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Old 11-11-2018, 04:53 PM   #21
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Name: Sébastien
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Quebec
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Why use 12v if you have 120v?
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Old 11-11-2018, 05:05 PM   #22
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Name: bill
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With a 6amp 12V stock converter on my 77 Trillium, I can only imagine trying to run the refrigerator on 12V. And since the interior lights are all 12 V, there is already a deficit in 12V capacity. And yes, its the original 3 way refrigerator (and did not come with a battery). So I would say 3 way makes zero sense. Maybe they got a deal on the refrigerators?
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Old 11-12-2018, 10:31 PM   #23
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Name: Jann
Trailer: Casita
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Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz View Post
hmm? your Casita power converter should be 35 amps or something, of which about 20 amps is available to charge the battery... that should fully charge a 50% discharged group 27M battery in like 5-6 hours or something.

and that 35A converter should have MORE than enough power to run the fridge on DC.
Like I said I've never tried running the fridge on 12V while plugged into electric since it didn't seem to make sense to do it. If your numbers are correct then a person should be able to run the fridge on 12V while plugged into shore power. But if it take 5-6 hours to charge the battery up or more that is a long time. If there is another 12V draw then it would take longer or possibly not charge fully would it. I don't know much about electric but it just makes sense to me for this to happen.
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Old 11-16-2018, 09:52 AM   #24
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I've only used my fridge on 12v a few times while towing, and though it never ran the battery down, it never really kept the fridge cold either. If I'm driving many hours in hot weather, I'll let it run on propane. Another thing you could do is keep small bottles of water in the freezer compartment, the frozen bottles should keep the fridge cold assuming you don't open it much during your drive. If/when I ever replace the fridge, I'll get a 2-way, there's really no point in the 12v part.
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Old 11-18-2018, 07:49 PM   #25
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Name: Marky
Trailer: Casita
Texas
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Originally Posted by Frank R. View Post
Upstate, we towed our 17' Casita all over the country several times, including Alaska, and I can tell you from experience that you will never get it to charge the battery adequately while towing with the fridge on 12V. I say that after virtually heroic efforts to eliminate as much voltage drop as possible. I paralleled the original wiring with a second #10 wire and that didn't help. Then I paralleled all that with a #8. Still no deal. The only way you can keep the house battery charged is tow on propane. Yeah, I know that blasted thing keeps blowing out. Among all the other drawbacks to the 3-way fridge.



Finally, I yanked the absorbtion fridge out and replaced it with a Nova Kool 5810 12V compressor driven fridge. End of problem, absolutely the best thing I ever did to the trailer. Disclaimer: We don't boondock except an occasional overnite at a Wal Mart or similar. I installed an auxillary battery "just in case", but have not yet used it.


I’m having the same problems too. The absorption fridge won’t run on 12V and blows out on propane. I looked up the Nova Kool fridge and am thinking of taking my absorption fridge out. My question is how did you get it in the Casita, through the door or the window?
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