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Old 02-07-2011, 08:30 PM   #21
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I think it's built by the same folks that did my AC/DC distribution panel. I found a couple things:

#1 it came with no instructions (maybe you were luckier?) I think mine was the OEM model.
#2 Some brands of breakers fit more securely than others, so take it with you when you buy your breakers.
#3 It isn't clear from the instructions (well maybe it is if you got them) but you use one of the breaker positions for the AC mains INLET - 30A. The incoming 110V LINE (HOT or BLACK) from your incoming trailer power cord goes through one breaker. That lets it connect electrically to the metal plate (bus) there and be distributed out to your other two (or more) breakers, which might be, for example, maybe 20A to your Air Con, and 15A to your sockets, or maybe 2 branches of 15A for your sockets if you don't have Air Con, whatever. Ground and Neutral from your big power cord connect directly to screw terminals on the two big bus bars you have there. Ground (Green) at the bottom, Neutral (White) on the right.

#4 You can get half-size breakers if you need more positions, say to dedicate one to the black lead floating there, which I believe, is your convertor's power HOT wire. If you're wiring from scratch I would probably put the kitchen on one half breaker and the rest of the trailer 110VAC on the other. Definitely put the Airconditioner on its own breaker.

By designating one breaker for your AC in, you'll never** fry your power cord, and burn down the trailer and campsite by overdrawing on the 30A cord, even if the individual legs add up to more than 30A.

Regards,

Matt

**Did I say NEVER? I meant ALMOST never - I am an electrical engineer but that doesn't mean much in the scheme of not electrocuting one's self.
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Old 02-08-2011, 11:18 PM   #22
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Trailer: 1973 Boler (Boler Manufacturing
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Astroboy,

I think the bottom of the closet could work as well. Do remember there will be a large number of wire connections right behind the converter as you will need to tie in all the 12 volt circuits both to the converter but also to some sort of ground bus bar for a common ground. I found that there was plenty of room behind my converter under the front bench for everything while still not wasting too much storage space. You will need to experiment when you get the unit and see what works.

You do not require a seperate 120 volt breaker panel with the 4045 converter. It has room for 5 branch circuit breakers if you use double circuit breakers. I found the Siemens ones listed in the manual worked well. The incoming power from your port on the side of the trailer feeds into the 6 th breaker.
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Old 02-10-2011, 07:52 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by John Jesse View Post
Astroboy,

I found that there was plenty of room behind my converter under the front bench for everything while still not wasting too much storage space. You will need to experiment when you get the unit and see what works.
John,
Thank you for the reply. I think I misunderstand this unit. Why do you have this behind your 'converter', doesn't this unit replace the converter? I assumed you ran your 110 into this unit, and hooked it up to the battery as well, so the battery is able to be charged, and the return line is used to run 12 volt. From the unit, the 110 is also run to plugs and lights (I have no appliances of any kind to worry about).
Regards,
Kyle
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Old 02-10-2011, 08:05 AM   #24
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John,
Thank you for the reply. I think I misunderstand this unit. Why do you have this behind your 'converter', doesn't this unit replace the converter?
Kyle: (and John, please correct me if I'm wrong), I see where you're going, but I read it thinking John is using "converter" to mean this particular unit. So, he's saying you need plenty of room behind the unit itself (the converter/PD4045) for all the wires that run into it, not that there's another device in the space with the one we're talking about. Hope that helps!

-- Jess
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Old 02-10-2011, 08:42 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by Sam and Jess View Post
Kyle: (and John, please correct me if I'm wrong), I see where you're going, but I read it thinking John is using "converter" to mean this particular unit. So, he's saying you need plenty of room behind the unit itself (the converter/PD4045) for all the wires that run into it, not that there's another device in the space with the one we're talking about. Hope that helps!

-- Jess
Jess, Thanks for your re-interpretation. I am reading it again feeling silly. a few thoughts about my possible placement in the cupboard. How many issues are there running the cable to the tongue underneath the boler. I'm not sure how I feel about drilling a hole in the bottom of the trailer. Also, not sure how I feel about running the cable under the boler, even if it's encased in a heavy plastic case. If I chose to run it inside the boler, the choice would be to run all around the benches and under the kitchen back to the front of the trailer. Two issues with that. First, the cost of the heavy gauge cable. Also, would there be a significant loss of return to the 4045 unit from the battery having to travel that distance? One other question i have about this unit. Imagine I am in Lake superior Provincial park and want a water side lot that doesn't have power. Ok, who is really worried, right, because you have a battery running your limited 12 volt lighting and plug requirements. However, you want to stay a week and need to charge your battery. My question what is the best option. Should I bring a basic Canadian Tire battery charger to plug into the battery that I politely ask a neighbor who has a plug to let me charge my battery overnight? Or, should I invest in a small solar panel? What about plugging in to use this 4045 unit? could you run a standard extension cord instead of the 30 amp plug (that I'm replacing) and park the boler somewhere I can borrow a bit of power for the duration of a charge? Thoughts would be appreciated, I hope I have explained myself. Remember, I have no appliances, just some basic 12 volt lighting requirements. Another option may be to get two batteries if i"m going to boondock it often. I only have a 4 pin connector to the vehicle. I want to keep my electrical self contained on the trailer if that makes sense.
Thanks all. Having a snowy day here in Midland Ontario! I can barely see the boler anymore! Wow, crazy, I'll have to post a pic.
Kyle
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Old 02-10-2011, 09:55 AM   #26
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I had written a very long answer to your questions and this website timed me out. When I went to post it promped a login and forgot everything I had typed. Needless to say I am frustrated.

After looking back at all the theads I have participated in based on this topic I have decided to write a document discussing all the aspects of adding or upgrading the electrical system in a small trailer. I will add pictures and videos once I have my trailer back this spring. I would welcome the input of any other members interested, both from the side of expertise and advice as well as members who have questions and concepts they would like addressed.

One thing I will give you now though is a link to another thread about the 4045 that contains a picture of the unit installed showing all the stuff behind it that I was referreing to. http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...045-43955.html
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Old 02-10-2011, 07:29 PM   #27
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I had written a very long answer to your questions and this website timed me out. When I went to post it promped a login and forgot everything I had typed. Needless to say I am frustrated.
John, when you know you'll be posting a long answer, I suggest you open a text editor... like Notepad and type your answer there first. It also gives you plenty of time to put your thoughts together, cut and paste to move stuff around etc. When you're finally satisfied with what you wrote, THEN open a reply window... copy and paste from Notepad into the reply. This would surely save you a lot of grief and aggrevation
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Old 02-10-2011, 10:08 PM   #28
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Cool Yes, that happens to me a lot

Quote:
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I had written a very long answer to your questions and this website timed me out. When I went to post it prompted a login and forgot everything I had typed. Needless to say I am frustrated.
I have learned that for long answer replies to posts I must highlight the whole thing and copy and paste it into a word document before I "Submit Reply". This has saved more than one of my long-winded soliloquies from internet oblivion.
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Old 02-21-2011, 09:43 AM   #29
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Trailer: 1972 American Boler
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Intelli-Power 4000

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Originally Posted by Sam and Jess View Post
Thanks Bill for explaining your set-up -- such a help. I particularly like the list of circuits, your suggestion for an exterior outlet, and I'm glad to hear you run a 12V fridge as we splurged (big time) on a Norcold AC/DC fridge the other day.

And John -- we're excited about the Intelli Power (well, as excited as one can be about a converter) and so glad to hear from someone who uses it. I like your reasoning for putting it up front -- we're still waffling on the best location and that spot seems to make a lot of sense.

You should see our spreadsheet of items researched/ordered/received/installed. The "installed" column is looking a little pathetic, but at least the "ordered" one is filling up!

-- Jess
I am following this thread also. There was no battery set up on my 1972 Boler American when I bought it. I really want to add one because quite often my campsite does not have power. This looks like a very good unit to use. Please keep us posted on where you place it & how it works out for you.

Thanks!
Libby
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Old 02-21-2011, 11:28 AM   #30
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Sure Libby, we definitely plan to track our progress/bumbling errors once we start the electrical installation.

We separated the body from the frame yesterday and snipped the last of the wiring stragglers so there are officially no more clues as to how it was all wired before. That's less scary than it sounds though because it was a complete rat's nest of half-assedness (is that a word? works for me).

We'll probably take at least a couple of weeks to get the axle, install it, paint frame, and get body back on frame (that one will be interesting) before anything happens electric-wise. Plenty of time to keep researching, and draw up our diagram now that our appliances and power sources are all (mostly) chosen.

Oh, anyone else have examples of their wiring diagrams? I'm starting to think they should print those in the NY Times instead of crossword puzzles -- they're about as satisfying for me to solve : )

-- Jess
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Old 02-21-2011, 11:45 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by Sam and Jess View Post
Sure Libby, we definitely plan to track our progress/bumbling errors once we start the electrical installation.

We separated the body from the frame yesterday and snipped the last of the wiring stragglers so there are officially no more clues as to how it was all wired before. That's less scary than it sounds though because it was a complete rat's nest of half-assedness (is that a word? works for me).

We'll probably take at least a couple of weeks to get the axle, install it, paint frame, and get body back on frame (that one will be interesting) before anything happens electric-wise. Plenty of time to keep researching, and draw up our diagram now that our appliances and power sources are all (mostly) chosen.

Oh, anyone else have examples of their wiring diagrams? I'm starting to think they should print those in the NY Times instead of crossword puzzles -- they're about as satisfying for me to solve : )

-- Jess
Oh, I remember those days. I did all of that last year. It was a bear getting the shell off the frame. I also had to replace all 3 sections of the floor. I made cardboard templates of the floor before I cut them out, which did help me quite a bit. I also put a new axle on, but my new axle was a little wider than the old one & the offset was a little different so I ended up cutting my wheel openings a little larger. I managed to get it all put back together & useable for last year but I still have a lot of work to do on it. My major projects this year are to put the electric back in it & also to run all new propane lines. The previous owner installed soft copper propane lines through the interior of the camper. I am going to put the black iron on under the camper.

Good luck with your renovations! It takes time but it is well worth it in the end!

Libby
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Old 02-21-2011, 05:50 PM   #32
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Don't know if you know this, but the Scamp wiring diagram is in the document center.

Bill K

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam and Jess View Post
Sure Libby, we definitely plan to track our progress/bumbling errors once we start the electrical installation.

We separated the body from the frame yesterday and snipped the last of the wiring stragglers so there are officially no more clues as to how it was all wired before. That's less scary than it sounds though because it was a complete rat's nest of half-assedness (is that a word? works for me).

We'll probably take at least a couple of weeks to get the axle, install it, paint frame, and get body back on frame (that one will be interesting) before anything happens electric-wise. Plenty of time to keep researching, and draw up our diagram now that our appliances and power sources are all (mostly) chosen.

Oh, anyone else have examples of their wiring diagrams? I'm starting to think they should print those in the NY Times instead of crossword puzzles -- they're about as satisfying for me to solve : )

-- Jess
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Old 02-22-2011, 03:07 PM   #33
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I was browsing the internet today and found this:

The Intelli-Power 4000 Series AC/DC Distribution Panel and Intelli-Power Converter with Charge Wizard.

Has anyone used one of these? If so, how has it worked for you. It almost looks to good to be true. Thanks

-Sam
Installed one last year, works great and was easy to install. What I like about my 2000 SCAMP,is it like working on VW in the 60's and 70's.
Easy and fun to do.
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