1977 13-foot electrical

[Borden]

We still have original 15 amp unit it works so why fix it.

The 30amp adapter gordon2 mentioned is in our camping kit as we have needed it.

The cord we use is 100' and rated for 20 amp 12 gauge, 2433 watts but trailer draw is 15 amps as usual. We have second backup cord that is only 15amp 1825 watts and a 30amp 10 gauge cord as well but it is not that long; extra watts could be useful.

30amp 3650 watts is over our needs.

We go through a quality home surge protractor that has a 15amp breaker.
A Lee Valley water tight exterior power station box the holds the surge unit and into trailer cord. (sits under trailer rear)
The trailer has a 120v 15amp breaker first and then goes into the converter for 12v and battery charging system.

We have considered having a Y connection for an extra AC plug, using outdoor cord too other side of trailer. This would have meant possibly a heavier cord and/or second surge unit in box.

Currently will setup a new wall unit to go direct in with cord at wall instead of pulling out the cord through wall then through the surge unit to the 15amp breaker and then converter unit inside trailer instead of using box outside. Just seems better.

Cord is 20 amp 12 gauge so could make a small change inside. Would allow us to use a toaster and a few lights lol counter. Kitchen 110 plug is through main system and only works shore power.

Idea:
Connect a 20 amp main breaker inside first
Connect two 15 amp breakers next to main 20 amp breaker
Connect two surge protectors to the 15 amp breakerss
Run first surge unit to its own 110v plug outlet
Run second surge unit to the main system.

20 amp breaker would protect cord draw limit and 15amp units would protect main system and outlet from drawing over inside 15amp limits.

[Borden]

Have recently purchase the wall unit to end need to pull cord out of wall.
Will fiberglass in the hole to make it the correct size and then wire things up.

P.S. have wired houses but understand trailer requirements are different.

[courtney]

Originally Posted by gordon2

As for the inverter.. what is on the other end of the two cords with the orange and yellow plugs? Does the outlet have power at all without anything plugged in (shore or inverter)? Its hard to decipher whats going on here but it almost sounds like the yellow plug cord goes to the bench outlet is is basically just a short extension cord. And the orange plug cable might be supplying the power to the outlet (reverse of normal). If that is correct it is BAD because the prongs on the orange plug would be energized and a serious shock hazard.

The floor-mounted outlet box next to the inverter is wired through the old existing outer under the sink which is connected to the original breaker box.

The cord with the yellow plug is run through the trailer floor and connects to the negative battery terminal.

The cord with the orange plug runs to the outlet on the wall of the bunk bench.

Run with both plugs into the floor-mounted outlet, the adjacent bunk-mounted outlet runs on AC.

If you move the orange plug from the floor-mounted outlet to the inverter, the adjacent bunk-mounted outlet runs on DC.

[courtney]

Originally Posted by gordon2

I'm talking about the 12 volt charge line from the converter to the battery.. your new one likely will send more power to the battery in the bulk charging stage. What gauge wire is there now?[/url]

There is no converter currently installed. The PD 4135 that I will be installing contains a converter.

[courtney]

Thanks to all who gave input re: 15A vs 30A shore power cord choice. Since I’m making major changes anyway, I decided to go with a 30A shore cord. Will install a 30A main breaker. Getting rid of mouse hole.

Would like continued input to the current inverter set up, pictured and explained in the post above this one.

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by courtney

The floor-mounted outlet box next to the inverter is wired through the old existing outer [do you mean outlet??] under the sink which is connected to the original breaker box.

The cord with the yellow plug is run through the trailer floor and connects to the negative battery terminal.

The cord with the orange plug runs to the outlet on the wall of the bunk bench.

Run with both plugs into the floor-mounted outlet, the adjacent bunk-mounted outlet runs on AC.

If you move the orange plug from the floor-mounted outlet to the inverter, the adjacent bunk-mounted outlet runs on DC.

Attachment 142410

This is still not clear, although there are fewer pieces of the puzzle missing.

Perhaps the yellow plug is providing negative DC battery power to the inverter. But how is the inverter getting power from the positive side of the battery? Maybe the floor mounted outlet is being used for both 120 VAC and 12 VDC .. thats bad but if its only negative then not as bad as being full 12 VDC power in a 120 VAC outlet.

I think you need to disassemble the floor mounted outlet and trace some wires inside. Maybe the orange plug also and see if only one wire is connected. Where is the DC input on the inverter and how is it connected?

In one of your photos I see just a little of what looks to be a red wire and fuse...(green arrow)- connected to the inverter I would bet. What about the other end? straight to the battery maybe? Is it fused near the battery? How long is the run from the battery to the inverter (or anything else) before there is a fuse?

In any event I suspect that much of this will need to be redone.

[courtney]

Yes, I meant “outlet.”

Here’s the manual link: https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....1Oz36lxOWL.pdf

And relevant screenshots:

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by courtney

..
Here’s the manual link...

Questions remain:
Describe the wiring to the inverter input. Disassemble, inspect and describe the wiring in the floor mounted outlet and the orange plug.

[gordon2]

Instead of looking at what you have, here is what I would do if starting from scratch:

Use less than ten feet of 1 AWG wire from battery to inverter with a Blue Seas 135 amp DC circuit breaker on the positive wire.

Locate the inverter inside the camper as close to battery as possible. If you can’t get to it easily wherever that location is then use the remote control to turn it on and off and use a short extension cord / power strip from the inverter’s AC outlets. It sounds like that is basically what you have now with the bench mounted outlet and cord with the yellow plug. Just leave it plugged into the inverter full time. Toss the hidden floor mounted AC outlet.

Actually I lied...what I would really do is remove the inverter and list it on Ebay. Make coffee and cook on the stove, let you hair air dry, and use 12 volt chargers for cell phones, etc. We have not even mentioned the battery size and if its the size and type on most Scamps it wont last long powering and inverter for things like a coffee maker.

[BolerMike]

With the number of AC outlets you are planning to keep the 30A set up makes the most sense and I believe is the safest option. Obviously it would be best to keep in mind that when you're plugged in to 15A you have to watch what your draw so you don't have to run outside in your pajamas to reset the breaker.

Also regarding the weirdness of your current inverter I suggest you toss it - gut the wiring and design your own system - then you know exactly how everything works (no more weirdness). It also might be good idea to draw up a schematic that you can pass on with the trailer should you decide to sell it (or not - deciphering a PO's work can be fun too).

Lastly you mentioned that you wanted to use solder connections; this is not standard and for good reason. People think it provides a more conductive and durable electrical connection and it does work but it is actually less durable than crimp connectors particularly where vibration/flexing may be an issue - heat shrink crimp connectors are standard (the best?) for automotive and marine use.

Jeff Cote P.Eng explains his methodology here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tidzK-VZ3oo

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZO7BPh3RxWA&t=446s

He also has videos on a plethora of marine electrical subjects (solar, batteries, inverters/converters etc.)

Good Luck and Have Fun