Can Casita 110v outlet power a 120v ceramic heater? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV
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Old 11-16-2015, 09:05 AM   #21
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Wow. I have to say I'm surprised that the testing agencies, especially the ones funded by the insurance companies, allow this. I guess everything has mouse print these days. Raz,
Raz , When I was wiring houses ,we would buy receptacles in quanities of 10,000 at
27 cents each. They work fine in bedrooms and living rooms where the loads were small.
They did not hold up as well in kitchens where high wattage appliances were being used and were repeatedly pluged in and then un plugged. In our area , electric heat is presumed to be a continuous load due to the design temp of -30 deg F. When a cord connected heater runs continuously on high both the cord cap and the receptacle will get warm and over a period of time the receptacle looses its contact tension. For example hospital grade receptacle are tested for contact tension by plugging an 8lb weight into the face of the receptacle , turning the receptacle face down and the weight must stay in place for a stated time period. Hospital grade receptacles cost about $6 to $8 each. The same problem occurs with residential grade switches. If you load the switch above 80% of its rating and the switch is operated frequently ,especially on inductive loads ,the switch will not last very long. The theory that you get what you pay for holds true in electrical devices.
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Old 11-16-2015, 11:24 AM   #22
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Steve
Thanks for this great education on electric stuff. More than I knew for sure and very useful.

Walt
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Old 11-16-2015, 12:45 PM   #23
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Just replace your receptacle with a 20 Amp receptacle. They don't cost that much. Still use the 15 Amp circuit breaker.
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Old 11-16-2015, 01:08 PM   #24
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Exactly.
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Old 11-16-2015, 01:31 PM   #25
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if you dont buy the commercial grade, it still won't last. the t blade designates a 20 amp receptacle , in Ontario, that is what is used for kitchen counters, if close to a sink, then it is also a ground fault receptacle. this replaces the standard 15 amp split plug we used to use. without getting into heavy details, i have used a ceramic heater in my trailer since I got the trailer. my trailer plug only has a 15 amp standard end on it. i do not recall ever tripping a breaker.

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Old 11-17-2015, 06:24 AM   #26
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If anyone cares the commercially supplied AC voltages in the US were originally 110/220 volts and raised in steps to the current 120/240.
(it goes back to Edison and his 100 VDC raised to 110 to make up for transmission loss)

This allows more current, amps, to be delivered over the same transmission lines because when the voltage is raised the amps goes down for the same wattage thus saving lots of $$'s in facilities.
It was done in steps to coincide with lower voltage appliances being replaced with new ones

But old habits are hard to break and many/some still refer to the supplied voltages as "110/220" volts

Joe
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Old 11-18-2015, 10:42 AM   #27
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[QUOTE=Darwin Maring;558846]Just replace your receptacle with a 20 Amp receptacle. They don't cost that much. Still use the 15 Amp circuit breaker.[/)]

Refer to Table 210.21((3 . It is a violation of the NEC to install a 20 amp receptacle on a 15
amp circuit. The code allows both 15 & 20 amp receptacles to be installed on 20 amp branch circuits if the circuit has multiple receptacles. If a 20 amp circuit feeds a single receptacle ,then the receptacle must be rated for 20 amps.
Table 210(((2) states that the maximum load for a cord connected appliance on a 15 amp
receptacle is 12 amps or 1440 watts . A 1500 watt heater exceeds 12 amps
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Old 11-18-2015, 11:23 AM   #28
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Refer to Table 210.21((3 . It is a violation of the NEC to install a 20 amp receptacle on a 15
amp circuit. The code allows both 15 & 20 amp receptacles to be installed on 20 amp branch circuits if the circuit has multiple receptacles. If a 20 amp circuit feeds a single receptacle ,then the receptacle must be rated for 20 amps.
Table 210(((2) states that the maximum load for a cord connected appliance on a 15 amp
receptacle is 12 amps or 1440 watts . A 1500 watt heater exceeds 12 amps
This sounds more like something passed by Congress. Raz
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Old 11-18-2015, 12:43 PM   #29
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This sounds more like something passed by Congress. Raz
The language used in the code is often refered to as "Codeze". The code is used as a legal document and is written as such . The interpretation of the code is under the local authority having legal jurisdiction. This leads to various and stricter interpretations of the code .
Often electrical advice on this forum is contrary to the code and leads to unsafe installations.
Many times electricians will make an installation that exceeds code standards and follow best practice because we know what works . Example: Many shops I worked for did not use the push in terminals on receptacles because it often led to poor connections and call backs.
The code finally recognized the issues with pushin terminations and changed the code and limited their use.
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Old 11-18-2015, 05:30 PM   #30
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Steve, Thanks for the info..
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Old 11-18-2015, 05:33 PM   #31
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All my wiring is 12 Gauge or larger and that is also in the house we built ourselves.
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Old 11-19-2015, 11:10 AM   #32
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Those little cube heaters are absolutely ubiquitous among fiberglass trailers. In fact many eschew the furnace or the heat strip in favor of them. So they have certainly been adequately field tested!
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