U Haul CT 13 in Northwest Ga - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 01-01-2013, 11:59 AM   #21
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Chris, the table pole is a standard RV pole about $6 at an RV dealer. The length is the same as the distance between the two rear seats. The bunk poles are just steel pipe.
Thanks. I'm gonna hit Three Way in Kennesaw / Acworth and pick one up. Can someone post a detailed shot of how the bunk poles attach and the length. Now to hook up batterie and try out the heater and stove.
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Old 01-01-2013, 12:33 PM   #22
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Thanks. I'm gonna hit Three Way in Kennesaw / Acworth and pick one up. Can someone post a detailed shot of how the bunk poles attach and the length. Now to hook up batterie and try out the heater and stove.
Originally there were two U shaped brackets on the bottom of the top bunk. The pipe has a hole near the top and a small rod goes through the two holes in the U bracket to capture the top of the pipe. This allows the pipe to fold when the top bunk is folded down to make a couch back. The bottoms of the two pipes rest in chrome depressions in the top of the seat compartments. The pipe length is from the bottom of the bunk to these depressions.
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Old 01-01-2013, 06:42 PM   #23
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Good luck with the heater, it operates on 12 volts but seems to require a full charge to open the gas valve. Ours was so unreliable that I removed it, made the space into slide out storage, and use an electric heater when we have power available. Also the wall next to the heater, toward the trailer rear, got real hot.
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Old 01-01-2013, 07:04 PM   #24
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The group 29 deep cycle I have will not fit in the box. So I have to find a smaller one for it. Looks like everything is 12 volt and everything works. I haven't attempted to fire the heater yet. I have a full propane bottle but until I can check for leaks it's not getting turned on. Gonna get the smoke detector replaced as well as a carbon monoxide detected installed. I do like the idea of it being built in but a small 110 unit wouldn't be to bad either. I'm not sure I will be using it when I need much heat so it most likely will not see much use if it does work. Thanks for the heads up on how it works.
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Old 01-01-2013, 08:27 PM   #25
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The Uhaul repair manual is in the document center here and has a wiring diagram for the furnace. When the thermostat is turned up the fan will run first. The fan activates a sail switch, that causes the control circuit to open the gas valve. Typically insects will get into the exhaust pipe and build nests, they should be cleaned out. Tom had a good idea of using a sink drain screen to keep them out. I had pulled out the igniter electrodes, vacuumed out loose material in the chamber, and adjusted the spark gap. The furnace puts out a lot of heat fast but can be noisy. I have no regrets for junking our furnace, the storage space is much more valuable to us.
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Old 01-02-2013, 08:58 AM   #26
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So far my UHaul furnace works great, but if it died, I think I'd go with a catalytic LP gas furnace that takes no electricity, augmented with a little 120 volt cube heater for when AC power is available.
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Old 01-02-2013, 01:05 PM   #27
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Welcome Chris, I bought my uhaul ct-13 back in August. So I'm a relatively new owner too. I'm over in Athens. I look forward to hearing your input on part numbers. I had to do some work on leaks and the floor before mine was ready to take out. Electrical is probably the next thing I'll dig into.

I don't think my heater had been used in many years, I was able to get it working pretty easy, turn on the gas for a little bit and then it cranked right up. I used it in Nov at Hard Labor Creek with the family and it heated well.

Good luck with yours!
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Old 01-02-2013, 08:36 PM   #28
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I found that a standard size RV pole was too small for the hole recessed into the floor. It was sloppy loose. You may want to check it out on your camper for fit. Also, I had the bunk in mine and removed it because when the bunk is in the 'down' position, the couch is uncomfortably shallow to sit on. If you don't need the bunk to sleep kids in, you may be happier with just the couch up front.
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Old 01-02-2013, 08:41 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by knighth001 View Post
Welcome Chris, I bought my uhaul ct-13 back in August. So I'm a relatively new owner too. I'm over in Athens. I look forward to hearing your input on part numbers. I had to do some work on leaks and the floor before mine was ready to take out. Electrical is probably the next thing I'll dig into.

I don't think my heater had been used in many years, I was able to get it working pretty easy, turn on the gas for a little bit and then it cranked right up. I used it in Nov at Hard Labor Creek with the family and it heated well.

Good luck with yours!
I spend a week in Athens each year for training. Stay on the Bogart side. Lots of good places to eat over there. I didn't let the gas stay on for but a few minutes because the regulator is leaking. I got a new regulator today and a new leg for the table. $32 bucks and I have enough parts to keep me busy for a few hrs. Floor in mine is a little soft but I did see a pic of one with hardwood floor that looked sweet! Don't remember where it was but I like that real good.
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Old 01-02-2013, 08:48 PM   #30
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I found that a standard size RV pole was too small for the hole recessed into the floor. It was sloppy loose. You may want to check it out on your camper for fit. Also, I had the bunk in mine and removed it because when the bunk is in the 'down' position, the couch is uncomfortably shallow to sit on. If you don't need the bunk to sleep kids in, you may be happier with just the couch up front.
Pole fits good so I'm on my way. Looks much better with the table in place. Just got to get busy building mounts for the bunk poles. I have a nephew wi a small child that might use t from time to time. The PO has a set of cushions made to replace the bunk. They are nice. That's a good point there.
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Old 01-02-2013, 09:07 PM   #31
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I spend a week in Athens each year for training. Stay on the Bogart side. Lots of good places to eat over there. I didn't let the gas stay on for but a few minutes because the regulator is leaking. I got a new regulator today and a new leg for the table. $32 bucks and I have enough parts to keep me busy for a few hrs. Floor in mine is a little soft but I did see a pic of one with hardwood floor that looked sweet! Don't remember where it was but I like that real good.
Due to the leaks and the bad choice of carpet (not original) that was laid in mine, it smelled pretty bad and the carpet was in bad shape. The actual floor underneath was in ok shape. I put in Allure Ultra flooring from Home Depot. It's a waterproof, vinyl plank and went in pretty easy. I like the look and the ease of cleaning over carpet. Was not cheap though.
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Old 01-02-2013, 10:02 PM   #32
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That's a nice looking floor. And like you said. Clean and doesn't hold wet or smells!
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Old 01-05-2013, 07:23 PM   #33
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Well I found the original curtains in one of the compartments today! Got out the soap and the hose and gave it a bath. The green slime didn't all come off but it is much better now. Thanks so much for all the help and replies so far. Still got a long way to go but I'm on track to have it camp ready soon. Here are a couple of shots of the inside.

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Old 01-05-2013, 07:27 PM   #34
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The previous owner cut out for a magic chef fridge which I have one of to go back in and for a window unit under the front seat that I don't have one for. S I will Mack a hatch for that area for now and get the fridge in some time next week or so. It has been open for a couple of days and the musty closed up camper smell is going away.

It's time to address the leaks in the side windows and the door. They all leak pretty bad so I need to know it there is a seal kit for them or can I get them individually?
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Old 01-05-2013, 07:35 PM   #35
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It's time to address the leaks in the side windows and the door. They all leak pretty bad so I need to know it there is a seal kit for them or can I get them individually?
Chris, read this thread.

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...ows-42722.html
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Old 01-05-2013, 07:39 PM   #36
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There's also some info and discussion in this thread
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...ows-54255.html
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Old 01-05-2013, 07:55 PM   #37
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Great info on the windows. I was looking to take it to a local RV dealer but I think I will give it a shot myself. Thanks for the great links.
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Old 01-05-2013, 08:02 PM   #38
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I replaced my rear window with a new one from Scamp. Another member here is working with a window manufacturer to custom make new side windows the correct size for the opening. I believe they will be the clamp ring type, not like the originals mounted in rubber weatherstrip. I installed a new side window from Scamp but had to make an adapter to decrease the opening size.
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Old 01-05-2013, 10:11 PM   #39
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I replaced my rear window with a new one from Scamp. Another member here is working with a window manufacturer to custom make new side windows the correct size for the opening. I believe they will be the clamp ring type, not like the originals mounted in rubber weatherstrip. I installed a new side window from Scamp but had to make an adapter to decrease the opening size.
Hope I can get the windows in there to work and to stop leaking. Thanks for the info on the alternate. The man at the RV store said that there is a company that will reproduce the windows to any specs. Www.all-rite.com I think is what he said. Might try them if you are looking for a custom size like what's in the U Haul CT and VT.
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Old 01-06-2013, 10:01 AM   #40
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Hope I can get the windows in there to work and to stop leaking. Thanks for the info on the alternate. The man at the RV store said that there is a company that will reproduce the windows to any specs. Www.all-rite.com I think is what he said. Might try them if you are looking for a custom size like what's in the U Haul CT and VT.
There are several sources for custom windows, but the prices are pretty high. As mentioned, there is an eBay seller that claims to make make custom windows cheaper, and we are waiting to see if that pans out.
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