Get rid of the 110v cord

[Steve L.]

Chris implies a second reason I'm good with on-board items. I have pairs (or more) of any number of items because I forgot the original and had(?) to buy another on the road. Apparently, despite a pretty decent checklist in the rush to go I sometimes don't use it. Heaven forbid I forgot the cord with the specialty marine connection; I couldn't be going to Wally's world for a replacement. Although I suppose (haven't checked myself) someone must make a 30a marine to 30a RV adapter (edit: Camco 55522 for a nice one, $40) you could stash somewhere in the trailer for when/if you forget.


But, go for it. It's just not for me.

[Paul O.]

Originally Posted by Steve L.

Everyone’s different, a fact that I’m almost always grateful for. I want it all onboard all the time. If I could sort through how to do it to my satisfaction, I’d probably put the water hose in a cubby somewhere too.

I found the coiled, semi rigid plastic, hose works best and it fits in another one of those 5x5 fence post sleeves.

I really like your signature byline!

[Darral T.]

I'm with others on staying "onboard". The ONLY gripe I have is that it gets hung up around the converter or something inside the compartment at times. This is VERY annoying when you're trying to hook up and need that extra 6 or 7" and have to stop to go inside and untangle it! Scamp could have done a better job of compartmentalizing the cord somewhat back there to prevent that. I would do it but it's next to impossible to get in there and work with the water heater after the construction is finished. And, I dont want to pull the bench.

But if anyone has experienced this and has a simple remedy, I'm all "eyes" .

Oh and let me "borrow" your idea. I've always been flattered if someone wanted to use one of my original mods and certainly never considered someone ripping off my idea.

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by Darral T.

...The ONLY gripe I have is that it gets hung up around the converter or something inside the compartment at times....

But if anyone has experienced this and has a simple remedy, I'm all "eyes" . ..

I SO AGREE! The first two or three times I set up camp after buying the Scamp, I had to go back inside and untangle the darn thing. And once it was in the rain. Such a PIA when the bed is made up!

Solution? Dump the pull out cord!... See the above posts!

And I do like the under trailer fence post idea. I just put a 64 inch sewer hose under the trailer in a similar way. It was actually a bit of a job to do, what with stuff in the way.

[Casita Greg]

Originally Posted by Paul O.

A detachable power cord can be stolen or left behind, as pointed out. Yes, and so can your barbeque, lawn chairs, water hose, etc. Poor argument there IMO. The male connector attached to the trailer can get damaged and that whole approach seems expensive to me. The male connector is recessed inside a protective cover flap that covers the prongs when not in use. How exactly would this get "damaged". I've owned boats and RV's for over 40 years, and all have been equipped with twist-lock removable cords. I have yet to damage one or have one stolen to this day. Again, not a strong argument to back that statement, especially without any facts showing this to be a real-world problem. Also, as to the question of it being expensive, assume for a moment that you had a "senior moment" and did forget to unplug your trailer. I think that most folks would agree that replacing a $20 cracked plastic cord end would be a lot cheaper than ripping half of your $200 converter's guts out as you are pulling away.

To avoid those drawbacks, I mounted a 5x5 fence post sleeve under the back of the Scamp and took the power cord straight down through the floor and into the 5x5 sleeve. Since the sleeve is below the frame and tied to it, there are about three inches of the power cord exposed, but protected by a piece of a rubber hose. And how is that dangling cord end, and the 5X5 tube mounted underneath where they would be more prone to damage from bottoming out or from contact with road debris, protected when compared to a totally removable cord that I place in the safekeeping of my gear box well out of harm's way in any better. When in use, the cord comes out of the end of the sleeve. When stowed, the cord is folded in three, the fold is held small with a velcro tape and all is shoved into the sleeve and closed. I just can't see how this is in any way quicker or more convenient than just coiling it up and throwing it in the truck. The purpose of getting rid of the permanently attached cord to begin with was to not have to fight getting the cord into some small inconvenient space. Pick it up, coil it up, and you're done. I can probably store a few other things in that fence post sleeve if needed. I hope my description is clear enough to be of some help. I don't remember if I have pictures.

Not trying to start an argument, but I'm just not seeing any real benefit from your installation.

[Raz]

My trailer came with the 30A. Marinco cord Casita Greg has. It's top shelf in terms of quality but is quite heavy and when installed on the side of my trailer you could see the fiberglass flexing. With no AC or other high demand appliances, I bought the socket John has and adapted it. I replaced the main breaker to 15 A. and use a standard 14 ga. extension cord. It works well for my limited use. Raz

[stevebaz]

If your planning to make your own detachable cord Just make sure your trailer side is a male connector not a female connector. Other wise your jumper cord will have 2 male ends on it making it extremely dangerous should you plug in to the post, then plug into your trailer. This would leave energized exposed poles on the end of the cord. I would also suggest you use industrial rated twist lock connectors for your trailer connection.

If you used commercial pre-designed entry cord kit this will already have the proper connectors with the electrical safety requirement.

[goalie39]

Originally Posted by Darral T.

I'm with others on staying "onboard". The ONLY gripe I have is that it gets hung up around the converter or something inside the compartment at times. This is VERY annoying when you're trying to hook up and need that extra 6 or 7" and have to stop to go inside and untangle it! Scamp could have done a better job of compartmentalizing the cord somewhat back there to prevent that. I would do it but it's next to impossible to get in there and work with the water heater after the construction is finished. And, I dont want to pull the bench.

But if anyone has experienced this and has a simple remedy, I'm all "eyes" .

When hooking-up, I use an extension cord plugged into the pull-out cord, and keep the pull-out cable neatly coiled inside the compartment (and clean). If I need a longer cord, I can use some of the pull-out, but so far the extension has been long enough.

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by goalie39

When hooking-up, I use an extension cord plugged into the pull-out cord, and keep the pull-out cable neatly coiled inside the compartment (and clean). If I need a longer cord, I can use some of the pull-out, but so far the extension has been long enough.

I assume you mean a standard 15 amp type cord. That's a fine solution as long as your power draw is low enough. But there is the rub, do you REALLY know how much power you are drawing? Most people will not, and it would be easy to exceed the cord's rating which is dangerous. In fact, with the added length and smaller wire size, the voltage drop will be more, and available current even lower. And all this is still protected by a 30 amp breaker (in most cases) so really there is no over current protection at all.

So if you go this route be sure you do not draw too much power, and know that even 15 might be too much depending on other variables.

[goalie39]

Originally Posted by gordon2

I assume you mean a standard 15 amp type cord.

Nope, I'm using a 30 amp cord, but that's a good point that everyone should be aware of power needs and use the appropriate cable. For me, I would be fine with a 15 amp cable if not using A/C, but then you need to use an adapter too.

[Darral T.]

Goalie I'm asking the same question that Gordon just posted. You're losing your potential 30A power supply. I use an a/c combined with heat strip. While I can hook up and use it that way, I would not do it as the norm...especially when I'm running heat (up to 14A draw on the heat strip!).

NOW, as another alternative, a gentleman driving a big diesel pusher GAVE me about a 25' "extension" 30A cord while in Foley, AL this spring. If that's what you mean, then it would work and I have considered it. Just cut the one off in the Scamp and leave the "pigtail" where I can get to it. But then you still have store the cord and that space will be wasted next to the wh. A compartment door sure would be nice there! :-) THAT's an alternative I'd like to see from the factory if it wasnt a strength issue.

Oh well...just a minor aggravation in the big scheme of things.

Originally Posted by goalie39

When hooking-up, I use an extension cord plugged into the pull-out cord, and keep the pull-out cable neatly coiled inside the compartment (and clean). If I need a longer cord, I can use some of the pull-out, but so far the extension has been long enough.

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by goalie39

..For me, I would be fine with a 15 amp cable if not using A/C, but then you need to use an adapter too.

Thanks for adding to caution.. and please allow me one more.

Its still easy to exceed 15 amps even without AC. I have a toaster oven in the house that draws 11.5 amps by itself, my RV ceramic heater draws 7 or 11 (low vs hi), and a microwave draw a a lot also. And then there's the coffee maker, a real power hog. Running two or more appliances can put you over. Of course if you are on a 15 amp circuit like at home, the home breaker will protect you. But on a 30 amp circuit you could go over 15 pretty easy.

Use a 30 amp extension cord, as you do, on a 30 amp supply and you're golden.

[Jim Bennett]

After over 20 years with a fixed power cord, I finally changed mine out in my Escape 19, mostly because it would tangle on things when stowed, but as well some of the little fingers/tabs inside the port had broken, and it was a sure route in for just about anything.

After using the detachable cord for a couple years, I am sold. I will never use a fixed cord again. I have ZERO fear of it being left behind, and almost none of it ever being stolen. I will go with what works good.

Mine is 30A, but it is easy to make a short adapter to 15A, and just use a regular 15A extension cord, which is handy when A/C is not needed, or on that very slim chance the 30A cord goes missing.

[Paul O.]

Originally Posted by Casita Greg

Not trying to start an argument, but I'm just not seeing any real benefit from your installation.

Well, on a lighter note, I left out a disclaimer: YMMV

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

..
Mine is 30A, but it is easy to make a short adapter to 15A, and just use a regular 15A extension cord, which is handy when A/C is not needed, or on that very slim chance the 30A cord goes missing.

I had not thought of that (after converting my power inlet)! I do carry a 50 foot 15 amp cord just in case.. but with a small adapter I could plug it right into the male end on the camper* in case of the theft of my 30 amp shore power cord.

Darn! Just when I thought I had my camper properly equiped, I have to add one more thing. This one should do nicely.

or this one on Amazon.

---
* all cautions previously mentioned still apply!

[Glenn Baglo]

I'd have to find someplace to put a detachable cord that wasn't more hassle than wrapping it in a paper towel and feeding it into its compartment.
BTW, that's seven years of debris you see in that compartment. I put nothing else in there.

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo

I'd have to find someplace to put a detachable cord that wasn't more hassle than wrapping it in a paper towel and feeding it into its compartment.

You could store it, and a whole bunch of other stuff where it goes now.

That is one of the nice things about the detachable, is that it is a nice neat coil, and takes up very little space.

Until one has tried both methods, you can't really appreciate the other one. Both work though, and the camping experience is the same.

[Glenn Baglo]

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

You could store it, and a whole bunch of other stuff where it goes now.

To do that I would have to lower the counter extension, roll back the mattress topper, remove cushions and hold up the bench cover with one hand while tossing the cord into the back corner.
Or, I could unlock my box on the back of the trailer ( two locks and a ratchet strap ) and stuff it in there. <_<

[Jim Bennett]

I thought it looked like it was just the dinette seat. It is nice when it stows easily. I used an outside hatch to stow mine, and will likely do the same with the 5.0TA.

[Borrego Dave]

Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo

BTW, that's seven years of debris you see in that compartment. I put nothing else in there.

Time to call in house keeping Glenn, what a mess