Does anyone have a GFCI outlet at the Kitchen Sink? - Fiberglass RV
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Old 03-18-2018, 02:39 PM   #1
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Does anyone have a GFCI outlet at the Kitchen Sink?

We have a 2017 16 Deluxe and I had been outside getting her ready for spring camping. I don't know why I thought about this now but noted that the electrical outlet at the Kitchen sink is NOT a GFCI outlet. Did Scamp goof and we should of had one originally or is that something others have had to add on there own later?

(The one located outside is GFCI so I know that is correct.)

I suspect the microwave and frig also live on that same circuit but can't think of a reason GFCI would be a problem with those two appliances.
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Old 03-18-2018, 03:10 PM   #2
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Find one close and push the test button. I bet it protects both.
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Old 03-18-2018, 03:33 PM   #3
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Find one close and push the test button. I bet it protects both.
Escape does just this, they wire the galley plug through outside GFI plug.
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Old 03-18-2018, 04:08 PM   #4
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Checked That

I appreciate the idea of the outside GFCI protecting the inside outlet by the sink, however the outside circuit is on its own circuit breaker. The sink outlet is on yet a different circuit breaker.
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Old 03-18-2018, 04:25 PM   #5
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Can't imagine Scamp not putting a gfi by the sink. Are you the original owner? If so, call Scamp. If not any hardware store will have one. Actually I'd call Scamp either way. If they don't install one, they should.
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Old 03-18-2018, 04:34 PM   #6
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Yes, we are the original owner and picked it up at the factory in 2017.
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Old 03-18-2018, 04:44 PM   #7
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Jeff, have you tried the test button to see if it does control it too as suggested?
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Old 03-18-2018, 05:28 PM   #8
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By Nat'l Electrical Code, any receptacle mounted within 6 feet of a water source (i.e. sink, shower, etc, or mounted outside, or in a potential wet location or exposed to the weather,) is required to be GFCI protected. As was mentioned earlier, it may possibly be protected "upstream" by a different GFCI outlet. But, if it isn't, it should definitely be replaced with one for safety.
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Old 03-18-2018, 05:29 PM   #9
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They are on two separate circuits so the two never have a chance to be controlled by one GFI. (The test is quite valid but can't happen in my scenario.)
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Old 03-18-2018, 05:32 PM   #10
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I agree with the tech specs..........just wondering if Scamp is doing it this way for some reason I don't understand. (Do other Scamp owners have this same situation?)
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Old 03-18-2018, 06:11 PM   #11
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Same here. I don't have the outside outlet on my '08, and the sink outlet is not GFCI protected (unless it's protected at the breaker, which I doubt but haven't checked). Since we don't use the sink or plug into 110V power, I honestly hadn't given it much thought.

Mine didn't come with smoke or CO detectors either. I added them myself, since we do use the LP and 12V systems for the furnace and lights.

I'd be curious to hear what Scamp says, but I suspect your best bet is to swap it yourself and be done.
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Old 03-18-2018, 07:13 PM   #12
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Jeff, we have a 2017 Scamp, 16 Standard layout 4, and I have done a number of changes to the electrical system. I can tell you that on ours, the outside GFCI, the receptacle on the end of the sink cabinet, the refrigerator, and the microwave were all on the same circuit. Only because it's what I do, I ran additional separate circuits for both the refrigerator and the microwave, but the outside and inside receptacles are still on one circuit. I haven't tried to test the GFCI to see if it also protects the inside one, but the outside is wired in before the inside one. Since you brought it up, I'll try it this week to make certain.
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Old 03-18-2018, 07:15 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Casita Greg View Post
By Nat'l Electrical Code, any receptacle mounted within 6 feet of a water source (i.e. sink, shower, etc, or mounted outside, or in a potential wet location or exposed to the weather,) is required to be GFCI protected. As was mentioned earlier, it may possibly be protected "upstream" by a different GFCI outlet. But, if it isn't, it should definitely be replaced with one for safety.
The electrical code is mostly for buildings and might not apply to trailers??
I'm at the end of rebuilding our '79 Boler and replaced every 110v plug with GFCI.
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Old 03-18-2018, 07:41 PM   #14
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The electrical code is mostly for buildings and might not apply to trailers??
I'm at the end of rebuilding our '79 Boler and replaced every 110v plug with GFCI.
Greg is 100 % correct --- See NEC Art #551
Art #551 also refers you to other code sections that also apply such as Sec 300 wiring methods , Art 250 Grounding , Art 240 Overcurrent protection etc , etc , etc
Why would you replace every receptacle in your trailer with GFCI'S
From a wiring and safety perspective it adds nothing except cost unless every receptacle in your trailer is on a separate circuit.
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Old 03-18-2018, 07:46 PM   #15
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Greg is correct --- See NEC Art #551
Art #551 also refers you to other code sections that also apply such as Sec 300 wiring methods
Why would you replace every receptacle in your trailer with GFCI'S
From a wiring and safety perspective it adds nothing unless every receptacle in your trailer is on a separate circuit.
Every receptacle in my trailer is on a separate breaker. 3 receptacles and 4 breakers, one being the master.
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Old 03-19-2018, 08:52 AM   #16
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Not that what you're doing wouldn't work, but I just gotta ask, why do you have each outlet on a separate circuit? Just seems like way overkill to me, but it's your rig. I can't imagine what you would possibly be plugging in that would require separately wired receptacles in the first place.
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Old 03-19-2018, 08:58 AM   #17
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It's the way the trailer came wired. If it ain't broke don't fix it. lol
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Old 03-19-2018, 08:58 AM   #18
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Not that what you're doing wouldn't work, but I just gotta ask, why do you have each outlet on a separate circuit? Just seems like way overkill to me, but it's your rig. I can't imagine what you would possibly be plugging in that would require separately wired receptacles in the first place.
An electric heater and a toaster on the same 15 amp breaker might pop. ??
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Old 03-19-2018, 09:00 AM   #19
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An electric heater and a toaster on the same 15 amp breaker might pop. ??
My electric heater and 12 volt fridge plugged in using the AC adapter will trip the 15 amp main breaker on my 1979 boler (one AC circuit on original wiring).
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Old 03-19-2018, 09:35 AM   #20
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There you go. Mystery solved.
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