Fuse Under front Bunk on Scamp and shorting out - Page 4 - Fiberglass RV
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Old 10-06-2017, 12:59 PM   #61
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Name: Steve
Trailer: Scamp 13
California
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The white wire with the ground lug to the frame. My 1986 Scamp has that and is hooked up to one wire of the electric brakes. the ground is OK there but notice there is a wire next to it that is black. if properly wired the black wire would be hot and not connected to that lug. at minimum you have a bad color code for the trailer. Which would be hot wire Black and white wire ground on the RV 12 volt DC wiring. The nicks in your wiring you found were cut there while someone was testing wiring. Your 3 position fan switch is a problem with your fantastic fan.
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Old 10-06-2017, 02:12 PM   #62
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Trailer: Was A-Liner now 13f Scamp
Missouri
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steve will you come fix my fantastic fan my nest project!! I think we are getting her there but she needs a vom but maybe not!


bob
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Old 10-06-2017, 02:30 PM   #63
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The white wire with the ground lug to the frame. My 1986 Scamp has that and is hooked up to one wire of the electric brakes. the ground is OK there but notice there is a wire next to it that is black. if properly wired the black wire would be hot and not connected to that lug. at minimum you have a bad color code for the trailer. Which would be hot wire Black and white wire ground on the RV 12 volt DC wiring. The nicks in your wiring you found were cut there while someone was testing wiring. Your 3 position fan switch is a problem with your fantastic fan.
Steve, it's hard to tell from the picture but I am thinking that the second wire to the frame, next to the white one, is not black, but rather a bare copper solid ground wire for the converter. My long long trailer was set up that way.

Just goes to show that when it comes to old campers every one is unique after years of modifications and repairs. An adventure in every box!
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Old 10-06-2017, 03:13 PM   #64
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Name: Eric
Trailer: 1987 Casita 16
Illinois
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Lisa, I also think the wires to the frame are white and bare solid copper. My Casita was set up that way, with the converter using the ground, as well as the 120AC circuit. I think the idea is to tie in a good ground for the TT when it is hooked to the TV. That would give a ground also for the converter, on the 120AC side.

In the first picture -- is the brown wire hooked to anything? Does it go through the FG? If your fan works on either high or low on that switch, then you could cut those wires, and wire the center one and either the upper or lower of them together and you fan would work as it should. Tape up the other in case you want to use it later for a 12V plug.
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Old 10-06-2017, 03:22 PM   #65
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steve will you come fix my fantastic fan my nest project!! I think we are getting her there but she needs a vom but maybe not!


bob
Bob, we could sort it out but Missouri is a long way away.

As for her fantastic fan there is usually only 2 wires to connect fan control is usually on off power issue. You have no way to determine what they were doing with that switch since the Fantastic fan was a retrofit. I am more worried with a forward / reverse action in the fantastic fan being tied into this switch. throwing one switch one way and the other switch the wrong way could cause a direct short blowing the fuse. At this point we need a close up picture of the fan, a close up picture of the converter and another close up picture of the converter panel open. It would be helpful to trace the negative white wire at the battery connection and where it terminates at the other end. If I was closer than 120 miles I would go help her out.
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Old 10-06-2017, 03:57 PM   #66
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I'm going to go take some close-up photos as requested.
Thanks all for hanging in there with me and guiding me as I try to sort this out.
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Old 10-06-2017, 04:03 PM   #67
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Old 10-06-2017, 04:07 PM   #68
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Then the converter box insides.

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Old 10-06-2017, 04:24 PM   #69
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Then the converter box insides.
Attachment 112270
Attachment 112271
Attachment 112272
Is there a wiring diagram on the inside of the cover for your converter?
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Old 10-06-2017, 04:43 PM   #70
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When you look at the fan switch on your upper cabinet. you have 3 electrical connections. Middle one black wire. Then a red wire or a brown wire black seems to be wired power in. depending on whether you want high or low speed the power goes out to the fan either on the red wire or the brown wire. Now up at the fan you have a Black wire to the fan and you have a white wire to the fan. Where is the DC negative white wire coming from the battery negative or from a negative DC buss? I see the brown and red from the cabinet switch being Positive DC but I do not see a negative DC coming in. I see an extra black wire connected to the white wire negative of the fan.
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Old 10-06-2017, 05:07 PM   #71
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Fuse Under front Bunk on Scamp and shorting out


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Old 10-06-2017, 05:16 PM   #72
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Where is the DC negative white wire coming from the battery negative or from a negative DC buss? I see the brown and red from the cabinet switch being Positive DC but I do not see a negative DC coming in. I see an extra black wire connected to the white wire negative of the fan.

I am trying to understand what I am looking for. Give me a second to reread this question a few times. Sorry, it's all so new to me.
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Old 10-06-2017, 05:19 PM   #73
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Just re read this thread to see if I missed something. But I still think this is problem is going to be found in the 4/7 pin wiring area. With the movement the cable gets between the tug & TT something is not tight or is being chafed. Think all of us have seen trailers with a dimming/blinking tail light from a loose ground? Make sure all the connections are tight while you're digging around inside also .
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Old 10-06-2017, 05:24 PM   #74
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I have a question. What if I don't plug in the wire to the tow vehicle. If I drive around the corner and the fuse stays good by not plugging into the tow vehicle will this indicate that the problem is indeed in that 4/7 wire modification?
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Old 10-06-2017, 06:19 PM   #75
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Originally Posted by stevebaz View Post
Where is the DC negative white wire coming from the battery negative or from a negative DC buss?

The white wire is coming from the battery negative. I chased it down from the battery to the front of the Scamp where the portipotty is, then it goes along side the refrigerator area.


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Old 10-06-2017, 06:19 PM   #76
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I have a question. What if I don't plug in the wire to the tow vehicle. If I drive around the corner and the fuse stays good by not plugging into the tow vehicle will this indicate that the problem is indeed in that 4/7 wire modification?
Sure couldn't hurt to isolate it down a bit. Not sure how far you drove before the fuse went though.
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Old 10-06-2017, 06:23 PM   #77
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The fuse tends to go after about 2 miles. I haven't tried a shorter distance than that, so maybe it goes quicker. I do know that the fuse doesn't blow when checking all of the lights from a stand still position. It's only after there is movement.
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Old 10-06-2017, 07:00 PM   #78
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The first picture with the solid copper stiff wires is your high voltage household wiring. Go ahead and close that up you won't be messing with that at all.
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Old 10-06-2017, 07:08 PM   #79
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Trailer: Was A-Liner now 13f Scamp
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blowing fuse

Lisa at this point why do you need to have it hooked up while driving if you cannot isolate it I would think about giving this up take the fuse out while driving and reinstall the fuse when you get where your going.

I don't see how your battery could be bad if you have power when you stop setup and camp! But you could remove the battery and have it checked or how about this drive it down to the auto parts store they can check it for you! Maybe there is a sharp guy there who knows 12v also beg beg beg

There are some things we may not be able to fix saying that I don't know what is going on here and it appears hopeless.

We are all trying to help from a computer and it just cant work! wish it could. I can tell you this I am 75 and I have had to give up for awhile on some things!

best regards and good luck

bob
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Old 10-06-2017, 07:10 PM   #80
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In this attachment here...

What's with that black wire connected to the green wire hanging out of the hatch at the bottom? Is that rubbing on something?

Those yellow snap-on wire connectors are the worst. I'd replace all those connectors while I was at it, whether they were causing the problem or not. There is absolutely no moisture protection with those and they are located right at the hatch which is probably a great big vent to the outdoors right?

That's a little snakes nest right there isn't it?

That area also seems to include the cable coming from the tow vehicle.

We're having fun now!!! Lol.
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