I Installed a Solar Panel for my Lil Snoozy - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV
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Old 05-24-2016, 04:57 AM   #41
Raz
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Franswa is correct. People fuss about wire size. Most of the solar installations seen here are 5 amps or less (100 watts). Fourteen to 16 gauge wire is usually all that's needed. For a voltage drop to occur you need two resistors in series, typically called a voltage divider. That only occurs between the panel and the controller. The connection between the controller and the battery is a multi source circuit. There, the voltage drop is the difference between the two sources just like any charge line. Raz
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Old 05-24-2016, 08:35 AM   #42
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5 amp...

this is a good illustration (pic)...I thought I would be OPTIMISTIC and figure 6 amps on a PERFECT day for my rooftop panels....14 feet translates into #14 wire....just because I didn't want to do the work again if in the future I upped the capacity on my roof...I used #12 (guilty as charged, twice, for using too large a wire).....for my deployable panel (single 40W panel, 3 amps MAX, max length 20 feet) I used #14.....

12 and 14 is pretty small wire compared to what I often see around here...just sayin'...
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Old 05-24-2016, 09:05 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Franswa View Post
this is a good illustration (pic)...I thought I would be OPTIMISTIC and figure 6 amps on a PERFECT day for my rooftop panels....14 feet translates into #14 wire....just because I didn't want to do the work again if in the future I upped the capacity on my roof...I used #12 (guilty as charged, twice, for using too large a wire).....for my deployable panel (single 40W panel, 3 amps MAX, max length 20 feet) I used #14.....

12 and 14 is pretty small wire compared to what I often see around here...just sayin'...
I ordered a kit with the wire length necessary and with it they provided #10 of the panel to the controller and the controller to the battery. All fit exactly.
This way I can add two other panels without changing the wire.
I thought it was O.K. ..
I used 7 days last week on a site without service and everything worked well.
The price for this kit was a little bit lower, they had a special.
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Old 05-24-2016, 10:12 AM   #44
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more than ok....

that's a good deal from where I'm sitting.....I pieced my system together (started small and added, improved along the way) and spent quite a bit more than that for about the same capacity......all inclusive, name brand quality....all wire AND the fancy brackets ??? sheeesh !

I'd say you did REALLY well on that purchase.
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Old 11-09-2016, 07:15 PM   #45
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As author of this thread, I would like to report this solar system functions as I had hoped it would.

I can now depart from home with a fully charged batteries, travel all day running the 110VAC/12Volt Truck Refrigerator, stop for the day at a non-electrical campsite with a fully charge battery and the refrigerator temperature between 37-44 degrees. Run the Truck Fridge all night along with LED lighting and the water pump with a battery level between 12.3 Volts to 12.4 Volts (70-80% Charged) come morning. Then do it all over again if needed until we reach our destination.

Haven't tried staying in place more than a day just relying on the battery yet but feel it could be done with enough available sunlight.
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Old 04-02-2017, 05:07 AM   #46
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Flexible Solar Panels

I am considering a Lil Snoozy camper for it's flat unobstructed roof line so I can install flat flexible solar panels. Can anyone tell me what the actual full length of the LS roof is? That would run from the rear of the trailer roof all the way down to the leading front edge. Measured with a flexible tape.

The same for the actual width of the roof between what looks like a slight ridge along the sides of the roof.

Thanks,
Tom
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Old 04-02-2017, 06:48 AM   #47
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Dan, that's a well done solar design. Where did you get the battery box? What brand is it? Thanks!
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Old 04-18-2017, 05:14 AM   #48
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Battery Box

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Originally Posted by John in Michigan View Post
Dan, that's a well done solar design. Where did you get the battery box? What brand is it? Thanks!
Thanks,
It's a NOCO HM426 Dual 6-Volt Commercial Grade Battery Box
I got it on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VAUG5A...EOQGW3W1&psc=1
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Old 04-23-2017, 10:24 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tommy Boy View Post
I am considering a Lil Snoozy camper for it's flat unobstructed roof line so I can install flat flexible solar panels. Can anyone tell me what the actual full length of the LS roof is? That would run from the rear of the trailer roof all the way down to the leading front edge. Measured with a flexible tape.

The same for the actual width of the roof between what looks like a slight ridge along the sides of the roof.

Thanks,
Tom
I'd lean towards the solid panels with brackets that raise them slightly above the roof for permanent rooftop installation. The flexible ones mounted directly on the roof apparently have issues with heat buildup and subsequent damage after a few months to a year or two.
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Old 04-24-2017, 03:47 AM   #50
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Thank you for your response
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Old 01-27-2021, 11:18 PM   #51
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Brilliant ideas!
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Old 01-28-2021, 01:41 PM   #52
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Dan did great job on this. If you run a #8 fused wire from the tow battery to the camper batteries via a Anderson connector at the bumper it will negate a solo panel for this application. Mine will recharge the duel 6 volts in 30-40 minutes. I rarely use it as my batteries will run the lights and Truckfridge for at least three days. I would only consider a solar panel for extended boondocking.
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Old 03-07-2021, 11:09 AM   #53
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Itís wonderful that you all know how to do this stuff. Are there simple instructions? I have a 13ft. Scamp and have thought about putting a solar panel on a piece of plywood and putting that on the roof of my old Volvo XC-70 but then, whatís next? Is there a ďa + b + cď type of way to use the sun to run my lights, refrigerator if I am where I canít hook up? Iím able to follow simple instructions or am I going to have to go some place and hire someone?
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Old 03-07-2021, 04:30 PM   #54
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Mary Jo,

Often, people seem to make solar harder than it really needs to be.

We only use solar when we really need it and, since we use minimum overnight 12v amps (i.e. LED lights, charging phones/tablets, and running the top-mounted fan) a 35 watt panel is often enough for us.

If you look at the following thread, you will find pix of our solar setup:

https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...e-91674-2.html

Good luck with yours!

Ray
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Old 03-08-2021, 08:34 AM   #55
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solar

thank you for your reply, I printed your picture of the solar panel on your Scamp. Did you attach it directly to your battery terminals? and you mentioned the ammeter? would you send pictures of any additional components you attached to your system? So far I havenít blown anything or electrocuted myself altho I have had some ďexperiences.Ē. I like to learn and be independent and save $$, so any information is very welcome. thanks again, MJo
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Old 03-08-2021, 09:21 AM   #56
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The solar panel is connected to a small solar charge controller (Northern Tool/Harbor Freight) and the output of the solar charge controller is connected directly to the battery terminals. In the pix, the solar charge controller is/was wrapped in plastic to protect it from rain (I will eventually come up with a better rain-proof solution).

The purpose of a solar charge controller is to both prevent overcharging (boiling) your battery and/or to prevent discharging your battery at night back through the solar panel (if the solar panel does not include an anti-discharge diode).

I don't use an ammeter but I do use a small cigarette-lighter-style voltage meter
that is similar to what is mentioned in this thread:
https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...ad.php?t=95019

Ray
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