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03-15-2013, 07:18 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Name: Linda
Trailer: '77 Scamp
California
Posts: 630
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'77 Scamp Electrical Help Needed
I'm slowly working my way through my Scamp to-do list. Today I spent the day replacing the 12v wiring to my new LED lights and 12v recepticles. All went well, but I'm puzzled about the 2 posts under the sink. Why is this here and should I leave it alone? I guess my chief concern is risk of electical shock.
Also, I'm going to be installing a 100w solar panel next week. If I attach the solar controller to these two posts, can I charge and regulate the battery? I had planned to attach solar the standard way, directly to my battery, but just a thought that this would be an easier install if it would work. I'm clueless!
Also, I've attached pix of the 120w box. Its not pretty but everthing i working fine. Should I replace it or would it be okay to leave it alone? Any advice is appreciated.
I'm having trouble uploading the pictures, so it may take me a little while.
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03-15-2013, 07:25 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Name: Linda
Trailer: '77 Scamp
California
Posts: 630
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Pictures of 12v posts under the sink. Why oh why???
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03-15-2013, 07:31 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Name: Linda
Trailer: '77 Scamp
California
Posts: 630
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120v--Change or leave it alone?? You know what they say: if it ain't broken...
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03-15-2013, 08:02 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Name: bob
Trailer: 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
Posts: 5,434
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If those 12 volt posts are on fiberglass then they are insulated from each other, but it's also possible some metal object could touch them both causing a short. Looks like someone's home made setup. I'd eliminate them and do something better.
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03-15-2013, 08:23 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Name: Mike
Trailer: 2001 Spirit Deluxe 17" K5NAN
Texas
Posts: 688
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Just as a first intuitive guess is that someone set it up so an internal 12vdc supply or charger could be connected to it using alligator clips that are some times used on chargers??????? IF you have your battery connected do you read 12vdc with a test light or voltmeter?
__________________
Mike
K5NAN
"Miss Adventures"
If you Rest, You Rust
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03-15-2013, 08:45 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Name: Linda
Trailer: '77 Scamp
California
Posts: 630
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GMike A
Just as a first intuitive guess is that someone set it up so an internal 12vdc supply or charger could be connected to it using alligator clips that are some times used on chargers??????? IF you have your battery connected do you read 12vdc with a test light or voltmeter?
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That's what I thought too Mike. Don't know exactly what you'd hook up inside though?? I haven't checked with a voltmeter, but will do that tomorrow.
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03-15-2013, 08:58 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Name: Randy
Trailer: 1980Trillium 1300
Ontario
Posts: 373
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In your pictures, it seems 2 posts having wires connected there. If I were you, I would have visual inspect to see where those wires leading to. When hook up with towing vehicle, I would use volt meter to check if there is any voltage drop across them (it must be VDC). Besides, I woud have visual inspect to see where those posts housing on, mechanically. If without wires connected in them, just using Ohm meter to see if they are connected each other. It looks like those post were made from DIY project from previous owner for his/her own convenience( like charging battery or using as terminals for out-side source). About 120VAC, if I were you, I would re arrange wires to make them secured and safe also get rid off those wirings which lead...nowhere, for example. Just my opinion...
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03-15-2013, 09:24 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Name: Linda
Trailer: '77 Scamp
California
Posts: 630
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Thanks Randy. I'll trace the wires more thoroughly tomorrow and use my volt meter to figure out what I can. I first thought it was standard Scamp install, but after looking at pictures of other people's under sink areas, decided it was home grown. You can't tell by the picture, but they are quite large, probably 3+ inches. They are really in the way for needed storage. I had some items stored under there, and began thinking it wasn't a good idea because some items are metal. Wondered if they would short out if item touched . Since they're there though, I'm trying to think of any way I can benefit from them. Ideas welcome. I'm womdering if the former owner had a second battery under tne front seat attached to the posts.
I'm in the process of cleaning up the wiring and will be securing and removing wiring that goes no where (like the wound up red wires under the sink).
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03-15-2013, 09:37 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Name: Jared
Trailer: 1984 19' scamp
Kansas
Posts: 1,610
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If I was a betting man, I bet they plugged the camper into 120, left the converter off, and plugged in a trickle charger and hooked it to those.
I'm close to done with replacing all my electrical (most wire included), some of the stuff I've found is just plain ridiculous, and some dangerous.
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03-15-2013, 09:48 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Name: Linda
Trailer: '77 Scamp
California
Posts: 630
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Awww, good thought Jared since there isn't a converter. Maybe his work-around for no converter. Seems to me though it would have been easier to add a converter. I don't know if all '77s came without converters-just wondering???? I bought it from the original owner and I'm very happy with it, but I'm having to learn as I go regarding the electrical system.
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03-15-2013, 09:59 PM
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#11
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Moderator
Trailer: Fiber Stream 1978 / Honda Odyssey LX 2003
Posts: 8,222
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thinh
In your pictures, it seems 2 posts having wires connected there. If I were you, I would have visual inspect to see where those wires leading to. When hook up with towing vehicle, I would use volt meter to check if there is any voltage drop across them (it must be VDC).
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Is it just me, or has anyone else noticed the color? A white wire and a green wire? For 12 volts DC white is usually negative and black (or red) is positive. In 110 volts AC wiring white is neutral, black is hot, and green is ground. I'm confused.
__________________
Frederick - The Scaleman
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03-15-2013, 10:25 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Name: Jared
Trailer: 1984 19' scamp
Kansas
Posts: 1,610
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Otters
Awww, good thought Jared since there isn't a converter. Maybe his work-around for no converter. Seems to me though it would have been easier to add a converter. I don't know if all '77s came without converters-just wondering???? I bought it from the original owner and I'm very happy with it, but I'm having to learn as I go regarding the electrical system.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frederick L. Simson
Is it just me, or has anyone else noticed the color? A white wire and a green wire? For 12 volts DC white is usually negative and black (or red) is positive. In 110 volts AC wiring white is neutral, black is hot, and green is ground. I'm confused.
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Simple answer, people use what they have. I would stick a meter on it and check, but I bet it's 12v. which wire is which, is anybody's guess.
After what I've seen a factory will do, all bets are off.
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03-15-2013, 10:30 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Name: Linda
Trailer: '77 Scamp
California
Posts: 630
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Good eye Frederick. I thought that was strange too. One is green and the second actually looks grey to me. I got out my owner's manual tonight which includes a wiring diagram in hope of figuring out the wiring. Of course the wiring diagram shows green wires are for tail lights. So no clue there. My thought is that when the owner added this, "mod", he used whatever colors he had or were on sale that week.
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03-15-2013, 10:59 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
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Well below is the wiring diagram from mine which is a bit newer but Scamp isnt known for changing much over the years They do show a Green wire running from the 120V breaker box to the converter ground. Also some red wires where used for the TV booster which on mine also has the 12V plug built into it - does the trailer have a 12v plug in it? if not that may be what the red wires under the sink that are wrapped up went to.
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03-15-2013, 11:26 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Name: Linda
Trailer: '77 Scamp
California
Posts: 630
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Thanks for the diagram Carol. It's much more complex than the one I have. My '77 was very basic, and I believe they probably did some additions over time. I have AC plugs, but don't believe there was ever a TV booster. I'll take your diagram with mine to the trailer tomorrow and try to sort through it.
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03-15-2013, 11:49 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Otters
Thanks for the diagram Carol. It's much more complex than the one I have. My '77 was very basic, and I believe they probably did some additions over time. I have AC plugs, but don't believe there was ever a TV booster. I'll take your diagram with mine to the trailer tomorrow and try to sort through it.
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Your welcome. Send me a PM with your email address if you would like a bigger better resolution one. Your trailer may not have had a TV booster but I believe on trailers that dont have the TV booster/12V plug combo they just put in a 12v plug..... could be wrong though.
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03-16-2013, 06:42 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1988 16 ft Scamp Deluxe
Posts: 25,782
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Linda if you need a larger copy of the diagram Carol provided, you can download it from the Document Center here: Fiberglass RV - Document Center - WiringDiagram_Scamp
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
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03-16-2013, 08:29 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Name: Randy
Trailer: 1980Trillium 1300
Ontario
Posts: 373
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Electrical
...Here is what my long time teacher told me regarding to ELECTRICAL STUFFS: DO not believe what you HEARD AND ONLY BELIEVE... A HALF OF WHAT YOU SEE...Test, test, and...test. Check, check and....check. Just a quote for fun into any attemp of repair/modification...ect. Thanks for reading.
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03-16-2013, 11:54 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Name: Linda
Trailer: '77 Scamp
California
Posts: 630
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[QUOTE=Thinh;369992 DO not believe what you HEARD AND ONLY BELIEVE... A HALF OF WHAT YOU SEE...Test, test, and...test. Check, check and....check.[/QUOTE]
And THAT is probably the best advice ever given on the forum. The best thing is I'm learning as I'm doing. They say that learning new things is the best thing to prevent dementia. I know I have posted many dumb questions on the forum, but I always get smart answers. Thank you all!
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03-16-2013, 10:12 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Name: Linda
Trailer: '77 Scamp
California
Posts: 630
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Update
I did my investigation today as everyone suggested. The 2 posts are indeed remote battery terminals. The green is pos and white is neg. They go only to the battery. I hooked up my float charger under the sink which is an easy way to do it. I don't have to leave the battery box open now.
The rats nest of wires under the sink go from the 6 pin connector for TV to the trailer exterior travel lights. A couple of wires (the red one) were replaced and instead of removing the old wires, they just left them, and taped the ends. I cleaned up the wiring and I feel much better about the state of the wiring.
So now I'd like to get your thoughts on using those remote battery terminals located under the sink, and attach the solar controller to it. Is that as efficient as connecting directly to the battery?
Thanks in advance everyone.
Linda
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