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Old 03-09-2017, 02:48 PM   #21
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Name: Eric
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I bought this one last week plus a solar panel

MotoMaster Nautilus Ultra Group 24 AGM Deep Cycle Battery | Canadian Tire
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Old 03-09-2017, 02:49 PM   #22
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We boon dock mostly and have a very large laptop computer. TV is a small 12 v unit. Other 110 items we only take or use with shore hookup.
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Old 03-09-2017, 02:51 PM   #23
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HAWKBOLER72 We have same in agm group 27; it is our backup from Canadian Tire as well.
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Old 03-09-2017, 07:34 PM   #24
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A 3000 watt inverter is really only rated for 1500 watts continuous, so is not really overkill if he's wanting to use a small microwave (800w) or something similar.
They only draw .4A when powered up/no load, not a deal breaker if he shuts it off when not in use. With onboard charging this is a doable system.
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Old 03-09-2017, 08:39 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman View Post
A 3000W inverter??? Are you trying to change the laws of physics? At 3000w the battery would have to supply approximately 250 amps. Typical trailer battery is around 100 amp hours. Dead battery in less than 15 minutes. Bad idea.
Like was said above got to somebody that knows what they're doing.....
:thanks Byron, we run on 3 batteries for our MH and one for the chassis we have found a 1000W inverter does it all just fine, he could get buy with a 500W inverter just fine. if one goes to the Library he can find all he needs to know or any home renovation store will sell him a electrical book that will teach him all he needs to know.
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Old 03-09-2017, 11:57 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by real550A View Post
A 3000 watt inverter is really only rated for 1500 watts continuous, so is not really overkill if he's wanting to use a small microwave (800w) or something similar.
They only draw .4A when powered up/no load, not a deal breaker if he shuts it off when not in use. With onboard charging this is a doable system.
800W hmmm --- 800/12= 66 amps. Which doesn't include the loss for efficiency of the inverter.
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Old 03-10-2017, 07:29 AM   #27
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Not trying to minimize the fact that a microwave is a large amp draw. Considering the fact that most use theirs for reheating leftovers, or advance prepared meals, you have to factor in the run time of the oven. 2-10 minutes will not grenade your battery, and as I mentioned, onboard charging, or charge while driving will more than handle it.
The live aboard boaters use microwaves frequently without major issues. Just make sure your battery and inverter are of sufficient size, which is basic to most RV systems.
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Old 03-10-2017, 07:47 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by spaghettiroad View Post
Ok. I'll keep the deep cycle battery I got and ditch the 3000 watt AC to DC inverter and look for one smaller. I'd ideally like to run the 12v heater, faucet, 2 internal lights, coffee maker, blow dryer, tv, laptop from 2 ac plugs off the battery or option to plug in at a campsite. Solar is not an option for me...
I keep coming back to the question of how you will keep the battery charged. There are four ways. (1) Plug in. In that case you don't need the inverter. (2) Run a generator. Now you've got to carry gasoline, too (or convert to propane). (3) Charge from the vehicle when driving. Only works if you're moving around a lot, and most vehicle alternators are limited in their charging output. (4) Solar. Why is solar not an option?
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Old 03-10-2017, 08:30 AM   #29
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Totally agree, Jon....that's why I always refer to "onboard charging system". That covers all methods I can think of, and solar should be high on everybody's list. It's not too hard to add a solar charging system to a trailer, and the cost is coming down measurably.
All of these variables need to fit the intended purpose and majority use of the individual unit. A "travel trailer" requires less capabilities than a "live aboard". There's equipment out there to fit almost any demand.
A reheated cup of last night's coffee is all I need to get back on the road in the morning. I'm not going to take the time to brew a fresh pot on the stove, if I want to get on the road. Microwave has its place.
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Old 03-10-2017, 09:37 AM   #30
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...A reheated cup of last night's coffee is all I need to get back on the road in the morning. I'm not going to take the time to brew a fresh pot on the stove, if I want to get on the road. Microwave has its place.
Not in my camper. I would drive off without coffee and look for a coffee shop, McD's or even a gas station before I would drink coffee reheated in a microwave. But that's my own preference, and we're all different. My mother travels in a Class B, and she's never used the stove- microwave only! Kind of funny- we camped together at a state park but stayed in two different loops. She stayed in the "trailer park" loop with full hookups and we stayed in the primitive loop with larger sites, mature vegetation, and more privacy. Guess where we spent most of our time...

We choose to do without household appliances when camping. Coffee made with a cone filter and water boiled on the propane stove is quick and easy. A tablet that can be charged directly off the battery serves for information and entertainment. We've pared our power needs down to lights, occasional furnace use, and recharging personal electronics. The less power you use, the less battery and charging capacity you need.

All the charging methods have costs. Plugging in is a pay-as-you-go solution, due to the added cost of campsites with power. The only generator I would consider is the small Honda. I camped next to one for several days and didn't find it objectionable- they ran it for an hour or two each afternoon to top off the battery- no noticeable smell and minimal noise. But it's very expensive, popular with thieves, and I hate the idea of carrying gas around. Most smaller vehicle alternators are not up to the task of charging a large deep cycle battery, at least from what I've read, so I have hesitated to go to the trouble and expense of adding a charging line. In any case, we usually camp in one place for 3-5 days and then go home, where we plug in and recharge. I keep coming back to solar. A portable suitcase unit should be adequate for our needs. If we plan a longer trip, I will go that route.
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Old 03-10-2017, 09:46 AM   #31
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I keep coming back to the question of how you will keep the battery charged. There are four ways. (1) Plug in. In that case you don't need the inverter. (2) Run a generator. Now you've got to carry gasoline, too (or convert to propane). (3) Charge from the vehicle when driving. Only if you're moving around a lot, and most vehicle alternators are limited in their charging output. (4) Solar. Why is solar not an option?
I think (4) solar is a better option.
(1) is the best if available;
(2) too noisy;
(3) too much demand on the TV.
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Old 03-10-2017, 11:13 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by Jon in AZ View Post
Not in my camper. I would drive off without coffee and look for a coffee shop, McD's or even a gas station before I would drink coffee reheated in a microwave. But that's my own preference, and we're all different. My mother travels in a Class B, and she's never used the stove- microwave only! Kind of funny- we camped together at a state park but stayed in two different loops. She stayed in the "trailer park" loop with full hookups and we stayed in the primitive loop with larger sites, mature vegetation, and more privacy. Guess where we spent most of our time...

We choose to do without any household appliances when camping. A tablet that can be charged directly off the battery serves as computer and TV. We have our power needs reduced to lights, occasional furnace use, and recharging personal electronics. The less power you use, the less battery and charging capacity you need.

All the charging methods have costs. Plugging in is a pay-as-you-go solution, due to the added cost of campsites with power. The only generator I would consider is the small Honda. I camped next to one for several days and didn't find it objectionable- they ran it for an hour or two each afternoon to top off the battery- no noticeable smell and minimal noise. But it's very expensive, popular with thieves, and I hate the idea of carrying gas around. Most smaller vehicle alternators are not up to the task of charging a large deep cycle battery, at least from what I've read, so I have hesitated to go to the trouble and expense of adding a charging line. In any case, we usually camp in one place for 3-5 days and then go home, where we plug in and recharge. I keep coming back to solar. A portable suitcase unit should be adequate for our needs. If we plan a longer trip, I will go that route.
Jon , we are on the same page . When we go camping we are looking for a different experience than at home and don't expect or need all the so called comforts of home . Growing up in the 40's & 50's we got along just fine without all the appliances and electronics that many now conside necessities. If we are able to make simple meals , and have a warm , dry place to sit & sleep , then all is well. We did make one compromise and bought a solar panel for charging our single trailer battery. We own an inverter but it has never been out of the box . A generator has and never will be on our list of must haves
Propane may be old technology but for space heating , cooking , heating water and running our refrigerator it works as well or better than electricity.
As far as electronics , all we carry is a basic phone. We find no need to be constantly connected to social media or the internet ( We are retired)
Others have different comfort levels but we see no reason to haul the whole world along with us when attempting to commune with friends and nature.
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Old 03-10-2017, 07:12 PM   #33
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" But that's my own preference, and we're all different."

It's a wonderful thing!
I live in the woods, away from it all, so camping to accomplish that isn't necessary.
My main use for the Burro is as a bunk house to travel the country, see the sights, and take in a bunch of car shows, air and hydroplane races, etc.
Rolling down the highway in a '57 Chevy, pulling the Burro is a great feeling!
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Old 03-10-2017, 07:52 PM   #34
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Interesting thread...Did I start this? Oh I did. Ok as I see it as long as I shut this 3000 watt power inverter ( got it free) down when not in use I'm good?
Solar power interests me now...I just don't want to permanently install it on the roof?
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Old 03-10-2017, 08:06 PM   #35
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The concept of a microwave in my camper makes me want to gag...12V PROPANE HEATER, 12V SINK, PROPANE STOVE, BASIC DC LIGHTS, MAYBE SMALL FLAT SCREEN ALL POWERED BY OPTIONAL SHORE OR DEEP CYCLE AND I'M GOOD. Should I scale down power inverter to say 1000W? Does it matter? Are the older copper propane lines in there still considred safe?
Thanks
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Old 03-10-2017, 09:19 PM   #36
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I got this one
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00GWCEZ60?...ack_e_404_di_1
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Old 03-11-2017, 09:36 AM   #37
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Here's a setup in a new smaller loaded teardrop. I thought was similar to was I was perhaps thinking. 3000W power inverter.....
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Old 03-11-2017, 09:42 AM   #38
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Work in progress....To use or gut the copper propane lines and go with? .....
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Old 03-11-2017, 09:46 AM   #39
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Heater I found similar to what was removed by previous owner. Tested and works
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Old 03-11-2017, 10:08 AM   #40
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it's your trailer, do what you want. if you're going to do something, do it right. Reasearch it, plan it , and ask for help if you need it. A local RV shop employee might be willing to work with you after hours. Just make sure you have a plan and know the costs first.
this is only my opinion, but I might take these steps:

1)install a converter, preferrably somthing with both AC breakers and DC fuses(if you already have a shore power cord, thats a good start.

2)one of the members here had a really nice fold-up Solar unnit he made with a 100 watt panel, and a long cable so he could park in shade and put the panel in the sun
wire the trailer befor you put everything in place: for DC lighting fans etc: use #14 stranded wire, I like "THHN", as it is very rugged (available at wholesalers). you would need black for Positive wiring, and white for Negative wiring. Run one of each to each device you have from the converter. This size wire allows up to a 15 amp fuse.

3) run #14 NMW from converter to each 110v plug you want(available at wholesaler)this wiring also is good for 15 amps(regular plugs).

4) have an electrician tie it in, use RV rated plugs and boxes

5) Run new copper for your stove, heater and fridge.Usually there is a central line or joint that all other lines go into before the propane regulator
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