Electrical Problem

[Birmingham1]

I have my Parkliner plugged into 110 power at the house and the last trip I took, I had no issues.

I am getting ready to leave on a trip and now the 110 is not delivering ANY power to the trailer. I validated I do have power at the end of my power cord running from the house. I triple-checked that it is plugged in to the trailer. However, the Progressive Dynamics converter light doesn't even come on. None of the electrical outlets work, the microwave light does not come on, etc.

Is this likely a bad converter?

And oh, there are two 30 AMP fuses for the converter and I replaced both...no change at all. I also flipped all the breaker switches several times.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

[Byron Kinnaman]

Originally Posted by Birmingham1

I have my Parkliner plugged into 110 power at the house and the last trip I took, I had no issues.

I am getting ready to leave on a trip and now the 110 is not delivering ANY power to the trailer. I validated I do have power at the end of my power cord running from the house. I triple-checked that it is plugged in to the trailer. However, the Progressive Dynamics converter light doesn't even come on. None of the electrical outlets work, the microwave light does not come on, etc.

Is this likely a bad converter?

And oh, there are two 30 AMP fuses for the converter and I replaced both...no change at all. I also flipped all the breaker switches several times.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Most likely there's tripped circuit breaker someplace. I can tell with some certainty that it's not the converter. The converter takes the 120VAC (house current) and puts out 12 VDC (Battery voltages). What you've described is the 120 Volt stuff not working, apparently all of it. Recheck the power cord coming from the house. (sounds like an extension cord). Then start looking for a fuse or circuit breaker close to where the power cord comes into the trailer.

[Birmingham1]

Thanks for the feedback!

I am 100% sure I have power at the end of the extension cord. I plugged in a phone and it began charging.

I do have an adapter to get me from the 30 amp to the 110, but it is less than 6 months old. It has no fuse.

From the end of the 30 amp I traced it all the way back until it ends at the converter. No fuses or circuit breakers along the way.

You are correct in your assessment in that none of the 110 side of things is working. I do have lights, fan, etc so the DC side is working. The converter is also warm to the touch.

I will continue to stare at it a bit more and see if I am just missing something.

[mszabo]

Morning Mark, until someone with a Parkliner chimes in.
What model convertor?
If is a metal style box, follow the power feed wires back to a breaker panel.
If it's a panel style with the plastic door panel? They have the breakers installed in it.

[Raz]

In my Trillium they used a GFI receptacle in one location and power the second 110 receptacle from it. If it trips there is no AC in the trailer. Raz

[Bob Miller]

Hmmmm....

The converter getting warm is good, that tells you that the 120 is getting to at least the breaker for the converters power supply. You didn't mention if there was any 12VDC from the converter, (you will have to disconnect one of the battery leads to conform) but I suspect there is.

Depending on how Parkliner wired the box, you should have at least three breakers, 1. A main breaker
2. A breaker for the converter itself
3. At least one or more breakers for 120VAC loads.

But yours may be entirely different from this scheme.

If you have DC you can usually eliminate the first 2 and it's time to get either a 120 VAC test light or a meter out and find out where the 120 VAC stops.

Some possibilities:
1. A bad breaker. Are you switching them OFF then ON?
2. A wire to the AC outlets has come loose from the breaker or a down steam wire nut has come loose
3. A tripped Ground Fault detector

If you don't feel comfortable troubleshooting 120VAC you can unplug the power cable and remove the front cover of the power chassis and at least inspect for loose wires etc.

BTW: Those 30 amp fuses are usually the in the reverse current protection circuit between the battery and the converter.

And again, as a mentioned, he AC is separate from the DC and all the power chassis really does for the AC power is provide a mounting place for the breakers. If someone tells you that the converter is bad, be sure to get a second opinion.

[Birmingham1]

With everyone's feedback...FIXED!

I love these forums.

It turned out to be a tripped GFCI...I only have one, near the sink. I reset and I am now back in business!! I had no idea that would trip the power to the entire trailer.

Thank you to everyone who provided advice and feedback!
VERY much appreciated.

[Bob Miller]

It might be a good idea to include an outlet polarity checker in your hook-up stuff. They are less than $10 at almost any hardware store and will conform that the outlet you are connecting to is correct as well as the wiring in any extension cords and adaptors you have, not to mention the trailer itself.

As incorrect wiring will trip your GF detector. I always verify this before plugging in.

[Steve Outlaw]

[QUOTE=Birmingham1;424281]

And oh, there are two 30 AMP fuses for the converter and I replaced both...no change at all. I also flipped all the breaker switches several times.

QUOTE]

Those two green fuses will never blow unless you reverse the polarity to the converter while installing it. When ALL 110VAC is gone and you've ascertained that power is getting to the trailer, then it is almost always your GFI outlet and, as you found out, it cuts power to everything else when tripped.

[deryk]

Mark, dont feel bad, I did the same thing...I mist have bumped the gfi and i was wondering why the microwave wasnt working... took me a little while till I figured it out... lol

[honda03842]

The tripped GFI is one of the most common electrical problems in small new trailers with GFI. Somehome the GFI outlet trips and places that don't have GFI no longer work making it vey confusing for the new owner.

[Birmingham1]

Yep, that was me!

I was pretty sure folks on this site could set me in the right direction.

I will keep learning and hopefully someday I will be able to pass on knowledge too.

Thanks everyone!

[jwcolby54]

Modern GFI outlets can managed downstream outlets, IOW the GFI outlet will trip if an outlet further down from that outlet has an issue. So it may be the GFI outlet causing the GFI to trip, or it may be something downstream as well.

It may be just bumping the little button.

Glad you figured it out.