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Old 01-30-2024, 05:04 AM   #21
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Name: Carl
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John (Raspy), agree with you wholeheartedly. I have a 12v compressor refrigerator that will run for over 3 days on my lithium batteries, couldn’t do that with lead acid or AGM batteries. Funny thing is, I live in Florida, formerly New Hampshire, and relocated here 29 years ago this coming August. The reason I did is the same reason that my house lithium batteries will never be exposed to temperatures in which they cannot charge. For the most part, if I cannot wear a T-shirt outside, my trailer stays parked in my three sided metal carport. In the last 12 years, I have boondocked for exactly 1 night, so I did not convert to lithium for off grid purposes, although when I tow, my trailer is “off grid.”
At almost 75, I too will probably not own an EV. Above and beyond any problems northerners have charging them in freezing conditions, the U.S. power grid will need to be vastly updated to support large numbers of them given the inability of the grid at times to provide enough power for summer air conditioning needs. And in deference to (Casita) Greg, I’m not willing to invest in a huge bank of solar panels to keep it charged at home. I too do not want to start a range war but I consider reference to pouring money “down a hole inappropriate. We all have activities we enjoy. Some people pour their money “down a hole” taking expensive trips. Others play golf and pay exorbitant greens fees. What is a “hole” to one person is “Nirvana” to another. I’m sure I can find many people that would say they would never pour their money down a hole to purchase an RV, fiberglass or other. All I am saying is that in a world of individuals, even the small world of fiberglass trailer owners, some think alike, but not all. I ride bicycles for exercise almost daily, and sometimes simply for recreation. I currently own three, one of which is very expensive. I’m sure some people would say that more than one is a waste of money or I would never spend that amount on a bicycle. Well, I don’t see it that way and in the end, it is my money to spend as I please.
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Old 01-30-2024, 10:22 AM   #22
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I’d buy from current connected and the recently price dropped SOK. I paid a lot more money for my first 2 206 ah soks . They dropped by 400
Thanks for that advice. SOK looks promising
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Old 01-30-2024, 10:43 AM   #23
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Thanks very much Shelby, Carl, Kip, Dave and everybody. I found out some things about my Scamp that probably are important. (I am not with the Scamp now, but I think these are correct. I called Scamp...)
1. My converter is a progressive dynamics PD9345. (45 amp)
2. However, my wiring from the converter to the battery box is only 12 gauge (20 amp max)
3. Wire gauge in the wiring harness that goes to the tow vehicle is probably 10 gauge!

Regarding charging with the converter (when plugged into shore power) I think there is something I can buy to enable the PD converter to charge an Li battery. But then I need to wonder: will the current stay at 20 amps or less while I am charging? Is it safe to consistently be running 20 amps through 12 gauge wire in a Scamp?
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Old 01-30-2024, 11:30 AM   #24
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We have a local brewery.....they brew a good beer called "Quit Yer Bitchin".....you guys need a pint! Do what works for you....go camping...have fun.....enjoy life.
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Old 01-31-2024, 12:30 AM   #25
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What year is your RV?

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Originally Posted by zack sc View Post
But, in a way, all things aren’t equal. I already have a group 27 box in the front of the Scamp and just swapping out a 12 V seems easier than doing some thing with some kind of lithium-based battery. But maybe there’s an easy way that I don’t know of? Is it possible to put an a lithium battery in a group 27 box in the front?.
Some Scamp converters can charge LiFe with little modification.
Mine is a 2017 and just needs the optional pendant, ( I hope) and I may try these batteries because I can get two in my battery box. https://www.amazon.com/PUPVWMHB-Blue...0C6M32YFR&th=1
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Old 01-31-2024, 12:34 AM   #26
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Have you read this LiFe change story?

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We have a Scamp 13 with a single group 27 lead acid 12 V battery in the front behind the propane tanks. Basically, the battery’s dead and I’m wondering if I should just get a new interstate RV battery, for about $160, or if it might be pretty simple, easy and smart to convert to some sort of a lithium-based battery.
Great information: https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...tml#post863285
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Old 01-31-2024, 12:46 AM   #27
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Yes, by all means have a pint and enjoy life! But also, also let me know what you think about my running 20 amps continuously through 12 gauge wire.

Seems kind of funny that a 2021 Scamp would have a 45 amp converter wired on the output side with 12 awg. You would think they might want to go with 10 or 8 awg? (I wonder what typical current levels are through that wire when you are charging a regular lead acid battery through its various stages?)
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Old 01-31-2024, 12:49 AM   #28
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Some Scamp converters can charge LiFe with little modification.
Mine is a 2017 and just needs the optional pendant, ( I hope) and I may try these batteries because I can get two in my battery box. https://www.amazon.com/PUPVWMHB-Blue...0C6M32YFR&th=1
Thanks. I think that is true for me as well with a PD9345 converter. Is your wiring from converter to battery box also 12 gauge? Do you think that will be big enough?
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Old 01-31-2024, 05:45 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by zack sc View Post
Yes, by all means have a pint and enjoy life! But also, also let me know what you think about my running 20 amps continuously through 12 gauge wire.

Seems kind of funny that a 2021 Scamp would have a 45 amp converter wired on the output side with 12 awg. You would think they might want to go with 10 or 8 awg? (I wonder what typical current levels are through that wire when you are charging a regular lead acid battery through its various stages?)
First, if you want information about charging levels, install a smart shunt. Victron and Renology both have them. I have the Victron and data is accessed through a smart phone app. Very easy to install and cost @ $135 from Amazon.
An electro-chemical engineer (retired) convinced me to install the Victron when I was concerned about battery usage after installing a Norcold 12vdc compressor refrigerator. He guided me through the process and made many recommendations that I followed.

The heaviest wire you can install is not a bad thing. I rewired my charging circuit from 10 AWG to 8 AWG to provide for the huge appetite for lithium batteries when charging. I also disconnected my charging line from the tow vehicle as it really wasn’t effectively charging batteries AND there have been reports I have read of lithium batteries pulling more power than the vehicle’s alternator can put out, frying the alternator and requiring the purchase of a higher capacity alternator. I question if that is possible in some of the computer run vehicles produced today, and before I PERSONALLY would do that myself I would research and ask questions at the Ford dealer (F-150) would recommend. That being said, when I have towed an appreciable distance with the 12 vdc compressor refrigerator running on battery power, upon connecting to shore power the EMS after going through its 2 minute diagnostics before allowing power into the trailer after the diagnostic cycle is complete indicates an immediate spike from 0 amps to 17 amps. However, my Victron smart shunt will display much higher dc amperage going into the batteries. When I first installed the lithium batteries, I grabbed the 10 AWG positive charging line and it was warm. When depleted and charging heavy, it got warmer but not hot. Referring to the U.S. Coast Guard wiring tables, I determined for the distance in question I should use 8 AWG and so I rewired. But it was an easier job for me in an Escape as both the batteries and the converter are internal (under the dinette bench). When I had flooded lead batteries, they were vented to the outside, whereas Scamp batteries are on the trailer’s tongue and heavier wires would have to be “snaked” through whatever route/passageway that the existing wiring uses. In reference to a 45 amp converter, just like an inverter there is an inherent loss in the conversion from ac current to dc current so it’s dc output is somewhat lower than the 45 amp rating. An electrical engineer could probably explain how much is lost and why. However, in answer to your original question, 12 AWG is rated for 20 amp current. At a continuous 20 amp current it will likely get warm but should not get hot enough to cause a fire. Scamp (the company) is not stupid. They understand electrical requirements and would not install inadequate wiring for the type of battery they install. However, if you want to convert to lithium, I would upgrade to 8 AWG because lithium batteries will suck more amperage when charging than a lead acid battery, but in my experience, over a shorter period of time. I hope this helps answer some of your questions.
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Old 01-31-2024, 06:53 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by zack sc View Post
Yes, by all means have a pint and enjoy life! But also, also let me know what you think about my running 20 amps continuously through 12 gauge wire.

Seems kind of funny that a 2021 Scamp would have a 45 amp converter wired on the output side with 12 awg. You would think they might want to go with 10 or 8 awg? (I wonder what typical current levels are through that wire when you are charging a regular lead acid battery through its various stages?)

You'll be fine. That is what it is rated for.
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Old 01-31-2024, 08:08 AM   #31
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The plan so far...

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Yes, by all means have a pint and enjoy life! But also, also let me know what you think about my running 20 amps continuously through 12 gauge wire.
I did run a 10 AWG (2 conductor) down the curb side for ham radio equipment. It is outside under the floor in Non-Metallic Liquid-Tight Conduit, I could do that again for the converter but will first install a 20-amp fuse and do some tests on the factory wire first. My dc to dc charger from the f150 is set to 10 amps max, and the solar is under 6 amps short circuit current so they will not be a problem.
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