U haul camper found some questions please

[Sventinker]

Hi I'm Sven I have found a 13 foot U Haul camper in a backyard and am unsure what to offer as the owner is having a difficult time figuring a price. I have no pics yet and do not know the year but here is what I know, It needs tires no spare in sight. Has upgraded converter, new large solar panel and new controller and new battery. sink faucet with electric pump all fabric is old and should be re done. Stove works no tank on front though and the furnace is new too. It has a window unit a/c under the stove. has a stereo with amp all new. In the front it has bunk style beds. No cover for front window. it needs a new side window. I am very mechanically capable and can do all work myself. the fiberglass has some minor scuffs and dings. I have two small kids and a wife seems to be the right size for us but I'm 6' tall will I fit in the rear bed? any advise is appreciated.

[mary and bob]

Consider that the weight with a small amount of camping gear will be around 1500lb, and could easily go higher. Determine if your tow vehicle can handle this as these trailers did not have brakes unless a previous owner added them. I am just under 6', each of us about 180, and we sleep in the rear bed OK. It stays made up as a bed, not used as the dinette. Custom windows of a different installation type can be had for under $150. Tires are not a problem but locating a spare rim could be. Sounds like it has had some upgrades but expect to do more as these trailers could have other issues. In general they are well built, but have parts unique to them only. Probably a price of $3000 or less would be good but they usually go for more in the $4000 to $5000 range, but it all depends on condition. We bought ours for $2000, have spent much time on repairs, and I'm guessing around $1000 on parts including tires. If you can do the work yourself, which I can, that is good, otherwise labor can be very expensive. Make a low offer and see where it goes. Check out the frame for rust, and the floor for rot. If the seller advertises the camper it will probably sell quick. Good luck.

[Donna D.]

Hi Sven, to FiberglassRV, we're glad you're here

I wouldn't hazard a guess what you should offer, but you'll get some excellent advice from the membership. My suggestion is for you to download and print out the Buyer's Check List from the Document Center and take it with you anytime you view a used trailer.

Best of luck on your egg hunt!

[Sventinker]

Thanks guys I have a feeling he is thinking $1500 or less. He was asking me "if I have a use for it" I think more than just going to sell it. And yes if I buy it I won't sell it. So my assumption is he has two prices one for someone to use and one for a flipper. He said I should look up what these go for. I have seen similar campers and have wanted one since I sold my truck as our ford flex could handle it fine. I will keep reading these forums to learn more thank you.

[papa-t]

Welcome to the forum Sven. Offer low, you can always go up. Good luck.

[gage]

$1500 is good. And if it's a California trailer, shouldn't be much worry about rust. I'd go for it. Even if you put another $1500 into it, you'll still be within good prise range overall.

[Sventinker]

Is there a good thread on here about variations in build or were they all identical?

[Pam Garlow]

Sven, They were built pretty standard, for the rental market. Normally they'd have a front bench with a fold up bunk/backrest. Some have rock guards over fixed pane front window, some don't.
The kitchen was a cooktop and sink, with icebox below the cooktop. A stainless hood went over the cooktop. The furnace would be in the closet next to the door and above that would be the closet. The back dinette is 'U' shape with a table that drops down to provide the base for the bed. The 3 windows in this area should be sliders. Cooling was via a 'swamp cooler' on the roof. Essentially this is an evaporative cooler, not very useful in humid climates. Many people replace them with crank up vents or powered vent fans.
Electrical would be 12v and 110, with a combo 110 electrical plug and 15 amp gfi circuit breaker at one side of the upper kitchen cupboard. Mine has a 12V fluorescent over the closet, and before I removed it, there was a 110 fluorescent under the kitchen cabinet over the sink.
Torsion axle was standard with sealed bearings, and a 'proprietary' set up for the hub and rims (which prevented theft of the tires while being rented.). So you are limited to using the UH rims with the hubs, or else replace with a new axle which gives you the freedom to use other rims.
Welcome to the group, and good luck on the purchase. We'd love to see photos also we just love pictures of Eggs!

[Sventinker]

This community Reminds me of a split bus forum I belong to only here you guys are much nicer. Thanks for all the help.

[keekers]

Sven,
If $1500 is even a being discussed price--SNAG IT!!

[Pam Garlow]

Originally Posted by keekers

Sven,
If $1500 is even a being discussed price--SNAG IT!!

Let us know what happens!!

[Green Frog]

Because they're about 30 years old now, each example is a law unto itself due to differences in condition. I will say that I looked long and hard to find my '83 Burro (which is basically the same shell) and drove all the way from VA to IL to get a solid one for $2500, and that was without wiring, most of the interior gone or disconnected, and no stove, fridge or furnace - just a solid shell with new floor, and restored frame and running gear. That said, once you have a solid base to work from, the rest is pretty easily accomplished, but that solid base is what you have to look for (or plan to achieve first thing.)

Froggie