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01-23-2011, 07:30 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Name: Sam
Trailer: 1977 Boler
Kansas
Posts: 104
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I am not an electrical engineer...
I need an all new 30A system in my Boler. I have done a fair amount of research on the internet and it seems to be hit and miss. There is a lot of information out there, but not specific to what I am looking for.
Does anyone out there have a list of parts needed or photographs of their electrical system rebuild. Mind you, I will be starting from ground zero. When we bought our Boler last year, most of the wiring (other than the trailer lights) had been removed.
I would like to wire several switched lights, a couple of outlets and have a 12V battery in there somewhere as well. If possible, I would like to wire in a stereo and a couple of speakers too. Thanks for your help. -Sam
P.S. I do not like working with electricity.
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01-23-2011, 07:44 PM
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#2
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Moderator
Trailer: Fiber Stream 1978 / Honda Odyssey LX 2003
Posts: 8,222
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Downloadable Wiring Diagram in the document center
You'll need a Converter, AC wire (Romex?), DC wire, plus the components you list.
__________________
Frederick - The Scaleman
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01-23-2011, 08:01 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Name: Sam
Trailer: 1977 Boler
Kansas
Posts: 104
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01-23-2011, 08:08 PM
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#4
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Moderator
Trailer: Fiber Stream 1978 / Honda Odyssey LX 2003
Posts: 8,222
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam and Jess
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I think that would be a good choice.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Intelli-Power PD9130
The built-in TCMS (Total Charge Management System) connector allows the RV manufacturer, dealer, or owner to easily add the Charge Wizard.
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I highly recommend adding the charge wizard.
__________________
Frederick - The Scaleman
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01-27-2011, 06:58 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Trailer: 13 ft Scamp Deluxe 2007 and 40' Allegro Bus
Posts: 219
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I "second" Fredericks' recommendations!!!!
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01-29-2011, 06:32 PM
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#6
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Member
Name: Kyle
Trailer: '73 Boler
Ontario
Posts: 40
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good day all,
Any thoughts on the difference between the 30 amp converter referenced above, and the 45 at: 9200 9245 Amp Progressive Dynamics Inteli-Power Converter (thankyou bolerlife.com)
i would think the 30 is cheaper than the 45, but I will have to do some research. couldn't i use the 45 amp version and save the 40 dollars? it also has the built in wizzard.
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01-29-2011, 11:37 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Trailer: U-Haul VT16
Posts: 987
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The 45 is great and potentially a better choice if you need some headroom (dual battery charging, DC-only fridge). check out the size, though. I think the difference in price you're seeing is related o the vendor. These folks seem to offer the complete line:
Progressive Dynamics Inteli-Power
I haven't bought from them, though.
Regards,
Matt
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01-30-2011, 01:49 AM
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#8
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Moderator
Trailer: Fiber Stream 1978 / Honda Odyssey LX 2003
Posts: 8,222
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Quote:
Originally Posted by astroboy
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The following is what I gleaned from each unit's descriptions:
Model: PD9130- Output: 13.6 VDC, 30 Amps
- Input: 105-130 VAC, 500 Watts
- INTELLIGENT COOLING FAN
- TCMS connector port to allow for the installation of the Charge Wizard.
Model: PD9245C- Output: 13.6 VDC, 45 Amps
- Input: 105-130 VAC, 725 Watts
- VARIABLE SPEED INTELLIGENT COOLING FAN
- Charge Wizard included with each converter!
__________________
Frederick - The Scaleman
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02-02-2011, 11:16 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1978 Trillium 13 ft
Posts: 180
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See my posts under forum heading "1st Anniversary Trillium mods review" (9/8/09)and "12 volt re-do/Jumbo LED lights install" (12/10/09)
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02-02-2011, 12:57 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Name: Sam
Trailer: 1977 Boler
Kansas
Posts: 104
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Thanks Marv!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Marv Watson
See my posts under forum heading "1st Anniversary Trillium mods review" (9/8/09)and "12 volt re-do/Jumbo LED lights install" (12/10/09)
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Your LED post is exactly the sort of info that we are poring over right now. It sure helps us grasp the bigger concepts when we see how other people set up their trailers.
Now on to the level of being able to apply that info (I suspect that's the tricky hurdle, right?). It's like we have a little foreign language vocab memorized, but have to figure out how to use it...
I'm sure we'll come up with some more questions in no time flat.
-- Jess
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02-04-2011, 08:58 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Trailer: U-Haul VT16
Posts: 987
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Those are great if you have space in a flat panel or cupboard or something that doesn't have a big physical load on it that would suffer for the cutout. You need a 12"wide by 9" area (cutout is smaller) that's got about 6" of depth to it.
I would have used it but I had a free Progressive Dynamics converter lying around. In retrospect it would have been better to go this route anyway.
Regards,
Matt
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02-04-2011, 09:40 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1972 13 ft Boler American
Posts: 262
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam and Jess
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Did you find a price anywhere on this, Sam? I'm interested too....
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02-05-2011, 02:23 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1972 13 ft Boler American
Posts: 262
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam and Jess
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NICE! I think we would have room too, and this seems to be such a simpler solution for us non-eletrical engineers.
If you're okay with it Sam, I think I'll just keep letting you do the research, and I'll tag along It looks like we're looking at some similiar updates as you! Nice blog/pics by the way!
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02-05-2011, 08:26 PM
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#16
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Member
Trailer: Trillium Jubilee
Posts: 53
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Eletrical overhaul
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam and Jess
I need an all new 30A system in my Boler. I have done a fair amount of research on the internet and it seems to be hit and miss. There is a lot of information out there, but not specific to what I am looking for.
Does anyone out there have a list of parts needed or photographs of their electrical system rebuild. Mind you, I will be starting from ground zero. When we bought our Boler last year, most of the wiring (other than the trailer lights) had been removed.
I would like to wire several switched lights, a couple of outlets and have a 12V battery in there somewhere as well. If possible, I would like to wire in a stereo and a couple of speakers too. Thanks for your help. -Sam
P.S. I do not like working with electricity.
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Sam
Sam:
I am not an electrical engineer either nor am I an electrician. I do have a background in boat building with the related demand for on-board wiring. I purchased a Trillium Jubilee on August of 2009 and with some major modifications ( including the electrical ) we took a trip to Alaska in July and August of 2010. Our new electrical systems worked very well.
There are a number of paths you can go down to re-wire your trailer. I opted to take out a very old non-functioning converter and install a 30 amp service. To feed the 12 volt frig and 12 volt lights, I installed a battery and a battery charger. The system works well and I now plan to put in a generator to feed the 30 amp service.
I purchased a service panel from Home Depot. It provides the entrance point for the power as well as the distribution point for the 5 circuits which I installed. This is probably overkill but it allows for greater flexibility when wiring. Presently the circuits are
- Battery charger and 110v outlet at the forward berth/sofa
- Outlets over the sink
- External plugs
- Refrigerator
- Microwave oven
- Air conditioner and 110v rear berth plugs
I plan to add another circuit for some 110 volt interior lights and perhaps another external plug. ( I find these very handy when camping ! )
The power enters the panel through a newly installed 30amp Marinco inlet device which can be purchased through any RV outlet. ( Don’t use a marine device – they don’t accept a regular RV cable ! ).
When underway, the alternator in your tug will charge the battery. If you are using a seven pin connector, the black line will be linked to your vehicle charging circuit and thence into your trailer mounted battery. When camped and hooked up to “shore power” the battery charger will top it up.
I used standard boxes for all 110 volt wiring. I saw no need to equip the system with GFI outlets. One could use these for the external outlets if desired.
The entire system, including the service panel, battery charger, 50 ft cable, inlet device, appliance boxes, wiring, breakers and miscellaneous parts cost about $300.00.
I have a number of pictures which I will pull up and send along to you when I get them together.
Best of luck with you Boler
Bill Reilly
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02-07-2011, 10:11 AM
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#17
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Member
Trailer: 1973 Boler (Boler Manufacturing
Posts: 38
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Good choice with the PD4045! I have a 1973 Boler that I bought with no 12 volt system at all. The 4045 converter is an excellent unit for small trailers because the converter and the distribution for AC and DC is all neatly contained in a very small unit.
I chose to install mine under the front couch on the left side, it fits just perfectly and its an easy place to access all the fuses and breakers as necissary. It is also a good location because it is very close to the tounge of the trailer where my deep cycle battery will be installed, thus reducing the ammount of expensive heavy gauge cable I have to run between the converter and the battery.
The other possible location is under the left rear bench at the table. There is much more room in this stroage compartment but I like to use those sports to store clothes, blankets, tarps etc and putting the converter there would take away my storage. It is also a long run to the battery from there for the 12 volt lines.
I would send pictures but the trailer is away in storage for the winter, but feel free to ask me any questions about this unit in your Boler. I have had great success with mine.
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02-07-2011, 11:31 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Name: Sam
Trailer: 1977 Boler
Kansas
Posts: 104
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Thanks Bill for explaining your set-up -- such a help. I particularly like the list of circuits, your suggestion for an exterior outlet, and I'm glad to hear you run a 12V fridge as we splurged (big time) on a Norcold AC/DC fridge the other day.
And John -- we're excited about the Intelli Power (well, as excited as one can be about a converter) and so glad to hear from someone who uses it. I like your reasoning for putting it up front -- we're still waffling on the best location and that spot seems to make a lot of sense.
You should see our spreadsheet of items researched/ordered/received/installed. The "installed" column is looking a little pathetic, but at least the "ordered" one is filling up!
-- Jess
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02-07-2011, 04:06 PM
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#19
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Member
Name: Kyle
Trailer: '73 Boler
Ontario
Posts: 40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Jesse
Good choice with the PD4045! I have a 1973 Boler that I bought with no 12 volt system at all. The 4045 converter is an excellent unit for small trailers because the converter and the distribution for AC and DC is all neatly contained in a very small unit.
I chose to install mine under the front couch on the left side, it fits just perfectly and its an easy place to access all the fuses and breakers as necissary. It is also a good location because it is very close to the tounge of the trailer where my deep cycle battery will be installed, thus reducing the ammount of expensive heavy gauge cable I have to run between the converter and the battery.
The other possible location is under the left rear bench at the table. There is much more room in this stroage compartment but I like to use those sports to store clothes, blankets, tarps etc and putting the converter there would take away my storage. It is also a long run to the battery from there for the 12 volt lines.
I would send pictures but the trailer is away in storage for the winter, but feel free to ask me any questions about this unit in your Boler. I have had great success with mine.
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John,
Thank you for the update on this. I am about to pull the trigger on this unit. Luckily it came about before I bought the other PD unit (9245 I think). I was considering using the closet. I have the same vintage boler and I was thinking about the bottom of the long closet. The wheel well comes down there and makes that very bottom useless for much of anything. Perhaps it could face the bench (right by the door), or out facing the kitchen. Problem one, would you have room down there. My boler like yours is hibernating off site. I can't get at it to test. Also, I would have to run 120 from the opposite side of the trailer where the external plug is. Not a big issue, but it would have to run all the way around to the closet. Also, have to run to the battery and that would mean underneath the trailer. How is the 120 connection hooked up to the 4045? I have to replace the external plug. I am considering replacing it with just a port, and wire the 120 into a box but not necessarily fastened to the external wall of the boler. I'm looking for the thread where I saw that done. Would you have any external plugs independent of the 4045? Something right off the panel the 120 goes into?
anyway, hope to hear of great success from you and Sam, we are all doing the same thing. I am bare bones and no 12 volt at all at this point. spring is just around the corner.
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02-07-2011, 04:48 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Name: Sam
Trailer: 1977 Boler
Kansas
Posts: 104
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Our Inteli-Power 45 amp converter arrived today. Very fast shipping. I only ordered it on Friday afternoon. Very pleased. Here are a few pictures.
Front cover
Right at 12 inches wide.
When mounted flush, it is right at six inches.
Back of the unit.
All wires are numbered.
Front of the unit with the cover off.
Front with the cover on, but the access panel open.
If there is anything you want to see a close up picture of, just let me know. It looks to be pretty well built. Better yet, it is starting to make sense in my brain.
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