Blade Fuse Holder Box

[Sebas]

What do you think about 2 Fuse box.

First on Walmart. $24

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Universal...tive/639497128

Second on Amazon $65

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001P6FTHC/...v_ov_lig_dp_it

2 different prices but are similar ...

[Alex Adams]

Blue Sea is for marine applications. All of The buses and fuse clips are tinned, the fuses have a special clip to prevent loosening via vibration and it has all stainless hardware. It allows for 125 amps of power and uses ring or spade for connecting circuits.

The other has stainless steel hardware but doesn't say if terminals all tinned nor does it say anything about retention. It only allows for 100 amps of power and only uses spade for connecting circuits. I also don't know if the Walmart price is in Canadian dollars.

I personally would go with the Blue Sea for the ring connections and special clips. If I want lights to show a blown fuse, I can buy ATC fuses with that built in.

[Casita Greg]

I guess it would largely depend on what it is that you are trying to do. You could provide a little more information than just asking "what we think about it." Do a little more writing to describe what you're thinking, and you may get some better answers to your questions.

[Dave Fish]

Keep in mind that the Wal-Mart seller is a third party, not "Walmart". My Campster came with NO fuses at all. I added a smaller version of the Blue Sea because I trusted the quality based on my research.

[Jack L]

Amazon has lots of other choices.

[Sebas]

Originally Posted by Alex Adams

I personally would go with the Blue Sea for the ring connections and special clips. If I want lights to show a blown fuse, I can buy ATC fuses with that built in.

Thanks. I think ring are important for safety.

[Joe MacDonald]

I used one very similar to this:
http://www.mirageinc.com/content/ima...-6-20_320.jpeg

It's been there over 10 years now, never had a fuse fall out or wire come loose, But I do think ring terminals are better.
If you're drawing 125 amps DC, you won't have enough space to get in the trillium because of the batteries you would need.
Being able to put a label to identify each fuse is a handy feature, when one lets go unexpectedly

[ARVZ]

Please note you can get any of this stuff on Ebay without going through some pretty evil big businesses that abuse their employees and taxpayers.
The American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC) wiring standards could probably be considered the gold standard for RV wiring as well. Components that can handle marine conditions should be durable and safe in an RV.
Ring terminals are very secure, but the connector crimp is also likely to be a weak spot. Use the correct crimper for the connector, follow the directions, and give it a pull test. I like to crimp, solder, then heat shrink any connection. Double heat shrink when needed.
Note that heat shrink comes in a marine version with a waterproof and higher temperature adhesive inside so the heat shrink doesn't just melt off when connections overheat; it also has a higher 3 or 4:1 shrink ratio. Marine heat shrink should definitely be used for battery connections to better seal out acid corrosion.
Fuse boxes come in various configurations of common bus, and individually-powered fuses. A negative bus fuse box is probably what you need for a trailer DC wiring system. Having more fuses in the box than you think you need is cheap insurance as long as the positive power feed wire is sized properly for the entire rated load of the fuse box. Wire sizing tables like this one https://www.bluesea.com/resources/529 allow you to just look up the safe wire size.

Spectro Wire and Cable, https://spectrowireandcable.com/products/ a family-owned business, has great pricing on Type SXL primary wire for DC circuits. SXL is much safer than the usual Type GPT found in auto parts stores. Insulation failure on poor quality Chinesium wire can burn your RV down.

[Thomcat316]

Originally Posted by ARVZ

...crimp, solder, then heat shrink any connection. Double heat shrink when needed.

Not to start a religious war here, but crimp connections, properly supported by either meltwall heat shrink (the sort that comes on heat shrink connectors) or aviation grade insulation supports (don't do it - the right crimp tools are EXPENSIVE) are better off than adding solder, which can move the "hard point" of the joint out to where the wire is susceptible to vibration cracking. That said, it's possible to make a more positive connection with solder, but doing it just right requires lots of practice.

Note that heat shrink comes in a marine version with a waterproof and higher temperature adhesive inside so the heat shrink doesn't just melt off when connections overheat; it also has a higher 3 or 4:1 shrink ratio. Marine heat shrink should definitely be used for battery connections to better seal out acid corrosion.

Yes - definitely do this! Battery cable grade is rubber-toughened and amazingly abrasion resistant, regular meltwall is plenty adequate for most joints. If the connector you're thinking of using is available with metwall heat shrink already installed, use that type, as the end seal is more reliable.

Fuse boxes come in various configurations of common bus, and individually-powered fuses. A negative bus fuse box is probably what you need for a trailer DC wiring system.

And I'd definitely go with Blue Sea Systems - I did, actually... Look on their website, get the part number you need, and search for price/shipping you can live with. Also, definitely use ring terminals for all connections, as they're resistant to dropping off if the screw vibrates loose.