Converter vc charger

[Carl V]

I installed a PD4135 in my Trillium 5500 two years ago. The unit proved defective (faulty fan control) when I got it, contacted PD and they sent me a replacement converter unit immediately at no cost, and no arguing (great customer service). Replacing the converter unit is very simple, couple screws, couple wires and I was up and running (flawlessly) in a few minutes.

Instead of the PD I could have went the 'smart charger' way like Francois did, and I did look at his system and the way he's done it.
But considering the price of a smart charger, a separate breaker panel, and a separate fuse panel, I was getting close to the cost of a converter. The PD4135 is one of the smallest (in amp) and cheapest converter PD offers. And it includes a 'smart' multi-stage charge circuit. I was also thinking about resale: may be some next owner will not like some contraption with a charger instead of a regular RV converter. Also, the converter allowed me to easily upgrade the trailer to 30A AC service. I really don't need it for now, but may be one day I'll add AC, and the day my hot water heater craps out I'll probably replace it with a newer unit which will probablyl have AC heater elements. 30A is really the base standard for trailers nowadays.
But I could clearly have done it with a NOCO charger.

This being said, next spring I'm planning to redo the electrical on sis-in-law's T1300, all my schematic is complete and my plan is to use a NOCO 7200, not a converter. I'm planning on keeping the system very simple, I want something she will understand and be able to use and manage easily.

[Sebas]

This morning, I goes in my rig to find why I was unable to charge my battery. After two hours of labor, I note no wire come from the converter to the battery. Only one wire come from the battery to a switch in that converter. This switch is use for selecting source between battery OR converter. I suppose the last owner haved a charger. After connect the battery and put the switch to battery mode, all lights and the fridge work well. It is time for me to buy a smart charger. I find somes fuses in my research, I think it is ok for now. Maybe, in the future, I will upgrate for better. For now,I think all will be OK with a new charger.

Note: when I test the converter, the output was 17.8 VDC. Do you think my converter has a problem? Is it a problem for my lamps or for my propane detector? I think it is the reason why the battery was not wired.

Do you have suggestions for a good charger ? Christmas come soon !

[Franswa]

your post covered everything:


you don't go "no converter" because of cost....the PD powercenter you used cost about the same as a good charger.....if anything you save a bunch of time not having to design/build your own "no converter" system (for me it happened to be an interesting project/hobby that I enjoyed....I got lots of time)


I agree at resale it might turn some people off...so be it! To some people it might also create more interest.



Besides the fact that I am naturally suspicious of anything "automatic" (I can be plugged in and have the charger off)....I wanted to build a solar component to the trailer and figured that would be a lot of trial and error work...I thought that being able to isolate systems was going to help (I have no power coming from the tow vehicle either)


on the water heater issue....when I finished "experimenting" and was ready to do the thing "permanent"....I installed an AC receptacle under the seat, on a separate breaker that the charger plugs into (close to the water heater) sometime in the future I want to get one of those "hot rods" heater elements with thermostat that fits into the drain plug of my heater....it will be plugged into that same receptacle....so when I stop at a place with hook-ups, when I plug in both the charger and water heater will power up at the same time......stored at home I'll have to lift the seat and unplug the heater if I still want charging...lots of different possibilities....


this has been a very interesting thread....and certainly covered "all the bases" I think...Cheers, F

[Carl V]

Originally Posted by Sebas

Note: when I test the converter, the output was 17.8 VDC. Do you think my converter has a problem? Is it a problem for my lamps or for my propane detector? I think it is the reason why the battery was not wired.

Do you have suggestions for a good charger ? Christmas come soon !

I've tested the output of sis-in-law T1300's old converter and it was over 16V. Waaay to much. Since the output of these old converters is constant (no automatic voltage drop to float when the battery is full) they will boil your battery in no time. Also can seriously shorten the life of many LED lights designed to work on 12V or even 14v for that matter. So I wouldn't use it with a battery.

Any modern recent 'smart' automotive charger will be better the old converter (even any old automatic charger also!). If you're looking for something to install permanently, NOCO's chargers are nice as they remember the last setting used and start working as soon as you plug them (with many automotive chargers you have to press buttons and select charge mode before they start charging, that would be annoying in a permanent installation. That's not the case with the NOCOs). I would go with the 7200 (7.2 amp) which is not a lot compared with many converters but probably enough for a small trailer. A smaller NOCO than the 7200 could work but would take a looong time to charge a low battery.

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by Sebas

...
Note: when I test the converter, the output was 17.8 VDC. Do you think my converter has a problem?

Yes

Originally Posted by Sebas

...
Do you have suggestions for a good charger ? Christmas come soon !

https://no.co/products

or

https://www.ctek.com/

I opted for a CTEK because the reviews of the Noco Genius line led to think that the quality of their chargers has declined in the last couple of years, like so many things. Then I got the CTEK and found that it gets very hot, and heat tends to shorten the life of electronics. But both are well regarded and better than many cheaper ones.

[Sebas]

Tanks a lot.
Merci à vous !!
Seb

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by gordon2

It seems to me that if you have an all-in-one unit then when the converter fails or becomes obsolete, you have to replace the entire unit. Whereas if the power panel is separate, you only need to replace or upgrade the converter. I can replace or upgrade my converter by unplugging it from a standard outlet on the panel, and disconnecting and reconnecting two wires. Literally a ten minute job. But what fits for the OP might be more important.

the converter on the Parallax all-in-one that Casita installed on our 2008 is a separately replaceable module, and in fact, a PD4645V fit right in its place, and came with a better fuse board that also fit right in the Parallax power center.

The Parallax was *not* a 3-stage charger, the PD4645 is, so win-win.

[Byron Kinnaman]

Originally Posted by Franswa

your post covered everything:


you don't go "no converter" because of cost....the PD powercenter you used cost about the same as a good charger.....if anything you save a bunch of time not having to design/build your own "no converter" system (for me it happened to be an interesting project/hobby that I enjoyed....I got lots of time)


I agree at resale it might turn some people off...so be it! To some people it might also create more interest.



Besides the fact that I am naturally suspicious of anything "automatic" (I can be plugged in and have the charger off)....I wanted to build a solar component to the trailer and figured that would be a lot of trial and error work...I thought that being able to isolate systems was going to help (I have no power coming from the tow vehicle either)


on the water heater issue....when I finished "experimenting" and was ready to do the thing "permanent"....I installed an AC receptacle under the seat, on a separate breaker that the charger plugs into (close to the water heater) sometime in the future I want to get one of those "hot rods" heater elements with thermostat that fits into the drain plug of my heater....it will be plugged into that same receptacle....so when I stop at a place with hook-ups, when I plug in both the charger and water heater will power up at the same time......stored at home I'll have to lift the seat and unplug the heater if I still want charging...lots of different possibilities....


this has been a very interesting thread....and certainly covered "all the bases" I think...Cheers, F

Cost isn't as issue. A $400+ converter vs a $50 battery minder??

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman

Cost isn't as issue. A $400+ converter vs a $50 battery minder??

how many amps is that $50 battery minder?!? my battery tender is 1.25A, and would take weeks to charge a 50% discharged group 27M...

you need at LEAST a 10-12 amp charger for the typical RV battery, 25 A if you have dual GC batts, and if you want the charger to also run the DC load (fans, heater, etc), then even more... there's a reason these things come with 35-45A converters.

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

how many amps is that $50 battery minder?!? my battery tender is 1.25A, and would take weeks to charge a 50% discharged group 27M...
...

Perhaps it is a BatteryMINDer, a trade name and not a generic description.... see:
RV Battery Maintainer | Motorhome Battery Charger | BatteryMINDers

The one that is close to $50 is 1.5A @ 12VDC.

[John in Santa Cruz]

yeah, that has specs similar to my Deltran Battery Tender. I use the BT to charge a motorcycle sized battery (20AH), but a marine/RV battery (80-100AH) or a dual golf cart setup (200AH+) ? fine to KEEP it charged for long term storage, but not at all adequate to recharge a discharged battery.

[Franswa]

my 230AH battery bank....12.45V "at rest" = 20% discharged.....looking to put back 46AH into the battery....I'm plugged in....I sleep for 7hrs x 7A...I'm topped up again...no???...LOL


it's half science, half art this 12V stuff.... you find something that works for you...and it works...

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by Franswa

my 230AH battery bank....12.45V "at rest" = 20% discharged.....looking to put back 46AH into the battery....I'm plugged in....I sleep for 7hrs x 7A...I'm topped up again...no???...LOL...

Well check the math.

But also try it with 1.5 amps...

And at 1.5 amps, try to sleep as long as Rip Van Winkle..

[Franswa]

we are back to fiddling with the old "storage/power use/production" equation....


if your storage was "low" and your power use "high"....you'd need a high rate of charging while you were sleeping to "fill up your tank" again by morning....


throw in weight(in our small trailers) and cost....and you have a couple more variables to consider.....


"lots of fun this 12V stuff"