amperage boost? - Fiberglass RV
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Old 10-22-2020, 12:37 PM   #1
tjw
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Name: tony
Trailer: shopping
California
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amperage boost?

i am pulling a scamp 13 with a 2019 Volvo xc60 which has a trailer module that seems to limit the amperage to the trailer. So i cant run my 12v fridge while driving as it draws too much power to recharge the battery. NO problem with charging when fridge is off; and no problem with my previous car (subaru), with fridge on!

Volvo says i'll void the warranty if i run a power line directly to the battery.

So is there anyway to boost output amperage without screwing around with the Volvo module?
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Old 10-22-2020, 12:50 PM   #2
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Tony, you might get more replyís if you tried a Volvo forum. The power management on these new vehicles is very complicated. These vehicle specific forums often have technicians from a dealership providing advice.
Most owners run the fridge on propane when towing, if you have that option itís probably a better solution.
Good luck, Bob
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Old 10-22-2020, 12:59 PM   #3
tjw
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Thanks

Thanks bob

Is it ok to run fridge on propane while driving? No safety problem?
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Old 10-22-2020, 01:16 PM   #4
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Some places, like a ferry, refueling etc it has to be turned off. Just driving on the highway itís very common. The propane works much better than the 12v anyways.
Enjoy, Bob
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Old 10-22-2020, 01:21 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by tjw View Post
Thanks bob

Is it ok to run fridge on propane while driving? No safety problem?
Been discussed hundreds of times before. Some think it is safe, others think it’s unsafe. One can argue that running it on 12volt is not 100% safe either. Google some of the endless arguments on this topic and then decided for yourself. Don’t count on running it on 12v with that Volvo.

One can also argue that camping is not 100% safe.
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Old 10-22-2020, 01:26 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by thrifty bill View Post
Been discussed hundreds of times before. Some think it is safe, others think itís unsafe. One can argue that running it on 12volt is not 100% safe either. Google some of the endless arguments on this topic and then decided for yourself. Donít count on running it on 12v with that Volvo.

One can also argue that camping is not 100% safe.

Keeping in mind that there is no law saying you can't run fridge on propane while driving. That would really mess up those commercial refrigerated trucks and portable morgues.
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Old 10-22-2020, 01:49 PM   #7
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That would really mess up those commercial refrigerated trucks and portable morgues.
Small refrigerated trucks use a compressor belt-powered by the motor. Large refrigerated trucks and trailers use a small diesel motor to run the compressor. I haven't been able to find an example of a refrigerated truck that uses propane for running the compressor. It's possible that may come as diesel motors fall out of favor.
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Old 10-22-2020, 02:39 PM   #8
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As for the lie that Volvo told you.. Toyota told me about the same. Apparent these dealers and reps dont know about the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act (or they do and hope that you dont know about it). The brief version is that your modification will not void the warranty coverage unless they can show that the modification caused the problem that is covered by the warranty. And a wire from the battery (fused at the battery) to the trailer, and not otherwise involved in vehicle wiring, has almost zero chance of causing a problem. Even if they do prove that your mod caused a failure, the rest of the vehicle that is not affected or altered still has full warranty coverage.

I hear that RV fridges on propane stay lit better if the vent(s) are on the starboard side, instead of the port side where the wind is higher from passing vehicles on two lane roads.
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Old 10-22-2020, 04:51 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by tjw View Post
Volvo says i'll void the warranty if i run a power line directly to the battery.

So is there anyway to boost output amperage without screwing around with the Volvo module?
I guess Volvo is saying that you can never jump start the car, or another car from yours, or add any accessories of any kind, that connect to the battery. Ridiculous.

If you add a 50 amp Anderson plug at the rear, and wire it to the battery with #6 plus and minus wires, with a circuit breaker next to the battery, the charging system will not be affected. Disconnecting the battery, while it is under load and the car running can hurt the electronics, but not adding a load.

An Anderson plug at the rear bumper is the best way to add more power to your trailer. It will aggressively charge the trailer battery and carry a much heavier load than the small charging wire in the seven pin plug.

Then, you'll have a second pigtail that goes directly to the trailer battery and gets plugged in at the same time as the regular pigtail. It can also be used to plug a portable solar system into the trailer. Or pull 12 volts directly from the trailer battery to run a tool, or electric tongue jack. Or plug a solar system into the tow vehicle to charge its battery. A very useful addition.

Here is a picture of mine:
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