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06-12-2022, 07:12 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Name: Kelly
Trailer: Trillium
MN
Posts: 14
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Trillium stripped to the bones
Hello! My husband and I snagged a gutted Trillium trailer. We don't know year or model (assume 1300). Do you?
We are handy and enjoy renovating homes. This will be our first camper and first fiberglass. We are excited to learn. Our intent is to keep this for our family of 4.
As EVERYTHING needs to be done. Where do we start? This is the order of operations in my head. I am thinking frame (it is solid with surface rust), exterior (fiber glass repairs, etc), windows, interior framing, door, wiring, water line, no fuel, maybe plan for future solar, walls, floor, finishes. Sounds easy right!?!
Guidance and lessons learned are welcome and appreciated. Also, links to others that have done the same.
Thank you from Duluth!
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06-12-2022, 11:21 PM
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#2
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Member
Name: Mike
Trailer: In the Market
Alaska
Posts: 77
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You always start with a beer. Or the DMV.
Get out the garden hose and spray it down. Find if it is leaking anywhere and start there. I'd get some cutting compound, wax and a buffer. Clean and detail it inside and out first.
Plan your electrical, water system, etc. I'd suggest taking it to a welder or trailer repair shop and have them check your frame. Grease the axle bearings, etc. Check the date code on your tires. Get all the lights working.
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06-13-2022, 06:53 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Trailer: Trillium 2010
Posts: 5,185
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Welcome to the forum. I would suggest learning how to use the search feature. The Google option works best. Everything you will need to know is here. Trillium had a frame recall in the early years. Added reenforcement to the bends in the frame. You want to make sure that was done. Rotten wood around the windows and door are common. Rusty plates that hold the belly band need to be removed. Axle may need replacing. Once you're done you'll have a very nice trailer.
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06-13-2022, 08:05 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978, 1979, 1300 - 1977, and a 1973
Alberta
Posts: 6,926
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Yes, that is a 1300. As for year, the fact that you have an escape hatch window, (installed on the wrong end) indicates at least a 1976. Do you know the serial number? If so, you can determine the year from this list:
https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...tml#post680419
Why someone would remove the kitchen, and rear dinette, (closet?) is beyond me. Fortunately, you can get these parts from Trillium / Outback, in Calgary. Though shipping might cost more than the parts.
Please note that both the kitchen, and closet hold up the roof. Without them, you will see some roof sag. Under a heavy snow load, it may collapse.
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06-13-2022, 11:17 AM
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#5
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Junior Member
Name: Kelly
Trailer: Trillium
MN
Posts: 14
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Thank you. I will put a drywall jack in place until the interior is complete. We have lots of snow.
Yes, I also cannot figure out why it was gutted. I was planning to frame in with wood. Other than not keeping it true to the original, is there any reason that I couldn't frame the missing pieces?
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06-13-2022, 11:18 AM
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#6
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Junior Member
Name: Kelly
Trailer: Trillium
MN
Posts: 14
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What years were recalled?
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06-13-2022, 12:06 PM
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#7
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Member
Name: Mike
Trailer: In the Market
Alaska
Posts: 77
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You might want to make some bulkheads with plywood and tab them to the shell with fiberglass and epoxy. That will help with the flex. Make a cardboard pattern.
You can support the roof with plywood and a 2x4
Make a bunch of templates out of cardboard for the hatch covers and everything you need to cut out of plywood so you can cut them out at one time. Plywood is crazy $$$ now. If you wait a few months it will be cheaper. Prices on lumber are crashing right now.
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06-14-2022, 05:05 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Name: Duane
Trailer: 1976 Trillium 1300
New Brunswick
Posts: 180
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Trillium stripped to the bones
Hi welcome aboard.
I have a 1976 1300 that has no escape window ,electrical connections are on the cupboard side ,watertank aft of the door and filler cap above the marker light on the rear . I think many changes were made to the Trailers during production without any regard to model years. Optional equipment also changed layouts due to which supplier was used. Many Trilliums were ordered by customers with certain items added too. The bare shell is always the same though as far as I know .I did see a post about a different frame used on a early trailer. I check photos on the site on a regular basis and have not as yet found any 1300 built like mine .
I suggest you search the forums on here for help with your project . I asked my first question about where and how many bolts held the body on the frame ,mine were very rusty and needed to be replaced . I was surprised to see how weak they were. As for recalls on the frame cracks ,these were at the right front near the door side where the frame bends upward . I suppose flexing happened each time someone whent in or out . The fix was to weld a plate over the crack and extend it about 6" on either side of the break . The fame is thin so I used a 3/16" x 2 1/2" peice and tapered each end to alow more weld area.
I noticed there are snaps on the outside for a screen room ,great if you have bugs show up . The bag awning is good to have too if it's usable. You should obtain any fixtures you want to install before any cupboard plans are attempted . A mock up of any built in using clamps or screws to hold things in place is a good idea 1x2 is easy to get . If you have a title or registration the serial number is helpful too .Check the list on here and see where yours falls. A paper sheet glued to a cupboard door was all the factory used for the vin . Not exactly a permanent way to do this.
Good luck with your new trailer project ! Ask on here any questions you have chances are someone will help out .
Regards, Duane
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06-14-2022, 08:15 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978, 1979, 1300 - 1977, and a 1973
Alberta
Posts: 6,926
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Quote:
Originally Posted by getaway1
Hi welcome aboard.
I have a 1976 1300 that has no escape window ,electrical connections are on the cupboard side ,watertank aft of the door and filler cap above the marker light on the rear . I think many changes were made to the Trailers during production without any regard to model years. Optional equipment also changed layouts due to which supplier was used. Many Trilliums were ordered by customers with certain items added too. The bare shell is always the same though as far as I know .I did see a post about a different frame used on a early trailer. I check photos on the site on a regular basis and have not as yet found any 1300 built like mine .
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Duane, Have you looked at this thread: Serial Numbers on a Trillium
Quote:
Originally Posted by getaway1
I suggest you search the forums on here for help with your project . I asked my first question about where and how many bolts held the body on the frame ,mine were very rusty and needed to be replaced . I was surprised to see how weak they were. As for recalls on the frame cracks ,these were at the right front near the door side where the frame bends upward . I suppose flexing happened each time someone whent in or out . The fix was to weld a plate over the crack and extend it about 6" on either side of the break . The fame is thin so I used a 3/16" x 2 1/2" peice and tapered each end to alow more weld area.
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Actually, the fix, regardless of cracking is to weld fish plates on both sides of the frame. Trillium put the fish plates both on the inside and outside of the frame for a total of four plates. I have seen a wide variety of versions of this fix. Some have added plates that go from just under the door to the far side of the second bend. I did a drawing of my 4500 frame that shows the factory version of the fix.
Quote:
Originally Posted by getaway1
I noticed there are snaps on the outside for a screen room ,great if you have bugs show up . The bag awning is good to have too if it's usable. You should obtain any fixtures you want to install before any cupboard plans are attempted . A mock up of any built in using clamps or screws to hold things in place is a good idea 1x2 is easy to get . If you have a title or registration the serial number is helpful too .Check the list on here and see where yours falls. A paper sheet glued to a cupboard door was all the factory used for the vin . Not exactly a permanent way to do this.
Good luck with your new trailer project ! Ask on here any questions you have chances are someone will help out .
Regards, Duane
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Ahh... You have seen my list.
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06-14-2022, 09:40 AM
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#10
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Junior Member
Name: Kelly
Trailer: Trillium
MN
Posts: 14
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I appreciate the support. This group is amazing. My weekend is going to busy!
I found 6 bolts to the frame. I will replace them. Is there a preferred replacement bolt? Maybe a website link to order from?
I want to clean up the frame too. I am thinking about pulling the shell off, though intimidating. Then I am going to use a metal brsu wheel on my grinder to chip the scale off followed by POR15. I will assess if this can be done without pulling off the shell.
I will do an axel drop test to check. But there are no wheel marks on the wheel wells and it pulled nicely. Hopefully, I can keep the axel after cleaning it up. See pictures for level of rust. But I have read that a 40 year old axel should be replaced just based on age. Thoughts? We do plan for cross country road trips.
Also, I don't see any cracks in the frame. There are reinforecement plates at the front where the body is bolted through the frame (no tabs). See pic. Is this the repair for the recall? Or do I need to add side plates too?
As always Thank You!
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06-14-2022, 10:18 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978, 1979, 1300 - 1977, and a 1973
Alberta
Posts: 6,926
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Those plates would help, but I would be inclined to weld plates on the side as well. In later years Trillium put the bolts through the cross members. That way there are no holes in the frame. On my 4500 there are 8 bolts. Four in the gaucho, and two in each of the dinette seats. All but two of them are through cross members. The ones that have a tab are the forward bolts in the dinette seats. The only reason that they are not on a cross member is that the water tank on a 4500 hangs down between the frame rails, and these bolts are on either side of the water tank.
As for replacement bolts, I used stainless steel 1/4" carriage bolts with the nylock nuts on the top. That way the threads don't get rusty. Makes it a two-person job though. I would also be inclined to use nylon washers to prevent galvanic corrosion.
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06-14-2022, 10:24 AM
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#12
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Member
Name: Mike
Trailer: In the Market
Alaska
Posts: 77
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Rusted bolts can be very difficult to remove and replace. It often involves specialty extractor tools and oxy-acetylene torches. They will likely break in the worst possible place. You might have to drill them out. Bolts come in different strengths, sizes and materials. If you want original you need to look at the heads. I would have a trailer shop take a look at them.
Cracks would be most likely in the welds than in the middle of the steel. You won't be able to see them with that much rust.
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06-14-2022, 10:53 AM
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#13
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Junior Member
Name: Kelly
Trailer: Trillium
MN
Posts: 14
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uff da, funny how I took on the project thinking the frame was good to go. Typical reno optimism.
Ok new plan. I think the shell must come off the get a really good look at the frame. It will also be easier clean up the frame too. Then I will assess for cracks and add extra plates. I am starting to think my summer project is going to become a 2 year project and that is ok. I might have to document this process.
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06-14-2022, 10:53 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978, 1979, 1300 - 1977, and a 1973
Alberta
Posts: 6,926
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RollinMike
Rusted bolts can be very difficult to remove and replace. It often involves specialty extractor tools and oxy-acetylene torches. They will likely break in the worst possible place. You might have to drill them out. Bolts come in different strengths, sizes and materials. If you want original you need to look at the heads. I would have a trailer shop take a look at them.
Cracks would be most likely in the welds than in the middle of the steel. You won't be able to see them with that much rust.
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Thanks Mike, But the bolts in question are typically held on by the rust. Once you try to remove them, they tend to break in the middle and just fall out.
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06-14-2022, 12:41 PM
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#15
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Member
Name: Mike
Trailer: In the Market
Alaska
Posts: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gitchee
uff da, funny how I took on the project thinking the frame was good to go. Typical reno optimism.
Ok new plan. I think the shell must come off the get a really good look at the frame. It will also be easier clean up the frame too. Then I will assess for cracks and add extra plates. I am starting to think my summer project is going to become a 2 year project and that is ok. I might have to document this process.
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It shouldn't take more than a weekend to pull the frame out and sand blast all the rust off. Make it a lot easier to paint. You are doing it the right way. Trailers restored like you are doing are worth $$$$
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06-14-2022, 01:53 PM
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#16
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Junior Member
Name: Kelly
Trailer: Trillium
MN
Posts: 14
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I don't have the capital to have the trailer sand blasted and painted. I am leaning towards descaling via wire brush on drill or grinder, then following the POR15 prep and paint process. I need to complete this project with quality while keeping my cost low.
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06-14-2022, 02:00 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978, 1979, 1300 - 1977, and a 1973
Alberta
Posts: 6,926
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It is my understanding that POR15 works best with some rust on the metal. I'm no expert, but as I understand it, POR15 reacts chemically with the rust.
From: https://por15canada.ca/store/por15-r...e-coating.html
designed for application directly on rusted or seasoned metal surfaces
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06-14-2022, 07:45 PM
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#18
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Junior Member
Name: Kelly
Trailer: Trillium
MN
Posts: 14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Tilston
Thanks Mike, But the bolts in question are typically held on by the rust. Once you try to remove them, they tend to break in the middle and just fall out.
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Yes, all 6 broke and the frame is ready to be separated. Yikes! I am glad you advised to check the bolts.
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06-18-2022, 10:14 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1979 Layton 22 ft / 2004 Ram-Cummins 2500 2wd
Posts: 180
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uff da? Norsk?
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06-18-2022, 11:48 AM
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#20
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Member
Name: Tom
Trailer: Amerigo
Wisconsin
Posts: 73
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I just did another small fiberglass camper, I installed a high performance rooftop ac and separate gas furnace. Converted all the electrical to LEDs. I kept conventional battery. So I have all the propane, a gas generator and battery storage. I guess in my druthers, I'd go with a mini split heat pump, solar, liFE battery and inverter. I could have saved on a regular 120vac mini frig, hot plate, toaster oven, no rooftop ac, no furnace, no propane. Depending on where and when I traveled I might not take a all inverter generator along. I think mini split and solar power system would be simpler, less hardware and a longer term"fix".
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