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03-11-2013, 09:55 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Name: Sharon
Trailer: Chez Nous - a 2011 Scamp 16'
Texas
Posts: 277
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Does anyone have these LED bulbs?
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03-11-2013, 10:56 PM
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#2
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Moderator
Trailer: Fiber Stream 1978 / Honda Odyssey LX 2003
Posts: 8,222
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If you are replacing incandescent 1156 bulbs in standard 12 volt RV lighting fixtures then yes, those should fit. My replacement bulbs are larger than that and mine fit into standard fixtures. The important thing is the "Bayonet" base. I think Scamp uses those; Casita uses a different type...
__________________
Frederick - The Scaleman
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03-11-2013, 11:18 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Name: Sharon
Trailer: Chez Nous - a 2011 Scamp 16'
Texas
Posts: 277
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Actually I'm replacing interior 1141 bulbs to start with. Will hit the exteriors later.
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03-12-2013, 01:14 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
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Sharon, as Frederick mentioned the base on the one in the photo will work on your Scamps fixtures but I am not sure you want to get the round one. The Lumens rating is pretty low on many of that style. I number of us have gone to the ones that have a flat square surface for inside lighting as they give a bit more light. Look for as high a Lumens as you can find they are all different. Another square flat style looks like this but look for one with more lights and higher lumens rating than the one in the photo. You use a double sided tape to secure the light portion to the inside of the light fixture:
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03-12-2013, 12:59 PM
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#5
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Member
Name: Lonny
Trailer: Bigfoot 25B21FB
British Columbia
Posts: 38
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I have used the same type as Sharon mentioned in my past two trailers and really liked how well they performed. I could notice the difference in battery life when boondocking as well and could use more lights than would normally use without affecting battery life.
I also used the same LEDs in my 3 outside lights and although not great at really lighting up an area, did give enough light to be able to see in the pitch blackness of some campsites.
Some folks have mentioned they did not get good life out of their LEDs but I have yet to have one burn out myself, so really happy there. I also noticed that the LEDs are a lot cooler running, so no more browning of fixtures or melting of lens covers.
Hope this helps!
Lonny
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03-12-2013, 01:23 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 5,112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lonnyda
.......... Some folks have mentioned they did not get good life out of their LEDs .........Lonny
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One possibility is that they are running the LEDs on the converter at too high a voltage (14 vs 12 volts). We've discussed here that an inexpensive voltage regulator can be inserted upstream of the LED light to hold the maximum voltage to 12 volts.
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03-12-2013, 01:50 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Name: Jack
Trailer: '98 BURRO 17WB
Delaware
Posts: 2,548
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Amico Warm White 48 LED 3528 SMD BA15S Car Dome Bulb Ceiling Light : Amazon.com : Automotive
This type with 48smd count is usually not available with the BA15s base adaptor. I buy this type from another distributor at about 3.50<4.00$ apiece with BA9s adaptor and then make my own BA15s adaptor by soldering an adaptor harness to the base of a burnt out 1141 or 1156 incandescent bulb. I know you do not want to do this.
These are 1-1/2 by 2" and have self-adhesive backing. Before you buy, you need to determine if you have room in your fixture for the flat panel. If they do not light initially, the 2-pin connector to the harness should be reversed to achieve correct polarity. For half the price of the "stalk" type bulb you are looking at, you have very little to lose by giving them a try. The 9smd "stalk" will seem very dim compared to this flat panel printed circuit board type. Amazon has 10 in stock. Maybe there will other offerings but I don't see them often. Your choice.
jack
I looked again at this listing. Seller is in China. This in itself wouldn't be so bad but this seller has an awful 85% customer rating and averasge shipping time to CONUS is also worse than average. Neewer and BestDeals are both better seller choices but not offering the bayonet base you need. If you want to throw down 5 bucks and wait two or three weeks, you can try this LED panel as an intro but I can't recommend the seller.
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03-12-2013, 02:16 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Name: Jack
Trailer: '98 BURRO 17WB
Delaware
Posts: 2,548
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Tom, I'm still waiting on shipment of heat sinks from Thailand. Should be here 19 March. Then I can solder my voltage regulators. In the meantime I haven't lost any diodes on the nine 36 and 48smd flat panels I have in service. On shore power from house circuit all the time. Every 21 hrs. the PD9245 goes to desulfation for 15 minutes so they appear to be surviving the overvoltage so far. I should leave one fixture on all the time to test further.
I also have several stalk type LEDs and not a single one has retained all its diodes. The solder bond doesn't hold up and some of the elements simply fall off. I continue to use these in the outdoor light and in the shower fixture. I love the light output of the flat panels.
Pardon the diversion, Sharon. Back to your immediate problem.
jack
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03-12-2013, 02:20 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Name: Jack
Trailer: '98 BURRO 17WB
Delaware
Posts: 2,548
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That's what I've paid on average buying 4 or 5 count, Tom. Unfortunately, the BA15s bayonet base is the itty bit without which Sharon cannot do. At least that seems to be a good bet as Carol advises that base and she has a Scamp.
jack
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03-12-2013, 04:18 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Name: Sharon
Trailer: Chez Nous - a 2011 Scamp 16'
Texas
Posts: 277
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Thanks one and all. Well, last night in a rush I went ahead and ordered the ones I originally mentioned. So maybe I blew it. Anyway, I only got 4 interior ones, and will likely need more (2 more or so), plus I need to get the exterior changed over as well. I'll slow down and make better choices ASAP. I'm sort of being rushed on this whole trailer thing at the moment for several reasons. Real life is like that, always pushing in its own direction on its own clock.
Anyway, I just washed my trailer (new to me 2011 Scamp 16' as of March 10), and today while washing knocked a flippin' rivet cap off. GRRRR. Here I tow it 400 miles without incident, then smack off a little cover (which I couldn't find afterwards) by being careless with a sponge thing. Time to order caps (and rivets and silicone) I guess for "rapid deployment."
Sharon
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03-12-2013, 04:25 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 5,112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SharonM
.......... silicone.....
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The S word!
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03-12-2013, 04:35 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978, 1979, 1300 - 1977, and a 1973
Alberta
Posts: 6,926
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Fibreglass and sillycone are not compatible.
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03-12-2013, 04:54 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Name: Sharon
Trailer: Chez Nous - a 2011 Scamp 16'
Texas
Posts: 277
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Ugh - ok, what is it I use to hold the new cap on? Just snap it on? I thought they had to be reinforced with some kind of glue? No?
S.
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03-12-2013, 04:57 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Name: Fred
Trailer: 1978 Trillium 4500
Washington
Posts: 232
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I've got about 10 of the bulbs at the very top of this thread.
I'm looking to sell them below cost.
I've purchased some new light fixtures that have integrated LEDs in them. I used these bulbs in the old trill interior light fixture (also for sale), and the exterior fixture. The bulbs are brighter than the original incandescents, and have much lower current draw.
Color "quality" is very white -- but not blue.
__________________
Cheers
--Fred and Natalie
1978 Trillium 4500 "Bernerwagon"
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03-12-2013, 05:13 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Name: Jack
Trailer: '98 BURRO 17WB
Delaware
Posts: 2,548
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You're doing fine, Sharon. Glad to hear you got your trailer home. I doubt you've made a mistake on the bulbs so long as they provide illumination and cut down battery drain.
I myself have not made many mistakes . . . while sleeping. Very few of us can claim to have made all the right choices about things of which we have no experience. If you don't get exactly what you want first time, don't regret the couple dollars thrown to get in the game.
jack
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03-12-2013, 05:47 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SharonM
Ugh - ok, what is it I use to hold the new cap on? Just snap it on? I thought they had to be reinforced with some kind of glue? No?
S.
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LOL dont let Donna catch you using the "S" word!
New words to replace the "s" word that you will need to learn are "Butyl tape".
Nothing needed to put a new cap on but the cap itself, assuming you didnt snap the plastic holder it goes onto. If that happened they you will be getting your first lesson in rivet replacement The cap just snaps on. If you have a Home Depot or other home improvement store near you they will probable have a cap that fits. But ordering a set of caps, holders & rivets to keep on hand is not a bad idea as they will give you all the right sizes.
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03-12-2013, 05:48 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978, 1979, 1300 - 1977, and a 1973
Alberta
Posts: 6,926
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Sharon, I have no experience with rivet caps, but I do know this. Silicone will fail, three years seems to be the best you can expect out of it in an RV application. The problem is that when it does fail, then it is very difficult to remove the residue, and nothing else will stick to where the silicone was applied.
Others will chime in with what they have used in your application.
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03-12-2013, 06:06 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SharonM
Anyway, I only got 4 interior ones, and will likely need more (2 more or so), plus I need to get the exterior changed over as well.
Sharon
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Well you could always do what I did and put the ones you purchased in areas where you dont need as high a light level as you will want in areas that you read . I put the first set I purchased which didnt have a high enough of a luminus rating (look for 300 or up) for reading in the bathroom and up near the front bunk area where I dont normally read.
What are you planning to replace on the outside? The only LED's I have outside is the small Side Porch light and I replaced the full tail light fixture to fully enclosed LED types. Tried using LED taillight replacement bulbs in them but was disappointed with them as they were no where near as bright as I had hoped. But I had the old wedding cake style lights that didn't give off much light at the best of times and no one could even see the brake lights or turn signal on if the sun was shining on them. Your trailer is pretty new so I would think what is on there now is probable good/safe enough for the time being.
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03-12-2013, 06:09 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Name: Sharon
Trailer: Chez Nous - a 2011 Scamp 16'
Texas
Posts: 277
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Thanks all. Well, I went to Scamp store and did by some caps, rivets, washers -- not a ton of each, but some. Also I did a Google search and 3M is the preferred glue for fiberglass/marine stuff. So I got a little tube for any future stuff since I won't need it (ala Carol) for popping a cap back on.
Onward and upward, or whatever!
Sharon
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