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Old 06-20-2024, 09:05 PM   #1
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Name: James
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Colorado
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No power with outlets

Hi, my dad has a 2017(ish) Casita and there is no power going to the GFCI or other outlets. We have checked breakers, tried multimeters, but there is no power to the gfci when we take the outlet off and test the wires. According to my dad this gfci breaker is the first breaker that then goes off to the other breakers. How do we trace the wires back to the point where we can fix the power? Or if you have other suggestions happy to hear them.

Thanks!
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Old 06-20-2024, 10:13 PM   #2
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Follow the voltage

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Originally Posted by JDcamper2024 View Post
Hi, my dad has a 2017(ish) Casita and there is no power going to the GFCI or other outlets. We have checked breakers, tried multimeters, but there is no power to the gfci when we take the outlet off and test the wires. According to my dad this gfci breaker is the first breaker that then goes off to the other breakers. How do we trace the wires back to the point where we can fix the power? Or if you have other suggestions happy to hear them. Thanks!
Start at the hook up pedestal and follow the voltage. Is there voltage on both sides of the circuit breaker?
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Old 06-21-2024, 04:50 AM   #3
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My 2008 Casita 17' SD only has one GFCI outlet on the side of the stove cabinet inside, and it also powers the outside curb side convenience outlet next to the entry door. Those outlets have a long history of moisture intrusion and corroded wiring terminals that prevent the GFCI from resetting. If you have the outside outlet, that would be the first thing I would check anyway.
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Old 06-21-2024, 06:03 AM   #4
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Start at the hook up pedestal and follow the voltage. Is there voltage on both sides of the circuit breaker?
do I do this by using a multimeter and checking the voltage along the way to the breaker box?
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Old 06-21-2024, 06:04 AM   #5
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My 2008 Casita 17' SD only has one GFCI outlet on the side of the stove cabinet inside, and it also powers the outside curb side convenience outlet next to the entry door. Those outlets have a long history of moisture intrusion and corroded wiring terminals that prevent the GFCI from resetting. If you have the outside outlet, that would be the first thing I would check anyway.
OK thank you for that information that is exactly the set up we have. So in this scenario, if there does happen, any moisture, do we just replace the outlets? With the moisture prevent there from being power coming to either outlet even testing the wires inside?
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Old 06-21-2024, 10:40 AM   #6
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OK thank you for that information that is exactly the set up we have. So in this scenario, if there does happen, any moisture, do we just replace the outlets? With the moisture prevent there from being power coming to either outlet even testing the wires inside?
If there is any corrosion on the wire ends or the outlet terminal screws, it would create an electrical imbalance that would cause the GFCI to trip or not reset.
Yes, I would recommend replacing the outlet completely if there is any corrosion on the wire ends or outlet terminal screws. Don't try to clean the outlet, it will just be a temporary fix to a permanent problem. A new outlet isn't that expensive. I would also suggest buying a "higher end" outlet as opposed to the bargain basement cheapo ones. Also, make sure that any corrosion on the wire ends is burnished clean. While you're at it, you may want to replace the weather-proof gasket under the outlet cover since you will be pulling it out to inspect it anyway. They do deteriorate over several years. They're cheap enough. Pull the outlet out for a good visual inspection. You won't see anything unless you physically pull it out. It goes without saying, make sure your power cord is disconnected while pulling it out of the receptacle box.
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Old 06-21-2024, 10:46 AM   #7
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OK thank you for that information that is exactly the set up we have. So in this scenario, if there does happen, any moisture, do we just replace the outlets? With the moisture prevent there from being power coming to either outlet even testing the wires inside?
If there are corroded contacts, either the wire ends, outlet terminal screws, or both, it would create a voltage "imbalance" that would probably prevent the GFCI from resetting until the fault is remediated.

Yes, I would recommend replacing the outlet completely if there is any corrosion on the wire ends or outlet terminal screws. Don't try to clean the outlet, it will just be a temporary fix to a permanent problem. A new outlet isn't that expensive. I would also suggest buying a "higher end" outlet as opposed to the bargain basement cheapo ones. Also, make sure that any corrosion on the wire ends is burnished clean. While you're at it, you may want to replace the weather-proof gasket under the outlet cover since you will be pulling it out to inspect it anyway. They do deteriorate over several years. They're cheap enough. Pull the outlet out for a good visual inspection. You won't see anything unless you physically pull it out. It goes without saying, make sure your power cord is disconnected while pulling it out of the receptacle box.
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Old 06-22-2024, 08:11 AM   #8
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If there are corroded contacts, either the wire ends, outlet terminal screws, or both, it would create a voltage "imbalance" that would probably prevent the GFCI from resetting until the fault is remediated.

Yes, I would recommend replacing the outlet completely if there is any corrosion on the wire ends or outlet terminal screws. Don't try to clean the outlet, it will just be a temporary fix to a permanent problem. A new outlet isn't that expensive. I would also suggest buying a "higher end" outlet as opposed to the bargain basement cheapo ones. Also, make sure that any corrosion on the wire ends is burnished clean. While you're at it, you may want to replace the weather-proof gasket under the outlet cover since you will be pulling it out to inspect it anyway. They do deteriorate over several years. They're cheap enough. Pull the outlet out for a good visual inspection. You won't see anything unless you physically pull it out. It goes without saying, make sure your power cord is disconnected while pulling it out of the receptacle box.
The strange thing is there is no corrosion whatsoever and there is no power when we test the wires behind the outlet. So we take the outlet completely out but even the hot and neutral coming from the plug in has no power… somebody else said the test power before and after the circuit breaker so I think we have to try that to see if power is coming in at all but the weird thing is that the AC and other electrical appliances work it’s just the outlets that have no power
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Old 06-22-2024, 08:35 AM   #9
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The strange thing is there is no corrosion whatsoever and there is no power when we test the wires behind the outlet. So we take the outlet completely out but even the hot and neutral coming from the plug in has no power… somebody else said the test power before and after the circuit breaker so I think we have to try that to see if power is coming in at all but the weird thing is that the AC and other electrical appliances work it’s just the outlets that have no power
Do you have power to the GFCI outlet? If no, then check for a tripped breaker in the converter panel. If your other AC loads have power, then the problem wouldn't be in the power pedestal. You could possibly have a loose or broken wire that isn't hooked up somewhere in the outlet circuit if it isn't a tripped breaker.

Also, if a breaker has tripped, which should be readily visible by the red flag on the breaker showing. Be sure to press it firmly all the way off until it clicks. Then attempt to turn it on and see if it powers up.
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Old 06-26-2024, 11:21 AM   #10
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Sold my Casita a while back so can't look, as I recall, outlets work on DC, so you'd be looking for bad fuses not breakers. Now,converter supplies DC power even with no battery when plugged in, so look for tripped converter breaker as well. Does your water pump work? Lights? Fridge lights,CO detector, all work on DC.
If there is DC power to lights and pump etc
Then it's either a bad fuse to outlets, or loose wiring behind fuse panel,assuming that what you say about no live wires in outlet box is correct. Good luck
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Old 06-26-2024, 11:47 AM   #11
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Step 1: verify your power source is working. Are you plugged into an outlet? Use a hair dryer or similar to make sure it works.

Step 2: verify your extension cord is good.

Step 3: verify breaker inside trailer is properly set.
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Old 06-26-2024, 12:43 PM   #12
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Do you have power to the GFCI outlet? If no, then check for a tripped breaker in the converter panel. If your other AC loads have power, then the problem wouldn't be in the power pedestal. You could possibly have a loose or broken wire that isn't hooked up somewhere in the outlet circuit if it isn't a tripped breaker.

Also, if a breaker has tripped, which should be readily visible by the red flag on the breaker showing. Be sure to press it firmly all the way off until it clicks. Then attempt to turn it on and see if it powers up.

Mostly the red flag shows up. Once in a while one will trip or partually trip and not look tripped. When I have an issue like this I always turn every breaker off and back on just to make sure.
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Old 06-26-2024, 01:28 PM   #13
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Sold my Casita a while back so can't look, as I recall, outlets work on DC, so you'd be looking for bad fuses not breakers. Now, converter supplies DC power even with no battery when plugged in, so look for tripped converter breaker as well. Does your water pump work? Lights? Fridge lights,CO detector, all work on DC.
If there is DC power to lights and pump etc
Then it's either a bad fuse to outlets, or loose wiring behind fuse panel,assuming that what you say about no live wires in outlet box is correct. Good luck
I disagree with your statement above. The outlets are only powered by 120 VAC, as in from an external shore power cord or a generator. The only 12 VDC outlet in the trailer is the cigarette lighter plug in located in the bottom of the rear overhead cabinet. The Converter only makes 12 VDC power from a 120 VAC power supply. The Converter cannot make 120 VAC power. That must be supplied from another outside source.
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Old 06-26-2024, 01:38 PM   #14
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I disagree with your statement above. The outlets are only powered by 120 VAC, as in from an external shore power cord or a generator. The only 12 VDC outlet in the trailer is the cigarette lighter plug in located in the bottom of the rear overhead cabinet. The Converter only makes 12 VDC power from a 120 VAC power supply. The Converter cannot make 120 VAC power. That must be supplied from another outside source.

Well he might be kind of right, but not if it is factory standard. I have seen a scamp where someone got really into solar and put in a inverter powered by the big battery pack that they ran from a solar system all over the trailer. Really kind of ugly. But they had taken the standard factory outlets and wired them into the inverter.


Does not impress me as a good idea. BUT if someone could do that to a scamp I bet they could do it to any other trailer. And probably have.


But you are right as factory installed the outlets would not be connected to the 12 volts. And if they were retro fitted this way I would expect the guy to be mentioning the hardware necessary to make this work.
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Old 06-27-2024, 07:37 AM   #15
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Well he might be kind of right, but not if it is factory standard. I have seen a scamp where someone got really into solar and put in a inverter powered by the big battery pack that they ran from a solar system all over the trailer. Really kind of ugly. But they had taken the standard factory outlets and wired them into the inverter.

Does not impress me as a good idea. BUT if someone could do that to a scamp I bet they could do it to any other trailer. And probably have.

But you are right as factory installed the outlets would not be connected to the 12 volts. And if they were retro fitted this way I would expect the guy to be mentioning the hardware necessary to make this work.

Just as an aside, why would anyone even want 12 VDC outlets that you can't run anything on? It's the reason we have "Shore Power" cords for 120 VAC power to the outlets, and a select few other loads, like the A/C, fridge, heat cubes, blow dryers, coffee pots, etc. We all plug our 120 VAC appliances into those outlets, which is why they are there to begin with. That just doesn't really make any sense to have convenience outlets that don't supply the power you need for whatever items you plug into them.

Well, I'm also under the assumption that it is rigged as it was when it left the factory, (i.e. with a Converter.) And I know that you also know the difference between a Converter and an Inverter. BTW, No mention of an Inverter in his post.
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Old 06-27-2024, 11:06 AM   #16
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Just as an aside, why would anyone even want 12 VDC outlets that you can't run anything on? It's the reason we have "Shore Power" cords for 120 VAC power to the outlets, and a select few other loads, like the A/C, fridge, heat cubes, blow dryers, coffee pots, etc. We all plug our 120 VAC appliances into those outlets, which is why they are there to begin with. That just doesn't really make any sense to have convenience outlets that don't supply the power you need for whatever items you plug into them.

Well, I'm also under the assumption that it is rigged as it was when it left the factory, (i.e. with a Converter.) And I know that you also know the difference between a Converter and an Inverter. BTW, No mention of an Inverter in his post.
Yeah I mention no mention of an inverter or big battery bank.

The scamp I saw and the guy was so proud of had the convince outlets providing 120vac. But via inverter not a converter. But the guy showing it off did refer to the inverter as a converter. It was a trace engineering unit. I believe from what I saw it would have taken in shore power in addition to using the batteries and then provided 12 volt operations and charge. But that was not hooked up because "with solar it was not needed".

But absolutely not as from factory.
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Old 06-27-2024, 04:51 PM   #17
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Yeah I mention no mention of an inverter or big battery bank.

But absolutely not as from factory.
If he's powering his 120 VAC outlets from an inverter, he must have a battery bank that would almost outweigh the trailer itself. Just sayin'.
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Old 06-27-2024, 05:22 PM   #18
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If he's powering his 120 VAC outlets from an inverter, he must have a battery bank that would almost outweigh the trailer itself. Just sayin'.
Well I forget what kind of batteries the Scamp guy had. But apparently they weren't let acid and they weren't very heavy but they were big. He had a row of them on the bumper of the camper. If I remember they were something weird I never heard of. I looked them up on the internet at the time and like a storage battery of that type that had like the capacity of your normal car battery size storage battery was like $700. A piece.for like 100ah. :-(. But the ones that were like 7 amp hours like are the size of an alarm battery or regularly apparently used by backpackers. If I remember rightly he had six on the bumper.

I was kind of impressed with the technology the guy was using, but he sure made his camper look ugly.
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Old 06-27-2024, 05:35 PM   #19
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Just as an aside, why would anyone even want 12 VDC outlets that you can't run anything on? ...
I (sort of) agree on the 12v outlets. But I did add USB outlets (5v) to a spare 12v fuse in my power panel to charge phones and hearing aids. I put the outlets on either side of the divider panel in my Casita Spirit Deluxe along with convenience shelves.
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Old 06-27-2024, 05:53 PM   #20
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I (sort of) agree on the 12v outlets. But I did add USB outlets (5v) to a spare 12v fuse in my power panel to charge phones and hearing aids. I put the outlets on either side of the divider panel in my Casita Spirit Deluxe along with convenience shelves.
Well, almost everyone these days has a USB charger for something or other, but generally they just plug them into an adapter in a regular outlet. That said, I did install a dedicated 12 VDC double USB outlet in the overhead cabinet above the side dinette, wired into the already existing 12 VDC overhead light wiring. Oh, and the divider panel also went bye-bye a while back as well. Didn't feel the need to keep it. It really opened up the interior. And no, it's not a structural component. Proof enough in that Casita doesn't even install it on a few of their models.
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