Boler Electrical Wiring 101 - Fiberglass RV
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Old 09-12-2021, 02:23 PM   #1
Junior Member
Name: Darcy
Trailer: 1973 Boler
Posts: 6
Boler Electrical Wiring 101

Hey all been a lurker on here for a while and this is my first post. We recently purchased a 13' 1973 Boler and I'm going to have to redo all the interior electrical as it's a mess and likely a safety hazard. I suspect I'm bringing up a topic that's been beat to death but I want to make sure I have it right before I start ordering parts so I apologize in advance.

It's pretty rare that we camp at an unserviced spot these days so my first instinct was just to go all AC Power and simply replace the old Bargman shore power inlet with a new 125v/30Amp RV inlet; maybe install an Inverter so I could use a battery as a back up. However, we are considering a long trip next year so serviced lots are not a guarantee and I've read Inverters suck the battery dry very fast.

Digging through the threads here it sounds like the most common recommendation is doing a dual AC/DC system with the AC going to the plugins and fridge (??) while lights, the water pump, roof vent fan etc. run off a set of DC circuits using a Progressive Dynamics 4000 Series Power Converter. Sounds like this product will also ensure the Batter is kept charged when plugged into Shore Power or Solar (not doing Solar yet but someday maybe). Anyway on to my stupid questions.

1) I'm assuming that the camper outlets are only available when your plugged into a serviced lot with the system? Pretty sure I'm right on this but wanted to double check so I can set family expectations accordingly lol

2) I'm thinking if I buy the following and some type 3, 10 gauged wire I have all I need but wanted to see if I'm missing something.

- 125v, 30A Inlet:

- Progressive Dynamics Converter

- 12v Deep Cell Battery
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Old 09-14-2021, 10:28 AM   #2
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Joe MacDonald's Avatar
Trailer: 1981 Trillium 5500
Posts: 1,158
A PD 4135 will give a 30a dc charge @ 12v, but only requires a 15a inlet, this means you can plug into any regular plug-in, just watch how many things in your trailer are on.
I have a 17 foot trillium, and that is all I have
really, there are 3 electrical systems in a trailer:
1) the 120v power that runs outlets, toaster, microwave, 12v converter etc.
2) the trailer 12v side for interior lights, 12v accessories like water pump, tongue jack, breakaway battery (if equipped), and power for fridge(if needed for controls)
3) the 12v wiring harness for the outside stuff- marker lights, brake lights, brakes.

The first two work together, the third is independent and is what the tow vehicle connects to.
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Old 09-14-2021, 04:28 PM   #3
Junior Member
Name: Darcy
Trailer: 1973 Boler
Posts: 6
Thanks Joe,

The previous owner did all 3rd wiring (vehicle wiring harness) then just stopped and left the rest in a ugly mess. I went ahead and ordered a PD4045 mini and the ShorePower Inlet. Found a really great youtube channel and am a lot more confident now. They focus a lot on Solar but cover the basics also;

Just need to decide on a AMG or Lithium Battery now think I'll go with one 100Ah Lithium for the time being.
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Old 09-14-2021, 10:13 PM   #4
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ststefan's Avatar
Name: Steve
Trailer: 1979 Boler1700
Maple Ridge, B.C.
Posts: 382
I'm assuming you have a 4 pin connector for the trailer. If you change to a 7 pin connector you could be charging the trailer battery while driving.
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Old 09-14-2021, 11:08 PM   #5
Junior Member
Name: Darcy
Trailer: 1973 Boler
Posts: 6
Yeah you would be correct it's just a 4 pin. I will have to look at moving to a 7 pin.

I'm considering a new frame with brakes so may wait until I make up my mind on that investment, which depends on how much I save for my assorted projects this winter.
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