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Old 11-25-2015, 09:52 AM   #1
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Class B inspection & certification

Can anyone tell me what's involved with obtaining a class B certificate? We purchased our Scamp out of state and when I went to the courthouse to register the sale and transfer the title, I was instructed to call a specific individual that would charge a fee and complete the inspection for issuing a Class B Certificate.

I've looked on the DMV web site and discovered what appears to be a set of inspection points that may be used and it would seem to be a cursory inspection to be certain that we're not towing a moving death trap down the road. I think they want to be certain that the plumbing and electrical are in good condition as well as the secondary point egress.

The previous owners had made some repairs or failed to make some others like the side marker lights that are out. I was wondering if these lights being out will cause us not to obtain the certificate. I know the roof vent, designated as the secondary egress point, being sealed off is probably a significant issue that I'll need to address before the inspection. It appears that most of the interior lighting has already been switched to LED but there is a standard 110v bathroom light fixture over the stove that may be an issue.

Can anyone address this inspection process with specific instructions about how to proceed? I'd hate to pay what has been suggested to be a $50-$60 inspection fee to fail and then have to pay the same fee again following required repairs.
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Old 11-25-2015, 10:04 AM   #2
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WOW..... Kentucky requires a safety inspection before registering an out of state trailer??? That's great, I really wish that all states did, if nothing else it would get a lot of overage/rotten tires off the road.


You might ask at a local RV repair shop/person about a Pre-inspection, but the answer is strictly a KY issue.



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Old 11-25-2015, 10:32 AM   #3
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I think this is a result of the intrastate transfer. The regulations stipulate that dealers are required to provide inspections of all sales but private parties are exempt unless the RV is coming in from out of state. At least, that's how it reads to me. I just wondered if anyone else had any experience with this?
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Old 11-25-2015, 10:41 AM   #4
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Years ago, I brought a trailer into Washington from out of state and the inspection was to check that the VIN matched the title and all the turn signals and stoplights worked. I also had to have a certified weight slip- statement. The trailer did not have brakes. I'm not sure they looked at the tires. I got the impression they were mostly looking for stolen trailers.
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Old 11-25-2015, 11:14 AM   #5
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Quote:
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Years ago, I brought a trailer into Washington from out of state and the inspection was to check that the VIN matched the title and all the turn signals and stoplights worked. I also had to have a certified weight slip- statement. The trailer did not have brakes. I'm not sure they looked at the tires. I got the impression they were mostly looking for stolen trailers.
Jack, thanx for your input. I hope it's this easy. I called to make the appointment with the guy for our area and his answering machine says that he covers 25 counties and that he'll call back within three days to schedule an appointment. I will ask him then what to be prepared for so I can avoid issues.

Seems like this guy might need a little FG camper to travel around an area that big to just to get his job done. If I understand correctly, he is an authorized inspector from a RV dealer that does this on the side so he probably has access to an RV if needed. Interesting job...
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Old 11-25-2015, 11:19 AM   #6
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Wow, Bill... I've never heard of a "Class B" inspection and I've bought and sold a number of trailers over the years in interstate transactions.

Like Bob, I suspect that this a Kentucky thing. In Iowa, they don't even inspect the VIN unless there's some reason that it might be suspect... and that has to be mentioned by the buyer.

ON EDIT... The Great Google (pay no attention to the man behind the curtain) Is Our Friend... here's a link to the statute that they're enforcing... and honestly I've never seen anything quite like it in any other place before...

http://www.lrc.state.ky.us/kar/815/025/020.htm

And here's the applicable part for you:

(6) All new recreational vehicles purchased outside the Commonwealth of Kentucky not bearing a class "A" seal of approval and all used recreational vehicles purchased outside the Commonwealth of Kentucky, not bearing any Kentucky seal of approval, shall be inspected by a certified Kentucky dealer or the office and a class "B" seal of approval issued according to the following criteria:
(a) Inspection of the plumbing and waste systems;
(b) Inspection of the heating unit to determine adequacy of the system;
(c) Inspection of the electrical systems including the main circuit box and all outlets/switches to detect any damaged coverings, lost screws, or improper installations;
(d) Inspection of fire and life safety (fire extinguishers and second means of egress).
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Old 11-25-2015, 11:48 AM   #7
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Another ploy to get money out of your pocket.
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Old 11-25-2015, 12:21 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by TheWanderers View Post
... I understand correctly, he is an authorized inspector from a RV dealer that does this on the side so he probably has access to an RV if needed. Interesting job...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger H View Post
... shall be inspected by a certified Kentucky dealer or the office and a class "B" seal of approval issued according to the following criteria:
(a) Inspection of the plumbing and waste systems;
(b) Inspection of the heating unit to determine adequacy of the system;
(c) Inspection of the electrical systems including the main circuit box and all outlets/switches to detect any damaged coverings, lost screws, or improper installations;
(d) Inspection of fire and life safety (fire extinguishers and second means of egress).
So the same guy who can fail your camper for anyone of a number of reasons also works at an RV dealer where no doubt repairs can be made.. interesting.
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Old 11-25-2015, 12:35 PM   #9
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Yup, these are the guidelines that I found also searching around. It looks pretty simple but item (d) looks pretty specific and that's where we'll have trouble. Thanks y'all.
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Old 11-25-2015, 12:58 PM   #10
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Yup, these are the guidelines that I found also searching around. It looks pretty simple but item (d) looks pretty specific and that's where we'll have trouble. Thanks y'all.
(d) Inspection of fire and life safety (fire extinguishers and second means of egress).

Well, a fire extinguisher is easy so I must assume the "second means of egress" part is giving you pause. Does your Scamp not have the standard roof escape hatch? If not, does the back window and screen open as it does on mine? That's the easier way to get out if the door is blocked.
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Old 11-25-2015, 01:07 PM   #11
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(d) Inspection of fire and life safety (fire extinguishers and second means of egress).

Well, a fire extinguisher is easy so I must assume the "second means of egress" part is giving you pause. Does your Scamp not have the standard roof escape hatch? If not, does the back window and screen open as it does on mine? That's the easier way to get out if the door is blocked.
Gordon, I don't know about the back window but I don't think it opens and the roof vent has been sealed shut. I'll be it's glued down with caulk so I'll need to work on that next, before the inspection.
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Old 11-25-2015, 01:17 PM   #12
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Our 2002 Scamp 13' did not have an alternate exit point. My plan would have been to simply kick out the plastic back window. Tell the inspector that's the alternate escape route. Put a big sticker on it "Kick out to escape"



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Old 11-25-2015, 01:19 PM   #13
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bwaahahaha

Quote:
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Our 2002 Scamp 13' did not have an alternate exit point. My plan would have been to simply kick out the plastic back window. Tell the inspector that's the alternate escape route. Put a big sticker on it "Kick out to escape"
I love this idea! I'm doing it!
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Old 11-25-2015, 01:34 PM   #14
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Our 2002 Scamp 13' did not have an alternate exit point. My plan would have been to simply kick out the plastic back window. Tell the inspector that's the alternate escape route. Put a big sticker on it "Kick out to escape"
Usually, Bob... in a Scamp, the emergency escape is an oversized roof vent just above the dinette. I believe that the RV code requires all RVs to have a second means of egress; especially as late as '02. I know that all four Scamps I've owned from year models 2000 to 2006 13, two 16s and a 19' all had them, and IIRC, they all leaked at the screws around the flange as the silicone deteriorated on them. I don't remember if the '76 Scamp I bought in 1980 had the large roof vent though... that was a long time ago.
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Old 11-25-2015, 01:37 PM   #15
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I love this idea! I'm doing it!
Ok, so maybe not. But it's still funny!
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Old 11-25-2015, 02:25 PM   #16
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Usually, Bob... in a Scamp, the emergency escape is an oversized roof vent just above the dinette. I believe that the RV code requires all RVs to have a second means of egress; especially as late as '02. I know that all four Scamps I've owned from year models 2000 to 2006 13, two 16s and a 19' all had them, and IIRC, they all leaked at the screws around the flange as the silicone deteriorated on them. I don't remember if the '76 Scamp I bought in 1980 had the large roof vent though... that was a long time ago.
That's pretty much an open issue. Our 13' Scamp had a 14" square opening into which I fitted a Fantastic Fan. Same thing on our older 13' Lil Bigfoot.

In current pics, on the Scamp website they only show the 14" square opening over the dinette in both the 13' and the 16'.

In the FG Mini motorhomes I have done a lot of work on, the over-bed escape hatch seemed to have disappeared in the mod to late 80's. My 1989 Sunrader Adventure (a rare pop-up version) had a kick-out back window with bright red latches.

I guess we will have to see what the state of KY wants. But I know it's getting hard to find replacement covers for them in certain sizes.



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Old 11-25-2015, 03:05 PM   #17
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My 1986 Scamp 13 has the factory escape hatch overhead by the dining table. Its like 14" X 22" I doubt I could pull myself up through there. Maybe the roof sags down when you put your weight on it. In an emergency I am going out the rear slider window.
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Old 11-25-2015, 03:10 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Roger H View Post
Usually, Bob... in a Scamp, the emergency escape is an oversized roof vent just above the dinette. I believe that the RV code requires all RVs to have a second means of egress; especially as late as '02. I know that all four Scamps I've owned from year models 2000 to 2006 13, two 16s and a 19' all had them, and IIRC, they all leaked at the screws around the flange as the silicone deteriorated on them. I don't remember if the '76 Scamp I bought in 1980 had the large roof vent though... that was a long time ago.
My Scamp doesn't have a roof escape hatch. It does have a rear window which opens enough to "escape" in case you forget where the door is.
Sarcasm in red...
I'm sure that inspection would save a lot of lives since most people are either malicious or incompetent with a callous disregard for safety, and of course a 13ft fiberglass trailer would be the weapon of choice if you wanted to be a public menace!
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Old 11-25-2015, 03:15 PM   #19
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It doesn't seem to make any sense to put in alternative exit so far up that it can't be used in a matter of seconds by an average person. Besides that, once you get on the roof what are you supposed to do, fall off and break a minor body part, like the neck, skull, back, or just wait for the roof to melt from the fire? Even if I had such a hatch I'd opt for the window.



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Old 11-25-2015, 03:22 PM   #20
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It doesn't seem to make any sense to put in alternative exit so far up that it can't be used in a matter of seconds by an average person. Besides that, once you get on the roof what are you supposed to do, fall off and break a minor body part, like the neck, skull, back, of just wait for the roof to melt from the fire? Even if I had such a hatch I'd opt for the window.
I guess you would need it if the camper fell over on the door!
Don't forget the inspector is always smarter than you and has your best interest at heart.

Of course you would still have the window unless it was blocked by the initial cause!
Hey! How about a fire axe mounted mid ceiling within easy reach! Then there's an exit where ever you want one!
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