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Old 04-04-2010, 12:33 PM   #21
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Joy,
Is your connection which is inside an electrical box easily accessible for maintenance and/or repair?
I think that would make it acceptable. A splice run beneath the "rat fur" and not accessible would not be acceptable.

Yes, easily accessible. The box is taped down over the connection simply to keep stored items from bumping the wires connected with wire nuts. I'd rather that than have the connections come apart. The same with the connection for my light I added to the closet wall as the connection is inside the closet.

Sorry, but I see no hazard in doing this, nothing but safety in covering up the connections that could come apart by items that go in and out of the cabinets.

The factory connections (wire nuts) in Scamps are layed around the trailer exterior walls with the carpeting and insulation down the wall over them. The connection for the overhead fan was found under the insulation and carpeting near the edge of the fan.


I'm done with this guys.

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Old 06-20-2011, 12:54 PM   #22
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Name: Steve
Trailer: 2018, 21ft escapeó 2019 Ram 1500 Laramie
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The nec does not specify the number of outlets per 15 amp circuit in residential work . Circuits for residential general lighting ( 15 amp ) are based on 3 watts per square ft calculated load. You can place 10, or 11 or 12 current consuming openings on a 15 amp circuit. A single appliance should not exceed 50% of the branch circuit rating , so a 9.5 amp microwave should be on a 15 amp circuit by itself. The intended load is the main factor for determining number and rating of circuits.
The continuos load (3 hours or more) limits the load to 80% of circuit rating so you could not put a 20 amp continuos load on a 20 amp circuit
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Old 06-20-2011, 02:42 PM   #23
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Name: Norm and Ginny
Trailer: Scamp 16
Florida
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One of the neat things about most new electronics is that they draw significantly less power than the previous generation. For example, our LCD TV draws 38 Watts max.

We now have 9 AC outlets in our Scamp wired on four 15 amp breakers. Typically there are two boxes on a run from the breaker box, 4 plugs per circuit breaker. We do have one box with six plugs.

Our Scamp presently has only one significant power user, an electric heater. Everything else that uses a lot of power like a hair dryer or toaster are on for very short periods. Our coffee pot is only 600 watts and our electric water heater hot rodd is 400 watts.

If we get bold and add an Air Conditioner it will draw no more than 5 amps.

It amazes me how little power the trailer uses compared to our home. This month we used almost 700 kwhs; we use about 150 watts when we're camping in the coldest month when we have power. This is even more dramatic when you factor in the trailer uses electricity for heating and hot water. At home we use natural gas for heating and hot water.

Just musing,

Norm
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Old 06-20-2011, 02:58 PM   #24
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I would not cut an extension cord and splice it onto another appliance and then cover with carpet. This is how fires can start. Just like at home, running an extension under a rug, becomes a fire hazard. The prior owner of my Egg had little electrical experience so he spliced a plug onto a piece of 14 gauge wire and would plug it in when he wanted the outside outlet, to which he ran the 14/3 wire and attached to the outlet. Electrical codes should be followed in an rv just like at home. I would hate to think of selling an rv with improper wiring and then having the new owner experience an electrical fire.
One needs to run proper sized 14/3 for 15 amp and 12/3 for 20 amp circuits. Connections should be made inside approved electrical boxes and wires should be twisted together and wire caps and then tape. RV wiring is subject to a lot more vibration and you do not want that connection to come apart. Follow codes and you should not have any issues.
Another option here is to use 12v tv with built in dvd. Most new tv's are 12v with 120/12v adapters.
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