2003 21RB Bigfoot Fridge 12V Source? - Fiberglass RV

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Old 12-03-2017, 01:15 PM   #1
Name: Stu
Trailer: Bigfoot
Posts: 42
Exclamation 2003 21RB Bigfoot Fridge 12V Source?

Hope someone out there can help My fridge stopped working. It was working a few weeks ago. I checked the 12V terminal block at the back of fridge and I don't have power. I don't see a fuse or connection for the fridge at the 12V load center. Where does the 12V that feeds the fridge come from on this trailer? Thanks!

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Old 12-03-2017, 05:58 PM   #2
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Name: Mike
Trailer: Bigfoot 17' DLX
Posts: 382
I don't know what the power converter looks like on a 2003 but the one on my 1989 BF had a fuse block for all the 12v circuits. The far left fuse (all standard automotive ATC blade fuses) was for everything in the kitchen.

Have you verified for certain that this is only a 12v issue? Does the fridge work on shore power or propane?


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Old 12-03-2017, 09:37 PM   #3
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Name: Jack L
Trailer: Sold the Bigfoot 17-Looking for a new one
Posts: 1,468
There may be a fuse in a separate in line fuse holder in the harness between the converter and where the harness comes into the trailer. Also, some refrigerators require 12 volt power to run when in propane or 120Volt mode.
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Old 12-04-2017, 12:36 AM   #4
Name: Stu
Trailer: Bigfoot
Posts: 42
Yes, my fridge requires 12V whether on gas or 120V. The right side (12V) of trainjunkie's load center looks just like mine. Is one of those fuses for the 12 V to the fridge? I should probably check all of them next (tomorrow). Thanks for the help so far...
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Old 12-04-2017, 02:53 AM   #5
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Name: Dave
Trailer: Casita SD17 2006 "Missing Link"
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Stu, ATC fuses are pretty easy to see if their broken unlike the old glass fuses but I did have one once that I'd have bet money on that was good by looks....until I checked it with a multimeter...bad. Now if I have a question of any fuse I use a meter. I'm sure you knew that but just wanted to mention it as there have been a few newbies to fuses that post "the fuses look good", maybe they'll see this. Without having a meter, changing them out, one by one with a known working/equal value fuse will also determine if the pulled one is good and quicker too.
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Old 12-04-2017, 07:42 AM   #6
Name: Stu
Trailer: Bigfoot
Posts: 42

Copy that. They all looked good but I'll re-check with my meter. I guess what's throwing me off is that none of them are marked for the fridge. From the Dometic service manual, it's supposed to be very important to have a dedicated "clean" source of power for the fridges controller (?). Thanks.
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Old 12-04-2017, 12:49 PM   #7
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Name: Francois
Trailer: Bigfoot
British Columbia
Posts: 1,157

first I feel your "pain"...when I first got my trailer...97BF17CB... the electrical lay-out was very frustrating to me....the way it's done makes it virtually impossible to trace wires...everything is bundled up and fastened to the floor....then the rest of the trailer is built over all that "mess".....

a few points that might help:

when Dometic refers to "clean" power they mean power coming directly from the battery (ies) ALL THE TIME ( not from converter,trailer plugged into shore power or not)

"clean" power is required/suggested for electronic appliances like televisions and radios because converter power can produce hum/noise in those appliances. Magnatec power centers include a certain number of "clean" power circuits. On mine there is three...located to the right side of the board...only one is currently used to power the 12V plug intended for a television (red wire in pic of fuse board)

in my trailer that circuit does NOT power the fridge....the wires that power the fridge are fairly big (it's a three way fridge and could be run solely on 12V when it came out of the factory)

BF uses quick connectors EXTENSIVELY in their wiring....as said before it's all hooked up and then bundled, fastened to the floor.

my trailer has a "main fuse" just as the wiring enters the trailer through the floor....in your case, if your trailer was plugged in it is conceivable that you would have power everywhere (from the converter) and not have power at the fridge if this fuse (barrel type, in a plastic holder) was blown....

in my trailer I am guessing / come to the conclusion that between this main fuse and the power center there is a quick connector somewhere on the wires....and that is how the fridge is then powered....

good luck to you.....by the time you figure this one out you'll be an "expert" on BF wiring.....LOL..."what doesn't kill ya will make you stronger"....cheers, F
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Old 12-08-2017, 07:04 PM   #8
Name: Stu
Trailer: Bigfoot
Posts: 42
Update - I figured it out. There is battery disconnect (I think it might be after market) with the remote switch by the door. I could hear the relay and located it mounted in the front storage locker on the port side:

Fuse block next to it for stereo, LPG and FRIDGE!!!! Replaced 3A fuse and good to go! Thanks to all those who tried to help me!

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