Fuse Under front Bunk on Scamp and shorting out - Page 5 - Fiberglass RV
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Old 10-06-2017, 07:36 PM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lisantica View Post
The fuse tends to go after about 2 miles. I haven't tried a shorter distance than that, so maybe it goes quicker. I do know that the fuse doesn't blow when checking all of the lights from a stand still position. It's only after there is movement.

Is with movement... or is it with starting the engine? Maybe the tow vehicle has a relay that only powers-up an auxiliary power wire when the alternator is producing a charging current. Try just starting the engine for a minute without driving and see if that blows the fuse or not... Just another clue to add to the mix.
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Old 10-06-2017, 08:24 PM   #82
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The last picture in post 75 -- could you email me that as a jpg so I can enlarge it to see what is going on. also where is that picture taken
ericallyn@sbcglobal.net
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Old 10-06-2017, 08:30 PM   #83
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I've been thinking about it going after a few miles -- that would be about the time that the battery on the TV has recharged the TV battery from the starting, and with it full, maybe that is when it sends more power to the camper, and that blows the fuse. If somewhere in the 7-4 conversion, someone took off from the running lights to charge the battery, they might have too much power going through the wire for the charging. Just another idea....
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Old 10-06-2017, 08:57 PM   #84
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Thank you all.
So many ideas you have that I will look into.

First, Eric, I sent you the photo to your email.

Next, tomorrow I will start the van and have it run for a bit to see if it blows the fuse.

I will clean up that mess in the refrigerator access panel, it does look quite messy.

Last, I may just do the "remove the fuse as I drive" solution, but I'd like to exhaust the other possibilities of having it work as intended first. Plus I have the entire Scamp undone and it's a hot mess in there....I'd like to think that I can get it sorted after gaining access to all of those areas.

Oh, I did take my battery into AutoZone and they tested it as good, it's only one year old.
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Old 10-06-2017, 09:04 PM   #85
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After hooking up, and before driving, you could wiggle wires, starting with the 7-pin.
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Old 10-06-2017, 09:05 PM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo View Post
After hooking up, and before driving, you could wiggle wires, starting with the 7-pin.
Funny you should mention that, I was wiggling the Fantastic Fan wires today in hopes that that would cause a blown fuse.

I will try your suggestion tomorrow morning.
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Old 10-06-2017, 10:17 PM   #87
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Lisa, do you drive with the Fridge on? When you clean up that area, do two things, 1) see which wires are 12V and which are 120AC I think most of the stuff in there is 12V, because of the connectors that are used there. It looks like the green one may have a spot that is bad -- look at it closely.
2) the yellow and pink that are in the picture -- do they carry current?

If they are moving a lot during the ride, they may be part of the problem, since the green should be a light, if it get5s massed during the driving, it could be the problem. Could you take a couple of more pictures in that area, a little higher, and a little more to each side. Thanks
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Old 10-06-2017, 10:54 PM   #88
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Hook up your trailer and take it to a large empty parking lot. Disconnect your 4 pin connector and put a new fuse in your battery line that keeps blowing. Now carefully drive around the parking lot without avoiding speed bumps, bumps, or dips, rack up a couple of miles and see if you blow the fuse.

Also after the fuse is blown do your trailer lights work properly when hooked up to the truck?
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Old 10-07-2017, 12:15 AM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lisantica View Post
Originally Posted by stevebaz View Post
Where is the DC negative white wire coming from the battery negative or from a negative DC buss?

The white wire is coming from the battery negative. I chased it down from the battery to the front of the Scamp where the portipotty is, then it goes along side the refrigerator area.

Attachment 112280
Attachment 112281
Attachment 112282
Post 75 picture 2 origional Scamp trailer wires. You have a non conventional hook up to your 4 pin trailer connector. Post 5 picture. The trailer 7 pin wiring origionaly the black wire went to the battery positive for the charge from the tug. The brown went to the tail lights. The red is a turn signal, the green is a turn signal. White to battery negative and ground to the frame. Yellow to the back up light. The 4 pin connector would normally be yellow to trailer red, green to trailer green, brown to trailer brown and white to trailer white. In your connection trailer white and trailer red are correct. But green to trailer green and Brown to trailer brown are not connected like they should be. In order to make this work the wiring at the other end of the jackeded harness would be changed to acomadate the rewire.

First thing to check is the black wire attached to the four pin trailer connector. Follow this rubber harness to where it enters the trailer the black line comming out of this harness use to connect someway back to the battery. It must not do this now if the trailer lights are to have a chance of working properly. There will have to be a wire reangement at the tail lights to accomadate dropping the brown wire and rearangement of the black and green wire for the tail light. There is serious rearangement on the tail lights on this trailer so be carefull when going through the wiring trying to solve these problems.

This probably why you ended up with a melted tail light after some was working on your trailer.
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Old 10-07-2017, 06:35 AM   #90
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Thank you Eric and Steve.
To address a few questions:

I do not drive with the refrigerator on.

I will take more photos in about half an hour, should be some daylight then.

As for checking if wires have current, I don't know how to do that yet. I bought a Centech 7 function digital multimeter from HarborFreight and only know how to check the state of my 12 volt battery at this time. I will check out some YouTube videos on how to check if a wire has current. This is why it takes me a little time to address your questions, I have to learn how to do what you're asking by watching videos and reading threads about it, then go and try it myself.

I'm thinking about purchasing a new 7 wire harness from Scamp (maybe elsewhere if they are all universal), and going back to a stock configuration with the exception that I use the adapter for 7 round to 4 flat pin.

I did buy these items from Amazon the other day and they are scheduled to arrive today:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 10-07-2017, 07:17 AM   #91
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Trailer: Was A-Liner now 13f Scamp
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a start

lisa

you are off to a start you got yourself a meter you now know what 12v is at least off the battery.

You have something very complicated to find I admire you for sticking to it. This problem is going to be something very simple when you find it and as you gain expertize with your meter and concepts.

No matter the running of the car, looking at it until you find where the hot side of 12v is coming in contact with your trailer frame or another ground it is hopeless.

As I think about this I would start back at the converter and unhook every circuit hook one back up only drive with only that one and see if it shorts out. If it stays good then hook up another circuit drive again so forth see if it shorts out continue doing this!

This is going to be a long process due to you not understanding electricity and circuits and grounds and ground faults. I have had these and they drove me crazy.

I still say do a search and find a local camping club. Save yourself a lot of aggravation and worry. I am not an expert but I would bet it I was there I could locate your problem and do it willingly but I am not so I am offering you the next best thing.

I am thinking you have trouble asking for help please don't feel that way. You have to know in your associations someone who can help you just someone to come look at it maybe! sometimes new eyes can see new things!
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Old 10-07-2017, 07:47 AM   #92
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Thanks for hanging in there with me k0wtz.

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Old 10-07-2017, 07:52 AM   #93
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an add on

One thing and I don't want to even think about it is rip out each circuit and put a new one in very complicated not expensive but lots of hard work. I wouldn't do it. period!

good scamping

bob

oh don't let this interfere with your campin
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Old 10-07-2017, 08:38 AM   #94
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New development.
I have tried to make the fuse blow and now I cannot.

The main difference between all other days, when it blew, and today is I have jiggled the wires at the refrigerator hatch location and have adjusted them by jostling them for a picture.
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Old 10-07-2017, 08:49 AM   #95
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Lisa start digging around there hard


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Old 10-07-2017, 12:30 PM   #96
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Those yellow scotch loc connectors were put there by Scamp. They did the same thing in my trailer. The wire bundle running accross the fridge hatch opening were orgionally held down to the floor with metal clamps. If you have any of those clamps there check under them for shorts. That bundle of wires also run along the metal of the hatch opening and could rub through there.

Will you be going to the rally in Quartzsite?

I wont be at lake casita rally this year reservations and scheduling didn't work out for me but i am considering going out to Quartzsite in Feburary
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Old 10-07-2017, 12:31 PM   #97
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Those yellow scotch loc connectors were put there by Scamp. They did the same thing in my trailer. The wire bundle running accross the fridge hatch opening were orgionally held down to the floor with metal clamps. If you have any of those clamps there check under them for shorts. That bundle of wires also run along the metal of the hatch opening and could rub through there.

Will you be going to the rally in Quartzsite?

I wont be at lake casita rally this year reservations and scheduling didn't work out for me but i am considering going out to Quartzsite in Feburary.
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Old 10-07-2017, 12:33 PM   #98
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Originally Posted by stevebaz View Post
Will you be going to the rally in Quartzsite?
Yes, I plan on attending the Quartzsite rally. I will be at the Ojai one as well.
If Scamp put those yellow connectors there, I am now rethinking poking around in that area.
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Old 10-07-2017, 12:41 PM   #99
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steve if it matters I am going to go! be nice to meet you.


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Old 10-07-2017, 02:07 PM   #100
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Lisa, if you are not getting it to blow now, then that is the area of the trouble. Separate the wires, tape up any that look funny, and then relax a little, camp a lot, and see if it blows again anytime soon. When or IF it blows again, you can start through that area again, by then you'll have had a chance to work with the electrical tools, had a little time to read and study the workings, etc. and can tackle it again.
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