Need new electrical system for a 1977 13ft scamp - Fiberglass RV
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Old 01-23-2024, 10:23 PM   #1
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Name: robert
Trailer: scamp 77 13
CA
Posts: 14
Need new electrical system for a 1977 13ft scamp

In the middle of a restoration of a 1977 13ft scamp.
It was gutted when I bought it, only had working wiring for trailer lights. Running lights were even removed.
Also had power cord and breaker box for 110 shore power with one outlet near fridge.
Breaker box and cord have been removed, but still have.
Looking to set up a simple, easy to install system before interior parts are all put back in.
Not looking to install solar. just set up for occasional camping, some places with power, some without. No off grid or boondocking.
What I have so far in parts-
New rear lights installed
New running lights installed
New ceiling vent / 12 v fan installed
have original shore power cord in good condition
Have new 8 ft 7 way trailer plug w/ junction box for running light, tailights.
Have new deep cycle 12 v battery
Have working 3 way fridge, will plan on running on propane if decide to keep.
Planning on some interior 12v led lighting, maybe 12v pump for water, 5v usb plug ins, couple 120v outlets. small voltage meter panel.
So besides basic wires and connectors, need a converter, some sort of distribution panel, or combo, and what else?
Im sure there is things I am forgetting. Any suggestions on models or brands would be great.
Will probably set it all up under the driver side dinette bench.
Even pics of setup would help.
Thanks, Rob.
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Old 01-28-2024, 11:21 AM   #2
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Name: Dave
Trailer: boler 1978
British Columbia
Posts: 74
My 2 cents.



I run everything 12 volt in my Boler with no converter. When I'm on shore power I have a small squareD panel with a 15 amp breaker feeding a couple GFCI protected outlets. I have a good quality lithium battery charger (NOCO) that stays connected to AC and the battery so when there is 12 volt draw it kicks on and supplies the load rather than drawing the battery down. I carry a small 200 watt inverter in case I need anything 120 volt when I'm boondocking and that's it. A decent RV converters start around 300 bucks and go up from there. I didn't see why I needed one in the first place for such a small trailer.


I have 120ah of Lithium batteries, a victron MPPT charge controller and a 100 watt solar panel. (thinking I could use 200 watts or maybe a bit more battery this year.) This keeps my DC fridge and everything else running for about a week without shore power or tow charging
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Old 01-31-2024, 11:52 AM   #3
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Name: Pete
Trailer: Scamp 13
ID
Posts: 26
Well done.
The tried and true "KISS" axiom.
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Old 01-31-2024, 01:19 PM   #4
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Name: Steve
Trailer: 1979 Boler1700
Maple Ridge, B.C.
Posts: 384
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I rewired our 17' boler. I kept the original breaker box but replaced the converter. Shore power to the breaker box. 110 volt plug for the converter, fridge,kitchen and outside. GFCI plug for the kitchen and outside. Converter ran the entire trailer on 12v and charged the battery (4 stage charging). While on shore power, the fridge ran on 110v and gas otherwise.
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Old 01-31-2024, 01:23 PM   #5
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Name: Ray
Trailer: scamp
Indiana
Posts: 851
Well might look at what the newer ones are doing after all they have learned a lot since then. Just remember that if you get too "simple" it can turn out complicated. Not sure the idea of not using a converter is a good one. Converters are actually kind of simple. If you can find a way to build this into what you are doing now this might be a good choice.


https://www.amazon.com/WFCO-WF8955PE...0QAvD_BwE&th=1


I had to replace my converter on my 1993 16 foot scamp and replaced it with a 60 amp unit with a built in float charger but they don't seem to make that one any more. I kept the fuse system hidden in one of the storage bays to avoid the "complexity" of replacing it when replacing the converter. But it is a bitch to get to and that has always been something I regretted. Make it so that your fuses and breakers are easy to get to.


I am getting ready to put AC on the outside of the camper. Now I am a ham and have done some stuff for that which probably would not apply to you. One of the places that I am going to put an outlet is on the side under the canopy so that I can power may radio equipment outside off of "shore power" without running another cord to the power source box. Probably not something you need, but think about it.


I am also going to put a GFI outlet at the front, but part of the reason for that is that I am also going to put an outlet out on the tongue. That needs to be GFI protected and what I am going do is slave that outlet off of the inside one at the front so the GFI electronics are inside. Depending on exactly what you are planning to do for camping that might be worth considering. The reason for this is that if you camp in the winter you will need to put a slight amount of heat on your propane tanks to run the furnance. I have a 50 watt "blanket" designed for this and it does the job well, but then you have to get power to there and that can be interesting and annoying in winter weather. Plug and play will be easier. But I do camp in winter a noticable amount.


Use good STRANDED wire. And it solder my connections and insulate them with heat shrink tubing. This crimp connectors and black tape are much simpler to install, but they do fail regularly. And then fixing them is also a b******.



I love my led lighting.
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Old 01-31-2024, 05:51 PM   #6
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Name: robert
Trailer: scamp 77 13
CA
Posts: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by ststefan View Post
I rewired our 17' boler. I kept the original breaker box but replaced the converter. Shore power to the breaker box. 110 volt plug for the converter, fridge,kitchen and outside. GFCI plug for the kitchen and outside. Converter ran the entire trailer on 12v and charged the battery (4 stage charging). While on shore power, the fridge ran on 110v and gas otherwise.
This is the type setup I was thinking of. Been doing research on converters and other parts. I have a sketch drawn up from one of the scamp wiring diagrams as a guide, to see what parts and pieces I have and what I will need.
Work in progress.
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Old 01-31-2024, 06:33 PM   #7
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Name: Ray
Trailer: scamp
Indiana
Posts: 851
Quote:
Originally Posted by videorob22 View Post
This is the type setup I was thinking of. Been doing research on converters and other parts. I have a sketch drawn up from one of the scamp wiring diagrams as a guide, to see what parts and pieces I have and what I will need.
Work in progress.



Keep coming here and asking questions and you will get there.


PS Pictures always help
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Old 05-06-2024, 02:11 PM   #8
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Name: Susan
Trailer: Scamp
Pennsylvania
Posts: 1
I would be very interested in the details of what you ended up doing, including pictures or advice. We just got a 1977 Scamp - that is in overall good condition, but I think we need to re-do the electric, and trying to figure out what we need to do. It seems like it would be about $1K to have someone re-do the whole thing. This doesn't have a bathroom or a fridge, so I am trying to figure out what we really need. We are most likely going to be in campgrounds with electricity (very little boondocking).
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Old 05-06-2024, 04:04 PM   #9
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Name: John
Trailer: Bigfoot 25 RQ
Ohio
Posts: 332
Progressive dynamics makes a quality ac/dc converter panel.

https://www.progressivedyn.com/pd4000-series/

They are made in Michigan with imported parts. Their tech support was more than adequate.
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Old 05-06-2024, 10:18 PM   #10
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Name: Steve
Trailer: 1979 Boler1700
Maple Ridge, B.C.
Posts: 384
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Quote:
Originally Posted by videorob22 View Post
This is the type setup I was thinking of. Been doing research on converters and other parts. I have a sketch drawn up from one of the scamp wiring diagrams as a guide, to see what parts and pieces I have and what I will need.
Work in progress.
Where are you located? I'm in Maple Ridge, B.C. Canada. If you're close, I could give you a hand sorting things out.
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