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Old 02-05-2023, 10:03 AM   #1
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Name: Jeremy
Trailer: in the market
Texas
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HALP I screwed up

So I bought a 94 Scamp fifth wheel last year, not really knowing what I was doing, and seem to have really got myself up a creek w/o a paddle. The top line question is basically should I cut my losses on it and try to find a buyer?

I bought it from its second owner. According to them, the original owner removed the propane, so they’d converted it to 50 amp to be able to run the electric stove + water heater. When I bought it, the seller had it hooked up to a normal wall outlet using an adapter, and it was all working. A few months later, getting it ready to take out, I tried to get it hooked up again and it started throwing all the breakers when I try to hook it up to a house wall outlet. I called some friends to troubleshoot and they all said they were stumped, so I called an electrician.

According to the electrician, the system the original owner put in is a DIY nightmare. He found a short, but also the wires are all in the wrong places and need replacing. The converter and breaker box are still for a 30amp (he said the converter’s just a “normal house one”, not for an RV, and there’s a separate homemade ground wire to get a 4 prong to work on a 3 prong, I’m not totally understanding what that means), and my options to get it all running properly are either: convert it all to 50amp (very expensive for me at 2k for labor plus parts), or convert it all back to 30amp (very very expensive, 3k + parts.) He charged 500 for the 2 hours it took to figure all this out. I think I could use a second opinion, but I don’t have another 500 for that. I called the seller, and he was really helpful (I'm confident he didn't pull a fast one on me,) but since he's not an electrician either, he couldn't figure it out.

Ideally I want this to be able to boondock someday, which I now understand it was pretty dumb to buy one without propane for that. The thousands I would need to spend to get it just operating, I had planned to spend on getting it set up to boondock. It seems like I should cut my losses and try to sell it and find a different trailer, but I’m also kind of stumped on how to sell it because who’s going to want this kind of a project?
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Old 02-05-2023, 10:23 AM   #2
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If you decide to keep it and want to Boondock then everything you do should be geared to that outcome.
If you decide to sell, probably at a loss at least the headache is gone, lick your wounds and move on.
Good luck with your decision.
Fred
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Old 02-05-2023, 10:54 AM   #3
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Name: Charlie Y
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Oregon
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Never know - there may be an electrician out there looking for a trailer who would like a good deal..........


Advertising is free online, after all!
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Old 02-05-2023, 11:39 AM   #4
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Name: Dave
Trailer: 2013Escape 21
Iowa
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If you’re looking for an opinion mine would be to cut your losses, advertise honestly, hope you can find a do it yourself electrician buyer. That said I’d advertise it for what I paid for it if I bought it right hoping the strong market would allow me to recoup my investment but being ready to take somewhat less.

I’ve made my share of mistakes on “second hand” purchases in my life. Promise yourself you’ll turn over a bird clock at an auction before you buy it and see there are no guts to run the clock in the back before you bid $7 for it. Etc. Etc. Etc.
Good luck
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Old 02-05-2023, 12:03 PM   #5
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Washington
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My grandpa used to say...."Son.....sometimes ya gotta just know when to move on!" I recommend you follow grandpa's advice. Good luck.
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Old 02-05-2023, 01:13 PM   #6
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Name: Jack
Trailer: Casita Liberty
Virginia
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Somebody may want to do the work themselves if the body is good. I do not understand why somebody would want a 50 amp in a camper that normally would be 30 amp.
I would follow the advice here. Cut your loss.

Let us know what happens.
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Old 02-05-2023, 01:44 PM   #7
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Tennessee
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I agree, it would be better to move on than to pay that much to fix it. Electric is a black hole for me but for lots of folks it's no big deal. I think you'll be able to find buyers. I don't think I would even try to explain what is wrong, just tell them to assume the worst and expect to rewire everything. Then when they find out it's not so bad they'll feel like they got a bargain.
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Old 02-05-2023, 04:10 PM   #8
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Here's my 2cents worth....


....before I put it up for sale, I would contact any local community college or high school that has a shop class in electricity. Ask the teacher if
he/she would be interested in taking the trailer and doing a total re-wire, as a class project, with you funding the materials.

Good learning opportunity plus a good deal for you.


Just a thought...
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Old 02-05-2023, 09:46 PM   #9
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Name: Pat
Trailer: 2006 Scamp 19 Deluxe
Enchanted Mountains of Western New York State on the Amish Trail in Cattaraugus County!
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I like what Theresa said. But one has to understand that 30 amp stick built is not the same as 30 amp RV built. The plugs are wired different. (https://crowsurvival.com/can-i-plug-...-dryer-outlet/) And like any RV, they are money pits!!! If it is a '94 there are other things you will end up wanting to change out.
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Old 02-05-2023, 09:48 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by theresa p View Post
Here's my 2cents worth....


....before I put it up for sale, I would contact any local community college or high school that has a shop class in electricity. Ask the teacher if
he/she would be interested in taking the trailer and doing a total re-wire, as a class project, with you funding the materials.

Good learning opportunity plus a good deal for you.


Just a thought...
Actually, not a bad idea. But, Jeremy will want to independently verify quality of work done.
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Old 02-05-2023, 10:42 PM   #11
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The first trailer I bought had problems with the charger. The seller tried to hide the problem by having the trailer plugged into a power source. I brought along a friend who owned trailers for many years to help me evaluate it. He didn’t catch the problem. Realized there was a problem on our first camping trip, which was off grid. So, don’t feel too bad.

When purchasing a second trailer, I hired a mobile repair guy to look it over. I paid him $300 or $400, but it was money well spent.

Your best bet is to cut your loses.

But you need to understand what is involved in modifying a trailer for off grid camping. I always recommend Will Prouse’s DIY Mobile solar site. He has some great videos on You Tube & a book. One thing that I quickly appreciated when setting up my solar system was the space (aka, solar basement) needed for the solar controller, inverter, ATS, fuse boxes, and your lithium batteries. Not to mention available rooftop real estate for your panels. I mention this because you should add this into your evaluation of your next purchase.

I have a love/hate relationship with 5th wheels. I love the idea of the bed above the cabin. But I hate the idea of losing half thevtrailer bed. A few months we were dog training with a couple who had a fifth wheel. There was no room in their truck bed for training equipment & dog crates. Your situation is probably different, but a fifth wheel definitely counters my need for a full truck bed.

As a general aside, it does bother me when owners on the site post their intentions to remove the stovetop or refrigerator or AC unit in their cabin to make room for ... not sure what. Truly, they would be better off tent or car camping. Why make a perfectly good camper unusable to most folks.

I even recall a thread discussing removing propane tanks & going totally electric.
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Old 02-06-2023, 06:57 AM   #12
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Name: Jack
Trailer: Casita Liberty
Virginia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jane P. View Post
The first trailer I bought had problems with the charger. The seller tried to hide the problem by having the trailer plugged into a power source. I brought along a friend who owned trailers for many years to help me evaluate it. He didn’t catch the problem. Realized there was a problem on our first camping trip, which was off grid. So, don’t feel too bad.

When purchasing a second trailer, I hired a mobile repair guy to look it over. I paid him $300 or $400, but it was money well spent.

Your best bet is to cut your loses.

But you need to understand what is involved in modifying a trailer for off grid camping. I always recommend Will Prouse’s DIY Mobile solar site. He has some great videos on You Tube & a book. One thing that I quickly appreciated when setting up my solar system was the space (aka, solar basement) needed for the solar controller, inverter, ATS, fuse boxes, and your lithium batteries. Not to mention available rooftop real estate for your panels. I mention this because you should add this into your evaluation of your next purchase.

I have a love/hate relationship with 5th wheels. I love the idea of the bed above the cabin. But I hate the idea of losing half thevtrailer bed. A few months we were dog training with a couple who had a fifth wheel. There was no room in their truck bed for training equipment & dog crates. Your situation is probably different, but a fifth wheel definitely counters my need for a full truck bed.

As a general aside, it does bother me when owners on the site post their intentions to remove the stovetop or refrigerator or AC unit in their cabin to make room for ... not sure what. Truly, they would be better off tent or car camping. Why make a perfectly good camper unusable to most folks.

I even recall a thread discussing removing propane tanks & going totally electric.
You make some good points. I do not understand removing stuff and not having a bathroom. At my age, pulling over and using the camper for a bathroom break is common for us.
I live by the rule that it is better to have it and not use it than to need it and not have it. LOL
We almost bought an electric camper. After we got the Casita we found out that would of been a mistake for us. Propane is great when needed.
On my Casita, I ordered every option except the microwave.
( $39 at Walmart)
We have never used the awning. But one day, we might.
I had some upgrades done and added an AC soft-start.
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Old 02-06-2023, 08:55 AM   #13
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Name: Perry
Trailer: 2016 Bigfoot 25RQ
Lanesboro, Minnesota, between Whalan and Fountain
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Originally Posted by Jane P. View Post
I have a love/hate relationship with 5th wheels. I love the idea of the bed above the cabin. But I hate the idea of losing half thevtrailer bed. A few months we were dog training with a couple who had a fifth wheel. There was no room in their truck bed for training equipment & dog crates. Your situation is probably different, but a fifth wheel definitely counters my need for a full truck bed.
With the Andersen rail hitch for our Escape 5th wheel we only lost between 1-2 cubic feet, not even close to "half the trailer bed" to justify making that statement. It amazed me how much space we still had in the back bed. Most owners camp and don't haul the proverbial "Kitchen Sink", but perhaps in your situation you needed space for huge, bulky items. However, for the other 95% of small 5th wheels owners the bed lost is very, very minimal.

Ironically, I also notice you're hauling with a '07 Chevy Tahoe that would have less space available than our F150's 6 1/2' box, but perhaps could handle a couple of slightly taller items. Our larger items go behind the front seats of our F150, so a easily a wash vs your Tahoe.

Enjoy,

Perry
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Old 02-06-2023, 11:01 AM   #14
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Name: John
Trailer: Bigfoot 25 RQ
Ohio
Posts: 325
Not sure how hard the scamps are to work on I.E where the shore power comes in and where the panel and converter resides. It seems to me that this project is diy doable with a little patience and study. Remove the shore power connection completely and distribution panel. Buy a new progressive dynamics power center. Pull a brand new 30 amp cable and install a new shorepower inlet on the outside (a smart power inlet would be my choice.

Methodically hook up each 110 to the power center, I expect there’s no more than 5, if you have air use a 20 amp breaker. Hook up the shore power to a 30 amp
Rehookup up all the dc connectors

Make sure the chassis ground is solid and connected.
Explorist life has great tutorials and would be a wealth of knowledge.

You’ll need a helper , preferably someone who has a basic understanding of electrical.

I expect less than 1000 in parts, more like 700.

If your electrician is charging 250 an hour
I’d get a different electrician by the way
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Old 02-06-2023, 04:46 PM   #15
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Trailer: Bigfoot 19 ft
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Perryb67 View Post
With the Andersen rail hitch for our Escape 5th wheel we only lost between 1-2 cubic feet, not even close to "half the trailer bed" to justify making that statement. It amazed me how much space we still had in the back bed. Most owners camp and don't haul the proverbial "Kitchen Sink", but perhaps in your situation you needed space for huge, bulky items. However, for the other 95% of small 5th wheels owners the bed lost is very, very minimal.

Ironically, I also notice you're hauling with a '07 Chevy Tahoe that would have less space available than our F150's 6 1/2' box, but perhaps could handle a couple of slightly taller items. Our larger items go behind the front seats of our F150, so a easily a wash vs your Tahoe.

Enjoy,

Perry
Very observant Perry - my complements.

We participate in AKC retriever Field Trials & Hunt Tests. Our BF trailer supports our hobby of retriever training & competition. We use every inch of our Tahoe for dog crates, water & training equipment. I prefer using an SUV because the dogs share the AC, hearer & radio while under way. Weirdly, enough, we are able to access equipment & outer ware easier in our Tahoe, than a truck bed.

The couple I was referring to have an Arctic Fox fifth wheel, and their 3 Labrador retrievers ride, without crates, behind the driver & passenger.

Maybe the size of their 5th wheel dictates the amount of space needed for their hitch system. But they have very little room for more than a storage box, and other miscellaneous duffel bags.

As much as I like the idea of the cabin set up in a fifth wheel, it is totally impractical for me. Hopefully, a fifth wheel would satisfy Jeremy’s needs if he wants to get another one.

Another general aside: I believe that any trailer you’re looking at is a compromise between something that will satisfy all your needs and something you can afford and take down the road and enjoy camping in. The same regarding, in my case, a SUV vs a Ford 150 or 250.

And people sell & buy new trailer as their camping experience and needs evolve. But it is important for first time buyers to think about how every trade off will effect their camping experience.
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Old 02-06-2023, 05:37 PM   #16
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It seems to me that this project is diy doable with a little patience and study. Remove the shore power connection completely and distribution panel. Buy a new progressive dynamics power center. Pull a brand new 30 amp cable and install a new shorepower inlet on the outside (a smart power inlet would be my choice.

Methodically hook up each 110 to the power center, I expect there’s no more than 5, if you have air use a 20 amp breaker. Hook up the shore power to a 30 amp
Rehookup up all the dc connectors

Make sure the chassis ground is solid and connected.
Explorist life has great tutorials and would be a wealth of knowledge.

You’ll need a helper , preferably someone who has a basic understanding of electrical.

I expect less than 1000 in parts, more like 700.

If your electrician is charging 250 an hour
I’d get a different electrician by the way
I agree with Oldwave. If you like the trailer’s floor plan and feel the cabin and outside Fiberglass shell is in good shape, it may be worth the cost for you to redo the electronics.

But it’s best to have a competent RV or marine electrician do the work.

I’m not a DIY person, but I do want to understand what is involved with any major project or expense involving my trailer. In addition to reading past threads on the Escape Forum & this Forum, I check out You Tube & the Internet. You should take the time to understand what’s involved.

I have been very lucky in finding RV repair shops & mobile repair services run by honest professionals with experience in “vintage” trailers that do excellent, “clean” work at competitive prices. A seasoned professional will work quickly, saving you labor costs. So, try to ID someone you’ll want to work with for your current trailer or it’s replacement.

In Southern California, I expect to pay $125/hour for labor. In rural Montana, $85. $250/hour seems excessive, as does 3K to rewire the trailer and convert it back to a 30 AMP service.

Sounds like you’ need a new power center. Bad news: they are costly. Good news: the new “models” include all sorts of bells & whistles that will protect your electrical system when hooking up to a power source. Find out what manufacturer Scamp uses & check on pricing. You’ll want someone who knows how to fabricate as you’ll be installing new equipment to a “vintage” trailer.

If you’re planning to boon dock, you’ll want a 100w ai lithium battery (2 batteries if you plan to install an inverter). You’ll need to buy a power center that will support lithium batteries.

Another positive is that you are in a position to purchase high quality, copper wire cables that are a thicker gage than originally installed by Scamp.

And yet another positive, you’ll be in a position to wire the trailer for multi media. Something like Escape offers, but potentially much better.

I believe Oldwave is referring to a [30 Amp] “Smart Plug” electric connector for Power Tower hookups.
http://https://smartplug.com/product/smartplug-combo-kit/
This would not cost much more than directly wiring a 30 AMP electric cable to your trailer’s power source, and would be a good investment. A Smart Plug system will let you seal off the electric bay door, rendering the trailer pest proof.

Setting the trailer up for off grid is also expensive. But you can do it in stages to control costs.

Please report back on your eventual decision.. and progress.

Best of luck
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Old 02-06-2023, 10:19 PM   #17
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Name: Kenny
Trailer: Bigfoot
Georgia
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Does the 12v side of things work? If battery is connected do you have lights, 12v outlet power? Depending on what you can get by on or comfortable with, a camping stove isn't too expensive. A jackery or equivalent might get you power for laptop/phone and a solar panel can keep it charged. If 12v works you could have a working water pump to get water moving. The water heater, did they change out the propane to strictly electric(like a house 120v 6/10 gal water heater) or both electric/propane? Heat without gas and A/C without 120v electric may be an issue, but maybe there are ways you can still get outside with adjustments.
Thanks
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Old 02-08-2023, 10:17 AM   #18
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Pictures help, it's probably relatively easy to go back to factory and have it work, and shouldn't be too expensive certainly not what you were quoted, for that price I could fly down from Canada, fix it, and fly back and make a profit

Joe
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Old 02-08-2023, 11:54 AM   #19
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I agree with Oldwave (John).
I wonder if the electrician you used is familiar with RVs and that the 50 amp for RVs is just 120 volts, and not 240 like the 50 amp plugs for dryers and such in a house?

I suspect all your 120 volt appliances have wiring that end at a central point. You would just need a proper converter, and a proper external cord wired to the converter.

The only reason you would need 50 amps is if you plan on running several high amp appliances at the same time, i.e., heater, hot water, and microwave. Bigger RVs need 50 amps because most have dual air condtioners that can use up all of the 30 amps just by themselves and need more power available just because of that.

When you mention that you are using an adapter to plug into your house outlet, are you plugging into a 120 volt outlet that only provides 15-20 amps, or a house 240 volt outlet that provides too many volts?
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Old 02-08-2023, 05:54 PM   #20
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Name: Tom
Trailer: Shopping
Maryland
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I think the key here is that you’d like to boondock and you have an RV that is 100% electric, even for heat and cooking. Those two are pretty much incompatible, unless you’re very comfortable doing a lot of electrical work (well beyond the electrical work your trailer currently needs to stop throwing breakers). So either get rid of the boondocking plans or replace the current RV.

Which leads us to your other question: who would want your RV in its current condition? The answer is: a surprising number of people. Scamps hold their value well, and even ones in terrible shape get bought, fixed up, and put to good use. For someone comfortable with electrical work, your trailer isn’t that big of a job, compared to water damage, frame damage, etc. And there are plenty of people who always stay in campgrounds with electrical hookups, so they would be fine with an all-electric camper.

Of course, the market for your camper is going to be smaller than the market for one that hasn’t had the propane gutted. And unfortunately, the market for a Scamp fifth wheel is much smaller than the market for the travel trailers. So it may take some patience to sell, and I wouldn’t count on getting what you paid (although you never know).

I hope you get this sorted out and are able to get a camper that suits you.
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