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12-15-2005, 07:00 PM
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#1
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Member
Trailer: 87 Scamp 13 ft
Posts: 67
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Is it possible to over charge the trailer battery while connected to tow vehicle.
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12-15-2005, 08:02 PM
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#2
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Moderator
Trailer: Fiber Stream 1978 / Honda Odyssey LX 2003
Posts: 8,222
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Joe, would you turn off the "Caps Lock" please?
Thank you.
My experience has been that I do not overcharge. I do not run any equipment in the trailer while I am towing; my fridge is only 2-way and does not have a 12 volt option. I have read here that power from the tow vehicle's altenator (or generator) will just keep up with a refridgerator's battery draw. I think calling it a "charge line" is a misnomer...
__________________
Frederick - The Scaleman
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12-15-2005, 09:36 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1994 20 ft Bigfoot 5th Wheel / Toyota Tacoma SR5
Posts: 229
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It would seem to me that if the tow vehicles battery is not over charged when the trailer is not being towed, that when the trailer is connected, it's battery should not be over charged.
PAUL
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12-16-2005, 12:10 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Trailer: Former Burro owner and fan!
Posts: 9,015
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OK Kids, some people, like my Mother, need to type in caps so they can see what they have typed better. I am almost there myself.
Anyway, thats a good question. Not knowing a TON about auto electric, I am curious how that works myself. I just had my charge line done, and will be using it this week for long periods of time WITH the fridge going. Since I will be staying where there are hook ups, and not having a big fear of the battery dying and leaving me stranded, I can try to remember to check the voltages pre and post tow with fridge going.
I suspect the answer is NO, since I haven't heard of a single person complaining they boiled thier battery from being connected. Folks do it all the time, for thousands of miles.
Now, I have a part deux of this question. I replaced my car battery the other day (It was getting to be that time and I didn't want it to breath it's last breaths on the road, so I did it as a precaution) and I noted the charge line is tapped directly off the positive terminal of my battery, with an inline fuse.
Whats the difference in doing it that way, or tapping off the alternater. I don't remember where I saw it, but it seems I read going from the alternater is really the correct way to do it.
I may be wrong in how they did it, and thats just a new line from the alternater to the battery. I haven't drilled down too deep in there. And when it's 28 degrees out, and it ain't broke.. I don't feel compelled to look.
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12-16-2005, 04:21 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2004 Bigfoot 17 ft ('Beastie')
Posts: 564
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The voltage going to the vehicle battery is regulated by the computer depending on state of charge, etc. You don't want the wire to your trailer battery hooked up directly to the alternator, because that way your trailer battery would definitely overcharge on a long trip. Factory set-ups have a relay which essentially disconnects the charging line to the trailer battery when the ignition switch is off. When the ignition switch is on the vehicle battery and the trailer battery are connected in parallel. If you don't have the relay, you should pull the trailer connector plug when you are using the trailer. Neither battery will overcharge as long as the computer is regulating voltage between the alternator and the batteries.
I learned about this system through a failure of the PCM (computer) in my 1999 Jeep that resulted in a trip to the dealer on a flatbed. Fortunately, it was still under warranty. These modern engines don't run very well when the battery voltage drops to about 7, which mine did. The alternator and the battery were good, but the computer wasn't letting the battery charge. A new PCM solved the problem.
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12-16-2005, 11:46 AM
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#6
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Member
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Quote:
Is it possible to over charge the trailer battery while connected to tow vehicle.
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No more than it would over charge the tow vehicle battery
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12-16-2005, 12:32 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Trailer: 17 ft Casita Spirit Deluxe
Posts: 257
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If the battery was hooked directly to the alternator, and the alternator didn"t have a built in regulator, you could cook the battery and/or the regulator.
Nick
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12-16-2005, 03:17 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Trailer: Scamp
Posts: 7,056
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Chevy recommends that the charge line be connected to the starter terminal. That's high current easy to connect place and goes directly to the battery. I'm sure where the shop connnected my charge line. They did put a solenoid in line. The charge line is disconnected when the ingnition is turned off. This is a little different than an isolator.
As long as the tow vehicle battery is not getting overcharged the trailer battery won't get overcharged.
__________________
Byron & Anne enjoying the everyday Saturday thing.
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12-16-2005, 10:38 PM
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#9
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Member
Trailer: 2005 19 ft Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Posts: 88
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So, is there any way to tell exactly how much charge the battery has (in the trailer, I mean?)
Other than asking at the RV store..........
Christine
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12-16-2005, 11:02 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 4,897
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I have a manual tester which I use.I find it more accurate than gauges.You can buy one at most Auto service centers.
http://nbjindun.en.alibaba.com/product/500...ery_Tester.html
This is the type I use.
__________________
Retired Underground Coal Miner.
Served in Canadian Army (1PPCLI)
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12-17-2005, 10:18 AM
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#11
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Member
Trailer: 2005 19 ft Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Posts: 88
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Thank Chester, I'll tell His Lordship (hubby)
Christine the Battery Queen
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12-17-2005, 03:49 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2002 19 ft Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Posts: 3,640
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Yes,
It's called a Hydrometer. You can get one for less that $10 US. You draw up water from each cell and measure the specific weight and it will tell you just how much charge is in each cell.
If you will wait a day I'm sure the Shutins on this site will give you the complete sicentific facts on how, why, etc this works.
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12-17-2005, 07:39 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2004 Bigfoot 17 ft ('Beastie')
Posts: 564
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Shutins, DM? Hmmmm!
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12-18-2005, 07:58 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1988 16 ft Scamp Deluxe
Posts: 25,708
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Quote:
If you will wait a day I'm sure the Shutins on this site will give you the complete sicentific facts on how, why, etc this works.
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Shutins Why Darwin, are you saying some of us don't have a life
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
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12-18-2005, 11:59 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2002 19 ft Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Posts: 3,640
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You can tell that by the complete sicentific replys to messages. Most people just don't care about the science of keeping a $50 battery charged just how to do it.
In the beginning there was - and it goes on from there.
In 4 wheeler magazine DEC 05, there is an article that stated that desulfation has proven to work over the 10 year test period. I don't need to know what desulfation is, why it happens, etc all I needed to know is that the Victor battery charger that I bought will prevent it and/or reverse it.
Hydrometers have been used since the beginning of the wet cell battery and I don't need to know the science behinfd it. I have been using one for over 50 years and I still use one today. It works.
The shutins will be quick to inform us that the batteries today are sealed and to that I say, I rip toe top off the sealed batteries, fill them with water, charge and desulfate them and get several more years use out of them. I glue the tops back on.
Hay, Merry Christmas to all.
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12-18-2005, 04:45 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2004 Bigfoot 17 ft ('Beastie')
Posts: 564
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Merry Christmas, Darwin. May your batteries always be charged!
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12-18-2005, 04:49 PM
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#17
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Guest
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Hey Darwin:
I, for one, enjoy reading the collective knowlegde these folks have to offer. If it's too much for you, skip over it. I, and many others - judging by the posts, appreciate what's going on here. I'm looking for a fiberglass trailer (Trillium) myself, and need the info to make informed decisions. Not everyone can boast of over 50 years of tech experience. (And therefore don't need help.)
Kick back and enjoy the egg nog. Merry Christmas.
By the way, for those interested in Trillium, and are looking for something to do, check out TrilliumRV.com, under the "Opportunity" tab.
Darwin, Please ignore this opportunity. I don't think it would be for you.
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12-18-2005, 05:51 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2002 21.5 ft Bigfoot / 2003 Chevy Duramax 4x4
Posts: 113
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Persunally, I kinda like those "sicentific replys". Thos foks take the time to esplain stuff, an genneraly have nicer manners, too.
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12-18-2005, 11:17 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Trailer: Former Burro owner and fan!
Posts: 9,015
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Well, I am shutin my trailer right now. Its dark, its wet and I have no satelite reception. I guess I will have to post here instead.
I tested Freds theory yesterday. Left my house with a reading of 12.2 volts. Had frige running on 12v from San Bernardino to Stockton. Landed at 12.5v. So, even if not much, it did a little.
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12-19-2005, 12:12 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Trailer: Casita Spirit Deluxe 2003 16 ft
Posts: 1,899
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What a Hoot! Well, I suppose I'd prefer being a Shut-in considering what appears to be the alternative and I like learning new things. I hope I can measure up some day.
__________________
Without adult supervision...
Quando omni flunkus, moritati.
Also,
I'm a man, but I can change, if I have to, I guess.
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