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07-15-2014, 06:58 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Name: Huck
Trailer: ParkLiner
Virginia
Posts: 852
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Help - Installing Solar Panel
I'm about ready to tackle the installation of 1 100 watt solar panel on my Parkliner. The job seems a bit overwhelming, mainly because it is so high up.
1) For those of you who have installed a rigid solar panel on the roof, how did you get up that high and have a stable platform to work from?
2) Did you install it by yourself? Mine seems a little heavy to be lugging up a ladder and positioning on the roof.
3) I installed 4 mounting brackets on my panel. I plan on using 3M tape for attachment. The mounting brackets don't provide much area for taping. I need ideas on how I can increase surface area so I can use more tape.
4) I want the option of plugging a portable solar panel in parallel to roof mounted panel. Is this what I need? Do I need to weatherproof when portable panel not plugged in?
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07-15-2014, 07:54 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Name: Huck
Trailer: ParkLiner
Virginia
Posts: 852
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I think I might have solved the problem. I decided to check prices on flexible solar panels. Renogy has a 100 watt bendable solar panel for $199.99 ($20 off). And it only weighs 3 lbs.
So I ordered one. If I am dry camping, I can take the 100 watt portable panel I already have and connect it in parallel with the bendable panel.
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07-15-2014, 08:17 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Huck
4) I want the option of plugging a portable solar panel in parallel to roof mounted panel. Is this what I need? Do I need to weatherproof when portable panel not plugged in?
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Huck is the question in regards to your controller? Some are weatherproof some are not - most being the later so they need to be protected from the elements. Either way I would make sure the controller is protected as I do some winter travel and I don't think the road grim etc would be all that great for it. I keep the line/plug in for my portable panel connected to the controller but when not in use the connection is stored inside a small waterproof box mounted on the side of my battery for ease of use. Ran the cable up into the small outside box from the bottom of the box and sealed the hole it went up through. Has worked fine for about 5 years now.
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07-15-2014, 08:33 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Name: Huck
Trailer: ParkLiner
Virginia
Posts: 852
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carol H
Huck is the question in regards to your controller? Some are weatherproof some are not - most being the later so they need to be protected from the elements. Either way I would make sure the controller is protected as I do some winter travel and I don't think the road grim etc would be all that great for it. I keep the line/plug in for my portable panel connected to the controller but when not in use the connection is stored inside a small waterproof box mounted on the side of my battery for ease of use. Ran the cable up into the small outside box from the bottom of the box and sealed the hole it went up through. Has worked fine for about 5 years now.
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Carol, I was referring to the y cable. From the y cable, 1 end goes to controller and will stayed connected. One end goes to roof mounted panel and will stay connected. The other end on the y cable will only be connected when the portable panel is in use.
So I'm asking if I have to protect that 1 open connector on the y cable. It will be on the roof.
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07-15-2014, 08:42 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Huck
Carol, I was referring to the y cable. From the y cable, 1 end goes to controller and will stayed connected. One end goes to roof mounted panel and will stay connected. The other end on the y cable will only be connected when the portable panel is in use.
So I'm asking if I have to protect that 1 open connector on the y cable. It will be on the roof.
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I get it. I would definitely find a way to protect it from the elements when the portable isn't plugged in. I would consider using two separate cables - one to the roof and the other going out to the tongue area so you don't need to be climbing up to the roof every time you want to attach the portable panel & you wouldn't have to worry about the open end of the portable connection sitting up on the roof exposed.
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07-15-2014, 01:29 PM
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#6
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Member
Name: David
Trailer: Hunter
New Mexico
Posts: 81
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Do people really 3M tape the solar mounts to their roof? I have a hard time believing this is reasonable.
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Fiberglass RV mobile app
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07-15-2014, 02:16 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seldomseensmith
Do people really 3M tape the solar mounts to their roof? I have a hard time believing this is reasonable.
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Fiberglass RV mobile app
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Yup lots of people here have used it some for a number of years will no ill effect. 3M makes on of their tapes high bond especially for solar panel use.
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07-15-2014, 02:50 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Name: deryk
Trailer: 2012 Parkliner 2010 V6 Nissan Frontier 4x4
New Jersey
Posts: 2,085
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I bolted mine to my roof. I used the 4 included clips and bought 4(used 2) on the front edge so it was less likely to lift off the roof. The panel is a touch awkward to carry up and down a ladder but hopefully will never have to remove it lol.
__________________
deryk
All that is gold does not glitter, Not all those who wander are lost; The old that is strong does not wither, Deep roots are not reached by the frost.... J.R.R. Tolkien
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07-15-2014, 04:38 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Name: David
Trailer: Escape Trailers
Massachusetts
Posts: 213
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Tape seems to work for us
Quote:
Originally Posted by Seldomseensmith
Do people really 3M tape the solar mounts to their roof? I have a hard time believing this is reasonable.
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Fiberglass RV mobile app
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We've had two 40W flexible panels 3M-taped to our Scamp 5er for a couple years and 25,000+ miles. Can't see any deterioration in the connection to this point. Believe this method offers a lot less drag than other methods.
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07-15-2014, 05:09 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Name: Huck
Trailer: ParkLiner
Virginia
Posts: 852
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deryk
I bolted mine to my roof. I used the 4 included clips and bought 4(used 2) on the front edge so it was less likely to lift off the roof. The panel is a touch awkward to carry up and down a ladder but hopefully will never have to remove it lol.
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Did you do it all from a ladder or did you climb on the roof?
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07-15-2014, 05:39 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Name: J Mac
Trailer: 17b Escape
British Columbia
Posts: 125
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You could also buy a 7 pin plug (like the one on your tow vehicle) and plug into the pigtail on your trailer if you have a controller. That's what I do.
If you have an extra battery and a portable solar panel with a controller you could drive to where the sun is and come back to the trailer and alligator clip your batteries together in series.
Sent from my iPhone using Fiberglass RV
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07-15-2014, 05:49 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Name: deryk
Trailer: 2012 Parkliner 2010 V6 Nissan Frontier 4x4
New Jersey
Posts: 2,085
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Huck, I have a 12 foot ladder and did it that way...was easier then drilling out the rivets to replace my fantastic fan with the MaxxAir fan. I did lean on the roof a bit but don't try climbing up there unless you want to add a skylight lol. I opened the escape hatch and mounted it as close to it as I could since I didn't wan't the wind riding up the front side of my ParkLiner while towing and hitting the panel and sheering it off. I was a bit nervous drilling the holes through my roof but I beveled the edges of the holes and used Butyl tape and tight fitting bolts and it has survived several heavy rainstorms. Where the wires pass through I mounted it so it went into my bathroom...god forbid it leaks one day it will leak into the fiberglass shower drain pan lol.
__________________
deryk
All that is gold does not glitter, Not all those who wander are lost; The old that is strong does not wither, Deep roots are not reached by the frost.... J.R.R. Tolkien
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07-16-2014, 05:03 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Name: Norm and Ginny
Trailer: Scamp 16
Florida
Posts: 7,517
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We taped our flexible panel to the roof 3 years ago, on the road all over the place for 20 months, all kinds of weather, no problems. Used a ladder, did not climb on Roof. Fed wires thru a marine fitting mounted near panels to controller.
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Fiberglass RV mobile app
__________________
Norm and Ginny
2014 Honda Odyssey
1991 Scamp 16
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07-16-2014, 07:48 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Name: Steve
Trailer: Scamp 19
Arizona
Posts: 178
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I installed 2-50w panels about 6 months ago, using 3M VHB tape. My mounts were about 3"X1" so that gave me about 12 sq. inches of holding area per panel. I also used 3M 5200 adhesive sealer around the side of each mount to seal water from sitting against the tape. I did have two mounts on each panel that didn't want to sit flat on the roof top, so used a couple of pop rivets (with lots of 3M 5200 under and over the rivets) to hold the mounts flat. I also used the 3M 5200 in puddles to hold the wires tight, instead of wire clips with rivets, on the roof top (remember I had to run wire from one panel to the next then into a water tight feed through). My panels are mounted one forward of the forward hatch and one just behind the hatch, on the raised part on my Scamp 5er
I have just returned for pulling the trailer over 8,000 mile in 3 months and was up checking the panel yesterday and everything looks tight and secure.
Bottom line is I'm very happy with having used the hard panels, charging speed, the fact that I have air space under the panels, and having them permanently mounted on the trailers roof top.
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07-16-2014, 10:28 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Name: Clif
Trailer: 08 Weiscraft Little Joe 14 Subaru Outback 2.5i CVT
Louisiana
Posts: 754
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Quote:
Originally Posted by honda03842
Fed wires thru a marine fitting mounted near panels to controller.
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Norm, what marine fitting did you use for your through hull connection?
Thanks.
Clif
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07-16-2014, 10:31 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Name: Norm and Ginny
Trailer: Scamp 16
Florida
Posts: 7,517
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Cliff, I will let you know tomorrow when we get home, computer-less today
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Fiberglass RV mobile app
__________________
Norm and Ginny
2014 Honda Odyssey
1991 Scamp 16
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07-16-2014, 10:47 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Name: Steve
Trailer: Scamp 19
Arizona
Posts: 178
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I used a plastic feed thru that is held in place with VHB tape and then I gooped it all around the edges with 3M 5200. Found it on Amazon.
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07-16-2014, 12:11 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
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Western Marine sells thru hull fittings for putting coax cables through that will work.
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07-16-2014, 02:48 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Name: deryk
Trailer: 2012 Parkliner 2010 V6 Nissan Frontier 4x4
New Jersey
Posts: 2,085
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Minimalist
Norm, what marine fitting did you use for your through hull connection?
Thanks.
Clif
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Check out mine http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...lar-64512.html
__________________
deryk
All that is gold does not glitter, Not all those who wander are lost; The old that is strong does not wither, Deep roots are not reached by the frost.... J.R.R. Tolkien
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