Cadet Complete Rewire Queries - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-16-2017, 02:38 PM   #1
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Name: Larissa
Trailer: Cadet Predom N126 d,e
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Cadet Complete Rewire Queries

Hi All!
I have a Cadet that I believe will need a complete rewire! It came to me without a battery, propane tank or any appliances. I donít want much in it: a fridge, some LED lights, 12V sockets/USB chargers and possibly to mount some computer fans for the fridge/pop-top.
Iíve decided to go to the solar route and I plan on buying the Kirkland Deep Cycle 12V 27DC battery and this 90W Solar kit from Costco. https://www.costco.ca/Coleman-90-W-S...100318951.html
I do not plan on camping with shore power however some might say that I should leave this option available for if I were to ever sell in the future.
Iíve read an absurd amount on this forum and in books on electrical and I have to say Iím still at a bit of a loss. From what I understand with the 4-pole from my car the alternator will not charge my battery while I drive.
I will attach my jumbled workup that I have drawn out as well.
Could someone have a look at my drawing and provide some feedback?
Is anyone able to interpret the mess of electrical in my tiny trailer from the photos attached?
First electrical postÖ. Go easy on me!
Attached Thumbnails
IMG_4402.jpg   IMG_4404.jpg  

IMG_4405.jpg   IMG_4410.jpg  

IMG_4409.jpg   Cadet Electrical Drawing v1.jpg  

IMG_4411.jpg  
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Old 06-01-2017, 06:51 PM   #2
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I'm going to follow this thread, Larissa...I have to figure out the wiring for the Seashell, too. For lights I am going with LED battery lights...one less thing to have to wire in.
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Old 06-02-2017, 01:24 AM   #3
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Hi Larissa, I'm kind of surprised that no ones come back yet with info for you. Electrical issues always seem to draw a lot of input. You are correct, the flat 4 will not get it for charging the battery. You'll need a 7 pin/blade plug to do that.
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Old 06-02-2017, 05:57 AM   #4
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My sense is that the issue of wiring is generally handled by electricians and those entitled to call themselves electricians generally go through apprenticeships before being allowed to work unsupervised. There are, of course, talented amateurs who successfully tackle projects. If you are not comfortable with your electrical knowledge level, hiring someone who is is a viable alternative for such a major undertaking.

From your schematic:

It seems doable and correct as far as it goes.

Running a traditional RV fridge on 12vDC is an amphour hog. My Dometic fridges use 10 amps per hour and I expect that most refrigerators are going to be about that level running on DC. Being able to run the fridge on LP seems almost a necessity if boondocking is in your future. There are other fridges, using Danforth(?) compressors that are more efficient but we're still talking fairly significant amphours.

A 300W inverter is using about 25aDC at it's rated load plus some load while "idling" plus a little extra to efficiency losses. That would get you about 2 hours of battery use (again, at rated load) before you deplete your battery 50% (the usual rule of thumb for long battery life). Being able to reach in and switch off the inverter would be handy way to remove the parasitic load on the battery when the inverter wasn't needed. A 300w inverter should be hardwired but often include an on/off switch.

Other comments:

Some power converters come with a prepackaged 120vAC breakers and 12vDC fuse panel. You can do this with two separate panels but for me there is a perceived efficiency of space usage to the combined unit.

As mentioned, a 4 pin plug doesn't support recharging a battery from the tow vehicle. A 7 pin plug would. Even so, not all tow vehicles put out enough amperage to support recharging. My 2015 Ford Flex w/tow package doesn't. I offer that observation as evidence that having a newer tow vehicle doesn't guarantee anything. First hand knowledge of other tow vehicles would be necessary to know how your tow would do, but take the advice you with a grain of salt because some people mistake the surface charge of the trailer battery with the actual replacement of amphours. Those simple, cheap plug-in volt meters are, for the most part, just reporting the surface charge. Wait 3-4 hours and the surface charge has dissipated and the ubiquitous battery state of charge tables would then apply.
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Old 06-02-2017, 06:09 AM   #5
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OK really stupid question, could you tie off the marker/back up wire to charge the battery slowly? Obviously, you couldn't run an appliance off that wire. Is there a 12V trickle charger out there you could wire to the marker light circuit?

Looking at a four wire trailer project shortly....
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Old 06-02-2017, 08:18 AM   #6
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I suspect you can, but I'm less clear as to why.

None of the 4 wires in a normal flat 4 wire connector are dedicated to back up lights. I suppose I wonder at the thought of only charging your trailer while backing up.

Similarly, wiring to the tail light wire would mean you'd have to run with your lights on. Running lights on might be a good idea to get other driver's attention (if you buy off on the theory of Daytime Running Lights, which I personally I don't). Without the lights on, I believe you'd only be charging the trailer when you were braking.

In a properly wired 7 blade connector the "charge" cable and ground are 10 gauge wire, presumably to mitigate the voltage loss due to long runs of small gauge wire (14 gauge used for tail and signal lights).

I don't see this a worthwhile alternative mostly because of the voltage loss.
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Old 06-02-2017, 07:15 PM   #7
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Meant tail/marker light wire.
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Old 06-02-2017, 09:19 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thrifty bill View Post
OK really stupid question, could you tie off the marker/back up wire to charge the battery slowly? Obviously, you couldn't run an appliance off that wire. Is there a 12V trickle charger out there you could wire to the marker light circuit?

Looking at a four wire trailer project shortly....
Bill,

Its not clear what you are trying to do. Why do you mention a 12v trickle charger? Do you mean a charger that has 12vdc input and 12vdc output? These chargers exist...

-John
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Old 06-02-2017, 09:35 PM   #9
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Larissa, looking at your diagram my comments are:

- Suggest just wiring the 12vdc circuits and omitting shore power connection, shore power converter and inverter initially.
- Agree with other comment that trying to run fridge off battery isn't practical (unless a Danfoss compressor fridge or other low amp fridge is used and matched with sufficient sized solar panel and battery.)
- The positive wires between the solar panel and the solar charger controller, and between the solar charge controller and the battery should be fused.
- On molded FGRVs, the 12vdc negative wires generally aren't fastened to the chassis, i.e., not "grounded". Instead all negative wires are run back to battery, etc.
- Choose appropriate gauge wire and use crimp splices and crimp connectors (although others prefer soldering, etc.).
- Camper positive wire is conventionally black, negative wire is white. Tow vehicle battery positive is red, tow vehicle battery negative is black.

John
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Old 06-03-2017, 07:12 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by John in Michigan View Post
Bill,

Its not clear what you are trying to do. Why do you mention a 12v trickle charger? Do you mean a charger that has 12vdc input and 12vdc output? These chargers exist...

-John
Poorly explained on my part. I want to recharge battery slowly as the marker light Circuit can't handle a serious current draw
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Old 06-12-2017, 03:00 PM   #11
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Name: Larissa
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Thanks John and Dave for your insight. Greatly appreciate it
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