Electrical Reccomendations - Fiberglass RV


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 09-17-2013, 05:46 AM   #1
Member
 
Name: Mary
Trailer: Scamp 13'
Maine
Posts: 41
Registry
Electrical Reccomendations

I know this is a tall order here, but I find myself in the unfortunate situation of a time and budget crunch, and I need help...

In a nutshell, my Scamp 13' needs to be completely rewired. The PO did a very shaky job of re-wiring the little guy to run off of AC only. I will be full-timing soon, very soon, and believe it is sensible (to say the least) to revert to AC/DC capabilities. Where I live there are few options for service on RVs, and I would like to go into the shop armed with the clearest possible outline of what I need. Ideally, I'd like to incorporate a modest solar set-up, such as Norm's group 24 battery, 80 watt solar panel, and 1200 watt inverter that he described back in the day.

My budget is just shy of a thousand dollars. The PO replaced all of the light fixtures with LEDs, which is great, but as I said everything (including the fridge) runs off of AC. (There is an air conditioner and I have no illusions about being able to run it off of a battery.)

There is no converter, charge controller or anything else left from the original wiring set-up. I confess I feel like a complete helpless idiot right now - because I am - and I need to be talked through this as if I were a slow five-year-old.

So, Brain Trust: What would you do? Should I ditch the solar fantasy? But, since everything is wired for AC, it's pretty much a given I need an inverter, no? I don't need a lot in terms of refrigerated food, so I'm considering switching to a smaller AC/DC fridge.

As I indicated at the beginning of this post - this is a tall order. Is anyone out there willing to hold my virtual hand and give me some ideas as to the best place/way to spend my money? This is the only chunk of change I'm going to have to sink into this, so my decisions need to be wise.

As always, thanks for sharing your valuable knowledge, and I look forward to the day I can repay in kind.
__________________

__________________
Mary & The RG
1981 Scamp 13'
2001 Subaru Outback
Brandegor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2013, 05:56 AM   #2
Senior Member
 
Thomas G.'s Avatar
 
Name: Kinga DeRode
Trailer: For Sale Or Rent
Rooms to Let 50 Cents
Posts: 5,110
Mary, repairing the wiring and installing a battery and converter is not a huge task, though it may be somewhat labor intensive. If you want a refrigerator that operates when not plugged into to AC power, you will need to buy a gas refrigerator or a DC powered compressor type. Either one will eat a large hole in your $1000 budget.

Are you handy enough to learn some basic wiring skills? If not maybe you can hire someone locally to do the work for you - maybe a retiree or someone working off the clock for extra cash. I find these types on Craigslist.

It can definitely be done, and solar is not a big obstacle. And yes, we can talk you through it. Also, there is lots of help on YouTube how to videos, websites and DIY books.
__________________

__________________
UHaul and Burro owners, join the UHaul Campers on Facebook. https://www.facebook.com/groups/529276933859491/
Thomas G. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2013, 06:16 AM   #3
Member
 
Name: Mary
Trailer: Scamp 13'
Maine
Posts: 41
Registry
Hi Tom - thanks for your fast response! I actually have the fridge part sorted out (Coleman 40-Quart PowerChill Thermoelectric Cooler, less than $100 from good ol' Wal Mart) It will more than meet my needs. Once upon a time I was handy and more than capable of a task such as this, but a brain injury has left me unable to complete that kind of work on my own. Essentially I need to walk into a shop with a list and say "Do this, buy this." I've tried finding someone off the grid, so to speak, to do the work, without success thus far, but am still looking. Oh so frustrating, knowing I could have done this once upon a time, but hey ... I can walk, talk and most importantly, drive!! Many thanks for your response.
__________________
Mary & The RG
1981 Scamp 13'
2001 Subaru Outback
Brandegor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2013, 06:30 AM   #4
Senior Member
 
Roy in TO's Avatar
 
Name: Roy
Trailer: 1972 boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Ontario
Posts: 5,025
I suggest the first thing you buy is this:
Google Books
Roy in TO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2013, 07:27 AM   #5
Senior Member
 
Steve L.'s Avatar
 
Name: Steve
Trailer: 2003 Casita 16' SD
Michigan
Posts: 1,899
Registry
You situation and common sense approach to solving it urges(?) me to make an observation that's occurred to me often reading other posts.

It is my sense that electricians go through a fair amount of training in their apprenticeship and subsequent supervision by a journeyman electrician before they are let out on their own. Some technically inclined amateurs can do a narrow part of what electricians do if we read up or are guided closely by knowledgeable supervision. It would probably take ten times as long for us to do it as a pro and longer still since we’re working in a built-up trailer making wiring runs more time consuming (taking “rewiring” at face value). Simple tasks such as swapping out a receptacle or switch are within most amateurs’ ability but even that needs a little research to be done properly. A complete rewiring of a trailer to include converter/charger and perhaps a solar option would give me pause. It’s not rocket science but it is potentially dangerous if not treated respectfully. Electricity follows well understood rules but if one isn’t prepared to do and understand the research I’d stay away. I observe business managers all the time pooh-poohing engineers about some process they don’t understand because we can’t reduce 4 years of engineering schooling down to a 5 minute presentation for them. So, too, with electricians.

In this case time and resources both are tight. I think you’re wise to know your limitations and I like the suggestion to find someone off the grid to do it. There are no building permits for this sort of thing. I wish you success.
Steve L. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2013, 07:30 AM   #6
Senior Member
 
Thomas G.'s Avatar
 
Name: Kinga DeRode
Trailer: For Sale Or Rent
Rooms to Let 50 Cents
Posts: 5,110
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandegor View Post
Hi Tom - thanks for your fast response! I actually have the fridge part sorted out (Coleman 40-Quart PowerChill Thermoelectric Cooler, less than $100 from good ol' Wal Mart) It will more than meet my needs. Once upon a time I was handy and more than capable of a task such as this, but a brain injury has left me unable to complete that kind of work on my own. Essentially I need to walk into a shop with a list and say "Do this, buy this." I've tried finding someone off the grid, so to speak, to do the work, without success thus far, but am still looking. Oh so frustrating, knowing I could have done this once upon a time, but hey ... I can walk, talk and most importantly, drive!! Many thanks for your response.
The thermoelectric coolers are very energy inefficient - meaning that they take a lot of power for a little cooling. But if you plan to plug into 110 volts, it doesn't much matter. You might be able to plug this into your cigarette lighter as you drive, but not when parked.

You have a number of further options.

A very low cost plan is to just add a battery, an inverter and a battery charger. Since you are all wired for 110 volts, just plug into the inverter to power your lights, etc when you don't have shore power electricity. You will not be able to run a refrigerator or a large power consumer off the battery. Recharge the battery from the battery charger when you have shore power.

An upgrade would be add to a solar panel and a charge controller.

A further upgrade would be to add a converter with fuse panel and add 12 volt fixtures in place of all the 110 volts fixtures like lights, fan, etc. You wouldn't really need an inverter if you did this initially.
__________________
UHaul and Burro owners, join the UHaul Campers on Facebook. https://www.facebook.com/groups/529276933859491/
Thomas G. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2013, 08:00 AM   #7
Member
 
Name: Mary
Trailer: Scamp 13'
Maine
Posts: 41
Registry
Thanks, Steve. As I work things out on this ethereal paper, it occurs to me that what I am after is systems design. I have no intention of doing this work myself, but what I need is to have a very concrete plan when I hit the shop for the $45/hour labor. In fact, if I could even shop around for the components myself, I could construct my budget accordingly. Thus far, I know I need/want:

1. A battery (size?) and battery box
2. A charge controller
3. Solar panel (85 - 100 watt)
4. Inverter (capacity?)
5. 12v DC outlet(s)
6. 12v DC lighting

Do you (anyone reading) think that it is unwise to invest my limited resources in solar at this point? A brief browsing session on the internet turned up several kits like this:

Amazon.com : Windy Nation 100 Watt Solar Panel Complete Off-Grid Kit : Patio, Lawn & Garden

However, they do not include the all-important inverter.

Before I confuse myself any further, I think I'll wait for more input. Thanks, all.
__________________
Mary & The RG
1981 Scamp 13'
2001 Subaru Outback
Brandegor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2013, 08:06 AM   #8
Senior Member
 
tartosuc's Avatar
 
Name: Bernard
Trailer: 2007 uhaul ct13
Quebec
Posts: 222
i would do a 12 setup with 100w or less solar panel, a good battery , a cheap smart battery charger to charge your battery when needed...

converters are very expensive, if you want to go on the cheap side, you can use a computer power supply when connected to AC power..., most of them can supply over 15 amps in 12v and cost less than 25$.
computer psu also supply 5v so they can help you setup usb connections for charging.
thats what i'm doing in my uhaul.
tartosuc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2013, 08:11 AM   #9
Member
 
Name: Mary
Trailer: Scamp 13'
Maine
Posts: 41
Registry
Hi Tom -

Good thoughts - I do realize that the refrigerator is, shall we say, less than ideal - but I also know my eating habits, and I'm more the icebox kind of gal - half and half for the coffee, some yogurt and Vitamin Water is about all that lives in my 'fridge. I like the idea of leaving the wiring as is - i.e., not rewiring the whole shebang but adding an inverter. So let me ask you this - what do you think of a kit like this:

Amazon.com : Windy Nation 100 Watt Solar Panel Complete Off-Grid Kit : Patio, Lawn & Garden

And, what size battery and inverter would be appropriate for such an array? Thanks.
__________________
Mary & The RG
1981 Scamp 13'
2001 Subaru Outback
Brandegor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2013, 08:11 AM   #10
Senior Member
 
Steve L.'s Avatar
 
Name: Steve
Trailer: 2003 Casita 16' SD
Michigan
Posts: 1,899
Registry
Item 4: are you looking for an inverter (12v to 120v) or a converter (120v to 12v with battery charging capability? Remember, inverters suck battery juice like it was free. It goes out much faster than it comes back. A non-solar charger (as is usually found in a converter) is nice to have when you have hookups.

Item 5: Where do you want them located. Sometimes when recharging you want the outlet out of the way. When you're using it then you want it handy. You probably want to tell them where.

Also, do you want some 120v outlets? How many? Where?
Steve L. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2013, 08:14 AM   #11
Member
 
Name: Mary
Trailer: Scamp 13'
Maine
Posts: 41
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by tartosuc View Post
i would do a 12 setup with 100w or less solar panel, a good battery , a cheap smart battery charger to charge your battery when needed...

converters are very expensive, if you want to go on the cheap side, you can use a computer power supply when connected to AC power..., most of them can supply over 15 amps in 12v and cost less than 25$.
computer psu also supply 5v so they can help you setup usb connections for charging.
thats what i'm doing in my uhaul.
Can you elaborate a little on the computer power supply use? Interesting.
__________________
Mary & The RG
1981 Scamp 13'
2001 Subaru Outback
Brandegor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2013, 08:21 AM   #12
Member
 
Name: Mary
Trailer: Scamp 13'
Maine
Posts: 41
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve L. View Post
Item 4: are you looking for an inverter (12v to 120v) or a converter (120v to 12v with battery charging capability? Remember, inverters suck battery juice like it was free. It goes out much faster than it comes back. A non-solar charger (as is usually found in a converter) is nice to have when you have hookups.

Item 5: Where do you want them located. Sometimes when recharging you want the outlet out of the way. When you're using it then you want it handy. You probably want to tell them where.

Also, do you want some 120v outlets? How many? Where?
Since it's wired for AC only, I'm looking for an inverter, battery and charger (charge controller?) so I can have lights, at least, when off shore power. There are a couple of 120v outlets - I thought having a 12v outlet might be handy but not strictly necessary.
__________________
Mary & The RG
1981 Scamp 13'
2001 Subaru Outback
Brandegor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2013, 08:34 AM   #13
Senior Member
 
tartosuc's Avatar
 
Name: Bernard
Trailer: 2007 uhaul ct13
Quebec
Posts: 222
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandegor View Post
Can you elaborate a little on the computer power supply use? Interesting.
what do want to know exactly?

basicaly a computer PSU has 3 voltages, 12v, 5v and 3,3v

the wires colors are.:
black negative
yellow 12v
red 5v.
there are other wires that need to be connected to power up the psu but i dont have my plan with me..ill find out and let you know...
all 3 volatges are regualted, safe for a computer so it's very good PSU to use in a small RV to power LEDS, recharge ipods etc.
ther are like 25 wires coming out of the psu, but inside of it all black, all yellows and all reds are connected to 3 posts(one for each color).

the rest is designing a plan that works in your system.


heres my plan, i'm not done with it yet but that basically it.
power bar serve as the main 15A breaker and supply 110v to psu, charger depending on the demand. Its not a good thing to always charge the battery when you are on 110v.
sorry its in french but you get the idea.
tartosuc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2013, 08:46 AM   #14
Senior Member
 
Bob Miller's Avatar
 
Name: Bob
Trailer: 1973 Hunter Compact II
California
Posts: 7,912
Hmmmm... Do it right the first time and you won't have top do it again.....

After doing more than a few re-wires of FGRV's I usually start out with the Converter/Charger. The weapon of choice, hands down, is the Progressive Dynamics PD-4045 power center. That gives you a 12 circuit 45 amp converter, a 3 stage battery charger and a AC dist panel. Best price (<$160?) seems to be from Frank Bear at his teardrop trailer site.

If boon docking is on your schedule, I would also suggest the somewhat larger Group 27 battery vs. the smaller Group 24, it's good for about 50% more usage and is only slightly larger/more expensive.

Also consider resale value, that nice new, modern, converter is a real plus in Scamps. A Disneyesque solution will be minus for most buyers.

$45/hr seems to be about 1/2 of what most dealers charge for labor and is a very good price. It takes about 2-3 hours to install a new power center in a stock Scamp and it might take longer if non-standard wiring is an issue..

To save further you might consider advertising for an electrician with RV experience on your local Craigslist etc. I was charging $25 an hour for RV work at my home garage and hardly ever burned down anything (LOL)

Good Luck



Bob Miller is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2013, 09:15 AM   #15
Senior Member
 
Bob Miller's Avatar
 
Name: Bob
Trailer: 1973 Hunter Compact II
California
Posts: 7,912
Schematic

Hmmmm... I think I can figure out the French part, but it looks like T-1 is connected across several 12VDC sources, exactly how does that work?

And you need to isolate the battery completely from the computer power supply. A fully charged battery will be at about 13.5 volts, even higher when the charger is running. Something that computer power supplies are not designed to deal with is backflow current.

BTW: Budget (meaning cheap) battery chargers are notorious for poor filtering, meaning that there can also be some AC component drifting around.



Quote:
Originally Posted by tartosuc View Post
what do want to know exactly?

basicaly a computer PSU has 3 voltages, 12v, 5v and 3,3v

the wires colors are.:
black negative
yellow 12v
red 5v.
there are other wires that need to be connected to power up the psu but i dont have my plan with me..ill find out and let you know...
all 3 volatges are regualted, safe for a computer so it's very good PSU to use in a small RV to power LEDS, recharge ipods etc.
ther are like 25 wires coming out of the psu, but inside of it all black, all yellows and all reds are connected to 3 posts(one for each color).

the rest is designing a plan that works in your system.


heres my plan, i'm not done with it yet but that basically it.
power bar serve as the main 15A breaker and supply 110v to psu, charger depending on the demand. Its not a good thing to always charge the battery when you are on 110v.
sorry its in french but you get the idea.


Bob Miller is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2013, 09:24 AM   #16
Senior Member
 
Carol H's Avatar
 
Name: Carol
Trailer: 22' Airstream Formerly 16' Scamp
British Columbia
Posts: 11,752
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandegor View Post
Thanks, Steve. As I work things out on this ethereal paper, it occurs to me that what I am after is systems design. I have no intention of doing this work myself, but what I need is to have a very concrete plan when I hit the shop for the $45/hour labor. In fact, if I could even shop around for the components myself, I could construct my budget accordingly.
If its wiring design plans you are after then a good starting point may be to take a look at the original Scamp wiring diagram found in the Documents center if you havent already. There are actually a number of solar wiring diagrams to be found there as well.

Scamp sets up their trailers to run everything off of 12v with the exception of 1 fluorescent light in the kitchen area and a 3 AC plugs - which do not work when not plugged in. Which means all other light fixtures, fans, pumps etc are 12v. Fridge on mine is a 3 way but I dont run it on 12v due to its ability to drain the system fast. Suspect the fridge you are proposing to use will do the same. When off the grid I run the fridge on propane. There are some newer RV fridges that are far more efficient on 12v than what I have but as others have said the cost of them would eat up your whole budget and then some. Scamp uses a converter which also handles the charging of the battery when plugged in or towing. I use as do many others a group 27 battery & can get by for a few days of dry camping without plugging in the solar using LED bulbs in the fixtures. Adding a solar panel which I did was simply a matter of purchasing a simple solar controller connecting it to the battery and then plugging in the solar panel to it when needed.

Another great resource for even more efficient system designs than what Scamps uses is 12 Volt Side of Life.

If I had a limited budget I would seriously consider starting with having the trailer rewired for 12v and adding a battery, converter/inverter, changing over my lights, pumps, fan to 12v to start with, using a cooler to start with and adding the solar system & more efficient fridge later when funds allowed.
Carol H is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2013, 09:39 AM   #17
Senior Member
 
Thomas G.'s Avatar
 
Name: Kinga DeRode
Trailer: For Sale Or Rent
Rooms to Let 50 Cents
Posts: 5,110
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandegor View Post
Hi Tom -

Good thoughts - I do realize that the refrigerator is, shall we say, less than ideal - but I also know my eating habits, and I'm more the icebox kind of gal - half and half for the coffee, some yogurt and Vitamin Water is about all that lives in my 'fridge. I like the idea of leaving the wiring as is - i.e., not rewiring the whole shebang but adding an inverter. So let me ask you this - what do you think of a kit like this:

Amazon.com : Windy Nation 100 Watt Solar Panel Complete Off-Grid Kit : Patio, Lawn & Garden

And, what size battery and inverter would be appropriate for such an array? Thanks.
Not a bad price on the Amazon kit. The controller is a pretty cheap one, though.

Alternatives:

Solar Cell, Solar Panel, Solar PV, Solar Products, Charge Controllers, Solar Trackers

or this:

Grape Solar 100 Watt Polycrystalline PV Solar Panel

And a controller like this:

Solar Cell, Solar Panel, Solar PV, Solar Products, Charge Controllers, Solar Trackers

If you are just running lights, a small 100 -200 watt inverter would work. I'd go with a group 27 deep cycle battery (Walmart or Costco)
__________________
UHaul and Burro owners, join the UHaul Campers on Facebook. https://www.facebook.com/groups/529276933859491/
Thomas G. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2013, 10:00 AM   #18
Senior Member
 
David B.'s Avatar
 
Name: Dave & Paula Brown
Trailer: Lil Snoozy
Arizona
Posts: 2,181
Registry
Mary, our 13' Scamp's Converter stopped working, so I just removed it & plugged in a smart charger into an under cabinet 110 volt outlet, and connected it directly to the group 27 battery, which also has a 100 watt solar panel much like the set-up you are looking at (Amazon.com : Windy Nation 100 Watt Solar Panel Complete Off-Grid Kit : Patio, Lawn & Garden). I also added a cheap 750 watt Black & Decker Inverter I had laying around, to charge our cell phones and lap top computer. We do have all LED lights, a NOVA KOOL 12 volt D/C only refrigerator/freezer, a Fantastic Fan, and a digital voltage readout that simply plugs into a 12 volt receptacle (lets you know how much charge is left in the battery). We rarely camp/travel where there is 110 volt hook-ups, and have been able to camp off the grid with this set-up for months at a time. Our tow vehicle is wired to charge the trailer battery when connected together, and have needed to use the tow vehicles batteries (I have 2 Marine Style batteries in our Jeep) when the solar panel didn't have optimal conditions to keep us toped off.
Best of Luck
Dave & Paula
David B. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2013, 10:04 AM   #19
Senior Member
 
tartosuc's Avatar
 
Name: Bernard
Trailer: 2007 uhaul ct13
Quebec
Posts: 222
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Miller View Post
Hmmmm... I think I can figure out the French part, but it looks like T-1 is connected across several 12VDC sources, exactly how does that work?

And you need to isolate the battery completely from the computer power supply. A fully charged battery will be at about 13.5 volts, even higher when the charger is running. Something that computer power supplies are not designed to deal with is backflow current.

BTW: Budget (meaning cheap) battery chargers are notorious for poor filtering, meaning that there can also be some AC component drifting around.

Like i said the plan need refining and is not the final one.

t1 is just a small dc dc converter to supply 5v to usbs... from 11 to 15v it will output a constant 5vdc...i figured it will not be affected by the 5v the psu will supply when on 110v..but my plan is to have it disconnecetd from the circuit when on 110v,(not drawned yet on the plan). I might also only use the 12v from psu and keep using the dcdc converter at all times to supply the usb ports...would make it simpler to wire and would only use 12v output from the psu.

The computer psu is isolated by the dpdt switch...only negatives are common and will not affect anything in the psu... I had a very similar setup in my other rv and worked like a charm.


I pesonnaly like doing things diffrently and find way to save money...I dont see how 45A would be neede in a small 13' trailer. So i dont want to pay for that...but i respect others choice...
Funny fact, i've been discussing m setup with a local rv repair guy and he's using a computer psu also in his tent trailer, in pretty much the same way i do it.
tartosuc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2013, 10:15 AM   #20
Senior Member
 
Thomas G.'s Avatar
 
Name: Kinga DeRode
Trailer: For Sale Or Rent
Rooms to Let 50 Cents
Posts: 5,110
Quote:
Originally Posted by tartosuc View Post
Like i said the plan need refining and is not the final one.

t1 is just a small dc dc converter to supply 5v to usbs... from 11 to 15v it will output a constant 5vdc...i figured it will not be affected by the 5v the psu will supply when on 110v..but my plan is to have it disconnecetd from the circuit when on 110v,(not drawned yet on the plan). I might also only use the 12v from psu and keep using the dcdc converter at all times to supply the usb ports...would make it simpler to wire and would only use 12v output from the psu.

The computer psu is isolated by the dpdt switch...only negatives are common and will not affect anything in the psu... I had a very similar setup in my other rv and worked like a charm.


I pesonnaly like doing things diffrently and find way to save money...I dont see how 45A would be neede in a small 13' trailer. So i dont want to pay for that...but i respect others choice...
Funny fact, i've been discussing m setup with a local rv repair guy and he's using a computer psu also in his tent trailer, in pretty much the same way i do it.
Interesting concept, but for the OP this seems excessively complicated.
__________________

__________________
UHaul and Burro owners, join the UHaul Campers on Facebook. https://www.facebook.com/groups/529276933859491/
Thomas G. is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
electrical


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Electrical Problem jimmied Electrical | Charging, Systems, Solar and Generators 55 11-06-2012 08:33 PM
Battery charger reccomendations? DrewSK Care and Feeding of Molded Fiberglass Trailers 6 10-20-2012 08:39 PM
Electrical. Hook Up? jstraight Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 12 09-11-2008 04:26 PM
Surfside electrical kentj Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 6 10-06-2007 08:35 AM
Electrical bdiscount Electrical | Charging, Systems, Solar and Generators 6 06-27-2006 08:21 PM

» Upcoming Events
No events scheduled in
the next 465 days.
» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:32 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
×