On mine, I removed the back rest on the front couch and replaced all the cushions. With no back rest I can actually lie down with enough room on the couch. I don't sleep there, as it's still kinda cramped, but it's great for taking a nap when the table is setup. If I am on the couch with the door open I get a nice view and a breeze. The only thing about the door open is I had a bear come thru my campsite once this season. But normally is not a concern. I just told the bear to leave and he did.
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Old 10-13-2021, 09:18 PM   #38
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Thanks! It was a firm of therapy for me, a place to divert my attention and find inspiration for a bit.

I'm thinking I might take the bench back out too. But I rarely switch between the bed and table. One of the biggest downfalls of being a 'glamper'.....you sacrifice some practicality for pretty. If I valued practicality over luxury as a camper, I'd sleep in a sleeping bag and make my bed every day. But somehow it feels normal to me to have a luxurious bed available to snooze in, 24 hrs a day when camping. I also camp alone, and love it....but somehow sitting at a table makes me feel lonely sometimes. Huh, I just noticed that now by writing it.
I may configure it as the bunk for extra storage space on longer trips.
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Old 10-17-2021, 07:11 AM   #39
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Hi Jo.
My sister and brother-in-law live in Canmore Alberta; with their Boler. As you read more postings you will see that Boler doors tend to sag, (as the sides bow outward and the top lowers a bit), in storage it is suggested a 2x4 be wedged between floor and ceiling. A approx. 30cm x 30cm plywood board on the floor and the same on the roof. The roof board held in place by the 2x4. the plywood at roof and floor will distribute the pressure created by the 2x4 being too long. measuring the distance from floor to ceiling the 2x4 needs to be approx.. 5cms longer. place plywood piece on floor, hold ply piece on ceiling near center of trailer, with the 2x4 wedged between both pieces of plywood, kick, or hammer the 2x4 at the bottom to make it almost straight up.
Trailers have crushed like an egg shell when weighted down by heavy snow. I have seen pictures of my sisters trailer with about 2 feet of snow on top. Crushed trailers are not common.
-Does the P.O. have any knowledge about the axle ? New? Or does she have phone number for the person that owned the trailer before her so you could ask questions.
-I have a records book about all the things I have done to my trailer, where items came from and cost. Nice to pass on with trailer sale.

Later Kenny
Our was not the door, it was the wall shape (spread) pulled it back in place and door fit. We also support the roof in storage it has actually helped with roof shape. Ours is a 17' with leaf springs and it is 18' to top of hitch ball when level.
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