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Old 05-15-2006, 11:37 AM   #21
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Quote:
There are some smart converters with a smart add-on that keeps the onboard battery charged. Check with camping world.

Of course, they are higher priced.
That what I installed on the UHaul. This is the newer model but its a GREAT deal on this unit.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Progressive...sspagenameZWDVW


I ripped out the fuse panel off the old unit and mounted it to a plywood base for use with the new unit. I also added a second fuse block for other 12v items.

A.
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Old 05-16-2006, 11:09 PM   #22
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I ripped out the 12VDC fuse panel on my converter and simply wrapped it in some foam -- I didn't replace the converter at all.

However, some converters that Scamp has used also have the 120VAC breakers and the shore power cable end incorporated in the converter box, so that's indeed a horse of a different color.

On my old Jayco 16, the old Magnatek converter didn't even have the 12VDC fuses; they were on a separate base next to it.
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Old 05-17-2006, 10:34 AM   #23
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Here's the inside view of the converter Scamp installed in mine. You can see that 2/3 of the space is taken up with fuses and circuit breakers.
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Old 05-17-2006, 05:37 PM   #24
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I purchased the new converter with the charge wizard from ebay for $125.00. (PD9245C )

Now, as Pete said, the shore power in and the 120 breaker panel and the converter with it's associated fuses, all seem to be closely tied together in my Bigfoot. I'm hopeing that it will not be impossible to replace what I have with this new converter. I am looking forward to being able to plug into shore power when I get home and not have to remember to unplug a few days latter.

If anyone has any sugestions for the installation of the new unit I would welcome the input.

I wish to keep the shore power in and the 120 breakers and only disconnect the converter part of the orig system and replace it with the new.

Paul
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Old 05-17-2006, 08:41 PM   #25
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On my Scamp's original setup, the 120VAC breakers are mounted in a small breaker box under the sink and the shore power cable goes directly to that box. The converter had a short 120VAC cord with 15A plug and was plugged into duplex convenience outlet right below the breaker box.

That might be the simplest way to do it. Home Despot/Lowers should carry a small box.
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Old 05-17-2006, 10:05 PM   #26
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Camping World today had a Vector smart charger on clearance sale for less than $40. I should have bought it, but it's only been a few months since I bought a dumb one used for $30!
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Old 05-18-2006, 04:21 AM   #27
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I like to keep my battery charged fully even at home. Thus when my RV is not in use, I connect an inexpensive "float" charger that will maintain full charge without damaging the battery by over charging. I leave the 'float" charger connected all winter rather than removing the battery, since the battery is a bit of a chore to remove from my Aliner (the Scamp is much more accessible).

The '"float" charger I use is $7.49 from Harbor Freight Tools (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=42292). Be advised, this "float" charger is not intended to charge very quickly if your battery is run down - It could take days, but the charger does have a soild-state circuit that automatically shuts off when the battery reaches full charge.
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Old 05-22-2006, 08:36 PM   #28
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Quote:
I purchased the new converter with the charge wizard from ebay for $125.00. (PD9245C )

Now, as Pete said, the shore power in and the 120 breaker panel and the converter with it's associated fuses, all seem to be closely tied together in my Bigfoot. I'm hopeing that it will not be impossible to replace what I have with this new converter. I am looking forward to being able to plug into shore power when I get home and not have to remember to unplug a few days latter.

If anyone has any sugestions for the installation of the new unit I would welcome the input.

I wish to keep the shore power in and the 120 breakers and only disconnect the converter part of the orig system and replace it with the new.

Paul
Paul:

I'm interested in how the installation of the PD9245C goes; please provide details and pictures when you're putting it in. Thanks!

Dale
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Old 05-22-2006, 08:57 PM   #29
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These are the battery chargers I bought:

http://www.batterymart.com/battery.mv?p=VDC-12117

BatteryMINDer Plus 12 Volt 1.3 Amp
Code: VDC-12117
Price: $49.95

http://www.batterymart.com/battery.mv?p=VDC-12041

BatteryMINDer 12 Volt 4 Amp
Code: VDC-12041
Price: $95.95
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Old 06-13-2006, 04:32 PM   #30
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I noticed where someone had charged up their trailer battery with their new Schumacher in a short time !! Things change over the years, since I started RVing, many years ago, but I was under the impression that a deep cycle battery should not be charged quickly. I have always been careful to only trickle charge mine. Is that no longer necessary ?
Of course back then, you couldn't put a battery on a cement floor, or it would suck the juice out of it , but you can now, as they are made differently.
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Old 07-24-2006, 07:00 AM   #31
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Quote:
I purchased the new converter with the charge wizard from ebay for $125.00. (PD9245C )

Now, as Pete said, the shore power in and the 120 breaker panel and the converter with it's associated fuses, all seem to be closely tied together in my Bigfoot. I'm hopeing that it will not be impossible to replace what I have with this new converter. I am looking forward to being able to plug into shore power when I get home and not have to remember to unplug a few days latter.

If anyone has any sugestions for the installation of the new unit I would welcome the input.

I wish to keep the shore power in and the 120 breakers and only disconnect the converter part of the orig system and replace it with the new.

Paul
Paul, (and other forum contributors)
I would reiterate Patricia Baxter's request for details on your install of the new converter. I bought the same model after reading all of the threads about converters it seemed the better way to go for my 78 trillium. The previous owner had taken out the original converter (progressive dynamics unit), since it was boiling the battery.
I however did not do my homework before getting the #9245, since the old unit has AC output protected by a resettable cb, and the new one (and apparently most modern converters )does not, having only fuses for their DC output and reverse polarity.

In reading my Trillium owners manual, notes from the owner and tracing wires in the egg, It appears I only have DC fuses where the positive lead comes off the battery, and also a fuse block with a couple of fuses where the battery cable enters the egg under the front bunk.

Where the old converter was removed under the gravity propane heater, the owner tied the shore cable directly to the only AC lead there ( orange AC Lumex? ) which from there leads to apparently all the rest of the AC (three outlets and the 3way dometic). 3DC white and 3 DC black were also wire nutted togeter on the output side. Eveything runs ok but...

My thought on getting AC cb protection short of having to buy an RV power panel (too big for the space and too $$$) was to wire the shore cable AC lead to a heavy duty 6 outlet power strip which comes with a 15 amp breaker (same as was in the original converter), and then plug the single orange AC lead with a grounding plug into that as well as plug in the converter, secure everything tightly and ? I realize no filtering of AC for electronics, but did you do it differently or have a different situation? Any other comments from forum members would be gratefully appreciated.

George
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