Mike,
Good post.
In the quest for the simplest way of understanding energy loads of electric heating, I try to measure it this way:
The amp draw of the load. Say 1200 watts at 120 volts (typical electric heater), looks like this: Watts over volts = amps. So 1200 watts over 120 volts = 10 amps. 1200 watts = approx. 4095 BTUs
12 volt to 120 volt conversion, including inverter losses of 10% results in a 12 volt
battery amp draw of the 120 volt amps X 11 for the DC
battery load. So, 10 amps at 120 volts X 11 = 110 amps load on the 12 volt
battery.
A 220 amp hour battery should only be drawn down to 50% of it's rated amp hours. So, 220 amp hours divided by 2 (50%) =110 amp hours available.
So, from the previous calculation that the load was 110 amps, and now seeing that the available total capacity of the battery is 110 amps, the load can only be applied for one hour max. This means the heater can only be run for one
hour, and that might be too much because battery capacity is reduced even further when a heavy load is placed on it. You might only get 45 minutes from that battery to reach 50% discharge. This is why running an electric heater on batteries is impractical.
Propane tanks have much more energy stored.
To get an idea of how much heat BTUs represent, connect (4) 75 watt 120 volt incandescent
light bulbs (300 watts total), which give off about 90% of the energy they consume in heat. That'll give you about 270 watts of heat, or about 920 BTUs. This will give you an idea of how much practical heat it represents in the trailer. Not much.
The electric heater in the example = 4095 BTUs continuously. The 12 volt driven electric heater = 920 BTUs for one hour.
Bottom line: Not much heat, or heat for only an hour. Impractical.